Apple Watch Series 2 Teardown

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 16 Steps

Our iPhone 7 Plus is still on the chopping block, but we can’t resist taking a peek at the Apple Watch Series 2. At first glance, the Series 2 appears almost identical to the newly named “Series 1″—but what’s cooking under the hood? With exciting features like built-in GPS, waterproofing, and a plethora of new bands and cases, this stylish gadget was meant for some serious dissection. Let’s find out if this “ultimate device for a healthy life” can hold its own when it comes to repairability. If you missed our deep dive into the “best, most advanced iPhone ever”, make sure to check out our iPhone 7 Plus teardown and keep up with the excitement! Ready to jump in? Stay updated with the latest repair news by connecting with us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter.

Step 1

– Our watches just keep getting smarter! Let’s check out what the latest Apple wrist gadgets bring to the table:

– Second-gen OLED Retina display with Force Touch

– Custom-built Apple S2 SiP (System in Package)

– Built-in GPS + NFC + Wi-Fi 802.11b/g/n 2.4 GHz + Bluetooth 4.0

– Accelerometer, gyroscope, heart rate sensor, microphone, speaker, and ambient light sensor

– Water-resistant up to 50 meters

– WatchOS 3

Step 2

– When Series 2 rolled out, the original Apple Watch got a glow-up and a new name: Series 1, now rocking a speedy dual-core processor.

– Flip over the Series 2 and you’ll spot those classic four optical lenses, guarding the LEDs and photodiodes like a tiny superhero squad.

Step 3

– Armed with what we learned from the original Apple Watch and our trusty iOpener, we’re set to take on that sticky adhesive and lift the screen.

– A knife, a pick, and a dash of determination later, we’re inside!

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerApple Watch Series 2 Teardown

Step 4

– Externally, the Series 2 looks pretty similar to its older sibling—just a sleek upgrade. But once you pop it open, you’ll notice a bunch of ZIF connectors taking the place of those clunky press connectors from the past. Inside, tucked away on the back of the display, there’s a bunch of control hardware doing its thing: the Apple 343S00092, 20211CP TD1628A, and an NXP 67V04 NFC Controller (the same one found in the iPhone 7 Plus). Take your time and handle everything carefully—if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 5

– Gently slide the remaining band away from the watch case to reveal the battery. Just like the battery bracket in its cellular-capable sibling, this part is secured with a tricky tri-point screw. Luckily, our 64-bit driver kit has the right tools for the job. With a quick flick of your spudger, the watch is now powerless and ready for the next step. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 6

– Turns out, if something looks a little too easy, there’s probably a twist waiting for you.

– The battery in the Series 2 Apple Watch is stuck down with enough sticky stuff to patch up a tablet, so roll up those sleeves.

– No worries, though—we’re not scared of a little mess. Just keep poking, peeling, and pulling at that stubborn adhesive. Take your time, keep at it, and you’ll have the battery out and ready to go.

Step 7

– Now that we’ve peeled off the glue from the back of the battery, check out these specs: 3.77 V and 273 mAh, adding up to a strong 1.03 Whr of juice.

– According to Apple, the Series 2 delivers the same 18-hour battery life as the original—so that built-in GPS definitely likes to party with your power supply.

Step 8

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry around the edge of the watch to uncover a Force Touch sensor and gasket, similar to the original model’s setup.

– Unlike last year’s version, you’ll find a single integrated circuit tucked away on the Force Touch gasket:

– It’s the Analog Devices AD7149 Capacitance Sensor Controller, quietly doing its thing.

Step 9

– Next up on the disassembly lineup is the Taptic Engine. It’s a bit bigger than the rest, so let’s give it the attention it deserves.

– The Taptic Engine is Apple’s version of a linear resonant actuator. Instead of spinning in circles like a traditional motor, it moves in a straight line. This linear motion creates the signature haptic feedback you feel when you interact with your device.

Step 10

– Now that the Taptic Engine is out of the way, let’s take a look at the antenna module, tucked away neatly at the top of the watch.

– Alright, enough of the peeking—time to grab those tweezers and handle what’s left of this wearable.

Step 11

– Nestled on the outer edge, you’ll uncover a nifty cable assembly—it’s where the magic happens for the microphone and speaker.

– The Apple Watch Series 2 is all about making waves while staying dry. To do this, it’s packed with gaskets and o-rings galore.

– So, how well do these little heroes keep the water out? The Apple Watch Series 2 can brave depths of up to 50 meters, thanks to ISO standard 22810:2010. It’s perfect for a splash in the pool, but be cautious during certain activities!

Step 12

– Thinking about ingress protection? This speaker is built to handle splashes and water exposure, rather than just fighting it off. It’s designed to let water in, then vibrate to push out any excess, so you can keep listening without worry.

– Unlike older Apple Watch speakers that would flood when underwater, this module works by filling with water and then vibrating to eject it, helping you keep the sound clear even after getting wet.

Step 13

– Almost there! Just one last thing standing between us and the heart of this device: the ribbon cable assembly. It houses the Home Button and Digital Crown encoder.

– But no teardown is going to stop us now! We power through the assembly and get to the real magic—the heart of this wearable gadget.

– And as per usual, when things get tricky, we whip out the trusty Apple Watch Opening Pick to gently lift the System in Package out of the rear enclosure.

Step 14

– And here it is, the highly anticipated Apple S2 SiP, encased in that not-so-friendly resin enclosure we’ve all heard so much about.

– Up at the top of the SiP, tucked away in the top-left corner, you’ll find a couple of tiny but mighty components:

– Bosch Sensortec BMP280 Barometric Pressure Sensor

– Most likely a revamped version of the STMicroelectronics C451 gyroscope + accelerometer combo that made its debut in the original Apple Watch.

Step 15

– All that’s left to access the final piece is to remove the sensor array from the back cover of the watch. This four-sensor setup includes infrared sensors, visible-light LEDs, and photosensors that keep tabs on your heart rate all day long. Once you’ve taken out the sensor assembly, you’ll notice the inductive charging coil left behind in the cover. It’s probably made by NXP Semiconductor, acting as the front-runner for the analog front end controller. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 16

– And that’s it! With our Apple Watch fully dismantled on the table, it’s time to gather up the bits and hope it’s just as waterproof when we reassemble it. If you hit any snags along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

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