Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave. Give it some space to warm up evenly.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to heat it up.

– As you go along with the repair, just reheat the iOpener every time it starts to cool down. Another 30 seconds in the microwave should do the trick!

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but make sure to grab it by one of the two flat ends. You definitely don’t want to mess with the hot center. Handle with care and stay safe!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully dunk your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat.

– Submerge the iOpener in the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely soaked.

– Use tongs to fish out the hot iOpener—careful, it’s warm!

– Dry it off thoroughly with a towel.

– Now your iOpener is good to go! Need it hotter? Just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and give it another 2-3 minute soak.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep those pesky shards from spreading and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up nicely.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once that glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you go, and you may find a metal prying tool handy to carefully scoop out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try popping open the front panel.

– There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring near the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little weak spot is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the space between the front glass and plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip to widen the crack is all you need.

– Make sure you’re placing that tool in just the right spot—between the plastic bezel and the glass front panel. It’s like finding the perfect groove, so take your time!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in the gap. Easy does it!

– Gently remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about 0.5 inches in. Take your time—this part can be tricky, but you’re doing great! If you run into any issues, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

– While you’re gently working to free the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, go ahead and heat up your iOpener again. Then, place it on the bottom edge of your iPad to give it some extra heat love. That should help loosen things up nicely!

– While the bottom edge gets its warm-up from the iOpener, start working on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

– Slide the opening pick carefully down the edge, gently peeling away the adhesive as you go. Take your time and let the pick do the work!

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the edge of the iPad to keep freeing that stubborn glue.

– Before you pull the first pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick underneath the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it on the top edge of the iPad to get that adhesive loosened up.

– Heads up—these next steps need a steady hand and a bit of patience.

– You’ll carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, making sure not to mess with the fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive that’s holding it down. Take your time, and you’ll get there!

– Gently slide the opening pick’s tip along the bottom of your iPad, loosening the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady—it’s like peeling a sticker, but with more finesse.

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide the opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– Keep in mind, the antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step safely separates it from the front panel so you don’t accidentally damage it when removing the panel.

– Keep sliding the opening pick under the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully navigating around the home button. Once you’re past it, pop the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep and keep that gentle prying action going.

– Keep sliding that adhesive separator all along the bottom edge of your iPad—slow and steady wins the race!

– Leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass near the home button to keep things steady.

– Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a little warmth therapy, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get the adhesive nice and toasty in that area!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply some solid pressure. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scrapes on you or your device.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Peel away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, then gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner to loosen it up.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to release the adhesive. The adhesive’s a bit thin here because of the digitizer running all along the left side. Keep your pick shallow (about 1/2 inch, or 10mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer—be cool, stay steady.

– Carefully slide the opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the iPad and gently peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Take your time and make sure to go slow, it’s all about precision here.

– Take one of the opening picks and gently wedge it into the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s in, give it a little tug with your fingers to lift it up. Easy does it!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like a little dance move, but for your tech!

– When you’re putting it all back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a sparkling clean before you seal the glass back on. Dust and fingerprints? Not on our watch!

– Loosen and remove the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD snugly in place on the aluminum frame.

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pop up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Swing the LCD open like a little door on its left side and carefully rest it on top of the front glass panel.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector and peel it back with care.

– Gently lift the little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector—think of it like opening a tiny door.

– Carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers. No sudden moves!

– If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector during reassembly, try a force restart by holding down the power button and home button for about ten seconds until the Apple logo pops up.

– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to avoid touching the front of the screen.

– Gently flip up the little flap holding the home button ribbon cable in place on its ZIF connector.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the rear case.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable onto the logic board. Take it slow and steady!

– Gently lift the little flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully pry up the adhesive holding it in place.

– Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully release the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. Take your time, we don’t want any surprises!

– Gently use your fingers to lift the digitizer ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. No need to rush, just a smooth pull.

– Carefully detach the front panel from the iPad, making sure not to yank it. Just a little wiggle and it’ll come free!

– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the Lightning connector to the back case—time to let that connector go!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the Lightning connector cable straight out of its home on the logic board. Take your time—this part’s a little delicate, but you’ve got this!

– Carefully use the flat end of a spudger to lift the Lightning connector cable away from the aluminum frame without rushing it.

– Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its spot in the rear case—easy does it!

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the speaker and Wi-Fi antenna connectors, then lift them straight up off their sockets on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Let’s start by loosening the screws holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the back case:

– Two tiny 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws (small head)

– One 4.15 mm Phillips #00 screw

– One 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screw (wide head)

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the Wi-Fi antenna to carefully pry up the foam adhesive attaching it to the speaker assembly.

– Grab the Wi-Fi antenna and speaker cable with a firm but gentle grip, like you’re holding onto your favorite snack.

– With a little care, lift the cables off the rear case, just enough to give them some breathing room.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you get stuck or want a hand, you can always schedule a repair with us!

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. It’s time for some heat to work its magic!

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it good and toasty.

– As you work, if the iOpener starts cooling down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and warm.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by holding it at one of the flat ends—this will keep you away from the hot center. Safety first, always.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling!

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to fish out the heated iOpener from the water—safety first!

– Dry off your iOpener thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to work its magic.

– Your iOpener is good to go! Need to warm it up again? Just reheat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out the SIM tray.

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy home and say goodbye to it for now, just like that! It’s time to give your iPad a little TLC.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop that old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one. Easy peasy!

– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Just to keep things safe and sound during your repair, throw some tape over that glass to prevent any more accidents.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over your iPad’s display until it’s fully covered. Think of it as giving your device a stylish tape makeover!

– Now, just follow the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up—once the glass starts cracking, it might not stop right away. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the shards. If you find yourself in a jam, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some extra help!

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try opening up the front panel.

– There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little spot is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just barely enough to nudge the crack open.

– Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

– With the plastic opening tool securely in place between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the same spot, right alongside the tool. You’re doing great!

– Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—just like a smooth ninja move.

– While you’re carefully working on peeling back the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another heat-up and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a little extra help.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on peeling away that adhesive from the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, making sure to free up that stubborn adhesive as you go.

– If your opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just gently “roll” it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it to the top edge of your iPad to keep things nice and pliable.

– These next few steps require a bit of extra care, so let’s take it slow and steady.

– Gently detach the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel—be careful not to harm the delicate parts connecting it to the bottom of your device. Stick to the steps closely and you’ll be just fine.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the stubborn adhesive hanging out there.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to break free the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Easy does it!

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully frees the antenna from the front panel so you can remove the panel without causing any damage.

– Keep on peeling away that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to wrap around the home button, then slide it back in until it’s about half an inch (10 mm) deep, right past that home button. You’ve got this!

– Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of the iPad to free it up.

– Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass right by the home button to keep things ready for the next step.

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it along the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that spot, making your next steps smoother.

– Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Now, here’s the scoop: the adhesive in this area is pretty thick, so you might need to channel your inner strength! Take it easy and go slowly—no one wants a slip-up that could lead to an accidental ‘oops’ moment!

– If you find the pick getting a bit clingy with the adhesive, just ‘roll’ it like a pro, as demonstrated in step 9.

– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up—the adhesive is pretty thin here because the digitizer runs along this entire edge. Keep the pick shallow, no more than about 10 mm (half an inch), to avoid any accidental digitizer damage.

– With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work it around to free the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Grab one of those opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then lift it up and hold it with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. It’s like a little dance move for your iPad!

– When putting everything back together, use a microfiber cloth and a burst of compressed air to clear off any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you carefully reinstall the glass. Keep it clean, keep it fresh!

– Unscrew those four little 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.

– Once you’ve got the edge free, rotate the LCD around its left side and carefully set it down on top of the front glass panel.

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector — careful does it!

– Lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– With a gentle tug from your fingers or some trusty tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.

– If your LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after connecting the ZIF connector, just give your iPad a quick reboot! Press and hold the power button and the home button together for at least ten seconds, and watch for the Apple logo to pop up like a friendly ghost.

– Carefully peel the LCD away from the front panel—remember, no poking the screen face!

– Lift the little flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector up and away. It’s like giving it a gentle nudge to get things rolling!

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Take it slow and steady!

– Gently guide the home button ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the rear case.

– Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift up the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable onto the logic board. Slow and steady wins the race!

– Gently lift the little flap holding down both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to free them up.

– Use the flat side of your spudger to gently nudge that adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board.

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’re doing great!

– Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable free from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.

– Lift the front panel off the iPad and set it aside.

– Gently peel back and take off the piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector — no tape left behind!

– Grab your trusty spudger and flip up the little retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable snugly to the logic board.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable. This will release the sticky adhesive that’s keeping it attached to the back aluminum frame.

– Now, carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You got this!

– Gently peel back and take off the tape that’s covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Flip up the little flap that locks the SIM board cable ZIF connector in place.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

– Unscrew the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the SIM board tight to the aluminum frame.

– To put your device back together, just work through these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to secure the front panel. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with us!

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave. Give it some space to work its magic.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about 30 seconds to warm it up.

– As you go through the repair, if the iOpener cools down, just zap it again in the microwave for another 30 seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.

– Bring that water to a rolling boil and then turn off the heat—safety first!

– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, ensuring it gets a good soak.

– Use some tongs to fish out the heated iOpener from the water—watch out, it’s toasty!

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry, making sure it’s all set for action.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is good to go! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the water boiling and soaking process for another 2-3 minutes.

– Grab a SIM eject tool or straighten out a paperclip and pop that SIM tray right out!

– Gently slide out the SIM tray from its slot, and give it a little pull to remove it from the iPad.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, carefully pop it out of the tray and slide in the shiny new one.

– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! To keep those shards in check and avoid any ouch moments, slap some clear packing tape over the glass before you dive in.

– Cover the entire iPad face with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, like wrapping a present — but way cooler.

– Follow the rest of the guide as usual. Heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking while you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug so that it connects well with the iPad’s surface.

– Give it around 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive in and try to lift the front panel.

– There’s a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, located in the upper right corner—about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little sneaky spot!

– Position your tool near the mute button. Now, gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to help widen that crack a bit.