iPad 2 CDMA Battery Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step Tutorial

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!

– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you work through the repair, keep the good vibes going by reheating the iOpener in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.

– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s completely submerged in the warm embrace of the water.

– Using some tongs, gently pull out the heated iOpener from the water. Watch out, it’s hot stuff!

– Give your iOpener a good dry-off with a towel, so it’s all set for action.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is ready to roll! If you find it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let your iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering into a million pieces and protect those hands of yours by taping it up.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s all wrapped up tight.

– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Remember, once that glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so be ready to use a metal prying tool to scoop it out if needed.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure to smooth it out for a snug fit. We want that iOpener to connect nicely with the iPad!

– Give it a little time to work its magic—let the bag rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to open that front panel.

– Hey there! Spot that tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!

– Now, align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to give that crack a little stretch.

– Ensure that you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’re doing great!

– With the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside the plastic opening tool. Keep it cool and steady!

– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches deep. You’ve got this!

– As you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheating love, and then pop it back onto the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.

– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing the sticky stuff as you go along.

– If your opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before you pop out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down.

– Give your iOpener a little heat boost, then place it at the top edge of your iPad.

– Alright, folks! It’s time to tread carefully through the next few steps.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, making sure not to harm the delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. So, let’s take it slow and follow the upcoming steps with care!

– Gently glide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive like a champ.

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

– Now that you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to reinsert that opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.

– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve successfully passed the home button, pop that pick back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’re doing great!

– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!

– Once you’re done, slide the opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.

– Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it right on the left edge of your iPad to get that adhesive nice and cozy in that spot.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is super strong, so don’t be shy about applying some muscle. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps that could harm you or your iPad.

– If the pick seems to be getting stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.

– Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and smoothly glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting that adhesive loosen up as you go. No need to worry—it’s a bit thinner here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just remember to keep the pick shallow (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently release the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Take your time, and remember, you’ve got this!

– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped up, use your fingers to hold it steady. You’re doing great!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to give the LCD a little love! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any dust bunnies or fingerprints before you seal it up.

– Let’s get started by taking out those four tiny 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD tight against the rear case. You’ve got this!

– To get to those sneaky front panel ribbon cables hiding beneath the LCD, just give the LCD a gentle flip out of the way for a moment.

– Start by lifting the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and carefully flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book!

– Now, lay the LCD face down on the front panel, giving it a cozy spot to rest.

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps of those two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. No need to rush, we want to keep things smooth and steady!

– Next up, carefully peel the digitizer cable off the sticky adhesive that’s got it hugging the side of the rear case. Take your time—patience is key!

– Gently slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two cozy sockets on the logic board.

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s furthest away from the digitizer cable, and then smoothly swing it back like you’re closing a book.

– While you’re holding the LCD up, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just make sure to avoid snagging that digitizer cable on the rear case or the LCD.

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it as turning the page of your favorite book.

– Carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath is a smart move to keep it scratch-free.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You got this!

– Slide that plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to release it from the adhesive holding it snug against the rear panel. A little finesse goes a long way!

– Now, confidently pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You’ve made it this far—keep going!

– Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the headphone jack snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the headphone jack away from its snug little home at the top edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel, taking care not to damage anything in the process.

– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector snug as a bug.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and use its edge to pop the front camera cable free from the headphone jack cable.

– Gently detach the front camera cable from the bottom ribbon cable linked to the headphone jack. You’re doing great!

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently slide it along the edge to unplug that microphone cable connector like a pro!

– Take out the headphone jack from the iPad 2.

– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel, giving it a cozy spot.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the display data cable lock upwards like a pro.

– Now, with a little finesse, pull the display data cable out of its socket.

– Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift that sneaky piece of tape hiding the end of the dock connector cable.

– With the edge of the plastic opening tool, carefully nudge the dock connector cable’s connector up and out from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Now, peel off the dock connector ribbon cable from the rear panel like you’re unwrapping a present!

– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy little home on the logic board.

– First up, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snugly against the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket.

– Once those screws are out, gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift up the retainer that’s holding the control board cable connector snug in its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Now, carefully pull that connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Let’s get this party started by unscrewing the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards tight to the rear panel. You got this!

– Gently nudge the logic board away from the sticky embrace of the rear case using the edge of a plastic opening tool. It’s like giving it a little hug goodbye!

– Gently raise the top of the logic board and unplug the two antennas on the left side.

– Swing the logic board toward the center of the iPad and disconnect the final antenna at the top.

– Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna located at the bottom of the logic board.

– Gently lift out the logic board from your iPad 2, like a pro!

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a minute to get it nice and toasty.

– Once it’s warm, place the iOpener on the back of the iPad, just to the right of center (that’s the side opposite the rear-facing camera). Let it chill there for 90 seconds to help soften that pesky battery adhesive.

– Next, slide the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let it sit for another 90 seconds.

– Finally, move the iOpener over to the left edge (where the rear-facing camera hangs out) of the back of the iPad and give it another 90 seconds to work its magic.

– Let’s kick things off with the battery cell that’s hanging out closest to the dock connector. Grab a plastic opening tool and gently slide it underneath the edge of the battery nearest to the logic board area. We want to create a little wiggle room to slip in the flat end of a spudger.

– Now, take that trusty spudger and glide it along the two long sides of each battery cell. We’re aiming to fully detach them from the adhesive that’s been holding them snugly to the rear case.

– If the adhesive is putting up a stubborn fight, don’t sweat it! Just reheat the rear panel a bit and give it another go.

– Before you pop up that middle battery cell, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the battery connector board away from the rear panel. You’re doing great!

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and gently work your way along the long edges of the middle battery cell to break that adhesive seal.

– Don’t forget to give the last battery cell the same treatment! If it’s being a bit stubborn, a little heat to the case can work wonders.

– Gently lift the battery out from the back panel and pop it out of your iPad 2. You’ve got this!