Author: Ralph Harris

With over 20 years of experience in electronics repair and technical writing, this background reflects both expertise and dedication in the field. Credentials include a Bachelor’s degree in Computer Science from USM, more than 500 Apple repair certifications, and a Wise Level 2 Technician certification, spanning across the full spectrum of device and cell phone repair. More than 2000+ repair guides have been published on the company site, salvationrepair.com, with a focus on sustainability and reusability enabling even lay-men to repair devices that would have otherwise ended up at the county landfill.

How to Replace the Battery of a Toshiba Excite 7

Posted on September 14, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 7 Steps

Step 1

How to Replace the Battery of a Toshiba Excite 7

– Take off the back cover.

– Slide your fingernail or a flat tool gently under the edge of the cover’s seal. Begin at the top right corner, just above the front-facing camera—this spot is your device’s ‘weak point’.

– Once you pop open the first clip, carefully run your tool around the edge of the cover until it comes free. You’ll hear the clips snapping open as you go.

Step 2

– Peel off any black tape from the device carefully.

– Hold on to that tape, you’ll want to stick it back on once you’re all done.

Step 3

Right in the center of your device, you’ll spot the battery looking like a sleek black rectangle. It’s hooked up with two wiring harnesses — one hanging out just above it and another chilling to the right.

– Carefully unplug the battery wires to disconnect the power.

Step 4

– Remove the screws holding the battery in place and set them aside safely.

– There are 5 screws securing the battery — keep track of all of them!

Step 5

There’s a single clip holding the battery in place. You’ll find it at the bottom right corner of the battery, just above the right speaker. Heads up: the speakers and wires aren’t attached to the battery, so they might come loose—handle with care!

– Gently push the clip back and then lift the battery out like a pro.

Step 6

– Gently detach the speakers from the battery. These are the plastic parts covered with a mesh screen.

– Notice that the wires tuck neatly under a few clips around the bottom and left sides of the battery.

– Carefully ease the wires free from their clips. The wiring harness and speakers should come off the battery smoothly. Make sure all wires are fully released from their clips.

Step 7

– Pop in the fresh battery, get those speakers back in place, and then simply reverse the first six steps. You’ve got this!

Success!

Tivax MiTraveler 10Q-8 Rear Case Replacement

Posted on September 14, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 5 Steps

In this step, we’re diving into the device to pop off the back plate and get to the parts that need some TLC! Grab your trusty PH000 Phillips head screwdriver and a plastic opening tool to make this task a breeze. Let’s get started on this repair journey together!

Step 1

Tivax MiTraveler 10Q-8 Rear Case Replacement

– Flip your device over so the screen is facing down, and give that charging port cover on the left side a little slide to the side and off. You’re doing great!

Step 2

– Grab your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver and carefully take out the 2.9 mm screw from the charging port. Easy does it!

Step 3

Ensure the lip of the plastic opening tool is pointing upwards.

– To carefully detach the back plate, slide the plastic opening tool between the back plate and front plate, beginning at the headphone jack.

Step 4

Don’t be alarmed if you hear some popping noises while working on the device—it’s totally normal!

– Gently glide the plastic opening tool around the device, applying a little pressure to pop the back plate free from its clips.

Step 5

– After you’ve skillfully navigated the entire device with your trusty plastic opening tool, the back plate will pop right off, freeing it from the rest of the gadget. Way to go!

Success!

To put your device back together, just slide the back plate into position and press down until you hear a few satisfying clicks. You’re almost there! If anything feels tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand.

iPad 6 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement

Posted on September 14, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 108 Steps

Handle the battery blocker with care – it’s a delicate dance!

Ready to replace the battery in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi? First, if you notice that your battery is swollen, handle it with care! When using a battery blocker to isolate the battery, be extra cautious. The contacts are fragile, and a little slip could cause irreversible damage to the logic board. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, make sure to avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for removing screws) to keep everything running smoothly and to avoid shorting the battery or messing with sensitive components. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let the heat work its magic!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– While you’re waiting for the adhesive to loosen, be careful around these sensitive areas that don’t like to be pried on:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

Step 3

The next three steps showcase the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little gadget we’ve cooked up to make your opening adventure a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to jump ahead three steps for an alternative approach.

Need a hand with using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this handy guide.

If your iPad’s surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a grip, just slap on some tape to create a little more traction.

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Prop up your iPad with something underneath so it sits evenly between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups around the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top suction cup to get a good grip.

Step 4

– Give that blue handle a little tug forward to lock those arms in place.

– Now, twist that handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you see those cups start to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they’re still in sync. If they start dancing out of line, just loosen them up a tad and gently get those arms back on track.

Step 5

Take it easy! Only twist about half a turn at a time, and give it a minute to breathe between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp and the magic of time do their thing for you.

Want to know how to use a hair dryer like a pro? Check out this guide for all the steps you need!

If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough room to work, just add a bit more heat and twist the handle clockwise by half a turn. That should do the trick!

– Take a breather for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice little opening for you.

– If your screen seems a bit shy and isn’t warming up enough, feel free to give it some love with a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– When the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and there’s a decent gap, gently slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step.

Step 6

Got a seriously cracked screen? Slap on a layer of clear packing tape to give that suction cup something to grip onto. No tape? No problem! Use some strong adhesive tape instead to get the job done. And if all else fails, a dab of superglue can stick the suction cup right to the broken screen. Easy peasy!

– When the screen feels nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen—aim for the closest edge you can get.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to open up a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap you just made, and carefully work your way around.

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 7

No sweat if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just slide it right out. The LCD should stay safe, but leaving adhesive behind can be a sticky mess to clean later.

– Pop in a second opening pick where you’ve created that gap.

– Gently slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner, breaking the adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick snug in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 8

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, simply ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to help continue separating the sticky stuff.

Step 9

– Gently slide the opening pick into the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. Easy does it!

– Once the pick is in place, leave it there to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 10

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it right on the top edge of your device, letting it chill there for two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 11

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen the adhesive without stressing the device.

Step 12

Steer clear of sliding the pick over the front camera; it’s a surefire way to mess up that lens! Follow the upcoming steps to keep everything safe and sound.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause just shy of the front camera’s territory.

Step 13

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick right above the front camera to break free that adhesive grip.

– Keep the pick hanging out near the right side of the front camera before you move on. You’ve got this!

Step 14

– Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it up towards the top-right corner to fully free up that stubborn top adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together while you work.

Step 15

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device. It’s like a spa day for your gadget!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 16

– Gently maneuver the pick around the top-right corner of your device to carefully break the adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

Step 17

The display cables are hanging out around the midway point of the iPad. Once you slide down about three inches from the bottom, it’s time to stop and take a breather!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the heart of the iPad’s right edge. You’re on your way!

Step 18

– Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. This will soften things up and make the next step a breeze!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 19

Be careful not to fully twist the pick around the corner; you wouldn’t want to accidentally harm the antenna.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break free from that sticky adhesive grip.

– Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner before jumping to the next step.

Step 20

Slide the pick gently toward the home button, and steer clear of pushing it away. We don’t want to accidentally mess with the antenna, right?

If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently glide the pick past the antenna, stopping just before you reach the home button.

– Pause with the pick resting to the left of the home button before moving on.

Step 21

Be sure to only slide that pick in a max of 1 mm—let’s keep that right antenna safe and sound!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the little gap you’ve just made. You’re doing great!

– Carefully maneuver the pick beneath the home button, gliding it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame – keep it cozy!

Step 22

Slide the pick gently towards the home button, but avoid going the other way to steer clear of damaging the antenna. We believe in you, just take it slow!

If you need to slide the pick over this area again, just take it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You’ve got this!

– Slide the pick back in and glide it gently towards the home button to fully break through the bottom adhesive.

– Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.

Step 23

– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the right edge of the device for about two minutes. Give it some time to work its magic and loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

Take your time with this step—go slow and steady. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to handle, and carefully separate all of it with a pick. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to pause and reheat before moving on.

If you’re feeling a bit of a workout while prying, just reheat those edges and glide along with your trusty opening pick.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to release the last bit of adhesive. You’ve got this!

Step 25

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!

Step 26

– While holding the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last of that pesky adhesive.

Step 27

– After you’ve successfully separated all that stubborn adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to the iPad. Nice and easy!

– As you gear up for reassembly, take a moment to tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you’re reusing it. Then, stick on some fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.

– Keep an eye on those display cables while you’re putting the device back together. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. You’ve got this!

Step 28

– Carefully peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to the good stuff.

Step 29

– Unscrew the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. Keep them safe!

Step 30

Don’t try to yank the LCD off completely! It’s still holding onto the iPad by a few cables around the home button. Focus on lifting it carefully from the front-facing camera side.

Take it easy and watch out for the LCD cables as you gently flip the display over. A little patience goes a long way here!

Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.

– Use the flat side of your spudger to gently lift the LCD just enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Be mindful of any sticky glue around the screw holes—you might need to carefully slice through it with a knife.

– Next, flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book. Start by lifting near the camera, and then slowly flip it over towards the home button side of the rear case.

– Place the LCD face down to give yourself easy access to the display cables.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 31

Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like beneath the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully unplug the battery.

Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll want to slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.

Step 32

To keep things safe and avoid any short circuits, grab a battery isolation pick to gently disconnect the battery.

Be careful not to force the battery blocker under the connector. If it’s giving you trouble, try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead. It works like a charm!

The battery blocker or playing card should slide smoothly under the logic board, without any resistance. Once it’s in, aim for a 15-degree angle for a snug fit.

– Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector to the logic board.

– Carefully slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working.

Tools Used

Battery Blocker

Step 33

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

Step 34

Be careful not to shove the spudger too deep under the bracket, as the display cable connector is glued down there. You wouldn’t want to accidentally give it a bad day!

– Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the display cable bracket and pop it straight up off the logic board like a pro.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 35

– Time to say goodbye to that LCD! Carefully detach it from the device and set it aside. You’re doing great!

Step 36

– Carefully peel away any tape that’s hiding the home button ribbon cable connector.

Step 37

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently nudge that tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. You got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 38

Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: when you’re prying things apart, focus on the connectors themselves and steer clear of the socket on the logic board. Let’s keep your iPad safe and sound!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up out of their sockets.

– When putting everything back together, double-check that these connectors are fully and snugly seated in their sockets to avoid any pesky display problems.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 39

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the adhesive that’s sticking it to the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 40

The insulation is sneaky—it’s invisible to the naked eye and not to be confused with the foam dust barrier strips you often see on iPads.

– First up, let’s get that front panel assembly off! Easy peasy.

– Now, if your shiny new display is acting a bit quirky with those pesky ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t worry! You can fix it by adding a super thin layer of insulating tape—like Kapton tape—in the highlighted spots on the back of that panel. Good news: Salvation Repair panels come prepped with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add anything extra.

– Just a heads up: if those areas of the digitizer don’t have the right insulation, they might accidentally connect with other components and cause some touch input mayhem. Let’s keep things running smoothly!

Step 41

– Carefully slide a spudger under the antenna cable near the iPad’s edge and gently lift it up to unplug the antenna cable connector.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 42

– You’ll find two big strips of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, holding it snug against the rear case.

– Carefully lift the tape up from the rear case.

– As you peel the tape, keep it stuck to the antenna cable—that way, putting it back together will be a breeze.

Step 43

The antenna cable is securely attached to the speaker using a small metal bracket. This bracket is tightly clamped onto the antenna and sticks to the speaker enclosure for a solid hold.

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.

– Move the pick toward the home button to carefully slice through the adhesive.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it’s free from the tape underneath.

Step 44

– Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and remove these screws holding down the right antenna:

– One 2.3 mm screw

– Two 1.4 mm screws

Step 45

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and speaker assembly like you’re sneaking into a secret club.

– Carefully glide the spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding that antenna in place.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 46

– Gently pop off the right antenna from the iPad to keep things moving!

Step 47

– Slide a spudger beneath the left antenna cable and gently lift it up to unplug the antenna cable connector.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 48

– You’ll notice five little pieces of tape snugly wrapped around the left antenna cable, giving a cozy hug to the right speaker cable connector. Time to break that tape party!

– Gently peel that tape away from the rear case—like you’re unwrapping a gift!

– Now, let’s fold that antenna cable out of the way so we can keep progressing on our repair adventure.

Step 49

If the speaker cable is bent, it can be tricky to lift the tape from the end. Keep that in mind while you work!

Handle your tweezers with care — focus on just grabbing and peeling the tape, and avoid snagging the cable underneath.

– Instead, hold onto the tape just below the speaker and gently peel it down, away from the edge of the case.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 50

– Gently peel back the tape towards the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector. You’ve got this!

Step 51

– Gently use the pointy end of your trusty spudger to lift the little flap holding the right speaker cable in place.

– Carefully slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector like a pro.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 52

– Peel away that tape that’s keeping the speaker snug against the rear case. It’s time to let it breathe!

Step 53

– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the back of the case, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.

Step 54

– Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the speaker onto the rear case. Keep it safe!

Step 55

– Slide your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.

– Gently pull the speaker down and away from that corner of the case.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 56

– Grab a spudger and gently wiggle the speaker out from beneath the edge of the rear case.

– Carefully lift the right speaker away from the iPad.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 57

– Time to get your screwdriver out! Start by unscrewing the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding down the upper component cable bracket. You’ve got this!

Step 58

If you’re rocking the Wi-Fi/Cellular version, your iPad might look a tad different. Just a heads up, you’ll need to take out two extra screws to get to those sneaky components hiding under this bracket.

– Take off that upper component cable bracket like a pro!

Step 59

– There are two pieces of tape still holding down the left antenna cable to the rear case.

– Gently peel the tape off from the rear case.

Step 60

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket—like sneaking into a VIP lounge.

– Carefully glide the pick toward the home button to slice through the adhesive holding things down.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it’s free from the tape hiding underneath.

Step 61

– Time to break out your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver! Let’s get those screws out of the way:

– Unscrew two of those tiny 1.4 mm screws – they’re the little guys.

– And don’t forget to tackle that single 2.3 mm screw – it’s a bit bigger, but you’ve got this!

Step 62

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger in between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

– Now, give that spudger a little nudge toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive keeping the antenna nice and cozy.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 63

– Take off the left antenna from your iPad, just like peeling a banana. It’s a simple step, and you’re doing great!

Step 64

– Peel back the tape that’s keeping the left speaker cable connector under wraps.

Step 65

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 66

– Gently slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector—nice and easy does it!

Step 67

– Carefully peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker stuck to the rear case.

Step 68

– Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the speaker in place on the back case. Keep it safe!

Step 69

– Carefully lift the left speaker ribbon cable upward so it stays out of the way when sliding the speaker enclosure out.

Step 70

– Slide your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right near the rear case corner. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the speaker down and away from that corner of the case. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 71

– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully wiggle the speaker out from under the rear case edge.

– Gently lift the left speaker away from the iPad.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 72

Gently pry up just the connector—leave the socket alone, it’s not a fan of roughhousing.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to carefully disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Next, just fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way, making sure it’s nice and cozy.

– Keep in mind, there’s a little bit of conductive adhesive hanging out between those shiny gold cable contacts. So, when you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to apply some pressure to help them stick together again.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 73

Lift gently on the connector only—avoid tugging on the socket itself to keep things happy!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently detach the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Now, just fold that rear-facing camera cable out of the way like a pro. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 74

Gently lift the connector— steer clear of the socket itself!

On newer iPads, there’s a little tape loop attaching this connector to its socket on the logic board. You’ll need to carefully snip this tape to unplug the headphone jack. Keep it cool—you’ve got this!

– Gently pry up the headphone jack connector from the logic board using the flat end of your spudger.

– Carefully flip the headphone jack cable aside to keep it out of your way.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 75

Carefully pry up just on the connector—leave the socket itself alone!

– Gently pry the microphone cable connector off the logic board using the flat end of your trusty spudger.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 76

– Peel away any tape that’s hiding the upper button assembly cable connector. You’ve got this!

Step 77

– Take the pointy tip of your spudger and gently flip up the little retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector. Easy does it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 78

– Gently slide the upper button assembly cable straight out from its ZIF connector like a pro unplugging a charger!

Step 79

To spot those screws, hold your iPad upright and take a peek down at the Lightning port.

– Unscrew those two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding down the Lightning port. You’ve got this!

Step 80

Next up, it’s time to bring the heat! Grab your trusty iOpener and apply it to the back of your iPad. This will help loosen up that sticky adhesive keeping the logic board snug as a bug.

As you reheat and position the iOpener in the suggested spots, make sure to give it at least a minute in each location. This way, the adhesive can get nice and soft, ready for the next step!

– The adhesive comes as six strips of black foam tape—keep this step handy while you gently heat and pry, so you know exactly where each piece lives.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 81

It’s totally fine if you need some extra time, but if you leave your iOpener on the rear case for too long, just give it a quick reheat and reapply it. Simple as that!

– Set a warm iOpener over the back camera side of the iPad and let it chill there for at least a minute to loosen up that stubborn adhesive hiding under the rear case.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 82

As you dive into the next few steps, when you’re prying away the adhesive holding the logic board snug, remember to start off gently to check if the adhesive has decided to loosen up. If it’s still playing hard to get, give your iOpener a little reheat and place it back on the rear case for some extra warmth.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, right between the front-facing camera and the battery.

– Ease the pick forward toward the front-facing camera connector, and pause when you hit the bend in the logic board.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 83

– Gently slide an opening pick underneath the logic board, starting from the front-facing camera area and moving toward the rear-facing camera.

Step 84

Give the iOpener a little time-out! Let it chill for at least a minute to help soften that adhesive lurking beneath the rear case.

– Warm up an iOpener and set it along the bottom edge of your iPad to get things cozy.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 85

The Lightning connector cable is glued down to the case with some adhesive. To separate it, gently slide an opening pick between the cable and the case. Take care not to nick or slice the Lightning connector cable while you work.

– Carefully slip an opening pick under the Lightning cable right where it connects to the logic board.

– Gently slide the pick down and guide it around the cable’s bend.

Step 86

Take it slow and steady! If your opening pick isn’t sliding in like butter, warm it up a bit more and give it another go. Pushing too hard might cause you to slip and cut the Lightning connector cable, and that’s a no-go.

– Keep on sliding that opening pick right under the cable, but make sure to stop before it bends towards the Lightning connector. You’ve got this!

Step 87

– Gently slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive holding that cable in place.

Step 88

– Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its spot in the rear case—easy does it!

Step 89

Give the iOpener at least a minute to work its magic and loosen up that adhesive on the back case.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the left side of the rear case, right where the logic board is sticking around. Let’s get that case cozy!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 90

– Slip a plastic opening tool into the rectangular gap near the top of the logic board, then gently pry it up away from the rear case.

– Keep the tool tucked under the logic board and carefully slide it down the gap to loosen the upper edge from the adhesive holding it in place.

Step 91

Gently lift the end of the logic board. If you hit any serious resistance, take a step back, stop prying, and give the iOpener another go. Patience is key!

– Gently lift the logic board from the lower edge of the rectangular gap, just by the EMI shield. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 92

Heads up! Be super careful not to slice into the battery with your opening pick — a punctured battery is no joke. If things get stuck, just warm it up again with the iOpener and try once more.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, finding a cozy spot between it and the battery.

– Carefully glide that pick from the base towards the center of the logic board to break free the adhesive holding it in place.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 93

– Gently slide the pick along the entire length of the logic board.

– After the adhesive is sliced through, carefully lift the battery side of the logic board up and away from the rear case.

Step 94

– Gently lift the logic board from the edge closest to the battery, making sure to slide an opening pick against the far edge of the logic board when you have enough space.

– Carefully slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the outer edge of the logic board stuck to the rear case.

Step 95

– Gently take out the logic board from the iPad.

Step 96

Heads up: don’t let the iOpener get too toasty! Give it at least two minutes to cool down before warming it up again, and never zap it in the microwave for more than 30 seconds.

These steps guide you through using heat to loosen up the glue holding the battery in place. If you want to play it safer, try slipping a solvent like adhesive remover between the battery and the back case to gently break down the glue.

Heads up: the iOpener might lose its warmth between uses—if it cools off, just pop it back in the microwave for another 30 seconds before moving on.

– Heat up the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get things warm and ready.

– Set the warm iOpener right in the middle of the iPad’s back and chill for 90 seconds to soften that stubborn battery glue.

– Slide the iOpener over to the right side, steering clear of the rear camera, and let it hang out for another 90 seconds.

– Finally, move the iOpener to the right edge of the iPad and give it one more 90-second session to finish softening.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 97

As you dive into this process, you’ll be sliding some nifty plastic cards between the battery and the rear case of your iPad, working to gently separate the adhesive that’s holding the battery in place. Remember to keep those cards nice and flat to avoid bending the battery—nobody wants a damaged battery releasing any unwanted surprises!

If you’re feeling some stubborn resistance, no worries! Give your iOpener a quick reheat and try again. That extra heat will help the adhesive loosen up, making things smoother for the next step.

– Slide a plastic card into the lower battery cell, starting from the lower right-hand corner. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Step 98

– With the card inserted about halfway, gently slide it towards the top of the iPad, but make sure to stop just before reaching the battery contact post. Keep it smooth and steady!

Step 99

– Gently lift the card up just enough to clear the battery contact mounting post on the rear case.

– Carefully slide the card starting from the middle of the battery cells over to the upper right corner of the battery.

Step 100

– Slide a second plastic card about halfway under the left battery cell to keep it from sticking back when you pop the iOpener back on.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 101

– Set an iOpener on the right side of the battery, opposite the cards, to help soften the adhesive and make it easier to lift.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 102

– Gently glide that card around the lower right corner of the battery, making sure to give it a little love as you go!

Step 103

– Gently glide that trusty plastic card down to the lower left corner of the battery like you’re sliding into home base!

Step 104

– Gently nudge that card further in, giving a little help to break up the adhesive that’s keeping the battery snug as a bug.

– Slide the plastic card under the lower left corner of the battery like you’re tucking it into bed.

Step 105

Take extra care as you glide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to keep them safe and sound.

– Gently glide the card around the top right corner of the battery like you’re giving it a friendly nudge.

Step 106

Carefully slide the card under the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to keep them safe and sound—no snips allowed!

– Gently nudge that plastic card towards the upper left corner of the battery and watch it work its magic!

Step 107

– Push the card in a bit more to slice through as much of the sticky battery glue as possible.

– Slide the plastic card under the top left corner of the battery.

Step 108

– Hold onto both cards like a pro and give them a twist to pop that battery off the back case.

– Carefully lift the battery out from the rear case.

Success!

Now, simply reverse the steps to put your device back together. You’ve got this! If you find yourself stuck at any point, remember, you can always schedule a repair.

Sprout Channel Cubby Digitizer Replacement

Posted on September 14, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 9 Steps

If your screen is cracked but still shows video, it’s time to swap out the digitizer (that’s the cover glass). Both the screen and digitizer are super delicate, so handle them with extra care to avoid any further mishaps.

Step 1

Sprout Channel Cubby Digitizer Replacement

Starting at the corners makes the whole process way smoother.

– Grab an opening tool and carefully press in to pop loose the sixteen tiny plastic clips hugging the case edges. As each clip lets go, gently work your way around, easing the case apart bit by bit.

Step 2

– After opening, gently peel back the black electrical tape wrapped around the digitizer—think of it like carefully unwrapping a tiny tech present!

Step 3

– Carefully lift the white plastic clasp to release the electrical strip—easy does it!

Step 4

– Loosen and remove the five screws that are holding the motherboard in place.

Step 5

– Now that you’ve successfully removed all five screws, it’s time to gently lift the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Step 6

You can do this with the battery still connected, but it’s a bit smoother if you unplug it first.

– Time to unscrew! Go ahead and take out those last four screws like a pro.

Step 7

Removing the screen can be a delicate operation, so take your time and stay patient. A nylon spudger is your best buddy for this task, helping you get the job done safely.

– Take off that metal sheet hiding the screen and digitizer. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 8

– Take a moment to locate all the little white pegs hugging the edge of the plastic. You’ll want to pop them all out so you can free that white front face. Let’s get to it!

Step 9

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and you’ll be good to go!

Success!

To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. You’ve got this! If it gets tricky, feel free to schedule a repair for a helping hand.

iPad 5 Teardown

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 10 Steps

The iPad team took inspiration from the iPhone SE and released a tablet that might seem like a blast from the past—it’s got just enough power to cater to the education and business crowds. This iPad promises to be budget-friendly yet strong enough for professionals. But will it also score high marks for being easy to repair? Let’s dive in and find out. It’s time to take this tablet apart! Want a sneak peek inside the newest tech? Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter for the latest updates from the world of repairs. Update: Check out our compatibility testing blog post for a detailed list of parts that work between the iPad 5 and iPad Air 1.

Step 1

– This iPad packs a mix of the classic and the cutting-edge. Let’s take a look at its specs and see what’s cooking inside:

– Apple 3rd-generation 64-bit A9 processor, with an embedded M9 motion coprocessor

– 9.7-inch multi-touch Retina display with a crisp 2048 x 1536 resolution (264 ppi) and a non-laminated digitizer

– Storage options: 32 GB or 128 GB, plenty of room for your apps and memories

– 8-megapixel 1080p rear-facing iSight camera + 1.2-megapixel 720p front-facing FaceTime HD camera

– Wi-Fi: 802.11a/b/g/n/ac MIMO + Bluetooth 4.2 for smooth connections

– Touch ID fingerprint sensor + 3-axis gyro + accelerometer + barometer + ambient light sensor

Step 2

– We went the distance across multiple time zones—including the likes of Australian Eastern Standard Time and Japan Standard Time. Oh, and don’t forget Pacific Standard Time, which meant a six-hour drive… southward…

– Our friends at Creative Electron in San Marcos hosted an iPad teardown for us and generously shared some early X-ray insights.

– Yep, looks like the classic original iPad Air inside.

– From the outside, it’s a dead ringer for an iPad Air—but are appearances telling the full story?

Step 3

Good news! The headphone jack is still in action.

– Before diving in, let’s quickly check the back just to confirm that this isn’t an old iPad pretending to be a new one.

– When stacked up next to the Air 1, the 2017 model looks almost identical. The main differences include:

– New Model number: A1822—give it a check.

– No more lock switch (if the Air 2 had it, you can skip it too, iPad 5).

– Microphone slots are now microphone holes (less chance for random dust to sneak in?).

– Just one row of speaker holes (fewer holes, but maybe more elegance?).

Step 4

– Let’s get the iPad open! It’s time to heat, pry, peek, and repeat—just like a pro.

– From what we’re seeing, this device is looking more like the Air 1 than the Air 2. Why? Well, the LCD and digitizer aren’t glued together—each part can be swapped out individually. Good news for repairs, right?

– Just to test our luck, we try swapping in an LCD and digitizer from an Air 1. The connectors match! We’ll run a few more tests later to see if they actually work as expected…

– We carefully slide a Battery Isolation Pick between the battery and logic board. This keeps any electrical mishaps from happening—just a little precaution to keep those electrons from going rogue.

Step 5

A thumbs up for the fingerprint sensor – it’s pretty great! But hold on, it’s a thumbs down for the repair; this little guy is like a unique snowflake, tightly bonded to its logic board right from the factory.

You’re likely dealing with an NXP Semiconductor NVT8461A1 (WLCSP20) secure microcontroller. Quite the tech star!

– Turning the digitizer over reveals the biggest difference so far from the lookalike iPad Air: hello, Touch ID and its cool hardware setup.

– Thankfully, this button is still a real button (unlike the solid-state non-button introduced on 7-series iPhones). Check out that switch just below the Lightning port traces.

– Those are probably hall sensors doing their thing.

– Here’s the NXP 8461A1 chip, visible as a 5×4 ball grid array tucked under the speaker in this neat X-ray shot.

Step 6

When Apple introduced the iPad 5, they made sure to mention its shiny new 9.7-inch Retina display—now brighter and better than ever. It’s ready to show off those sharp visuals in all their glory!

– Next up, let’s take a peek at the display. This time around, we don’t see any handy-dandy manufacturer marks peeking out at us.

– Right in the spotlight on the display PCB, we’ve got a Parade DP655 — the same LCD timing controller that made an appearance on the Air 1 display.

– Check it out: Texas Instruments TPS65143 display power supply keeping things powered up.

– And here’s the star of the show: Rohm BR24T16-W 16 Kb serial EEPROM memory, adding some spice to the mix.

– LG, how are you holding up?

– But here’s a thought: brighter than what exactly? It doesn’t seem all that different from the Air 1’s display. If they’re talking about being brighter than the Air 2, it might just be a nod to the classic unfused display design of the Air 1.

Step 7

– Remember when we said this was pretty much like the first Air? We weren’t kidding. Take a peek at the Air 1 and iPad 5—there’s not a whole lot that’s changed.

– Here’s the Air 1 in sleek Space Grey with a slightly bigger Wi-Fi module thrown in.

– The iPad 5, on the other hand, is rocking the silver look and… has a little less tape? Honestly, they’re almost twins.

– Both devices come with the same 32.9 Wh battery, which actually beats the 27.6 Wh battery in the iPad Air 2 and the 27.9 Wh in the iPad Pro 9.7″ (though all of them are still outperformed by the Surface Pro 4’s 38.2 Wh battery).

– Editor’s note: Yep, it’s the same tape, just laid out in cleaner lines. Apologies if it looked a little wrinkly after the guides on the Air 1—those guides will help you with your new iPad 5 too.

Step 8

– Let’s dive into the world of silicon! The backside of this board is a chip-free zone, so we can hold off on our sticky glue adventures for now. Meanwhile, check out the cool components we’ve got up top:

– Apple A9 APL0898 SoC + Samsung K3RG1G10BM-BGCH 2 GB LPDDR4 RAM (just like in the iPhone 6s!)

– SK Hynix H23QEG8VG2ACR 32 GB NAND flash storage

– 2x Broadcom BCM5976 touch controllers—spotted in iPhones 5, 5c, 5s, 6, 6 Plus, SE, and also in MacBook trackpads and the last two generations of iPads

– Apple 343S00144-A0 and 338S1213 power management and audio codec, respectively

– NXP 67V04 (PN67V) NFC Controller, a favorite in the iPhone 7 and Apple Watch Series 2

– NXP Semiconductor CBTL610A38 USB charging IC, also found in the iPhone 7

– Apple/USI 339S0038 Wi-Fi module

Step 9

– Let’s keep the IC detective work going:

– Texas Instruments TPS5662 – the backlight driver that probably keeps the screen shining bright

– Bosch Sensortec pressure sensor – measuring the air pressure like a champ

– Invensense accelerometer – the gadget that knows when you’re on the move

Step 10

Heads up: Want to see which parts work between the iPad 5 and the iPad Air 1? Check out our compatibility testing blog post for the full scoop.

– And that’s all, folks!

– A massive thank you to Creative Electron for being such awesome hosts and treating us to pizza and caffeine.

– They also provided these amazing X-ray images.

– Plus, they let us take care of their shiny new iPad!

Success!

iPad 5 Wi-Fi Right Speaker Replacement

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 55 Steps

Take extra care when isolating the battery with a battery blocker—keeping things safe and sound is the name of the game!

This guide walks you through swapping out the right-hand speaker in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi. When disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker, take extra care—those battery contacts are delicate and can cause permanent logic board damage if messed with. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when unscrewing) to avoid shorting the battery and frying sensitive circuits.

Step 1

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Give it some love and let the heat do its magic!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– As the adhesive starts to soften, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

Step 3

The following three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.

For the full scoop on how to handle the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

If your iPad’s surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a better hold.

– Give that blue handle a little tug back to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free.

– Slide something underneath your iPad so it sits nice and level between those suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one up top and one down below.

– Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give that top cup a solid press to create some suction magic.

Step 4

– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full circle—or until you see the suction cups start to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

Step 5

Turn only about half a twist at a time, then take a breather for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting!

For detailed tips on using a hair dryer, be sure to check out this guide.

If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, give it a little more heat and twist the handle clockwise for a half turn.

– Give it a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and open a little gap. Patience is key!

– If your screen’s not warming up as it should, a quick blast from a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad should do the trick.

– Once the Anti-Clamp creates a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to get things moving.

– Feel free to skip the next step—you’re doing great!

Step 6

If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, don’t sweat it! Slapping on a layer of clear packing tape can help the suction cup stick better. If that doesn’t do the trick, strong tape can step in as an alternative to the suction cup. And if you’re really in a bind, a little superglue can go a long way—just attach that suction cup directly to your shattered screen. You’ve got this!

– Once the screen is comfortably warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and attach it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.

– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and frame to start separating them.

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 7

No need to stress if you catch a glimpse of the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just go ahead and pull it out! Your LCD screen should remain safe and sound, though you might leave behind some adhesive that could be a bit tricky to clean up.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

Step 8

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling the pick along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking that sticky seal.

Step 9

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive seal.

– Once you’re there, leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 10

– Grab your iOpener and give it a quick heat-up session. Apply it gently to the top edge of your device and let it work its magic for two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 11

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.

Step 12

Keep that pick away from the front camera—scratches on the lens are no fun. The next steps will show you how to steer clear of it with ease.

– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your device, but hold up just before you bump into the front camera. You’ve got this!

Step 13

– Gently pull the pick out, leaving just the tip wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick carefully above the front camera to break the adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

Step 14

– Slide that pick back in and shimmy it over to the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the top adhesive’s grip.

– Keep that pick nestled in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick around again.

Step 15

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 16

– Gently work the pick around the top-right corner of your device to loosen the adhesive. It should start giving way with a little effort.

Step 17

The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom edge of your iPad. Slide carefully and stop when you’re roughly three inches from the bottom to avoid any surprises.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the right edge of the iPad and work it towards the center.

Step 18

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic, and you’ll be good to go.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 19

Be careful not to rotate the pick too far around the corner—it could damage the antenna.

– Slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to separate the sticky stuff holding everything together.

– Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner before you move on to the next step.

Step 20

Just a friendly reminder: slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it! Going the wrong way might put a crimp in your antenna’s style.

If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You’ve got this!

– Pop in a fresh opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.

– Make sure to leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you carry on.

Step 21

Be careful when inserting the pick—just go about 1 mm to avoid any mishaps with the right antenna.

– Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 22

Slide the pick gently towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid messing with the antenna. Keep it chill and steady!

If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this part again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth and easy.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it towards the home button to finish separating that bottom adhesive.

– Leave the pick resting just to the right of the home button before moving on.

Step 23

– Warm up your iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

Take your time with this step—patience is key! Make sure the adhesive is nice and soft, and don’t rush the process. Use a pick to carefully separate all of the adhesive. If it feels too tough, don’t hesitate to reheat it and try again. Slow and steady wins this race!

If you’re feeling some serious resistance, no worries! Just heat up the edges a bit more and gently work your way along them with your trusty opening pick. You’ll get there!

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

Step 25

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer, giving it a little wiggle to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

Step 26

– While holding the digitizer in place, gently slide an opening pick between the display cables to peel off that last bit of stubborn adhesive. Take it slow, you’re almost there!

Step 27

– Once the adhesive has been completely peeled away, open the digitizer like you’re cracking open a book, and set it down flat, parallel to your iPad.

– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to give the frame and digitizer (if you’re reusing it) a little TLC with some isopropyl alcohol to clean off any leftover adhesive. Then, stick the new adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards in place.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables when you’re reassembling. Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen, so they don’t end up in a tangled mess or get damaged.

Step 28

– Peel away any tape that’s hiding those LCD screws. Let’s get to the good stuff!

Step 29

– Grab your trusty screwdriver and start by loosening the Phillips screws that are holding the LCD in place.

– You’ll need to unscrew three 4.0 mm screws.

– There’s also one 4.8 mm screw to remove.

Step 30

Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t try to yank the LCD off completely. It’s still hanging on tight with some cables at the home button end. Gently lift it from the front-facing camera side instead.

Take it easy and keep an eye on those LCD cables while you flip the display over. We don’t want any surprises!

Place the LCD gently on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its snug spot, just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the iPad LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, starting near the camera and guiding it over to the home button side of the rear case.

– Place the LCD face down so you can easily access the display cables underneath.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 31

Handle with care when using the battery blocker to isolate the battery! Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate, and we wouldn’t want to cause any permanent harm. Stay focused and keep it cool!

Want to keep shorts at bay? Slide in a battery blocker or a nifty modified opening pick to give that battery a little disconnect action!

If you’re finding it tricky to wiggle the battery blocker under the logic board, grab a trusty playing card to help you out with the battery disconnection.

– Unscrew the lone 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the battery connector on the logic board.

– Slide the battery blocker under the battery connector area on the logic board and keep it there while you continue working.

Tools Used

Battery Blocker

Step 32

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

Step 33

Be careful with the display cable connector—it’s stuck to the back of the bracket! So, when you’re using the spudger, keep it from diving too deep under the bracket, or you might accidentally mess up that connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently lift that display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 34

– Carefully pop out the LCD to get things rolling.

Step 35

– Peel away any tape that might be hiding the connector for the home button ribbon cable. Let’s make sure it’s all clear for the next step!

Step 36

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift that little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upwards. You got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, carefully wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Nice and easy, just like that!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 37

Be careful when you’re prying around your iPad! Stick to gently working on the connectors themselves—avoid poking at the socket on the logic board. It’s an easy mistake, but we know you’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets — nice and easy does it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 38

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 39

The insulation is like a sneaky ninja—totally invisible to the naked eye! It’s not to be confused with those foam dust barrier strips you see on many iPads. So, keep your eyes peeled and your tools ready!

– Start by gently removing the front panel assembly. Take your time and make sure you’re not rushing through it.

– When you’re putting things back together, give the inside of the front panel assembly a quick wipe to clear away any dust or fingerprints. You want that display looking crisp and clean.

– If your new display starts acting a little weird with random touch inputs (we’re talking ghost touches), try adding a very thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. This helps keep things grounded right, so you can avoid touch issues. Most panels come with the right insulation already, so you shouldn’t need to do this step unless you’re feeling extra careful.

– Without proper insulation, those parts of the digitizer could end up grounding against other components, which can lead to touch input problems. Not a fun time, so let’s prevent that!

Step 40

– Slide a spudger under the antenna cable nearest to the iPad’s edge and gently lift it up to disconnect the antenna cable connector. Just a little nudge and it will pop right off!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 41

– You’ll see two big strips of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, holding it snug against the rear case.

– Gently lift the tape away from the rear case.

– As you peel the tape up, keep it stuck to the antenna cable to make putting things back together a breeze.

Step 42

The antenna cable is secured to the speaker with a tiny metal bracket. This bracket is tightly crimped to the antenna and firmly stuck to the speaker enclosure. Just a little bit of teamwork between the metal and the speaker to keep everything in place!

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.

– Move the pick toward the home button to carefully slice through the adhesive.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it’s clear of the tape underneath.

Step 43

– Take out these Phillips #000 screws holding down the right antenna:

– One screw, 2.3 mm long

– Two screws, each 1.4 mm long

Step 44

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

– Carefully slide the spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 45

– Gently take off the right antenna from the iPad.

Step 46

– Slide your spudger gently under the left antenna cable and give it a little lift to pop the antenna cable connector free.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 47

– You’ve got five pieces of tape giving a warm hug to the left antenna cable, all while covering the right speaker cable connector. Time to set them free!

– Gently peel that tape away from the rear case like you’re unwrapping a gift.

– Now, fold the antenna cable out of the way so we can get on with our repair adventure!

Step 48

If the speaker cable is bent, it can make peeling the tape from the end a bit tricky. Just take your time!

When using your tweezers, remember to gently grab the tape and avoid snagging the cable underneath. You’ve got this!

– Grab the tape just below the speaker and gently peel it downward, moving away from the edge of the case like a pro.

Tools Used

Tweezers

Step 49

– Gently peel the tape back toward the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector underneath.

Step 50

– Grab your trusty spudger and let the pointed end do its magic! Gently flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.

– Now, with a smooth motion, slide that speaker cable straight out of its cozy ZIF connector.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 51

– Peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker stuck to the back case.

Step 52

– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the back of the case, like you’re unwrapping a present!

Step 53

– Unscrew the tiny 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the speaker snugly in place on the rear case. Let’s get that speaker out!

Step 54

– Slide your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove along the speaker housing, right by the corner of the back case.

– Gently pull the speaker downward, away from that corner, like you’re giving it some space to breathe.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 55

– Grab a spudger and gently wiggle the speaker out from beneath the edge of the rear case.

– Carefully lift the right speaker out of the iPad.

Tools Used

Spudger

Success!

Now it’s time to put everything back together! Just follow the steps from the beginning, but in reverse order. No rush, take your time, and you’ll have your device looking as good as new. If you need any help along the way, feel free to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!

iPad 5 Wi-Fi Right Antenna Replacement

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 45 Steps

Take extra care when isolating the battery with a battery blocker—safety first, but keep it cool!

This guide walks you through swapping out the right-hand antenna on your iPad 5 Wi-Fi. When disconnecting the battery using a battery blocker, take extra care—those battery contacts are delicate and a slip could mess up your logic board for good. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely needed (like when unscrewing) to avoid any accidental shorts that could fry sensitive parts.

Step 1

– Give your iOpener a warm-up session and let it cozy up to the left edge of your device for two whole minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– As you let that adhesive take its sweet time to loosen up, keep an eye on these delicate areas that don’t appreciate a rough touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

Step 3

The next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.

For the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

If your iPad’s surface is a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a bit more traction.

– Give that blue handle a little tug backwards to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Now, rest your iPad on a cushion or something soft so it sits nice and even between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups around the middle of the left edge—one on top, one on the bottom. Get them lined up just right.

– Hold the Anti-Clamp steady at the bottom and press down on the top cup firmly to make sure the suction is on point.

Step 4

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a good 360-degree turn, or keep twisting until the suction cups start to stretch.

– Check that the suction cups stay in line with each other. If they start slipping out of alignment, just loosen them a little and realign those arms like a pro.

Step 5

Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then give it a minute to chill out. Let the Anti-Clamp and patience do their magic!

Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.

If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough space, just warm things up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise about halfway around.

– Take a moment to let the adhesive cool off and form a nice little gap for you to work with.

– If your screen’s not warming up enough, give it a little extra love with a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– Once that Anti-Clamp has done its magic and the gap is big enough, slip in the opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step—you’re doing great!

Step 6

– First things first, let’s warm up that screen until it’s cozy to the touch! Now, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Next up, gently lift the screen using the suction handle. This will help you create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame—just enough to get the ball rolling!

– Now, it’s time to slide an opening pick into that gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame. You’re doing great!

If your screen is cracked to the point of needing some extra help, you can try sticking a layer of clear packing tape on it to help the suction cup stick. If that doesn’t do the trick, a strong tape can also work in place of the suction cup. And hey, if you’re feeling a little adventurous, you can even superglue the suction cup directly to the broken screen for a quick fix. Need a hand? If it gets too tricky, just schedule a repair and we’ll take care of the rest.

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 7

No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just pull it out. The LCD screen should stay safe, but there’s a chance you might leave some adhesive behind that’s a bit tricky to clean.

– Slip a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner to break the adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick in that corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 8

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the side of your device to keep separating the adhesive and move forward with ease.

Step 9

– Gently slide the opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to break the adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick in place at the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 10

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 11

– Give that pick a little spin around the top-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

Step 12

Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera, or you might end up giving the lens an unwanted makeover! Follow these steps to keep it safe and sound.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, pausing just before you reach the front camera — careful now!

Step 13

– Gently pull the pick so just the tip is sneaking between the digitizer and frame.

– Slide the pick over the front camera to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick parked near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

Step 14

– Pop the pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.

– Keep the pick right there in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 15

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 16

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

Step 17

The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Pause your slide when you hit roughly three inches from the bottom to avoid any surprises.

– Grab a new opening pick and slide it right into the groove at the middle of the iPad’s right edge. You’ve got this!

Step 18

– Grab your iOpener and give it a quick heat-up. Now, gently place it on the bottom edge of your device and let it work its magic for two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 19

Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner—you might end up messing with the antenna.

– Gently glide that bottom-left pick over to the bottom-left corner to break free from the sticky stuff holding it down.

– Keep that pick in place at the bottom-left corner before you jump to the next awesome step!

Step 20

Keep the pick sliding only towards the home button — sliding it the other way might mess up the antenna, and we want to keep things intact!

If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and tuck it back in at the bottom-left corner before trying again.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick right into that sweet little gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently glide the pick along the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.

– Make sure to leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you keep going.

Step 21

Be gentle and only insert the pick up to 1 mm – we don’t want to accidentally mess with that right antenna!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve created.

– Carefully slide the pick under the home button, guiding it towards the bottom-right corner. Keep it just under the surface, ensuring only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 22

Be sure to slide the pick gently toward the home button, not away from it; otherwise, you might accidentally mess with the antenna. Let’s keep that antenna happy!

If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner. You’ve got this!

– Slide the pick back in and glide it toward the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.

– Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.

Step 23

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the right edge of your device for two minutes. You’re on your way to a smooth repair!

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to separate, and carefully work your pick along every bit of adhesive. Don’t hesitate to pause and warm it up again if needed.

If you hit some stubborn resistance, just warm up the edges again and gently glide your opening pick along them.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to loosen the last stubborn bits of adhesive holding it down.

Step 25

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad. You’re doing great!

Step 26

– While holding the digitizer steady, gently insert an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive.

Step 27

– After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for a snug fit.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to keep them safe and sound.

Step 28

– Peel away any tape hiding the screws around the LCD. You’ll want a clear view of those little guys so you can get them out smoothly.

Step 29

– Let’s get those Phillips screws out of the way so we can get to the good stuff!

– Unscrew the three 4.0 mm screws.

– And don’t forget the one 4.8 mm screw, it’s just as important!

Step 30

Hey there, just a friendly heads-up! Don’t go yanking out the LCD completely – it’s still hanging out with a few cables at the home button end. Gently lift it from the front-facing camera side only.

Take it easy and keep an eye on those LCD cables while you flip the display over. You’ve got this!

Gently place the LCD face-down on a soft, clean, lint-free spot to keep it happy and scratch-free.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the LCD to lift it just enough for your fingers to take over. You’ve got this!

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning a page in a good book, lifting it from the camera side and swinging it over to the home button side of the rear case. Easy peasy!

– Place the LCD face down to give yourself some room to access those display cables. You’re almost there!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 31

Handle the battery blocker with care—those battery contacts are delicate little things and a slip can cause damage you won’t be able to fix. Keep it cool and steady!

To keep things short-circuit-free, pop in a battery blocker or grab a modified opening pick to disconnect that battery like a pro.

If that battery blocker is playing hard to get under the logic board, no sweat! A trusty playing card can help you slide in there and make the connection disappear.

– Unscrew the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector in place on the logic board.

– Gently slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area on the logic board, and leave it there as you continue working.

Tools Used

Battery Blocker

Step 32

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket and keep them safe. You’re almost there!

Step 33

Heads up! The display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of the bracket, so be careful not to shove the spudger too far underneath or you might accidentally nick the connector.

– Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the display cable bracket and lift it straight up from the logic board—easy does it!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 34

– Time to say goodbye to that LCD! Carefully detach it from the device and set it aside. You’ve got this!

Step 35

– Peel back any tape that’s hiding the home button ribbon cable connector.

Step 36

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Now, with a delicate touch, carefully slide the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. It’s like a little cable dance—smooth and steady!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 37

Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—avoid poking the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets—think of it as a little gentle nudge to wake them up!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 38

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive keeping it stuck to the back case.

Step 39

You won’t spot this insulation with just a glance—it’s not like the foam dust barrier strips you see on a bunch of iPads. Keep an eye out!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– When putting it back together, give the inside of the front panel assembly a good wipe to get rid of any dust or fingerprints—your display will thank you.

– If your new display starts acting up with “ghost” or “phantom” touches, try adding a super thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton tape to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Panels that come properly insulated shouldn’t need this step.

– Without this insulation, parts of the digitizer might short out against other components, causing those pesky touch issues.

Step 40

– Slide a spudger under the antenna cable that’s nearest to the edge of your iPad and gently lift it up to disconnect the antenna cable connector. You’re doing great!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 41

– You’ll notice two hefty strips of tape hugging that right antenna cable, giving it a snug hold against the rear case. Time to break that bond!

– Gently peel the tape away from the rear case – it’s like unwrapping a gift, but the surprise is better connectivity!

– As you peel the tape off, keep it attached to the antenna cable. This little trick will make your reassembly a breeze later on!

Step 42

The antenna cable is secured to the speaker with a nifty little metal bracket. This bracket is crimped on for good and glued to the speaker enclosure, keeping everything nice and snug.

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket—nice and easy now.

– Slide the pick toward the home button to carefully slice through the adhesive holding things down.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it pops free of the tape underneath.

Step 43

– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Let’s tackle those Phillips #000 screws holding down the right antenna:

– First up, we’ve got one tiny 2.3 mm screw—easy peasy!

– Next, grab your screwdriver for not one, but two 1.4 mm screws. You’ve got this!

Step 44

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly—think of it as giving your device a little tickle!

– Now, glide that spudger toward the home button to break free the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. You’re on your way to a successful repair!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 45

– Gently take out the right antenna from the iPad to keep things connected and running smoothly.

Success!

Put your device back together by reversing these steps—easy peasy!

If you hit a snag or need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

NuVision TM800A510L Rear Camera Replacement

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 4 Steps

Getting the back off your device is going to take up most of your time, but don’t worry, it’s all part of the journey! The cameras are stuck down with a bit of adhesive, but they’re a breeze to remove. Take your time and keep it steady.

Step 1

NuVision TM800A510L Rear Camera Replacement

Watch out for the power and volume buttons—they’re small but mighty, so handle them with care!

Metal tools might get the job done quicker but beware—they can leave scratches on your device. Plastic prying tools are a safer bet to keep things looking fresh.

– Gently warm up the edges of your device using a Heat Gun, one side at a time. This will soften the adhesive and make things easier.

– Carefully slide some thin tools under the back cover and pry it off bit by bit.

Tools Used

Heat Gun

Step 2

– Heads up: there are two separate cameras here, each rocking its own ribbon cable.

– Gently flip up the black latch to unlock both ribbons and get ready to go.

Step 3

If the camera you’re most concerned about is the one you’re working on, you’re in the right place!

But, if the one you care about is the one facing you, just skip ahead to the next step!

– The camera that’s pointing down at the table pops right out without any fuss, so go ahead and gently lift that out. You’re doing great!

Step 4

The camera is glued in place, so be extra gentle when prying it loose.

Take it slow, no need to rush!

– Now that you’ve tackled the disassembly, it’s time to put everything back together in reverse order. Easy peasy, right?

– Just a heads up: you’ll want to grab some new adhesive for a snug fit.

– If you find yourself scratching your head, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert assistance!

Success!

Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and do everything in reverse. Remember to grab some new adhesive to keep everything snug and secure.

And hey, if you hit a snag along the way, no worries! Just schedule a repair and let the pros help you out.

iPad 5 Wi-Fi Rear Facing Camera Replacement

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 44 Steps

Handle with care while you work on isolating the battery using a battery blocker!

Get ready to swap out that rear-facing main camera on your iPad 5 Wi-Fi! Just a heads up, when you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it easy—those battery contacts are a bit fragile and can cause some serious trouble for the logic board if damaged. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to keep metal tools to a minimum (only use them when absolutely necessary, like for screws) to avoid any unexpected battery shorts or mishaps with the delicate circuit components. If you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

Step 1

iPad 5 Wi-Fi Rear Facing Camera Replacement

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the left edge of the device for a solid two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 2

– As you let that adhesive work its magic, keep an eye out for these sensitive spots that prefer a gentle touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

Step 3

The upcoming three steps walk you through the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool designed to make prying open your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.

For detailed instructions on how to work the Anti-Clamp like a pro, check out this guide.

If your iPad’s surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, stick on some tape to give it a better hold.

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set your iPad on something so it sits nice and flat between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one towards the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top cup to get a good seal.

Step 4

– Give that blue handle a little tug forward to lock those arms in place! You’ve got this!

– Now, twist that handle clockwise all the way around – that’s a 360-degree spin! Keep going until those suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Just a friendly reminder: make sure those suction cups are staying in sync with each other. If they start to wobble out of line, don’t sweat it! Just loosen them up a tad and get those arms back on track.

Step 5

Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then take a chill minute to let the Anti-Clamp and patience do their magic.

For a full walkthrough on how to operate a hair dryer, take a peek at this guide.

If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough, heat things up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise about half a turn.

– Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap to work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and gently heat along the left edge of the iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp opens up a good gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to get things started.

– Go ahead and skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is shattered like a jigsaw puzzle, slapping on some clear packing tape might just do the trick to help your suction cup stick! If that’s not your vibe, a sturdy tape can be your trusty sidekick in place of the suction cup. And if you’re really in a bind, a little superglue can temporarily unite the suction cup with your cracked screen for a quick fix.

– Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it as close to the left edge as you can.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create just enough space between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you’ve made, and you’re all set to go!

Tools Used

Suction Handle

Step 7

No need to fret if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just gently pull it out. Your LCD screen should be just fine, but be aware that you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that’s a bit tricky to clean up.

– Pop in a second opening pick right into that gap you’ve just opened up.

– Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner of your device to break free from that sticky adhesive.

– Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from going back to its old ways.

Step 8

– If your opening pick decides to play sticky and gets caught in the adhesive, just give it a smooth little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation moving.

Step 9

– Gently slide that first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive free.

– Once you’ve made that move, leave the pick wedged in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

Step 10

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it right on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 11

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive.

Step 12

Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera, as that could lead to some lens mishaps. Follow these steps to keep everything safe and sound!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, stopping just shy of the front camera. Patience here goes a long way—don’t rush it!

Step 13

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the front camera area to loosen the adhesive.

– Rest the pick near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

Step 14

– Pop that pick back in and gently slide it over to the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to stop that pesky adhesive from sticking back together!

Step 15

– Warm up your iOpener and give that right edge of your device a cozy two-minute hug.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 16

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to break through the adhesive seal like a pro.

Step 17

The display cables hang out around the halfway point from the bottom of the iPad. Once you slide in about three inches from the bottom, it’s time to stop – you don’t want to go too far, trust us!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly into the middle of the iPad’s right edge.

Step 18

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 19

Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner to keep the antenna safe and sound.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick nestled in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

Step 20

Be sure to slide the pick gently toward the home button, not away from it; doing otherwise might cause some antenna trouble. Keep it cool and steady!

If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner.

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.

– Let the pick rest to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.

Step 21

Be sure to only slide the pick in just 1 mm to keep that right antenna safe and sound!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Carefully work the pick under the home button, inching it towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is sneaking between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 22

Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—going the other way might mess up the antenna, and we don’t want that!

If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.

– Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Set the pick just to the right of the home button and hold tight before moving on.

Step 23

– Heat up your iOpener and gently place it on the right edge of your device for about two minutes. Let the warmth work its magic, softening things up nicely.

Tools Used

iOpener

Step 24

Take it slow and steady here! Warm up that adhesive until it’s nice and soft, gently work your pick to separate everything, and remember—it’s totally fine to pause and reheat if you need.

If you hit some stubborn resistance, just warm up the edges a bit more and gently wiggle an opening pick along them.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

Step 25

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer and let it rise a bit to help loosen that pesky adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

Step 26

– While gently holding the digitizer, use an opening pick to slide between the display cables. This will help you separate the final bit of adhesive, making the process smoother. Keep it steady, you’re almost there!

Step 27

– After you’ve carefully separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting things back together, wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.

– Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly. Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

Step 28

– Peel back any tape that’s hiding the LCD screws so you can get to them.

Step 29

– Let’s get this party started by unscrewing those pesky Phillips screws holding the LCD in place! You’ll need to take out three 4.0 mm screws and one 4.8 mm screw. You’ve got this!

Step 30

Don’t try to yank the LCD off completely just yet—it’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Start lifting gently from the front-facing camera side instead.

Take it slow and watch those LCD cables like a hawk as you flip the display over.

Carefully place the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its groove so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the iPad LCD over like turning a page, starting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the rear case.

– Set the LCD face down to give yourself easy access to the display cables.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 31

Handle the battery with care when using a battery blocker! Those contacts can be fragile, and a little mishap could lead to some serious damage. Stay sharp and take it easy!

Want to keep those pesky shorts at bay? Slip in a battery blocker or grab a modified opening pick to help disconnect that battery like a pro!

If you’re having a little trouble getting that battery blocker under the logic board, a trusty playing card can work wonders to help you out!

– Unscrew the lone 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector onto the logic board.

– Slide the battery blocker right under the battery connector area on the logic board and keep it there while you continue working.

Tools Used

Battery Blocker

Step 32

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding down the display cable bracket—time to free that cable!

Step 33

Be careful with the display cable connector! It’s snugly attached to the underside of the bracket, so when you’re using the spudger, keep it gentle and don’t go too deep under the bracket. We wouldn’t want you to accidentally give that connector a rough time!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the display cable bracket. With a little finesse, lift it straight up from the logic board like a pro!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 34

– Take off the LCD screen with care.

Step 35

– Peel away any tape that’s holding down the home button ribbon cable connector. Time to set that little guy free!

Step 36

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to lift that tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’re doing great!

– Now, with a delicate touch, slide the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector horizontally. Easy peasy!

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 37

Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—avoid nudging the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.

– Carefully use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to gently lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 38

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive that’s holding it to the rear case. Take it slow, no need to rush—this part is all about being precise!

Step 39

The insulation is a sneaky little thing—it’s not something you can see with your own eyes! And just to clear things up, it’s not the same as those foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– When putting it back together, give the inside of the front panel assembly a good wipe to clear away any dust or fingerprints so your display looks spotless.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch inputs, a simple fix is to add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Panels from Salvation Repair already come insulated properly, so you probably won’t need to add any tape.

– Without this insulation, certain parts of the digitizer might accidentally touch other components, causing those pesky touch glitches.

Step 40

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding down the upper component cable bracket. Let’s get that bracket out of the way!

Step 41

If you’re working with the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, your iPad might look a little different. You’ll need to remove two extra screws to get to some components hidden behind this bracket. No biggie—just a little extra step to make sure everything’s running smoothly!

– Detach the upper component cable bracket with care.

Step 42

Be gentle and lift the connector, not the socket itself. It’s all about that delicate touch!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to unplug the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.

– Slide the rear-facing camera cable to the left to move it out of your way.

Tools Used

Spudger

Step 43

– Slide a plastic opening tool under the rear-facing camera, gently pry it up, and lift it away from the sticky adhesive that’s holding it to the back case.

Step 44

– Carefully detach the rear camera from the device.

Success!

To put your device back together, just follow these steps backwards—easy peasy!

Nabi 2S Speakers Replacement

Posted on September 13, 2025 by Ralph Harris

Duration: 45 minutes

Steps: 8 Steps

Get ready to dive into the world of sound! This guide will help you tackle the task of removing your device’s speakers, perfect for when those tunes just aren’t hitting the right note. Let’s make those speaker swaps a breeze!

Step 1

– Take off the snazzy red rubber case from your device. It’s time to give it a little breathing room!

Step 2

– First things first, let’s make sure the screen is looking away from you, while the back cover is facing you like a loyal friend.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #0 Screwdriver and get ready to unscrew those 3mm screws! Turn them counter-clockwise in each corner of the plastic back cover. You’ll be tackling a total of four screws. No need to worry about the smaller case on the back cover; it’s snugly attached to the main cover and doesn’t want to leave the party!

Tools Used

Phillips #0 Screwdriver

Step 3

Taking the case off might take a bit of muscle, so get ready to channel your inner superhero. Using both hands definitely helps, and starting at the corners to gently pry things loose is the way to go.

– Grab the plastic opening tool and gently pry open the case to reveal what’s inside.

Step 4

– Once the back case is loosened, carefully lift it off to get to the battery for replacement or inspection.

Step 5

– Grab your trusty Phillips #0 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those screws! Spin them out in a clockwise direction to free the circuit board from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

Tools Used

Phillips #0 Screwdriver

Step 6

– Alright, let’s get those speakers free! First, find the wires connecting the right speaker to the circuit. Grab onto that circuit like you’re holding onto a winning lottery ticket.

– Now, gently slide those wires off the circuit to release the speakers. It’s like unwrapping a gift—just a little bit of finesse and you’ll have them out in no time!

Step 7

– Carefully lift the circuit board to get a better angle for taking out the speaker.

– Use your fingers to grab the speaker and gently pull it away from the plastic frame.

Step 8

The circuit board should still be wiggly enough to let you pop out the speaker with ease.

– Now that you’ve tackled the disassembly, it’s time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and before you know it, your device will be as good as new. And remember, if you hit a snag or need an extra hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Success!

Now, let’s put your device back together by following these steps in reverse! If you hit any snags along the way, remember, you can always schedule a repair for expert help.