How to Replace iPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel – DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
The display bezel guide was originally designed for the iPad 3 Wi-Fi. But guess what? The steps for taking off that display bezel are just as easy-peasy for the iPad 4, whether it’s the 4G or Wi-Fi version. Let’s get to it!
If your display bezel is looking a bit worse for wear, don’t fret! This guide is here to help you swap it out like a pro. Originally crafted for the iPad 3 Wi-Fi, the steps for removing the display bezel are just as easy-peasy for the iPad 4, whether you’ve got the 4G or Wi-Fi version. Let’s get that bezel back in shape! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before getting started. That way, any stubborn mess on the bottom won’t stick to your iOpener and make things messy.
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener while you’re getting your repair on. If it gets too hot, it might just pop! So, let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F), okay?
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it, buddy!
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, hang tight! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds!
– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to lose its heat.
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care! Grab an oven mitt if you need a little extra protection for your hands.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and soaking up all that heat.
– Using tongs (because we want to keep those fingers safe), fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s all set.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is ready to rock! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let your iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your screen is sporting some cracks, let’s keep those pesky shards in check and protect yourself while you work—grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until you’ve got the entire surface covered like a protective shield.
– Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass starts cracking, it might keep on breaking, so you might need a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re tackling this repair, you might encounter some sharp glass bits. So, why not gear up with some safety glasses? They’ll keep those pesky shards at bay and make your repair experience a whole lot safer!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s snug and cozy for optimal contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener.
– Give it a little time to work its magic—let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that snug tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and stay cool; gently wiggle the plastic tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that tiny weakness!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside the tool. You’re doing great—keep it up!
Step 10
– Take out that plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick!
Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so you might need to channel your inner superhero to get it off. Just take your time and be careful!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s totally safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads up—it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, though!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling back the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go along.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to reposition the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little dance move depends on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat and then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re on the right track!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned in a way that requires a bit of finesse, make sure to handle it carefully—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some lasting damage to that precious Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
– Alright, let’s take it easy for the next few steps. Safety first, right?
– You’ll need to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be gentle and watch out for those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Stick to the following steps and you’ll do great!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly heads-up: don’t slide that pick beyond the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give your Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive, like a pro!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out close to the corner, so be gentle—if the adhesive gets too wild, it could get severed. You’ve got this!
Just a friendly tip: Don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a little tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating sessions to a minute max, and give it a cool two-minute break before you heat it up again. Your device will thank you!
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, and then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!
– Pop the opening pick in place under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit clingy, give the iOpener another heat-up and set it on the left edge while you tackle the rest.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you get to around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick. You got this!
– Gently slide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, and watch the adhesive release like magic! It’s pretty thin along this side thanks to the digitizer, so keep it cool and don’t push the pick in too deep (just a smidge, about 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. Easy peasy!
Step 26
– With one of those handy opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little tug with your fingers. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a little twist away from the device. It’s like a gentle dance move, but for your tech!
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to pamper that LCD! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you reinstall the glass. Your screen deserves a fresh start!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside to get to the bottom left screw and keep the repair rolling!
– Carefully take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD tight against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a delicate little thing and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it safe and sound!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, give that LCD a little rotation along its left edge and lay it down softly on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Gently flip up that retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re flipping a pancake!
– Now, using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen refuses to light up after connecting the ZIF connector, just hold down the power button and the home button together for at least ten seconds until you see that beautiful Apple logo pop up. You’ve got this!
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Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Let’s get that connection ready for action!
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently guide the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 37
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break that adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’re doing great!
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Step 41
– With a gentle tug, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad, giving it the space it deserves.
Step 42
– Gently wedge the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool between the plastic and aluminum frames at one of the corners. You’ve got this!
– Carefully glide that plastic opening tool along the edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive like a pro. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 43
– Keep that plastic opening tool gliding smoothly along the entire left edge of the iPad, just like a pro!
Step 44
– As you approach the bottom left corner, give that plastic opening tool a little twist around the edge and keep gliding it along the bottom. You’re doing great!
Step 45
– Keep gliding that trusty plastic opening tool along the right edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!
Step 46
– Keep an eye on that front-facing camera while you gently slide the plastic opening tool along the top edge of the iPad. We want to keep everything safe and sound!
