How to Replace iPad 2 CDMA Bluetooth Wi-Fi Antenna
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Heads up! While tackling this repair, remember to keep your workspace tidy and your tools handy. If things get tricky, no worries! Just take a breather and if you need assistance, you can always schedule a repair. You’ve got this!
Get ready to tackle the replacement of your Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna! While some parts of this guide were filmed using a Wi-Fi model, don’t worry—everything is pretty much the same for the cellular model, just with a few differences noted along the way. Let’s dive in and get your device back in action!
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before you dive in. Trust us, any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener!
– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up for a bit!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair journey! If it gets too hot, it might just pop like a balloon. Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth ride.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space—no touching, please!
If the center of your iOpener is still a bit too toasty to handle, hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another go. A perfectly warmed iOpener should keep the warmth for up to 10 minutes. You’re doing great!
– Give your iOpener a warm-up session in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your tool!
– As you work through your repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. You’re doing great!
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt can be your best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the heated center.
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Step 4
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just pop your iOpener in some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Heat that water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first, my friend!
– Gently place the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged so it can get nice and cozy.
– Using some tongs, carefully fish out the heated iOpener from the water. Watch those fingers!
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry. We want it to be fresh and ready to roll.
– And just like that, your iOpener is good to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and watch out for that delicate LCD screen!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep things from getting worse and protect yourself while you work by applying some tape to the glass.
– Cover the entire face of your iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape. It’s like giving your device a protective hug!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass is shattered, it might keep cracking a bit while you’re working. You may need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads up, while you’re tackling this repair, you might encounter some tricky bits of broken glass. To keep those peepers safe from any flying shards, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for optimal contact. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give the bag a cozy 90-second break on the iPad before you dive in and start prying open the front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a bit of muscle to slide the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle as needed. You’re doing great!
– Look closely at your iPad and you’ll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. That’s our little secret passageway to get things rolling.
– Now, let’s get that tool aligned with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just enough to give it a little nudge and widen the crack. You’re doing great!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside the tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass, aiming for about half an inch. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some serious elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle!
If you catch a glimpse of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s totally fine to use the pick at this depth, just a heads up: it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep that in mind as you work your magic!
– While the bottom edge is soaking up the heat from the iOpener, let’s get that adhesive on the right edge of the iPad to loosen up a bit.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way. You’re doing great!
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of your iPad while peeling away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you were busy being a tech wizard.
– If your opening pick is having a tough time with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to help break free that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help prevent the adhesive from sticking back down, making your job easier!
– Give that iOpener a quick reheat and then place it at the top edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle this part with care to avoid any unintentional damage that could be tricky to fix.
– Alright, friends, it’s time to tread lightly! These next steps are a bit like walking on eggshells.
– You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while ensuring the delicate bits connected to the bottom of the iPad stay intact. So, let’s take it slow and follow these steps with care!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick beyond the bottom right corner. Doing so could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna, and we don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that stubborn adhesive like a pro!
Step 17
Be careful as you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner, and if you’re not gentle with the adhesive, it might just say goodbye.
Just slide that pick out a tad—no need to yank it completely! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip cozy under the front glass.
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna gives way. Easy peasy!
Step 18
– After you’ve made your way past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’re doing great!
– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Keep it up!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating time to a minute max, and give it a cool two-minute break before giving it another go!
– Keep gently peeling away the sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to glide around the home button. Once you’re past that little guy, slide the pick back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep for the best results.
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Nestle the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button to keep things nice and open.
Step 22
If your adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, no worries! Just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on going. And if your iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, give it a little reheat to get back in the game!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so don’t be shy about using some elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could hurt you or your iPad.
– If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try to ‘roll’ it as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still holding on tight, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and gently wiggle the opening pick around that top left corner like you’re giving it a little dance.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, take a little pause when you hit around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting the adhesive loosen up as you go. It’s a bit thin in this area thanks to the digitizer running along the whole left side, so be sure to keep the pick shallow—no deeper than half an inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this little guy. You’ve got this!
– With that trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, go ahead and gently release the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
– With one of those handy opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little nudge with your fingers to grab hold of it.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. It’s like a little dance move – just a smooth rotation!
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean-up. Dust and fingerprints? Not on our watch! Let’s keep it crystal clear before sealing it back up.
Step 28
– Take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the rear case. You got this!
Step 29
– The front panel’s ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To reach them, you’ll want to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
– Carefully lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and smoothly flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning the page of your favorite book.
– Now, place the LCD face down on the front panel, taking care to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 30
Make sure you’re gently lifting the hinged retaining flaps and not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red for your reference!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You’re doing great!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. It’s like peeling a sticker off, but way cooler!
– Next, carefully wiggle the digitizer cable free from the adhesive that’s holding it snugly to the side of the rear case. Take your time and be gentle—it’s like giving your device a little hug!
Step 32
– Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two cozy homes on the logic board.
Step 33
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll need to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little wiggle of the LCD will give you the space you need to work your magic.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s furthest away from the digitizer cable and flip it back like you’re closing a book—easy does it!
– While you’re holding that LCD up, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a heads up: watch out for that digitizer cable—it can be a bit shy around the rear case or LCD!
Step 34
To dive into the iPad’s inner workings, we’ll need to gently lift the LCD out of its cozy case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—just like you’re turning the pages of your favorite book!
– Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth is a great idea to keep it safe from scratches!
Step 35
Hey there! When you’re disconnecting that connector, remember to keep it steady and avoid pulling it upwards from its socket. You’ve got this!
– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel, giving it a comfy spot.
– Grab a plastic opening tool and nudge the display data cable lock upwards with care.
– Now, give the display data cable a gentle pull to free it from its socket.
Step 36
– Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly, like peeling off a sticker – easy does it!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift off that pesky piece of tape blocking the dock connector cable’s way.
– With the edge of the plastic opening tool, carefully nudge the dock connector cable’s connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board.
– Now, peel back the dock connector ribbon cable from the rear panel with a little finesse.
Step 38
– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. No need to rush, just take it easy and it’ll come right off!
Step 39
– First things first, let’s tackle those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket snugly in place near the digitizer cable socket. Grab your trusty screwdriver and give them a twist!
– Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift the logic board bracket off the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 40
Be gentle when disconnecting the cable—just slide it out, don’t yank it up!
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift up the retainer that’s keeping the control board cable connector snug in its socket on the logic board.
– Carefully pull the connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 41
– Unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communications boards snugly to the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 42
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: don’t lift the logic board too high off the back case. It’s still got some antennas hanging on for dear life!
– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and coax it up from the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 43
– Gently lift the top of the logic board and detach the two antennas on the left side.
– Swing the logic board towards the center of the iPad and unplug the final antenna at the top.
– Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna located at the bottom of the logic board.
Step 44
– Time to take the plunge and pop that logic board out of the iPad 2! You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Gently shift the dock connector and speaker cables to the side, then carefully peel off the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable from the adhesive that’s keeping it snugly attached to the rear case.
Step 46
– Unscrew the screws that are holding the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna snugly to the rear panel. Let’s get this party started!
Step 47
– Gently peel the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna off the speaker enclosure and set it free from the iPad 2. You’ve got this!
