DIY Guide to Replace iPad GSM LCD Screen
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Heads up! Before diving into this repair adventure, make sure you’ve got all your tools ready and your workspace is clear. If things get tricky or you just want some extra hands, feel free to schedule a repair with us!
Follow this guide to swap out that pesky broken LCD! Keep in mind, parts of this guide feature a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. No worries though—the steps are pretty much the same for both models, except where we mention otherwise. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before you dive into the repair, give your microwave a little TLC. A quick clean will help ensure that any stubborn residue doesn’t hitch a ride on your iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We want it to do its job without turning into a fireball. Aim to keep the temperature below 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any bursting surprises.
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is all puffed up, steer clear of it.
If the center of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight and let it cool a bit more before giving it another go. A well-heated iOpener should keep its warmth for about 10 minutes—perfect for your repair needs!
– Give your iOpener a cozy thirty-second warm-up in the microwave.
– As you tackle the repair, keep the iOpener toasty by giving it a quick reheat every thirty seconds while it cools down.
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Step 3
Caution! The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best buddy here!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the warm center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop that iOpener in some boiling water for a quick warm-up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to make sure your iOpener can take a nice swim.
– Bring that water to a boil and then turn off the heat. We’re not trying to create a sauna here!
– Gently place the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just ensure it’s fully submerged so it gets nice and cozy.
– Using tongs (safety first!), carefully take the heated iOpener out of the hot water.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry – we want it to feel fresh and ready to go!
– And voila! Your iOpener is all set for action. If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care to avoid any accidental mishaps!
– If your screen is sporting a crack, let’s keep it together and avoid any pesky injuries during your repair. A little packing tape goes a long way!
– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. Think of it as a protective shield!
– Stick with the guide as best you can! Just a heads up: once the glass starts to break, it might keep on cracking while you work. You might need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop the glass out.
Step 6
Just a quick heads-up! Since you might be dealing with some fragile glass in this process, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it makes solid contact with the surface. Give it a little love by smoothing it out!
– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and start opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time, be gentle, and give the plastic tool a little wiggle back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Spot the little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. That’s your golden opportunity to get started!
– Now, let’s get aligned with the mute button. Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide the tip into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge is all you need to create a wider opening.
Step 9
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right beside your opening tool. You’re on the right track!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide that opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch in. You’ve got this!
Step 12
That adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a little elbow grease! Just take it easy and be careful out there.
If the tip of your opening pick is peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out just a smidge. While having the pick in this position is safe, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on your LCD. No worries, though—you’re doing great!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s start loosening that stubborn adhesive on the right side of the iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, carefully releasing the adhesive as you glide along.
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Step 13
As you tackle that adhesive, it might be a good idea to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little adjustment depends on how long the iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy working your magic.
– If your trusty opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the iPad’s side, and keep on releasing that sticky stuff like a pro.
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Step 14
– Before you pluck that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking again—no sticky situations here!
– Give your iOpener a little love by reheating it, then move it to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s get that adhesive nice and cozy!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled snugly at the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad, held in place by screws and a cable. Due to the unique positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to tread carefully during this process to avoid any potential mishaps that could lead to some serious damage. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to roll up those sleeves! The next few steps need a steady hand and a sprinkle of caution.
– You’ll be gently releasing the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, and we need to do it without causing any trouble to the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it step by step and keep it smooth!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t slide that pick any further than the bottom right corner. You could accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way like a champ.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky close to the corner. If the adhesive decides to play tricks on you, it could get severed easily. So, stay sharp and take your time!
Just gently wiggle that pick out from under the front glass—no need to go all the way! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked away under there.
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, give the pick a little nudge to the right to free up the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heat game strong but not too hot! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another go.
– Keep easing that adhesive away from the bottom of the iPad! Make sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to slide around the home button, and then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep that adhesive coming and slide it along the entire bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Once you’ve got that down, tuck the opening pick snugly under the front glass close to the home button and let it hang out for a bit.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chill, pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep on working your magic. And if the iOpener is feeling a little too cool for school, just give it a little reheating to get back in the game!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is super strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful—nobody wants to slip and accidentally harm themselves or your iPad!
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still pretty sticky, just give that iOpener another heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work. You’ve got this!
– Keep peeling that adhesive away from the top edge of the iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take a break from sliding that pick when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go. Just a heads-up: the adhesive is pretty thin along this edge thanks to the digitizer running the entire left side. Be careful not to push the pick in too deep—stick to a max of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer.
Step 25
Be cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable hangs out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid any accidental snips.
– With the opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive loose at the bottom left corner. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it in place.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be hanging around, and grab an opening pick to slice through any leftover glue that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give that front glass a gentle twist to separate it from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD. It’ll be just like new!
Step 28
– Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out from the rear case like a pro.
– Carefully place the LCD down on the front panel just like you see in the second picture.
Step 30
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the metal retaining clip that holds the display data cable snugly in its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Remember, when you’re disconnecting the display data cable connector, keep it cool and avoid pulling it upwards. It’s all about that gentle touch!
– Gently wiggle and slide the display data cable out of its cozy little home on the logic board.
Step 32
– Gently detach the LCD assembly from the iPad 2. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– Peel away the tiny black tape that’s keeping the display data cable connector on the LCD snug as a bug. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge up the metal retaining clip on the display data cable connector. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Hang tight, we’re almost there! Just a quick note about the LCD: when you’re putting it back into a different device, don’t forget to swap out that foam around it. It’s not just for show! That foam creates a little barrier between the digitizer and the LCD, helping to keep those pesky ‘ghost’ touches at bay. You’ve got this!
