Asus Chromebook C202 Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 11 Steps
Earlier this month, we got our hands on a pair of smartphones that were basically glued together. This time, we’re diving into something that’s actually built with repairs in mind, not just to be tossed out. Enter the Asus Chromebook C202 – a tough, budget-friendly Chromebook made with education in mind and, more importantly, designed for easy repairs. When Asus offered us a test unit to take a closer look, we were all in, ready to see if it lived up to its repair-friendly promise. It might not be the flashiest device around, and we’re not expecting any mind-blowing updates to things like pixel density or power. But we’re really hoping to uncover some cool design tricks that make fixing this thing a breeze. Let’s take it apart and see what’s inside, and remember, if you ever need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Let’s introduce our newest member to the class! The Chromebook C202 by Asus is here, ready to learn alongside us today.
– It’s powered by a dual-core, 1.6 GHz Intel Celeron N3060 processor, which can boost up to 2.48 GHz, paired with Intel HD Graphics 400 to keep things running smoothly.
– Available with 2 GB or 4 GB of RAM to meet your needs.
– It comes with 16 GB of built-in storage, just enough to keep things light and efficient.
– Equipped with HDMI, SD card, and USB 3.0 ports for all your connection needs.
– Runs on Chrome OS, keeping it simple and user-friendly.
– With up to 10 hours of battery life, you can get through the day without worrying about charging.
– The tough candy shell and wraparound rubber bumper ensure it survives the hustle and bustle of daily use.
Step 2
Finally, a warning label that won’t make you feel like your warranty is going up in smoke the moment you crack it open.
– Asus clearly believes in their new Chromebook—so much so that they sent us this unit to test. We dive right in, ready to see what makes it tick.
– We grab our trusty tools and start the job. A rubber cover or two needs to be removed, but apart from that, it’s just your usual Phillips screws holding the chassis in place.
– And just like that, we’re making progress. It’s smooth sailing from here on out.
Step 3
– Time to move on from the screws and grab our trusty sidekick: the Plastic Opening Tool!
– Those sneaky plastic clips around the edge of the spill-proof upper case are keeping it snug in the lower case. A little prying and we’ll set them free. Let’s dive in and see what surprises await us!
– The keyboard and trackpad ribbon cables are like a bridge connecting the upper case to the motherboard, with just enough slack to flip it over and carefully disconnect those ZIF connectors.
– And here comes the trackpad, a usual suspect when it comes to laptop troubles, ready to pop out and join the party for a bit of a makeover!
Step 4
We just pulled off a chunky bracket, and guess what? It’s actually a heat sink! We weren’t expecting that, but here we are. It’s a bit strange to see heat being funneled right into the battery though—batteries and heat aren’t exactly best friends.
It’s the same clever cooling strategy used in the widely-loved Surface Pro 4, keeping things chill and smooth.
– Now that we’ve popped the top off, take a look at the whole interior. It’s like a treasure trove of modular components in here!
– Check out the large interconnect cable with its helpful labels: the side marked ‘IO’ connects to the Input/Output board, while the side labeled ‘MB’? Well, that one probably connects to the motherboard, not Manitoba, Canada… though that would be interesting!
– The I/O board is also home to the power jack, which is a common culprit when things go wrong. But don’t worry, replacing a broken power jack looks as simple as swapping out this small board. Piece of cake!
Step 5
The battery life is right on track at 10 hours. With the C202’s efficient components, we were hoping for just a bit more, but hey, it still gets the job done!
– With only a few bumps in the road, the battery comes out easily. Phillips #1 screws are still the only thing keeping us busy—no weird screws or sticky glue in sight.
– This battery packs a 38 Wh punch, matching the 11″ MacBook Air’s 38.75 Wh. Not too shabby.
– So, whether you’re crunching numbers or exploring the Oregon Trail, you’ve got plenty of juice to keep you going.
Step 6
No complaints here—the absence of sticky adhesives means these parts slide out and pop back in with zero hassle.
– The C202 is built like a set of nesting dolls: everything comes out one after another. First, unplug the I/O board cable, then pop out the heat sink, and finally remove the battery to free up the motherboard.
– Before you close up the lower case, don’t forget the speakers! They’re a dynamic duo, and once the motherboard is out, they’re ready to come along for the ride.
Step 7
– Get ready to explore the guts of this Asus device—it’s got some interesting chips under the hood. First, you’ll find an Intel Celeron N3060 processor built on a 14 nm Braswell architecture, paired with Intel HD Graphics 400 for smooth visuals. The RAM is likely LP-DDR3, with four 1-Gb chips totaling 4 GB, making multitasking a breeze. Storage-wise, there’s a Winbond W25Q64FWSIG serial flash memory and a W25X40CLNIG chip. The keyboard and embedded controller are managed by a SMSC/Microchip MEC1322-LZY ARM Cortex M4-based chip. Audio duties are handled by a Realtek ALC5650 Audio Codec. Power management comes from a Richtek RT5067A and RT8249AGQW dual DC-DC converter. On the reverse side, you’ll spot a SanDisk SDIN9DW4-16G 16 GB eMMC NAND flash for storage, along with an Infineon SLB9655TT1.2 Trusted Platform Module to keep things secure. As you proceed, take your time and follow each step carefully—if you need help at any point, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
Step 8
– Let’s dive into identifying the chips on your device! We’ll start with the Texas Instruments BQ24770 Battery Charge Controller, then move on to the Texas Instruments TPS2546 USB Charging Port Controller. Next up is the Dialog Semiconductor (formerly Silego) SLG7NT4350V LED Driver, which is probably lurking somewhere nearby. Don’t forget the Texas Instruments TSU5611 Micro-USB SP3T Analog Switch — it’s a key player. We’ll also look for the Texas Instruments SN74LVC1G175 D-Type Flip-Flop, and then the dual NOR gate from Texas Instruments, along with the Nexperia (formerly Nexperia) 74LVC1G08 and Toshiba’s TC7SZ08F Single AND Gate. Lastly, watch out for the ON Semiconductor NC7SZ14M5X Inverter with a Schmitt Trigger Input, and the Nexperia (formerly NXP) 74LVC1G04 and Texas Instruments SN74LVC1G04 Single Inverters. Once you’ve identified these components, you’re well on your way to a solid repair. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 9
– IC Identifications, pt. 3 (sensors):
– Texas Instruments TMP432 Temperature Sensor – The trusty temp sensor! It’s there to keep things cool when they need to be.
– Melexis MLX90248 Hall Sensor (likely) – This one’s the sensor that keeps track of magnetic fields. Pretty nifty, right?
Step 10
– Alright, we’re at the final stretch—the display! Don’t worry, C202, we’ve got this. No need to panic, or we might have to send you to the principal’s office.
– Now, here’s where we hit a bit of that linear construction magic—we had to take out the motherboard and I/O board just to free the display.
– Opening up the display itself is a breeze. A couple of Phillips #1 screws behind the covers, a quick pry, and boom! The LCD, camera, microphone, antennas, and hinges are all there, ready for a swap-out.
– Don’t forget the MEMS Microphone!
Step 11
Even simple repairs can throw a curveball without a guide—luckily, Asus has put together a helpful disassembly guide to get you back on track.
– Alright, pencils down, pass your exams forward. Asus Chromebook C202 Repairability Score: 9 out of 10 (10 means it’s a breeze to fix!).
– The design is super intuitive and simple, making disassembly easy and reversible.
– With modular components, many repairs are a breeze — just swap out the part that’s acting up.
– You’ll only need Phillips #1 and #00 screws, so no need for a huge toolbox!
– No adhesives here, and the plastic clips are tough enough to survive a few rounds of reassembly.
– The disassembly process is pretty linear, so you might have to remove a few parts to reach the one that needs replacing. But don’t worry, the battery and ports — the ones that often cause trouble — are front and center.
– Unfortunately, the RAM and flash storage are soldered to the motherboard, so they can’t be replaced or upgraded. But considering the C202’s target audience, that’s probably not a big deal.
