Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Handle the battery blocker with care – it’s a sensitive little thing!
Follow this guide to swap out the right-hand speaker in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi. When disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker, handle everything with care—those battery contacts are fragile and a little slip could cause permanent damage to the logic board. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screws) to avoid shorting the battery or harming delicate circuits.
Step 1
– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give that left edge of your device a cozy two-minute hug.
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Step 2
– As you let that adhesive take its sweet time loosening up, keep an eye on these delicate spots that are a bit touchy when it comes to prying:
– Front camera
– Antennas
– Display cables
Step 3
In the next few steps, we’re going to show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we’ve created to make opening your device a whole lot easier. If you’re not using it, no worries—just skip ahead a few steps to find an alternative method.
Need a little extra guidance on how to use the Anti-Clamp? No problem, you can check out the full instructions right here.
If the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, a little tape can do the trick to give it some traction and keep things steady.
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug backward to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free!
– Nestle your iPad on something soft and steady to keep it nice and level between the suction cups.
– Place the suction cups snugly on the left edge—one up top and one down below, right in the middle.
– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give the top cup a good, firm press to create some suction magic.
Step 4
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place!
– Now, twist that handle like a pro—360 degrees or until those suction cups start to stretch out a bit.
– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re staying in sync. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them up a tad and realign those arms like a boss!
Step 5
Take it easy and only turn halfway at a time. Give it a minute between turns—let the Anti-Clamp do its thing while you relax. Patience is key!
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough, just warm it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise about half a turn.
– Give it about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small gap to work with.
– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try gently heating along the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
– Once the Anti-Clamp has opened a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
– Just skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is in rough shape and has a serious crack, slapping on a layer of clear packing tape can help the suction cup stick better. You could also go for some strong tape to bypass the suction cup altogether. And if you’re really in a bind, a little superglue on the suction cup can work wonders to hold it to the broken screen!
– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it right on the left edge, as close to the border as you can get.
– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to pop open a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick carefully into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to get things moving.
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Step 7
No worries if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug and pull it out. Your LCD screen should be just fine, but keep in mind that you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that’s a bit of a hassle to clean up.
– Pop in a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
– Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.
Step 8
– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, don’t stress—just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that adhesive away like a pro.
Step 9
– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
– Once you’ve got the pick in place at the top-left corner, leave it there to keep the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.
Step 10
– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the top edge of your device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 11
– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental scrapes or smudges. The next steps will help you steer clear of any lens trouble.
– Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to pause just before you get to the front camera.
Step 13
– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
– Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it tight.
– Keep that pick nice and cozy near the right side of the front camera before moving on!
Step 14
– Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it toward the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
– Keep the pick parked in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 15
– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 16
– Give that pick a little twist around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
The display cables are hiding about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Once you’ve slid down about three inches, it’s time to stop. Don’t go any further – the cables are waiting for you right there!
– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad’s right edge. You’re on your way to a successful repair!
Step 18
– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your device. It’s like a spa day for your gadget!
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Step 19
Take it easy when rotating the pick around the corner. Overdoing it could accidentally damage the antenna.
– Gently slide the pick into the bottom-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
– Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner before jumping ahead to the next step.
Step 20
Just a friendly reminder: slide the pick gently toward the home button, not away from it! You wouldn’t want to accidentally give your antenna a little scare.
If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this area again, just pop it out and drop it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
– Slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
– Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
– Leave the pick resting to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be super gentle with that pick! Only insert it up to 1mm to keep your right antenna safe and sound.
– Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.
– Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading towards the bottom-right corner—just let the tip sneak between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Gently slide the pick toward the home button, not away from it, to avoid damaging the antenna. Take it slow, your device will thank you!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick across this section again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy fix!
– Slide the pick back in and carefully glide it toward the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
– Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for two minutes.
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Step 24
Take your time with this step – no need to rush. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, and use a pick to carefully separate all of it. If you feel like you need to reheat, go ahead and do it! No harm in taking it slow.
If you’re running into some resistance, just heat up the edges a bit and gently work your way along them with an opening pick. Slow and steady wins the race!
– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, breaking free the last bits of that stubborn adhesive along the way.
Step 25
– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive on the right side of your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 26
– With the digitizer supported, gently slide an opening pick between the display cables to loosen up the last bit of adhesive.
Step 27
– Once you’ve peeled off all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like you’re reading a book, and let it rest comfortably next to the iPad.
– As you put everything back together, be sure to tidy up the leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer, if you’re reusing it—using a little isopropyl alcohol. Swap in new adhesive with our handy strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
– When you’re reassembling the device, take a moment to check the display cables. Make sure they’re tucked neatly under the LCD screen so nothing gets snagged or damaged.
Step 28
– Peel off any tape hiding those pesky LCD screws. Time to get them exposed and ready for action!
Step 29
– Unscrew the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. Let’s get those screws out like a pro!
Step 30
Don’t try to yank the LCD completely off just yet. It’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Gently lift it from the front-facing camera end first.
Take it slow and keep an eye on those LCD cables as you carefully flip the display over. Patience is key!
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean, lint-free surface. You got this!
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the LCD to loosen it just enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Heads up: there might be some sticky glue around the screw holes that you’ll need to carefully slice through with a knife.
– Now, flip the iPad’s LCD like turning a page in a book—lift near the camera and swing it over the home button side of the back case.
– Place the LCD face down so you can easily get to the display cables.
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Step 31
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Keep them handy as you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
To avoid any accidental short circuits, it’s a good idea to use a battery isolation pick to safely disconnect the battery.
Don’t force the battery blocker underneath the connector. If it’s giving you a hard time, try slipping a playing card in to safely disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide smoothly under the logic board with no hiccups. Once it’s in, it should sit at about a 15-degree angle, ready to do its job.
– Let’s kick things off by unscrewing that lone 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the battery connector tight to the logic board.
– Now, slide that nifty battery blocker in underneath the logic board’s battery connector at a smooth 35-degree angle.
– Keep that battery blocker in place while you continue your repair journey!
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Step 33
– Time to get to work! First, go ahead and take out those three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!
Step 34
The display cable connector is snugly attached to the bottom of the bracket, so keep the spudger’s journey gentle. Don’t go too deep, or you might accidentally harm the connector. A little caution goes a long way!
– Take your spudger and gently nudge the display cable bracket up from the logic board. Be careful—no need to rush, just a smooth lift to get it off.
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Step 35
– Carefully lift off the LCD screen to move on to the next step!
Step 36
– Gently peel off any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector. You’re almost there!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to flip that little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. You’ve got this!
– Now, with care and confidence, pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
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Step 38
Heads up! When prying, be sure to focus only on the connectors themselves—avoid poking around the logic board socket to keep your iPad safe and sound.
– Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently lift those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their cozy sockets. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, double-check that those connectors are snugly fit in their sockets; otherwise, you might end up with some display shenanigans.
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Step 39
– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive holding it to the back case—take it slow and steady!
Step 40
The insulation is a sneaky little detail that you won’t spot just by looking around, and it’s not the same as those foam dust barrier strips you often see on many iPads.
– Start by carefully taking off the front panel assembly. It’s like peeling a banana, but for your device!
– If your snazzy new display starts acting a little quirky with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t fret! You can fix it by sticking a very thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Most of our panels come prepped with the right insulation, so you shouldn’t need to add any extra tape.
– Without that insulation, those sensitive areas of the digitizer might get a little too cozy with other components, leading to touch input hiccups. Let’s keep things grounded!
Step 41
– Slide a spudger gently under the antenna cable near the edge of the iPad and give it a little lift to unplug the antenna cable connector.
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Step 42
– You’ll find two big strips of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, holding it snug against the rear case.
– Carefully lift the tape away from the rear case.
– As you peel the tape up, keep it stuck to the antenna cable—that way, putting it back together later will be a breeze.
Step 43
The antenna cable is held in place on the speaker by a tiny metal bracket. This bracket is permanently crimped to the antenna and stuck firmly to the speaker’s casing, keeping everything snug and secure.
– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket—take your time, no need to rush!
– Move the pick towards the home button, cutting through the adhesive as you go. You’ll feel it give way.
– Now, push the bracket away from the speaker, making sure it’s clear of any tape underneath. You’ve got this!
Step 44
– Grab your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver and get ready to unscrew the right antenna!
– Start by removing the single 2.3 mm screw.
– Then, take out the two 1.4 mm screws holding it in place.
Step 45
– Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly—just like tucking in a cozy blanket!
– Now, give that spudger a little slide towards the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna tight. You’re doing great!
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Step 46
– Carefully detach the right antenna from your iPad to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 47
– Slide a spudger underneath the left antenna cable and gently lift it upwards to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
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Step 48
– Five pieces of tape are holding down the left antenna cable over the right speaker cable connector—time to gently untangle this tape situation.
– Carefully peel the tape away from the rear case without rushing it.
– Fold the antenna cable aside so it’s out of your way for the next steps.
Step 49
A bend in the speaker cable makes lifting the tape from the end a bit tricky.
Handle your tweezers with care—grab and peel just the tape, not the cable underneath.
– Grab the tape just below the speaker and gently peel it away from the edge of the case. Take it slow and steady – no rush here!
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Step 50
– Gently peel back the tape towards the home button to reveal the hidden speaker cable connector.
Step 51
– Grab a spudger and use its sharp point to lift the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
– Gently slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Nice and smooth!
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Step 52
– Peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker snug against the back case.
Step 53
– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the back of the case. Take your time and be careful, you’ve got this!
Step 54
– Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the speaker to the rear case—time to loosen that little guy and get things moving!
Step 55
– Gently wedge a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove near the corner of the speaker housing.
– Now, carefully pull the speaker downward, away from the case’s corner. Easy, right?
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Step 56
– Now that you’ve tackled the reassembly, just retrace your steps and put everything back together like a pro!
– Remember, if you hit a snag or need a little extra help, feel free to schedule a repair!
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Success!
