DIY Guide to Replace Charging Port on Xperia Z5 Compact

– Give that cover a gentle nudge with your finger or a spudger at the lower end of your smartphone. A little twist of 90° will help you reach the card slot with ease!

– Time to say goodbye to the SIM and microSD cards! The SIM card is snugly resting in its tray, so just pop it out.

– First things first, the back cover is stuck on there pretty good. Grab your heat gun and warm it up a bit to loosen that stubborn glue.

– Next, let’s get a suction cup on the lower end of your device. Give it a gentle pull while you press down on the chassis with a plastic pick. Teamwork makes the dream work!

– Once you see a little gap forming between the chassis and the back cover, slide that pick right in there. Just a heads up, the inside of the back cover is painted, so be super careful when removing any leftover adhesive to avoid any scratches or cracks.

– Now, take that pick and run it around the entire device to fully separate the glue. If you’ve got a couple of picks handy, feel free to pop one into each corner for a smoother experience.

– Finally, it’s time to remove the back cover and reveal the magic inside!

– Take out that type plate like a pro! It’s snugly fit in the SIM and microSD card slot, just waiting for you to give it a gentle nudge.

– First up, gently unplug the NFC antenna’s connector from the chassis. Easy peasy!

– Next, let’s tackle the antenna attached to the battery. It’s a bit sticky since it’s glued on. Grab a steel laboratory spatula and carefully slide it between the antenna and the battery. If that glue is being stubborn, a little heat should do the trick to loosen it up.

– Finally, go ahead and lift off the NFC antenna. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty screwdriver and unscrew those two Phillips screws that are keeping the main antenna snug as a bug. They’re 2 x 4.5 mm Phillips screws, so make sure you have the right tool in hand!

– Now that those screws are out of the way, gently remove the main antenna from the device. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty steel laboratory spatula and gently pry the LED flash away from the chassis—it’s just a little stuck with glue, but you’ve got this!

– Time to tackle those eight Phillips screws holding the chassis to the display. Get ready to unscrew those 8 x 4.5 mm Phillips screws!

– The chassis is snugly hooked onto the display. Use that steel spatula to carefully separate them. Slide it right between the chassis and the display like a pro.

– Now, go ahead and lift off the chassis. You’re doing great!

– Unplug the battery connector from the logic board and give yourself a little high-five for taking this step!

– Gently unplug the rear camera from the logic board, like you’re giving it a little high-five.

– Carefully take out the rear-facing camera, as if you’re lifting a delicate treasure.

– Disconnect the front camera’s contact from the logic board.

– Remove the front camera from the enclosure.

– Pop that speaker out of its cozy little home!

– First things first, let’s unplug that Micro-USB port from the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Now, grab your trusty steel laboratory spatula and gently pry the voice microphone away from the display frame. Be careful, it’s a delicate operation!

– Next up, use that same steel spatula to lift the vibrator motor out of the display frame. You’ve got this!

– Time to detach the plastic bar that’s keeping the logic board snug in the display frame. Once it’s free, go ahead and remove it.

– With a gentle touch, lift the logic board using the flat end of your spudger and pull it partway out of the display frame. You’re making great progress!

– Finally, disconnect the headphone jack from the display frame. Almost there!

– Alright, let’s get that logic board out! It’s snugly attached to the bottom of the display. Gently fold it over at the side where the volume rocker switch is hanging out.

– Next up, peel off the polyamide film that’s shielding the contacts. Make sure to hold onto that film; you’ll need it when we put everything back together.

– Now, it’s time to disconnect those two display contacts. Give them a little wiggle and they should come free.

– Carefully lift them away from the logic board.

– Finally, let’s remove the logic board itself. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty steel spatula and gently pry the Micro-USB port away from the display frame. Take your time, we believe in you!

– Now, go ahead and remove the port. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get that Micro-USB port snug in the display frame! Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

– First up, connect those two display cables to the logic board—let’s get things hooked up!

– Next, grab that polyamide film and lay it down to keep those display contacts safe and sound. If it’s not sticking like it should, feel free to use a different type of tape to get the job done.

– Now, with a gentle touch, fold the logic board back into its cozy spot. You’re doing great!

– Gently guide the headphone jack into the display frame’s opening and carefully place the logic board back in its home.

– Slide the bar back into the enclosure and use it to snugly secure the logic board in place.

– Pop in the vibrator motor and the voice microphone into their cozy spots within the enclosure.

– Connect the Micro-USB port to the logic board and make sure it’s all set to go!

– Time to snuggle that speaker into its enclosure!

– Gently place the front camera into its cozy little home in the enclosure.

– Now, let’s connect that front camera to the logic board and get it all set up!

– Carefully place the rear camera back where it belongs in the enclosure.

– Give a gentle nudge to connect the rear camera to the logic board.

– Connect the battery contact to the logic board.

– First, let’s get that chassis cozy on the display.

– Give the chassis a gentle press until it clicks into the display frame like a puzzle piece.

– Now, grab those eight Phillips screws and secure the chassis to the display – we’re talking 8 x 4.5 mm Phillips screws here.

– Finally, attach the LED flash to the chassis and light things up!

– Time to get your antenna on! Place the main antenna snugly in the enclosure.

– Secure the main antenna to your device with those trusty two Phillips screws (2 x 4.5 mm, to be exact). If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Get that NFC antenna cozy on the battery! Just press it down so the glue can do its magic and stick back together.

– Now, let’s connect the NFC antenna’s plug to the chassis. Make sure it’s snug and secure!

– Time to get that type plate in place! Simply attach it in the SIM and microSD card slot, and you’re all set!

– Let’s get that back cover snugly on the chassis! Press it down firmly along all the edges to make sure it sticks like a champ.

– If you’re having a tough time getting it to stick, try warming up the back of the device a bit. A little heat goes a long way! You might also want to use a clamp to keep constant pressure on the back cover while it sets.

– If the cover is back in place, give it a gentle nudge with your finger or a spudger to pop it open again. You can twist the cover 90° to make it easier to reach that sneaky card slot.

– Now, it’s time to slide those SIM and microSD cards back into their cozy homes. Just place the SIM card back in the tray, and you’re all set!