DIY Guide to Replace Moto G10 Screen Step-by-Step

Duration: 120 min.
Steps: 53 Steps

If you’re looking to swap out that screen, you’ve come to the right place! In this easy-to-follow photo guide, we’ll walk you through each step to make the process a breeze.

Step 1

– Give that power button a good press and hold until you see the Power Off menu pop up on your screen. It’s like magic!

– Now, just tap on Power off in that menu. Your smartphone will gracefully power down in just a few seconds. Easy peasy!

Step 2

– Grab a slim, pointy object and gently poke it into the tiny round hole next to the SIM tray to nudge it out of the device. A SIM tool works wonders for this task!

– Once you’ve got it moving, just pull the tray all the way out of the frame.

Tools Used
  1. SIM Tool

Step 3

– Gently slide your tool under the edge of the back cover, like you’re tucking in a cozy blanket.

– Now, glide that tool around the back cover, piece by piece. You’ll hear those hooks with the screen unit loosening up, and trust me, it’ll be music to your ears!

Tools Used
  1. Flat Picks
  2. battery? Then the iPlastix with its large blade will help you. The practical assistant is made of flexible, especially sturdy plastic and lies comfortably in the hand. Thanks to its design, you can even get into smaller gaps, for example to lift the screen or to prevent it from sticking together again.” rel=”noopener”>iPlastix Opening Tool

Step 4

– Give that adhesive a little love by warming it up with a hot air tool for a moment. A heat gun works wonders, but if you’ve got a trusty hair dryer, that’ll do the trick too!

– Gently peel off the back cover with care.

Tools Used
  1. heat gun to heat parts that are glued on so they’re easier to remove.
    In most cases, you can also use a hairdryer.” rel=”noopener”>Heat gun

Step 5

– Gently remove the strips using tweezers, taking care not to rush it.

– If you’re not planning to use them again after the repair, feel free to toss them out!

Step 6

– Gently unscrew the nine Phillips screws holding that plastic cover snugly above the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Place those little screws on the magnetic pad in a way that makes it super easy to spot the two different lengths later on. Organization is key!

Step 7

– Gently pry the plastic cover upwards, releasing the little lugs that keep it snugly attached to the screen unit. A trusty plastic spudger works wonders for this task.

– Set the fingerprint sensor aside and carefully lift out the loosened plastic cover from the device.

Step 8

– Gently wiggle the battery connector free from the motherboard using a plastic spudger. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 9

– Gently pop the fingerprint scanner connector off the board using a spudger. Just take your time and be careful—you’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 10

– Gently lift out the fingerprint scanner from your device and set it aside for now. You’ve got this!

Step 11

– Flip your device over so the screen is facing up, ready for some action!

– Warm up the screen using your hot air tool right where the battery hangs out. Let’s get that heat flowing!

Tools Used
  1. heat gun to heat parts that are glued on so they’re easier to remove.
    In most cases, you can also use a hairdryer.” rel=”noopener”>Heat gun

Step 12

– Grab your suction cup and give that battery a gentle hug on its lower edge. Now, with a smooth, upward motion, let’s get that battery lifted!

– Team up your suction cup with a plastic lever tool (we like to call it our ‘battery buddy’) on the lower edge. Push upwards together – it’s a battery-lifting party! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Step 13

– Slide that sleek iPlastix tool into the lifted edge and gently work it under the battery, inch by inch, until it’s completely free from the screen unit. You’re doing great!

– Now, simply lift out the battery and say goodbye to that old power source!

Tools Used
  1. battery? Then the iPlastix with its large blade will help you. The practical assistant is made of flexible, especially sturdy plastic and lies comfortably in the hand. Thanks to its design, you can even get into smaller gaps, for example to lift the screen or to prevent it from sticking together again.” rel=”noopener”>iPlastix Opening Tool
  2. Battery Spudger

Step 14

– Gently wiggle that copper film with your tweezers to reveal the hidden connector beneath. You’ve got this!

– Next up, give the front camera connector a little nudge and lift it off the board. Easy peasy!

Step 15

– Take the separated front camera out of the device and put it aside.

Step 16

– Gently lift the connector lock with a spudger, like you’re giving it a little nudge to say hello.

– Now, slide the short end of the flex cable out from under the lock, as if you’re freeing a little trapped buddy.

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 17

– Give that black-coated flex cable a little warm-up with some hot air – just a quick blast should do the trick!

– Now, gently pry the flex cable away from the case frame, one piece at a time, using a flat, sturdy tool. Tweezers work wonders for this job!

Tools Used
  1. heat gun to heat parts that are glued on so they’re easier to remove.
    In most cases, you can also use a hairdryer.” rel=”noopener”>Heat gun
  2. Piergiacomi Tweezers 2a SA ESD

Step 18

– Gently detach the last two connectors from the motherboard. A trusty pair of tweezers works wonders for that tiny antenna cable connector!

Step 19

– Gently unscrew those two Phillips screws from the motherboard—let’s get that thing loose!

– Now, give it a cozy spot on the magnetic pad. It deserves a nice place to rest!

Step 20

– Gently nudge the unscrewed motherboard upwards to set it free from its cozy spot.

– Lift it out of the device and place it somewhere safe for now.

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 21

– Gently pry the earpiece free from its home at the top of the screen using tweezers. It’s like a tiny escape artist!

– Pop that earpiece out and set it aside. You’re doing great!

Step 22

– Let’s get those seven Phillips screws out of the speaker module! Easy peasy!

– Give those screws a safe place to hang out – pop ’em on the magnetic pad.

Step 23

– Gently pry the loose speaker out of the screen assembly using a spudger. You’re almost there!

– Once it’s free, just lift it out of the device and set it aside for now.

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 24

– Gently pry the USB board connector apart using a spudger, taking care to avoid any damage. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 25

– Gently coax the antenna cable out of its cozy little guide in the case frame using some tweezers. You’ve got this!

Step 26

– Gently unscrew the lone Phillips screw holding the USB board in place. It’s like giving it a little massage!

– Once it’s free, let it chill on the magnetic pad. It’s a cozy spot for it to relax.

Step 27

– Time to set that USB board free! Carefully pry it upwards to release it from its guide.

– Now, gently pull it out of the device and set it aside – you won’t be needing it for a bit.

Tools Used
  1. Pry Tool

Step 28

– Gently pull out the vibration motor from the screen unit using a pair of tweezers. Take your time and be careful—it’s a little tricky, but you’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. heat gun to heat parts that are glued on so they’re easier to remove.
    In most cases, you can also use a hairdryer.” rel=”noopener”>Heat gun
  2. Piergiacomi Tweezers 2a SA ESD

Step 29

– Before diving into the reassembly party, make sure to peel away all those protective films and seals from the inside of the new screen. It’s like unwrapping a gift, but for your device!

– Feel free to keep that protective film on the screen glass until you wrap up the repair. It’s there to keep things safe and sound until you’re all done!

Step 30

– Put the vibration motor back in its original position and press it lightly.

Step 31

– Carefully place the board back into its cozy spot in the screen unit.

Step 32

– Secure the USB board with a single Phillips screw.

Step 33

– Use tweezers to carefully push the antenna cable back into its guide at the edge of the case.

Step 34

– Gently press down on the USB board connectors until you hear that satisfying *click*—it’s like giving the board a high five! Make sure it’s snug.

Step 35

– Carefully place the speaker back in its rightful spot and give it a good press to secure it snugly.

Step 36

– Secure the speaker in place by using those seven trusty Phillips screws.

Step 37

– Gently slide the earpiece back into its cozy spot and give it a light press. You’ve got this!

Step 38

– Gently slide the motherboard back into the screen unit. If you angle it slightly towards the earpiece, it should fit right in without a hitch!

Step 39

– Secure the motherboard in place using the two Phillips screws. You’ve got this!

Step 40

– Gently reconnect those screen and antenna cable connectors to the motherboard by pressing them down with care. You’ll know they’re secure when you hear and feel that satisfying click!

Step 41

– Get ready to revive your phone and make it shine! First, grab the edge of the phone and align the flex cable with it. You got this!

– Now, gently press down on the flex cable with your finger or a pair of tweezers until it clicks into place. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!

Step 42

– Gently slide the short, uncoated end of the flex cable back into the motherboard’s lock. You’ve got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, use a pair of tweezers to carefully fold the lock down. You’re almost there!

Step 43

– Put the front camera back into its guide at the upper screen edge.

Step 44

– Gently press the front camera connector into the motherboard until you hear that satisfying click. It’s like a little high-five for your device!

– Once that’s all snug and secure, cover the connector back up with the copper foil. It’s like tucking your gadget into bed!

Step 45

– Pop that old battery back into the screen unit and give it a nice, firm press to make sure it’s snug.

– If it feels a bit stubborn, warm it up from the screen side to help that adhesive stick like it means it!

Step 46

– Gently place the fingerprint scanner back where it belongs on the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Step 47

– Pop that fingerprint scanner back into action by gently pressing its connector onto the motherboard. You should hear a satisfying click as it settles in place.

Step 48

– Gently plug the battery connector back into the motherboard, making sure it fits snugly like a puzzle piece!

Step 49

– Gently set the fingerprint scanner aside for now.

– Carefully position the plastic cover over the motherboard and give it a nice, firm press.

– Now, let’s place the fingerprint scanner right on top of that cover.

Step 50

– Secure the plastic cover in place by tightening the nine Phillips screws. Let’s get that back on nice and snug!

Step 51

– Fire up your Moto G10 and get ready to roll!

– Give your screen a little test drive by dragging an app around to see if the touch is working like a charm everywhere.

– Take a moment to check for any pixel hiccups and make sure the colors are looking just right.

– Next up, let’s see how that fingerprint scanner is holding up!

– For testing out the other components, feel free to use our handy checklist as your trusty guide.

Step 52

– Once everything is functioning smoothly, gently press the back cover onto the screen unit. You’ll hear a satisfying click as it locks into place!

– Use your hot air tool to warm up the area around the camera module and fingerprint scanner. This will help the glue stick like a champ!

Tools Used
  1. heat gun to heat parts that are glued on so they’re easier to remove.
    In most cases, you can also use a hairdryer.” rel=”noopener”>Heat gun

Step 53

– Wrap up your repair by sliding the SIM tray back in. You’ll know it’s snug when you hear a satisfying little click!

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