How to Replace iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Microphone
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 38 Steps
Hey there, repair champ! Just a friendly reminder to handle those parts with care. We want your device to be as good as new! If you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!
Follow this guide to swap out that pesky microphone that just won’t cooperate. Trust us, it’s a breeze compared to mastering American Sign Language!
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any leftover mess on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up.
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. If it gets too hot, it could go boom! So, let’s keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit puffy, steer clear of it!
If the middle of your iOpener is still feeling like a hot potato, hang tight and let it chill out a bit more before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay toasty for about 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your repair tools!
– As you work through your repair, keep the iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Your gadget will thank you!
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty toasty, so handle it with care! An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if things get too hot to handle.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener in a pot of boiling water to give it a nice warm-up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Bring that water to a lively boil and then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling!
– Gently place your iOpener into the warm water for about 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully soaking in the heat.
– Use tongs to carefully fish out your heated iOpener from the water—safety first!
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry; we want it to be nice and fresh.
– Voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little reheating later, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to handle that LCD screen with care—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep those shards in check and avoid any accidental ouchies while you work. A little tape goes a long way!
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. It’s like giving your device a protective blanket!
– Now, just follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Remember, once that glass starts to break, it may keep cracking as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the pieces. You’ve got this!
Step 6
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that you might encounter some sharp glass while tackling this project. So, why not rock a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay? Safety first, fun second!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little love tap to ensure it’s making solid contact with the surface. We want that warmth to work its magic!
– Give the iOpener some time to work its charm—let it chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to open up the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that stubborn tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle, but no worries! Take your time and gently wiggle that plastic tool back and forth as needed. You’ve got this!
– Look closely at the upper right corner of your iPad. You’ll spot a tiny gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s like a secret door waiting to be opened!
– Now, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and line it up with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in there—just enough to widen the crack a bit. You’re on your way to some sweet repair action!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick deeper under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches in. You’ve got this!
Step 12
This adhesive means business! You might need to put in some elbow grease, so take it slow and steady.
If you spot the tip of that trusty opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. No worries about causing any damage here, but just a heads up—getting too deep might leave some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep it cool and carry on!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go. You’re doing great!
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Step 13
As you release the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. Just keep in mind how long the iPad has been cooling down while you’ve been working your magic.
– If your opening pick decides to play hard to get in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff at bay.
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Step 14
– Before you take out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking again.
– Give your iOpener a little re-heat and then place it at the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fixed to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you could end up causing some serious damage to it. So, let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to channel your inner repair guru! These next steps are a bit delicate, so let’s keep our cool. You’re going to need to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel—just remember to be gentle with those tiny parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow these steps closely, and you’ll be just fine!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t push the pick too far past the bottom right corner. It could mess with your Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that sticky adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking nearby. It’s like a shy little gremlin right at the corner, and if you’re not careful with the adhesive, it might just decide to say goodbye. So, let’s be gentle and keep it intact!
Just a little tip here: don’t pull the pick all the way out from under the front glass! Leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of it still tucked away so it can keep doing its job.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna, which is about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge or right next to the home button, gently reinsert the opening pick all the way in.
– Now, slide that pick to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Keep your iOpener cool, folks! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and remember to give it a breather for at least two minutes before you fire it up again. You’re doing great!
– Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Nestle the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chill, simply swap the iOpener along the top edge and keep at it. And if the iOpener itself has cooled down too much, give it a little heat boost!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is quite sticky, so you might need to apply some muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still pretty sticky, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling back that adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you reach about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to put the pick down and take a breather!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting that pesky adhesive loosen as you go. It’s a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side, so keep the pick at a shallow depth (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental digitizer damage. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the base of the iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable.
– With that handy opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, let’s gently peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s up, give it a friendly pinch with your fingers to hold it in place!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might still be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that could be keeping that front panel snug as a bug.
– With a gentle grip on the top and bottom right corners of your iPad, give that front glass a little twist away from the device. You’ve got this!
– As you put everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you seal the glass back on. Your screen will thank you!
Step 28
– Get ready to show that LCD who’s boss! Start by unscrewing the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding it snugly to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
The ribbon cables for the front panel are tucked away under the LCD. To get to them, just give the LCD a little flip and set it aside for a moment.
– Gently raise the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like you’re turning a page in your favorite book.
– Carefully place the LCD face down on the front panel.
Step 33
– Gently lift the front-facing camera away from the foam adhesive that’s holding it snugly against the rear case.
– Now, go ahead and detach the front-facing camera completely.
Step 34
Make sure you’re gently lifting on the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. You’re doing great!
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Step 35
– Carefully pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out using a pair of tweezers. You’ve got this!
– Gently bend the cable to keep it out of the way. A little twist here and there will do the trick!
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Step 38
– Gently detach the microphone cable from the back of the case.
