How to Replace iPad Wi-Fi Microphone Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 43 Steps
Hey there! Before you dive into this repair adventure, let’s make sure you’re all set. Grab your tools, clear your workspace, and maybe throw on some tunes to keep the vibes high. If you hit a snag or feel like this is a bit too much, remember, you can always schedule a repair. We’re here to help you out!
Get ready to bring your microphone back to life! Follow this guide to swap out your microphone with ease and get back to chatting and recording in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little scrub before you dive in. Trust us, you don’t want any leftover gunk sticking to your iOpener!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don’t want it getting too toasty—overheating could make it pop! Aim to keep it under 100ËšC (212ËšF).
If your iOpener looks a little puffy, give it a break and don’t touch it.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, just hang tight while it cools down a bit more before giving it another heat session. A nicely warmed iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave.
– As you work through the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
Tools Used
Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care. If you feel the heat, grab an oven mitt to keep your cool!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the warm center.
Tools Used
Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to make sure your iOpener can take a nice dip.
– Heat that water up until it’s boiling, then go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully place your iOpener in the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged, giving it a cozy bath!
– Using some tongs, fish out the warm iOpener from the water—watch out, it’s hot!
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry; we want it to be nice and dry for action!
– And voilĂ ! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – we don’t want any accidental damage happening!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep it from shattering further and avoid any mishaps during your repair by sticking some tape on it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until you’ve got it all covered up.
– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as we go along. Keep in mind, once the glass is broken, it might just keep cracking as you work. You may find it helpful to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re diving into this repair, you might encounter some pesky broken glass. So, put on those safety glasses and keep those peepers protected from any flying shards. You’ve got this!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for optimal contact. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give the bag a little time to do its thing—let it chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and try to pop open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting the wedged tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle as you go. You’ve got this!
– Look closely, and you’ll find a little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s like a secret passage just waiting for you to take advantage of it!
– Now, let’s get that tool ready! Line it up with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in a bit—enough to make that crack a little wider. You’re doing great!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that tiny gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re on your way!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, then slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch. You’re doing great!
Step 12
That adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If you catch a glimpse of that opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While having the pick inserted this far won’t cause any damage, it might leave a little adhesive mess on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive as you go along.
Tools Used
Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of your iPad. This little move depends on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been working your magic.
– If the opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep freeing up that sticky stuff.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Before you start prying the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will help keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back down.
– Give your iOpener a little heat boost, then place it at the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the layout of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to handle it with care; otherwise, you might accidentally cause some irreversible damage. So, let’s keep our cool and proceed with caution!
– Alright, folks! Time to tread carefully in the next few steps.
– We need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while making sure not to damage those delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. So, keep your eyes on the prize and follow the upcoming steps with care!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick beyond the bottom right corner. Doing so might just poke the Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
Take your time as you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna hanging out near the corner—it’s a bit shy and can easily get cut off if the adhesive gets a little too wild.
Just a friendly tip: don’t pull the pick all the way out from under the front glass! Instead, ease it out a smidge so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays snugly tucked under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad to free up the adhesive that’s holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), gently slide the opening pick back in until it’s fully inserted.
– Now, give that pick a little nudge to the right to free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener toasty for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another go.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button, then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– And hey, don’t forget to keep that opening pick snugly wedged under the front glass near the home button. It’s your little helper!
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled off a bit too much, simply place the iOpener back along the top edge and keep on going. If that iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, just give it another heat-up and you’re good to go!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– Keep in mind, the adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of elbow grease. Take it slow and steady—let’s avoid any slips that could end up hurting you or your iPad.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still pretty sticky, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, take a break at around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, easing the adhesive loose as you go. It’s a bit thinner here because of the digitizer stretching along the entire left side. Just be sure to keep the pick at a shallow depth—no more than half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be extra careful with that digitizer cable! It’s only about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad, so take your time and avoid cutting it. You’ve got this!
– With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Keep it cool and steady!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pop up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, use your fingers to hold it steady. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging around, and grab an opening pick to slice through any sticky stuff that might be keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving it a little hug and a nudge!
– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to give the LCD a little love! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints before reattaching the glass. Your screen will thank you!
Step 28
– Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, give the LCD a little twist along its left edge and lay it down gracefully on top of the front panel. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 30
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s hugging the LCD ribbon cable connector. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come off!’
Tools Used
Step 31
– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.
– With a steady hand, either use your fingers or some tweezers to slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If you need to, gently peel away the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable down to the logic board. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen up the adhesive holding it down.
– Now, with a delicate touch, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
– Gently peel back that digitizer ribbon cable and grab the flat end of a spudger to free up the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
– With a gentle touch, slide your fingers in and free the digitizer ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift away the front panel from the iPad, revealing the wonders inside!
Step 37
– Gently peel back and lift off the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 38
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly.
– Keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right to release the adhesive that’s keeping the camera ribbon cable snug.
Tools Used
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax that camera ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the plastic antenna housing. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 40
– Take a moment to gently detach the camera from your iPad. It’s like giving it a little break!
Step 41
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the little retaining flap on that microphone cable ZIF connector. You got this!
– Next, slide the spudger’s tip right under the microphone ribbon cable and ease it out of its ZIF connector. Smooth moves!
Tools Used
Step 42
– Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently pry the microphone ribbon cable away from the adhesive holding it snugly to the rear case.
– Next up, take the tip of your spudger and carefully peel the microphone away from the rear case. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 43
– Gently detach the microphone from the back of your iPad. You’ve got this!
