How to Replace iPad 2 GSM Volume and Power Button Cable

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 57 Steps

Get ready to tackle the replacement of the volume and power button cable assembly in your iPad 2 GSM! This handy assembly also houses the sensor that detects the magnet in a Smart Cover. Just a heads up, some parts of this guide were filmed using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a bit different from your cellular version. No worries though—the steps are pretty much the same for both models, except where we’ve pointed it out. And if you ever find yourself needing a little extra help, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

Step 1

It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. Any pesky residue left behind could get cozy with your iOpener, and we definitely don’t want that!

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. Overheating it might lead to some unexpected surprises, like a burst! Let’s keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for safety’s sake.

If you see that the iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space—no touching, please!

If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, no worries! Keep using it while you let it cool down a bit more before reheating. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.

– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you work through the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by giving it another thirty-second microwave break whenever it starts to cool down.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 3

The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just be your new best friend.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the warm center.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 4

No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to get it nice and toasty.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil, then switch off the burner.

– Carefully drop the iOpener into the steamy water for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s completely submerged!

– Use some tongs to fish out the heated iOpener from its cozy water bath.

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy helper.

– Voila! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the boiling process and let it soak again for 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 5

Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – it’s more delicate than it looks!

– If your screen’s looking a bit worse for wear with cracks, let’s keep those shards in check and avoid any accidents during your repair by sticking some tape on it.

– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s screen until it’s completely covered. It’s like giving your device a protective hug!

– Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as it’s laid out. Just a heads-up, once the glass is cracked, it might decide to keep on breaking while you work. You may need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the glass.

Step 6

Just a friendly reminder: while you’re tackling this repair, you might encounter some sharp glass. So, why not rock a pair of safety glasses? They’ll keep those pesky shards at bay and add a touch of cool to your repair game!

– Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s lying flat and making solid contact with the surface. We want it to feel like a cozy hug!

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to lift the front panel. Patience is key, and you got this!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 7

Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Take your time and be gentle—wiggle that plastic opening tool back and forth as needed, and you’ll get there in no time.

– Hey there! Check out that tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. That’s your secret entry point!

– Now, let’s get down to business! Line up your tool with the mute button and gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge.

Step 8

– Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Step 9

– With the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside your trusty plastic tool.

Step 10

– Take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass until it’s about 0.5 inches deep. Keep it steady and don’t rush!

Step 11

– As you gently coax the adhesive loose on the right side of your iPad, give that iOpener a little reheating love and then place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 12

This adhesive is tough as nails, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle with it!

If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking under the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a smidge. While getting the pick in this deep won’t cause any harm, it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, just keep it in mind!

– As the bottom edge warms up with the iOpener, let’s get to work on freeing that adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, and watch that adhesive let go like it’s on a relaxing vacation.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 13

You might need to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while you peel away the adhesive. This will depend on how long the iPad has been chilling while you’ve been busy working your magic.

– If your opening pick decides to play hide and seek in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the edge of the iPad, and keep on working that adhesive loose. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 14

– Before you whisk away that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that adhesive from getting all clingy again!

– Give your iOpener a little love with some re-heating, and then place it at the top edge of your iPad. You’re almost there!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 15

Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just right, be sure to take it easy while working on it—too much enthusiasm could lead to some serious damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. Let’s keep it safe and sound!

– Alright, folks! Time to tread lightly for the next few steps.

– We’ll be gently freeing the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel, so let’s be extra careful not to harm those fragile connections at the bottom of the iPad. Stick to the steps ahead and you’ll do great!

Step 16

Keep that pick from sliding past the bottom right corner! If you do, you might just give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and that could lead to some unwanted damage.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to release that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!

Step 17

As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking just around the corner. If you’re not careful with the adhesive, it might just say goodbye!

Just give that pick a little wiggle and don’t yank it all the way out from under the front glass! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip still tucked away under there, and you’ll be golden.

– Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad to release the sticky adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

Step 18

– After you’ve danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that opening pick all the way in.

– Now, glide that pick to the right and let it work its magic, freeing the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna snugly to the front glass.

Step 19

Keep the iOpener in check! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a cool two-minute break before you heat it up again. You’re doing great!

If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cozy and cooled down along the bottom edge, give the iOpener another round of heat to warm things up where you’re working.

– Keep gently peeling back the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to wrap around the home button. Once you’ve navigated past the home button, slide the pick back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm).

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 20

– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!

– Pop that opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button and let it hang out there.

Step 21

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. It’s time to let the warmth work its magic on the adhesive in that area!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 22

If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool for its own good, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep on going! If your iOpener seems to be losing its warmth, give it a quick reheat and you’re back in business!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Keep in mind that the adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.

– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as illustrated in step 9.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 23

If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still holding on tight, just give the iOpener another warm-up and set it on the left edge while you get to work!

– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

The digitizer cable is hiding about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Once you slide the pick down to around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop! You’re doing great!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, releasing that adhesive as you go along. No worries, the adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer hanging out on the entire left side. Just keep the pick shallow (no deeper than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’re doing great!

Step 25

Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is only about 1 inch (25 mm) from the base of the iPad. Take your time and tread lightly to avoid accidentally cutting this cable.

– With that trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!

Step 26

It looks like some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad may have decided to stick around a bit longer. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the area where the front glass is still holding on tight, and give that adhesive a little snip.

– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a little love with your fingers to hold it in place!

Step 27

Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be lurking around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive keeping the front panel in place.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust bunnies or fingerprints from the LCD before reattaching the glass. A clean screen is a happy screen!

Step 28

– Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD in place on the back case. You’ve got this!

Step 29

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s nearest to the volume buttons and swing it away from the rear case like a pro.

– Carefully set the LCD down on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture.

Step 30

– Gently peel back the rubber cover from the metal camera retainer and take it off the iPad 2. Remember, slow and steady wins the race!

Step 31

Just a friendly reminder to make sure that little thermal pad is snugly attached to the metal retaining clip, just like in the third picture, when you’re swapping out that rear camera. You’re doing great!

– First things first, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out these two screws:

– Now, gently lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its cozy little spot in the rear panel.

Step 32

– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the rear camera connector up from its cozy spot on the upper component board. You’ve got this!

– Now, go ahead and lift out the rear camera. It’s time for a little camera relocation!

Step 33

Time to say goodbye to any foam tape sitting on top of that GPS cable ZIF connector. Give it a gentle removal!

Hold your horses on disconnecting this cable for now—it’ll pop right out when you lift off the upper component board.

– Gently poke the spudger’s tip under the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and give it a little flip to free up that GPS cable! You’re doing great!

Step 34

– Unscrew the screws holding the volume/power button assembly cable in place. You’ve got this!

Step 35

– Take off the metal bracket that holds the rotation lock/silent switch in place. You’ve got this!

Step 36

– Gently pull the power button cable out of its cozy little spot in the rear case and give it a little bend to the side, just to keep it out of the way.

– You’ll notice the ribbon cable has the mechanical button that needs to snugly fit with the plastic button cover still hanging out in the case.

Step 37

– Gently detach the sleep/power button from the back casing. Remember, it’s like a little puzzle piece!

– Take a mental snapshot of how everything fits together for reassembly; the metal spring bar should gracefully drop down toward the back of the case.

Step 38

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t go removing that bracket completely! It’s still hanging out with the button ribbon cable, and we wouldn’t want it to feel lonely.

– Take the center screw hole of the volume control bracket and gently tilt it towards the edge of the case. Then, just lift it up and out of its cozy little spot!

Step 39

– Carefully peel the power and volume button cable away from the back of the case. We want it to feel loved, not torn!

– Gently bend the cable towards the inside of the rear case. Just a little bend, though! It’s still connected to the upper component board, so let’s not get too wild.

Step 40

– Let’s kick things off by detaching the rotation lock/silent switch from the back of the case. Easy peasy!

– Make a mental note of how everything is oriented for reassembly. Remember, the mechanical switch needs to play nice with the button cover, so double-check that they fit together like puzzle pieces!

Step 41

– Take the tip of your spudger and gently nudge the volume rocker inward, tucking it away into the cozy confines of the rear case.

– Now, go ahead and lift that volume rocker right out of the rear case. You’re doing great!

Step 42

– Gently slide the tip of your trusty opening pick under the Smart Cover sleep/wake sensor and coax it away from the rear case with a little love and care.

Step 43

– Gently peel back the volume rocker section of the button cable from the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 44

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t yank that cable out completely! It’s still hanging on by a connector that’s taped to the upper component board. Let’s keep it cozy while we work our magic.

– Carefully peel away the last bit of the horizontal section from the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 45

– Unscrew the lone 2 mm Phillips #000 screw located at the bottom of the upper component board. You’ve got this!

Step 46

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle out that foam block nestled between the rear case and the upper component board. You’ve got this!

Step 47

Handle that board with care! Give it some love and avoid bending it too much or letting it rub against the rear case. You’re doing great!

– Slide a spudger under the end of the upper component board and gently nudge it toward the volume rocker to break the adhesive’s grip on the board.

Step 48

Handle with care! Avoid letting the board get cozy with the top of the rear case.

– Gently slide a spudger under the GPS connector end of the upper component board and lift it away from its sticky friend, the adhesive. Just a little nudge and it should pop right up!

– As you do this, the GPS antenna cable will gracefully slip out of its ZIF socket. When it’s time to put everything back together, just slide that cable back into its cozy socket as you reattach the upper component board.

Step 49

Remember, when you’re disconnecting that cable, keep it level – no lifting it up!

– Lift the retaining bar that holds down the upper component board cable connector with a gentle flick.

– Carefully pull the connector straight out of its cozy little home on the logic board.

Step 50

– Gently peel the upper component board cable away from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear case.

Step 51

To take out the upper component board, gently tug on its cable while lifting it just enough to get over the battery, but not so high that it bumps into the rear case. Take your time and be careful—it’s all about the finesse!

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the upper component board and give it a little lift. You’ve got this!

– Carefully pull the board up and out from the cozy spot nestled between the battery and the rear case bezel.

– Time to say goodbye to the upper component board—remove it with confidence!

– As you get ready to put everything back together, don’t forget to reconnect the GPS antenna cable at this stage. A little help from tweezers will make it easier, so take your time!