Author: Ralph Harris

– Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– As you let that adhesive do its thing, keep an eye out for these sensitive spots that need some extra love while prying:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug backwards to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free!

– Slide something under your iPad so it sits comfortably between those suction cups.

– Place the suction cups snugly at the midpoint of the left edge—one on top and one on the bottom, like a cozy little pair.

– Keep a steady hand on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down firmly on the top cup to create a strong suction. You’ve got this!

– Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you notice the suction cups starting to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to ensure they stay lined up. If they start to drift out of sync, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try gently heating the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.

– When the Anti-Clamp opens a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Just skip the next step.

– Once the screen feels warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.

– Gently pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the screen and the frame, and you’re in!

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– If your opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep separating that sticky stuff.

– Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to start loosening that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.

– Warm up that iOpener and give the top edge of your device a nice, cozy 2-minute heat-up. You’ll be ready to go in no time!

– Give that pick a little spin around the top-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but pause just before you hit the front camera—easy does it!

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick above the front camera to break apart the adhesive.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.

– Grab the pick and slide it gently towards the top-right corner of the device to peel away the top adhesive completely.

– Leave the pick in place at the top-right corner to keep that adhesive from sealing back up.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive like a pro.

– Grab your opening pick and gently slide it along to the right edge of your iPad, aiming for the middle. This part can be a little tricky, but just keep going—you’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a warm-up! Place it on the bottom edge of your device for a cozy two minutes. Let’s get things toasty!

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick snug in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.

– Keep the pick positioned just to the left of the home button before moving on.

– Carefully slip an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop that pick back in place and slide it right on over to the home button to fully break free from that sticky adhesive at the bottom.

– Keep the pick chilling to the right of the home button before you move on.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to break through the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer up to help peel away the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– Keep the digitizer steady and slide an opening pick gently between the two display cables to carefully break apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.

– Now that the adhesive is completely separated, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to clean up any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Don’t forget to add fresh adhesive with our strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– As you reassemble the device, keep an eye on the display cables. Make sure they’re properly tucked underneath the LCD screen to avoid any unnecessary damage.

– Peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to the good stuff.

– Let’s get this show on the road! First up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the screws holding the LCD in place.

– You’ll need to take out three of those 4.0 mm screws—easy peasy!

– And don’t forget about the one 4.8 mm screw; it’s a little different, but we’ve got this!

– Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the LCD from its snug home just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip the LCD over like you’re turning a page in a book, starting at the camera side and flipping it towards the home button end of the rear case.

– Place the LCD face down so you can easily access those display cables.

– First up, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out that lone 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector to the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Now, slide that handy battery blocker right under the battery connector area of the logic board. Keep it there while you dive into the next steps!

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding down the display cable bracket—time to loosen things up a bit!

– Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the display cable bracket and lift it straight up from the logic board with a gentle touch.

– Take off the LCD screen like a pro! It’s the first step to getting your device back in action.

– Peel off any tape that’s holding down the home button ribbon cable connector. Time to give it some freedom!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– Now, carefully slide that home button ribbon cable out horizontally from the ZIF connector. Take your time – no rush!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. Take your time – no need to rush!

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the sticky stuff that’s keeping it attached to the back case. You’ve got this!

– Start by gently removing the front panel assembly. It’s like peeling back the cover of a mystery novel, but in tech form!

– When putting things back together, be sure to give the inside of the front panel a quick wipe. Dust and fingerprints don’t make for a clean display, and we all want that crisp look.

– If your new display starts acting a little strange with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t worry! This can usually be fixed by adding a thin layer of insulating tape (like Kapton tape) on the back of the panel in the marked areas. These panels are usually pre-insulated, so no tape needed, but if in doubt, adding some won’t hurt.

– Without proper insulation, the digitizer might short out against other parts, leading to some funky touch input behavior. So make sure everything’s properly insulated to keep things working smoothly.

– Unscrew the trio of 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding the upper component cable bracket in place.

– Time to liberate that upper component cable bracket! Let’s gently take it off and continue our repair adventure.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the front-facing camera connector. With a little finesse, disconnect it from the logic board and you’re one step closer to a successful repair!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the front-facing camera housing upwards, then pop it out of the case like a pro!

– Gently slide a spudger under the front-facing camera to loosen it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the back case.

– Carefully lift the front-facing camera out of the iPad.

– Gently pry up the headphone jack connector from the logic board using the flat end of a spudger.

– Carefully fold the headphone jack cable out of the way to keep it safe.

– Gently pry up the microphone cable connector from the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. Take it slow and steady!

– Gently lay the top part of your iPad onto the warm iOpener to loosen things up.

– Slide the flat end of a spudger gently between the case and the microphone cable.

– Carefully work the lower part of the microphone cable loose from the case by scraping it away.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the fragile top part of the microphone cable off the sticky adhesive that’s keeping it attached to the rear case.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps backwards—easy peasy! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– While you’re letting that adhesive take its time to relax, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that are a bit touchy when it comes to prying:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set your iPad on something so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the center of the left side—one up top and one down low.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top cup to create suction.

– Slide the blue handle forward until the arms click into place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you notice the suction cups starting to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to ensure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Take a moment and hang tight for a minute to let that adhesive do its thing and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen seems to be playing hard to get and isn’t warming up enough, a hairdryer can be your best friend—just gently warm up the left edge of the iPad.

– When the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and made a nice gap, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer to keep that opening going.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it right on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Use the suction handle to gently lift the screen, just enough to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slip an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame to keep things moving.

– Pop in a second opening pick into that fresh gap you’ve just made.

– Gently slide the pick down towards the bottom-left corner of your device to break free the sticky stuff holding it together.

– Keep that pick tucked in the bottom-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to play hide-and-seek again.

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff!

– Gently glide the first opening pick up to the top-left corner of your device to break that adhesive seal like a pro.

– Keep that pick snugly in the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it gently on the top edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break that pesky adhesive seal.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause right before you reach the front camera.

– Gently pull the pick out so that only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick smoothly above the front camera to break the adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera, ready to continue the separation.

– Slide the pick back in and shimmy it towards the top-right corner of your device to fully break free that pesky top adhesive.

– Keep that pick in the top-right corner to ensure the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick around again.

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a little heat! Place it on the right edge of your device for a cozy two-minute warm-up. You’ll be all set to move on to the next step!

– Gently twirl the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it along the iPad’s right edge, making your way to the middle. Take it slow and steady, you’ll be there in no time.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let’s get that adhesive nice and toasty!

– Gently slide your trusty bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive seal like a pro.

– Keep that pick in place at the bottom-left corner before you move on to the next exciting step!

– Pop a new opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you hit the home button.

– Keep that pick chilling to the left of the home button before moving on.

– Slide an opening pick into the little gap you just made.

– Gently glide the pick under the home button, aiming towards the bottom-right corner, making sure just the tip sneaks between the digitizer and frame.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it toward the home button to fully separate the bottom adhesive.

– Leave the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for two minutes. This should soften things up just enough to make your next move a breeze.

– Give those two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad. This will help you lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bits of adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad. You’re doing great!

– While gently holding the digitizer in place, carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of stubborn adhesive.

– Once all the sticky stuff is out of the way, gently flip the digitizer open like a book and lay it down next to the iPad, just chillin’.

– When it’s time to put everything back together, give the leftover adhesive a nice clean-up with some isopropyl alcohol—don’t forget the digitizer if you’re bringing it back to the party! Swap in some fresh adhesive strips or those nifty pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while you’re reassembling. Make sure they’re tucked in neatly beneath the LCD screen so they don’t get into any mischief.

– Peel away any tape hiding those pesky LCD screws. We don’t want anything getting in the way of your progress!

– Let’s get to work! First up, we need to take off the screws that are holding the LCD in place. Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and locate the following screws:

– Three little 4.0 mm screws that are just waiting to be unscrewed.

– And don’t forget that one sneaky 4.8 mm screw hiding out there!

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its slot so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the iPad LCD over like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the rear case.

– Rest the LCD face down to give yourself clear access to the display cables.

– First things first, let’s get that battery connector free! Grab your trusty 2.3 mm Phillips screwdriver and remove the single screw that’s securing the battery connector to the logic board.

– Next, slide the battery blocker under the battery connector area on the logic board. Keep it there while you tackle the next steps—it’s your little helper!

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding the display cable bracket in place. A little twist, a little pop—off they go!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You’re doing great!

– Carefully detach the LCD screen.

– Peel away any tape that’s hiding the home button ribbon cable connector. It’s like unwrapping a gift, but this one’s all about getting your device back in action!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upwards.

– Now, carefully slide the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector—think of it like a smooth, horizontal slide.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail and gently lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. Take it slow and steady, you’ve got this!

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky adhesive holding it down to the back case—take it slow and steady!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– When putting it back together, give the inside of the front panel assembly a good wipe to clear away any dust or fingerprints—your display will thank you.

– If you notice any weird ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches on your new display, try adding a super thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Panels that come properly insulated shouldn’t need this step.

– Without this insulation, parts of the digitizer might short out against other components, causing those pesky touch issues.

– Carefully slide a spudger under the antenna cable near the iPad’s edge and gently pop it up to unplug the antenna cable connector.

– Two big strips of tape are holding the right antenna cable in place, keeping it snug against the rear case.

– Gently peel the tape off from the rear case.

– As you peel away the tape, leave it attached to the antenna cable so it’s easy to put everything back together later.

– Gently slip an opening pick between the speaker casing and the antenna cable bracket. Take your time here!

– Now, slide that pick down towards the home button to break through the adhesive. Smooth and steady!

– Give the bracket a gentle push away from the speaker, letting it clear the tape below. A little nudge and you’re done!

– Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and get ready to remove these right antenna screws:

– One 2.3 mm screw

– Two 1.4 mm screws

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. We’re getting in there!

– Now, give that spudger a little slide toward the home button to break the foam adhesive that’s holding the antenna in place. You’ve totally got this!

– Detach the right antenna from your iPad with care.

– Slide a spudger gently beneath the left antenna cable and give it a little lift to pop that connection loose. You’re doing great!

– You’ve got five pieces of tape holding down that left antenna cable, and they’re cozied up with the right speaker cable connector. Let’s break that bond!

– Gently peel the tape up from the rear case—nice and easy does it.

– Now, fold that antenna cable out of the way so we can get to the good stuff!

– Grab the tape just below the speaker and gently peel it downward, away from the edge of the case. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel back the tape towards the home button to reveal the connector for the speaker cable.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.

– Now, give that speaker cable a straight pull to slide it right out of its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

– Peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker stuck to the back case.

– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the back cover like you’re peeling the most delicate banana.

– Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the speaker in place on the back casing. Keep it safe—you’ll need it later!

– Gently slide your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right near the corner of the rear case.

– Now, give that speaker a little tug downwards, away from the corner of the case. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the speaker out from beneath the edge of the rear case.

– Carefully lift the right speaker off the iPad and set it aside.

– Unscrew those three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding down the upper component cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Gently pop off the upper component cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– There are still two pieces of tape holding the left antenna cable down to the rear case.

– Gently peel the tape off the rear case to free the cable.

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket like a smooth operator.

– Move the pick toward the home button to carefully slice through the adhesive.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it’s free from the tape underneath.

– Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and loosen these screws:

– Two tiny 1.4 mm screws

– One slightly bigger 2.3 mm screw

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

– Carefully glide the spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place.

– Gently detach the left antenna from the iPad.

– Peel away the tape that’s holding down the left speaker cable connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently flip up the little flap holding the left speaker cable connector in place.

– Gently slide the speaker cable straight out from its ZIF connector—easy does it!

– Gently peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker snug on the back case. Take your time—no need to rush, just let it come off smoothly.

– Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the speaker in place on the rear case. It’s a small one, but don’t worry—you’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the left speaker ribbon cable to ensure it stays out of the way as you slide the speaker enclosure out. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.

– Carefully pull the speaker downward, away from the corner of the case.

– Grab your trusty spudger to gently pry the speaker out from underneath the edge of the rear case.

– Carefully lift and remove the left speaker from the iPad.

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to unplug the front-facing camera connector from the logic board. You’re doing great!

– Now, let’s fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way. Nice and easy!

– Heads up! There’s a little bit of conductive adhesive hanging out between the gold-colored cable contacts. Make sure to apply some pressure to stick those contacts back in place when you’re putting everything back together.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to unplug the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.

– Carefully fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way to keep it safe.

– Grab your trusty flat end of a spudger and gently pry that headphone jack connector away from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Now, just fold that headphone jack cable to the side like it’s taking a little break. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to carefully unplug the microphone cable from the logic board. It’s a simple step, just take your time and make sure everything is fully disconnected!

– Peel off any tape that’s covering the upper button assembly cable connector. You’ll want that connector exposed and ready to go!

– Gently use the pointy end of your spudger to lift up the little flap holding the upper button assembly cable connector in place.

– Gently slide the upper button assembly cable right out of its ZIF connector, like you’re giving it a little high-five!

– Take out the two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the Lightning port—easy does it!

– The adhesive comes in six pieces of black foam tape—keep an eye on where each one goes as you heat and pry. It’ll make it easier to stay on track as you work through the process.

– Set a warm iOpener on the back end of the iPad where the rear camera lives, and let it chill there for at least a minute to loosen up the adhesive under the back cover.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, positioning it between the front-facing camera and the battery.

– Carefully move the pick towards the front-facing camera connector, stopping at the bend in the logic board.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, starting from the front-facing camera all the way to the rear-facing camera. You’ve got this!

– Place a warm iOpener on the bottom edge of your iPad. Let it do its thing for a bit to loosen things up before you move on to the next step.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the Lightning cable right where it connects to the logic board.

– Carefully guide the pick down and follow the cable’s curve around the bend.

– Keep on sliding that opening pick under the cable, but stop just shy of where the cable curves towards the Lightning connector. You’re doing great!

– Slide the opening pick carefully between the battery and the Lightning connector to gently loosen the last bit of adhesive holding the cable down.

– Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its spot in the rear case—easy does it!

– Carefully set a warm iOpener on the left side of the back case, right where the logic board is stuck down.

– Slide a plastic opening tool into the rectangular gap near the top of the logic board, then gently lift the logic board away from the rear case.

– Keep the opening tool tucked under the logic board as you glide it down the length of the gap to loosen the upper end from the sticky adhesive.

– Gently lift the logic board from the bottom edge of the rectangular opening, right by the EMI shield. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the logic board, right between it and the battery.

– Gently work the pick from the base toward the center of the logic board to slice through the adhesive.

– Gently slide the pick along the length of the logic board, like you’re spreading some butter on toast.

– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive, carefully lift the battery side of the logic board away from the rear case. It’s like giving your device a little wiggle to set it free!

– Gently lift the logic board from the edge closest to the battery, and slide an opening pick in at the far end of the logic board.

– Snip any adhesive that’s holding the outer edge of the logic board to the rear case.

– To put your device back together, simply reverse the steps we just took. You’ve got this! If you find yourself in a bind, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of your device.

– As you let the adhesive take its time to loosen up, keep an eye on these delicate areas that could get a little sensitive if you’re too rough with your prying tools:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a good tug back to let the Anti-Clamp’s arms stretch out and get ready for action.

– Set your iPad on something flat and sturdy so it sits nice and even between those suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one should go up top, and the other down below.

– Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp while you press down firmly on the top cup to create a solid seal.

– Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place. Nice and steady!

– Twist the handle clockwise 360 degrees, or until you feel the suction cups start to stretch. You got this!

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms. Easy fix!

– Give it about a minute to let the adhesive chill out and create a little gap to work with.

– If your screen feels more like a block of ice than a hot plate, try warming up the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.

– When the Anti-Clamp has done its job and opened up a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Just skip the next step and keep rolling.

– When your screen feels pleasantly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, keeping it as close to the edge as you can.

– Gently pull the screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap you’ve just made between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you’ve made, like sliding a secret note into a crack.

– Gently glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of your device, and watch the adhesive loosen its grip.

– Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again and sealing up.

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling that adhesive away. Easy does it!

– Gently slide your first opening pick towards the top-left corner to loosen up that adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the pick anchored in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things ready.

– Gently rotate the pick around the top-left corner of your device, just like you’re peeling back the edges of a stubborn sticker, to carefully break the adhesive seal.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but remember to halt just shy of that front camera. We wouldn’t want to disturb its beauty!

– Gently pull the pick out, just enough so the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick carefully above the front camera to start breaking the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop that pick back in and slide it up toward the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the adhesive’s grasp.

– Keep that pick in place at the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t rejoin the party.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and pliable.

– Gently work the pick around the top-right corner of your device to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it along the iPad’s right edge, aiming for the center. Nice and steady—no rush!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently glide the bottom-left pick into the bottom-left corner to break free from that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick snugly in the bottom-left corner before you leap into the next step!

– Slide a brand new opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.

– Make sure to leave the pick snugly to the left of the home button before you carry on.

– Slide an opening pick into the newly created gap.

– Next, gently maneuver the pick beneath the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner, ensuring that only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide toward the home button to fully break free from the bottom adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Now, just let that pick chill to the right of the home button while you move on to the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently twist the opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, helping to break free the last bits of that pesky adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad a bit more.

– Keep a steady hand on the digitizer and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break through the last stubborn adhesive.

– After you’ve carefully separated all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting things back together, be sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Peel away any tape that’s hiding those sneaky LCD screws.

– Let’s get those Phillips screws out of the way to free the LCD.

– Take out the three 4.0 mm screws.

– Don’t forget the one 4.8 mm screw too!

– Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD from its cozy little spot, just enough to get a grip with your fingers.

– Now, give that iPad LCD a little flip like you’re turning the pages of your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the rear case.

– Carefully lay the LCD down on its face so you can easily access those display cables.

– Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Nice and easy, no need to rush.

– Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board and leave it there while you continue working. It’s like a little helper, keeping things in place while you focus on the next step.

– Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Time to say goodbye to that LCD! Let’s get it out of there.

– Peel off any tape that’s hiding the home button ribbon cable connector. Time to free it up so we can keep going!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the little tab on the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector.

– Carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out from the connector without bending or twisting.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets with care.

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive keeping it snug on the rear case. Take your time and be careful; you’ve got this!

– Start by carefully removing the front panel assembly. Take your time and be gentle with it.

– When putting everything back together, give the inside of the front panel a quick wipe to remove any dust or fingerprints. This will keep your display looking fresh and clear.

– If you notice any strange ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches after installing your new display, don’t worry—it’s a common issue. To fix it, just add a super thin layer of insulating tape (like Kapton tape) to the areas on the back of the panel. Most panels come with the right insulation already, so this step might not be necessary.

– Without the right insulation, certain parts of the digitizer can accidentally touch other components, leading to weird touch problems. The insulation prevents this from happening.

– Take your spudger and gently slide it under the right antenna cable, near the edge of the iPad. A little lift should do the trick to disconnect the antenna cable connector. Nice and easy!

– You’ll spot two big strips of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, hiding the tape on the left antenna cable underneath.

– Gently lift the tape off the rear case.

– Gently slide a spudger beneath the left antenna cable, specifically the connector that’s furthest from the edge of the iPad. Give it a little lift to disconnect that antenna cable connector with ease!

– There are six pieces of tape holding the left antenna cable snugly against the rear case. Let’s get that cable free!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift each piece of tape, releasing the antenna cable bit by bit. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. You’re doing great!

– Now, glide that pick to the right to slice through the adhesive like a pro.

– Give the bracket a little nudge away from the speaker to free it from the tape below. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get those Phillips #000 screws out of the way:

– First up, we need to tackle two tiny 1.4 mm screws.

– And don’t forget the lone 2.3 mm screw waiting for its turn!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. It’s like giving your device a little hug!

– Carefully glide the spudger towards the home button recess to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. You’re doing great!

– Put everything back together by following these steps in reverse—easy peasy!

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– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– While you let that adhesive chill for a bit, keep an eye on these delicate spots that prefer a gentle touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a good tug backwards to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free!

– Nestle your iPad on a cozy object so it sits nice and level between those suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the middle of the left edge—one up top and one down below.

– Keep a steady hand on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give a firm push on the top cup to create some serious suction magic!

– Give the blue handle a little nudge forward to lock the arms in place.

– Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until the suction cups start to stretch. Don’t be shy, give it a good turn!

– Check that the suction cups are still buddies, staying perfectly aligned. If they start to wander, just loosen them up a bit and get them back in line.

– Take a chill minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small gap for you to work with.

– If your screen feels a bit chilly, warm things up by running a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp opens up a good-sized gap, gently slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step.

– Once the screen is pleasantly warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it near the left edge—right up close to the frame.

– Gently lift the screen with your suction handle to sneak a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap and wiggle it just enough to start loosening things up.