Acer Iconia Tab A501 Screen Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 34 Steps
Cracked screens are the classic tale of modern device woes, often caused by a little too much love (or a drop here and there). In this guide, we’re rolling up our sleeves to show you how to swap out the screen on your Acer Iconia Tab A501. Ready to give that screen a new lease on life? Let’s dive in!
Step 1
Before you start, make sure to power down your device – it’s time to get started on this repair journey!
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently separate the back cover, starting at the volume buttons.
– Keep going along the side near the camera and continue around the device.
Step 2
– Once you’ve made your way around the device and separated it just enough—think a little more than halfway—the back cover should pop off with ease. You’re almost there!
Step 3
– Let’s get started by removing all the tape from your device. This is the first step towards getting it back in working order!
Step 4
When you move on to the next step, take it easy—don’t press too hard or accidentally scratch up the motherboard.
– Grab those angled tweezers and carefully disconnect the motherboard-battery cable from the white connector right in the middle of the side that’s opposite the docking port. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 5
– Grab your trusty Phillips #1 screwdriver and take out the four 4.0 mm screws holding the battery to the motherboard.
– Pop out the battery.
Tools Used
Step 6
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop up the little latch on the motherboard holding the folded white ribbon cable—it’s like opening a tiny treasure chest!
– Carefully slide out the folded white ribbon cable and set it aside for now. Nice and easy!
Step 7
– Grab your trusty Phillips #1 screwdriver and get ready to unscrew those three 3.0 mm Philips head screws keeping the docking port snug as a bug.
– Now, gently lift out the docking port and set it aside.
Tools Used
Step 8
Take it easy with the pressure – we want to keep that motherboard looking sharp, not scratched!
– Gently use the angled tweezers to unplug that little cable with the red, white, and green wires from the beige connector that’s just a hop away from the docking port. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
– Pop out those 3.0 mm Phillips head screws from each speaker using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
– Twist out those 4.0 mm Phillips head screws from each speaker using a Phillips #1 screwdriver.
Tools Used
Step 10
– Take out the speakers with care! Let’s get those little sound machines out of their cozy home.
Step 11
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop up the locking mechanism on the motherboard that’s holding onto the straight, white ribbon cable.
– Next up, carefully detach that straight, white ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Grab your trusty Phillips #1 screwdriver and take out the two 4.0 mm screws holding the metal plate, USB board, and device together. Easy peasy!
– Now, carefully remove the metal plate. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 13
– Grab your trusty Halberd Spudger and gently pry up those ports like a pro! You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 14
Handle this next step with a sprinkle of caution!
– Gently glide the wide, flat end of the trusty Spudger to disconnect that display connector from the big metal port hanging out next to the battery space. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 15
– Time to get disconnected! Use the flat end of your trusty standard Spudger to carefully loosen the two small, rotatable connectors attached to the wireless adapter. They’re tiny, but don’t worry, you’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
– Grab your trusty Phillips #1 screwdriver and take out those two 3.0 mm Philips head screws holding the adapter in place.
Tools Used
Step 17
– Gently slide the adapter out to free it from its snug spot.
Step 18
– Grab the wide end of your trusty Spudger and gently pop off the rotatable connector for the 3G antenna, which is nestled just below the rear-facing camera. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
As you move to the next step, remember to give the motherboard some love—don’t squeeze too hard or risk scratching it!
– Grab those angled tweezers and gently unplug the red-wired cable from the beige connector right across from the docking port. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 20
The charging port might have some tape holding it from underneath, so you might need to use a bit of muscle to get it out.
– Time to get that charging port out! Use those handy angled tweezers to gently pry it loose and remove it.
Tools Used
Step 21
When you’re tackling this step, make sure to go easy and avoid putting too much pressure or scratching up the motherboard—gentle hands win the day!
– Grab those tweezers and carefully pop the white touchscreen connector with its multi-colored wires out of the black port—just a smidge below the power buttons on the motherboard. Take it slow, and you’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the locking mechanism for the wide, white port for the slender, orange-brown touchscreen cable just above the charging port.
– Carefully remove the touchscreen board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 23
Take it easy here! Just a gentle touch is all you need—no need to squeeze like you’re juicing an orange or to scratch that motherboard!
– Grab those angled tweezers and carefully unhook the two microphone connectors located just above the orange-brown touchscreen connector, right next to the battery space. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 24
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently flip up the little locking mechanism that guards the white front camera port right above the rear-facing camera. It’s like giving it a friendly nudge!
– Now, it’s time to disconnect the camera cable from the motherboard. Just give it a nice, careful pull and you’re on your way!
Step 25
– Grab your Phillips #1 screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.0 mm Phillips head screws that are keeping the motherboard secure. Nice and steady!
Tools Used
Step 26
– Carefully detach the motherboard and set it aside, like a pro.
Step 27
– Gently pop out the two microphones located in the center of the side that’s opposite the docking port. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– Let’s get started! Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to carefully remove the 3.0 mm Phillips head screw that’s holding the thin metal plate in place near the Micro-HDMI port.
– Next, grab your trusty Phillips #1 screwdriver again and remove the 4.0 mm Phillips head screw located near the orange-brown touchscreen cable. You’re making great progress!
Tools Used
Step 29
– Gently lift those wires off the delicate metal plate.
Step 30
– Take off that metal plate like a pro! It’s just waiting to be removed.
Step 31
The antennae in this step are stuck down with some trusty adhesive.
– Take off the three antennae located on the shorter sides of your device. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Gently slide the Jimmy between the display and the glass to break that stubborn glue seal.
– Run the Jimmy all the way around the device, giving it a little love as you go.
Tools Used
Step 33
– Keep working that Jimmy around the device until the glue says goodbye to the display!
– Now it’s time to carefully remove the display.
Tools Used
Step 34
– You did it! To put everything back together, just follow these steps in reverse. If you need help or have any questions, don’t worry, you can always schedule a repair.
– Not quite done yet? No worries, just head back and try again.
–
Tools Used
Success!
