iPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps

Ready to tackle replacing your logic board? Let’s do it! Just follow these steps and you’ll be back up and running in no time. Make sure you have all the tools you need and take it step by step. If you find yourself stuck or need an extra hand, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and give it a quick warm-up.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 2

– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you dive into the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by giving it another thirty seconds in the microwave whenever it starts to cool down.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 3

– Grab the iOpener by one of its flat ends and take it out of the microwave—careful not to touch the hot center!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to take a little dip with your iOpener.

– Heat that water until it starts bubbling like it’s ready to party! Then turn off the heat.

– Carefully drop the iOpener into the warm water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s snuggled in there completely!

– Using tongs (safety first!), fish out the warm iOpener from its watery bath.

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry to prep it for action.

– All set! Your iOpener is good to go! If it needs a little reheating, just repeat the water boiling dance for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 5

– Grab a SIM eject tool or just straighten out a paperclip and gently pop that SIM tray out like a pro.

Step 6

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and give it a warm send-off as it leaves the iPad.

– If you’re switching out the SIM card, just pop that old one out of its tray and slide the shiny new one right in!

Step 7

– If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully sealed.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

Step 8

– Time to get cozy! Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it snuggles nicely with the surface for optimal warmth.

– Now, let the iOpener chill on your iPad for about 90 seconds. This will get things nice and toasty before we dive into opening up that front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 9

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip to start widening the crack—easy does it!

Step 10

– Make sure to position the tool just right—sneak it in between the plastic display bezel and the glass front panel.

Step 11

– Hold the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in the gap. Easy does it!

Step 12

– Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch in—to keep things moving smoothly.

Step 13

– As you tackle the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener another heat-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 14

– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start working on loosening the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it gently separate the adhesive as you move along.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 15

– If the opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep that sticky stuff at bay.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 16

– Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking again!

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then slide it up to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep the heat going!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 17

– Alright, get ready for a careful approach here. These next steps need some precision, so stay sharp!

– You’re going to need to gently release the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel. The trick is to do this without damaging the sensitive parts that attach the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time with these steps—patience is key!

Step 18

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that sticky adhesive like a pro.

Step 19

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!

Step 20

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna area (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide your opening pick all the way in.

– Gently push the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– Keep in mind, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step carefully detaches it from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.

Step 21

– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, reinsert the pick to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 22

– Keep peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.

– Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass right by the home button to keep things steady.

Step 23

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat up the adhesive in that spot.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad. Give it a little pull to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This area has some pretty strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and stay focused, making sure not to slip and cause any harm to yourself or your trusty iPad.

– If your opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the sticky stuff, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 25

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and carefully slide your opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 26

– Carefully slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, gently loosening the adhesive as you move. The adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running the full length on this side. Keep the pick shallow—no more than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

Step 27

– Slide the opening pick gently along the bottom left corner where it’s tucked under the iPad’s edge to loosen the adhesive there.

Step 28

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad, then snag it with your fingers like a pro.

Step 29

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting everything back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

Step 30

– Unscrew those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 31

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Now, rotate that LCD along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. You’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 32

– Carefully lift the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector using the pointed end of your trusty spudger.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 33

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.

– With a little finesse from your fingers or some handy tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.

– If your iPad’s LCD screen is feeling a bit shy and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, don’t panic! Just hold down the power button and the home button for about ten seconds until you see that charming Apple logo pop up. You’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 34

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen. You’ve got this!

Step 35

Step 36

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 37

– Grab those trusty tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 38

– Carefully wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 39

– Gently slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the tape that’s holding down the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board, and peel it back like a pro.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 40

– Gently lift the little flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

Step 41

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully break up the adhesive holding it down.

– Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 42

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 43

– With a gentle tug from your fingers, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift off the front panel from the iPad, revealing the treasures inside.

Step 44

– Gently peel back the electrical tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s like unwrapping a little surprise!

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors. This will free the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 45

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to break the adhesive bond holding it to the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 46

– Gently peel back and remove the tape that’s covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector to unlock it.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 47

– Alright, let’s get this party started! First up, gently disconnect these connectors from their cozy little homes on the logic board:

– Wi-Fi antenna cable

– Speaker connector cable.

– Dock/Lightning connector cable.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Step 48

– Let’s get to work! First up, we need to take out the seven screws holding the logic board snugly against the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!

– Six of those screws are 2.1mm Phillips #00, and one is a 2.5mm Phillips #00. Gather your tools and let’s make this happen!

Step 49

– Grab the logic board by the edge closest to the dock connector, then gently slide it down toward the bottom of the iPad. Easy does it!

Step 50

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you hit any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Logic Board Replacement

Success!
To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order. Don’t forget to grab our handy iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to help you reattach that front panel like a pro! And if you find yourself in a jam, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert assistance!

iPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps

Follow this clear, step-by-step guide to swap out the Lightning connector and get your device charging like new again.

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get it warmed up and ready to work its magic.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 2

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you tackle the repair, remember to pop the iOpener back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 3

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the toasty center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully cover your iOpener.

– Heat the water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it hot on the stove.

– Submerge the iOpener in the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely underwater.

– Use tongs to carefully lift the warmed iOpener out of the water.

– Give it a good dry off with a towel so it’s ready to go.

– Your iOpener is all set! If it cools down before you’re done, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps to warm it back up.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 5

– If you find yourself with a cracked display glass, let’s keep that breakage from going wild and avoid any accidental finger cuts while you work. Grab some packing tape and cover that glass like it’s a precious painting.

– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape on your iPad’s display until the entire front is nicely wrapped up.

– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass starts to crack, it may just want to keep cracking. You might have to get a bit hands-on with a metal prying tool to help scoop out those glass pieces.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it hugs the surface well.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try popping open the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 7

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge it open a bit.

Step 8

– Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

Step 9

– Slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to the plastic opening tool, which should be wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel—think of it as gently sneaking your way in without causing a fuss.

Step 10

– Take out that handy plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick a little deeper, about half an inch under the front glass. You’ve got this!

Step 11

– As you tackle the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener a little reheat love, then pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad to keep the good times rolling.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 12

– While you’re warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, gently start peeling back the adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.

– Take that trusty opening pick and slide it down the side of the iPad, easing the adhesive away as you go.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 13

– If your opening pick is having a tough time with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 14

– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back like it’s on a reunion tour.

– Time to give your iOpener a little love! Re-heat it and then place it at the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and cozy.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 15

– Heads up: the next steps need you to be super careful.

– You’ll need to gently peel off the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow these steps closely.

Step 16

– Gently run the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!

Step 17

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

Step 18

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and cabled to the bottom of the iPad. This step frees it from the front panel, so you can remove the panel without risking antenna damage.

Step 19

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to glide around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) past the button to keep things moving smoothly.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 20

– Keep peeling away that sticky goodness along the bottom edge of your iPad until it’s all set free!

– Slide the opening pick in and let it rest snugly under the front glass by the home button for a smooth separation.

Step 21

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently heat up that adhesive and get things loosened.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 22

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This section’s adhesive is pretty tough, so you might need to use some muscle. Take your time and be careful—no one wants to accidentally hurt themselves or their iPad!

– If your opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the gooey stuff, just give it a little ‘roll’ as demonstrated in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 23

– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, carefully loosening the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here because the digitizer runs along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

Step 25

– Gently slide the opening pick that’s tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

Step 26

– With an opening pick in hand, gently nudge up the bottom right corner of your iPad and grasp it with your fingers. You’ve got this!

Step 27

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting it back together, give the LCD a quick once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to shoo away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

Step 28

– Unscrew those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame. You’re almost there!

Step 29

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right side of the LCD from the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and rest it lovingly on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 30

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift away the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 31

– Lift the little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector—think of it like opening a tiny door.

– Gently wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.

– If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a force restart by holding down the power button and home button together for about ten seconds until the Apple logo pops up.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 32

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without making contact with its surface—you’re aiming for a smooth getaway!

Step 33

Step 34

– Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle nudge.

Step 35

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Keep it steady and make sure it comes out smoothly – no rush!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 36

– Gently guide the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy little spot in the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 37

– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift and peel away the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 38

– Lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.

Step 39

– Grab that trusty flat end of your spudger and gently pry apart the adhesive holding down the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Now, give the digitizer ribbon cable a straight pull, just like you’re yanking on a stubborn jar lid, and remove it from its cozy home on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 40

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the cable to the back aluminum case.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 41

– Gently use your fingers to pop the digitizer ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Lift off the front panel from the iPad carefully.

Step 42

Step 43

– With the flat end of your trusty spudger, gently nudge the plastic spacer away from the rear case. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Time to move on!’

– Now, go ahead and lift that plastic spacer right out of the iPad. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 44

– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the Lightning connector in place on the back case. Time to get those screws out!

Step 45

– Gently grab your trusty spudger and slide the flat end underneath the Lightning connector cable. Give it a little nudge and pry it straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 46

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the Lightning connector cable away from the aluminum frame. Take your time, you’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Lightning Connector Replacement

Step 47

– To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps in the opposite order! Don’t forget to grab our handy iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to help you stick that front panel back on like a pro.

Success!
To put your device back together, just reverse the steps you followed and check out our guide for using the iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips to secure that front panel. Remember, if you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair for some extra help!

Apple Pencil Teardown

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 13 Steps

Ever since the iPad first showed up, Apple has insisted it’s designed to be used without a stylus. So when the iPad Pro arrived with a $99 stylus accessory, we couldn’t help but take a closer look. What’s the deal with the Apple Pencil? We’ve heard it’s packed with cool features, but we’re more curious about what’s inside that sleek white tube. Let’s dive in and see what makes it tick! If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Apple’s keeping things under wraps about the finer details, but here’s the lowdown on what we do know:

– Bluetooth 4.1

– Scans at twice the speed of your usual finger swipes

– Battery life? Up to 12 hours—plenty of juice to last through the day

– Dimensions: 175 mm (L) x 8.9 mm (D)

– Charges via a Lightning connector

Step 2

– Let’s dive into the world of styluses! We’ll take a moment to compare a few cool options out there.

– First up: the Microsoft Surface Pen, which is a stylish companion for your Surface Pro 4.

– Next, we have the original ‘iPad Pencil’ by 53. It’s designed to work wonders with their Paper app and shares many features with the latest Apple Pencil.

Step 3

– Apple has generously included a spare tip and a handy Lightning-to-Lightning adapter (a last-minute addition) to save you from the hassle of charging your Pencil directly from your iPad. Pretty thoughtful, right?

– The Lightning Connector cap clicks into place with magnets, but let’s be honest, it’s probably going to disappear before the month is out.

– Pop off the cap, and you’ll spot a fresh, never-before-seen model number: A1603. Say hello to the new Pencil!

Step 4

– Let’s dive into the Pencil! Start by giving the nib a few quick twists, and off it comes without a fuss.

– Once you’re in, take a gander at the tiny metal piece nestled snugly at the tip—it’s there to help the Pencil get as close to the screen as possible.

– On the iPad Pro, the digitizer is quite the clever little gadget, figuring out the distance from each emitter to the screen and calculating the Pencil’s angle like a pro!

Step 5

– Let’s take a closer look at the eraser Lightning Connector by gently warming things up with our trusty iOpener.

– Even after warming up the situation with our iOpener, that Lightning Connector assembly still seems a bit stubborn! A quick tug does the trick and frees it from the Pencil’s embrace.

– But oops… it looks like we might have snagged a flex cable in the process…

– Honestly, we have a feeling this teardown won’t be one of those simple ones where everything just snaps back together seamlessly.

Tools Used
  1. iOpenerApple Pencil Teardown

Step 6

– After carefully examining the top and bottom sections and not spotting any obvious entry points, we decided to take a bold step and bring out the big tools.

– Slicing through the plastic shell of the Bic Apple Pencil uncovers its ink cartridge and metal casing.

Step 7

– Alright, that was quite the task! After cleaning up the plastic dust and grabbing a quick burrito break, let’s take a moment to admire our handiwork: the Pencil, now without its case.

– A quick peek inside the metal cylinder shows a tiny tri-point screw, just like the ones used in Apple Watches.

– Right below that tiny screw, you’ll notice some small contacts—these are likely for Apple’s internal testing purposes.

Step 8

– A little more cutting and prying, and after a quick chat about laser cutters, we finally break through a second layer—this one made of metal.

– And look what we’ve uncovered! The antenna and battery assembly are now in sight. No graphite to be found at the core of this Pencil.

– This little powerhouse is a 3.82 V, 0.329 Wh lithium-ion battery, packing just 5% of the charge of an iPhone 6s battery.

Step 9

– Now that we’ve removed the metal enclosure, let’s pop off that antenna, showcasing the iconic Apple black and gold colors!

– We also get a closer look at the ribbon cable we just sliced through… It connects between the Lightning port and the battery, possibly hosting those battery charging ICs we suspect.

– We’ve spotted more chips at the opposite end, so it’s time to say goodbye to the battery and dive into the exciting parts—like the tiny logic board!

Step 10

– Is this a logic board for tiny tech? Almost! Weighing just 1.0 gram, it’s the smallest one we’ve come across. Now that the tough part is done, let’s check out what makes the Pencil so clever:

– STMicroelectronics STML151UCY6 Ultra-low-power 32-bit RISC ARM-based Cortex-M3 MCU

– STMicroelectronics STMLS05 5-channel PMOS load switches

– STMicroelectronics STM32L052T8 32-Bit ARM Cortex-M0+ Microcontroller with 64 Kb flash

– Maxim Integrated MAX11290 24-bit delta-sigma A/D converter (probably)

– Cambridge Silicon Radio (Qualcomm) CSR1012A05 Bluetooth smart IC

– Bosch Sensortec BMA282 accelerometer

– Maxim Integrated MAX44284 high precision current-sense amplifier

Step 11

– Now, let’s revisit that metal casing to carefully pluck out the pen nib and uncover its magical sensor.

– As we peel back one of the tiniest boards we’ve encountered, we stumble upon a trio of matching ticks. Yep, three on the end of the pen assembly and three on that little board.

– It’s quite likely that this chip holds the key to unlocking the secrets of how this gadget works…

– If we had a crystal ball, we’d guess these components are responsible for sensing pressure by monitoring the movement between these two pieces.

– The chip reads 8529043 343S00008-A1—probably a custom STMicroelectronics controller specifically for the nib.

Step 12

– Diving deeper into the tip might not be the best idea, but no worries! We’ve got a clear view with some awesome X-ray imaging magic.

– Just for fun, we also took a peek at that tiny folded logic board, plus the Lightning Connector and cap.

– Check out that little spring-loaded tip, and the two hidden emitters snug inside the shaft!

Step 13

– Apple Pencil Repairability 1 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair):

– If your pen nib or cap gets worn out (or goes on a little adventure and gets lost), don’t worry! You can easily replace them.

– Now, let’s be real—the pencil is not designed for a spa day. Opening it up for repairs? That’s a tricky business that could end up destroying your beloved device.

– The layers of plastic and metal holding everything together are like a super fortress; getting them apart without causing a ruckus is nearly impossible.

– And that battery? It’s good for about 12 hours of fun, but swapping it out is a no-go, which means the device has a bit of a limited party life.

Success!

iPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps

Follow this guide to swap out that LCD like a pro! It’s easier than you think, and you’ll be back to enjoying your device in no time. If you hit a snag and need a hand, just schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave to get things warmed up and ready to roll.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 2

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready for action.

– As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the two flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot middle part.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.

– Bring the water to a roaring boil and then switch off the heat.

– Carefully lower the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s soaking up all that heat!

– Use some trusty tongs to pull the iOpener out of the bubbly water—safety first!

– Give the iOpener a gentle pat down with a towel until it’s nice and dry.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If you ever need to give it another heat boost, just repeat the hot water dance for 2-3 minutes after boiling again. If the going gets tough, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 5

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully sealed.

– Try to follow the rest of the guide as usual. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you might need to carefully scoop out the glass pieces using a metal prying tool.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to open the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 7

– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just the tip, enough to nudge it open a bit.

Step 8

– Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Step 9

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick right beside it to ease into the gap.

Step 10

– Take that plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!

Step 11

– As you work on loosening the sticky stuff on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener a little reheat love, and pop it back on the bottom edge of your iPad.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 12

– As the bottom edge soaks up some warmth from the iOpener, let’s get cracking on freeing that pesky adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the opening pick down the right edge of your iPad, making sure to release the adhesive as you go. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 13

– If your opening pick seems to be a bit shy and gets stuck in the adhesive, gently ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to help release the sticky stuff.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 14

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again and move it over to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up there.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 15

– Heads up: the next steps need some serious care and attention.

– You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate parts connecting it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.

Step 16

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

Step 17

– Gently glide the edge of your trusty opening pick along the bottom side of the iPad, freeing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna like a pro.

Step 18

– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to that handy home button—pop that opening pick back in as deep as it can go.

– Now, slide that pick to the right and watch as it releases the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.

– Just a heads up: the antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is key for detaching the antenna from the front panel, making sure that when you lift off that panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.

Step 19

– Keep on peeling away that adhesive at the bottom of the iPad! Gently tug on the opening pick until it wraps around the home button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) past the button. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 20

– Keep peeling back that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad—you’re doing great!

– Nestle the opening pick right underneath the front glass near the home button, and let it hang out there for now.

Step 21

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently soften the adhesive in that spot.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 22

– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, pulling it out just a tad to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is quite sturdy, so you might need to use a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and stay steady—let’s keep both you and your iPad safe and sound.

– If the pick starts to feel stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 23

– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around that tricky top left corner.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad’s left edge, carefully loosening the adhesive as you move. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no more than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

Step 25

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, give a gentle nudge to free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!

Step 26

– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you’ve pried it open a bit, use your fingers to hold it steady. You’ve got this!

Step 27

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You got this!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to give that LCD a little love with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to keep it sparkling clean before reattaching the glass.

Step 28

– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

Step 29

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently nudge the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. It’s like giving it a little lift-off!

– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and lay it down comfortably on top of the front glass panel. It’s a cozy little spot for it to rest!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 30

– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA LCD Replacement

Step 31

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.

– Using your fingers or some trusty tweezers, carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.

– If your iPad is feeling a little shy and the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reattaching the ZIF connector, just hold down the power and home buttons together for about ten seconds. Wait for that delightful Apple logo to pop up and let you know it’s back in action!

Step 32

– To put your device back together, just follow these instructions in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you hit a snag or want a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

Success!
To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you run into any trouble, remember you can always schedule a repair with us!

iPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 45 Steps

Get ready to give your device a little makeover by swapping out the Home button assembly! It’s simpler than it sounds, and with this guide, you’ll be back to tapping and swiping in no time. Just follow the steps, and if you find yourself in a bind, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some extra support!

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 2

– Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spa treatment in the microwave!

– As you work your magic on the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener—when it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that sizzling hot center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.

– Pop the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Carefully fish out the heated iOpener using tongs.

– Give it a good dry-off with a towel.

– And there you go—your iOpener is all warmed up and ready to go! Need to reheat? Just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 5

– If your display glass is cracked, keep things safe and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the entire face of the iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape to hold everything in place.

– Try to follow the rest of the guide as usual. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, and you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a nice little press to ensure it’s making good contact with the surface.

– Allow the bag to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you get started on opening that front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 7

– Notice that there’s a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (or roughly 5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little flaw!

– Get your tool lined up with the mute button. Now, gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just the tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge!

Step 8

– Ensure you pop that tool right in its happy place—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. It’s like a cozy little spot for your tool to get the job done!

Step 9

– Gently wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Then, slide a plastic opening pick into the gap, snugly right next to the tool. You’re just creating a little space here, so take your time—patience is key!

Step 10

– Carefully remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, pushing it in about 0.5 inches deep. Take your time, and remember, if this step gets tricky, you can always schedule a repair for extra hands!

Step 11

– As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 12

– While the bottom edge gets cozy under the heat from the iOpener, start loosening up the adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the edge of the iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you go. Take your time, you’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 13

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently ‘rolling’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking through the sticky stuff.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 14

– Before you start prying open the iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will keep the sticky stuff from making things tricky when you remove the first pick from the bottom corner.

– Give the iOpener another heat-up, then slide it to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up a bit more.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 15

– Alright, it’s time to take it slow and steady for the next few steps. Precision is key here, so stay focused.

– You’ll need to carefully peel off the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Just make sure you don’t damage the delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. Follow the steps closely and you’ll be fine!

Step 16

– Gently work the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive hiding there.

Step 17

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ll be releasing the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna in place – it’s a smooth move, trust us.

Step 18

– Alright, once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick back in to its full depth like a pro.

– Now, give that pick a little shimmy to the right to break free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna glued to the front glass.

– Just a heads up, the antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is key to disconnecting the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, you won’t accidentally harm the antenna. You’re doing great!

Step 19

– Keep gently easing the adhesive along the iPad’s bottom, and as you pull the opening pick out, make sure it wraps around the home button. Once you’re past the button, slide the pick back in, about half an inch (10 mm), to keep things moving smoothly.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 20

– Keep peeling the adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad—almost there!

– Slip the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there for now.

Step 21

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up again, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently loosen that stubborn adhesive with some warm vibes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 22

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is quite the stubborn one, so be prepared to put in some elbow grease. Take your time, and remember to keep your fingers clear of any potential mishaps or damage to your iPad.

– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the gooey adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 23

– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 24

– Gently glide that opening pick along the left side of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go! It’s nice and thin here thanks to the digitizer stretching all the way down the left edge. Just a friendly tip: keep that pick no deeper than half an inch (about 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

Step 25

– With your trusty opening pick still nestled at the bottom edge of the iPad, gently work to break free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great—keep it up!

Step 26

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad, then snag it with your fingers like a pro.

Step 27

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give the front glass a gentle twist away from the device—like a friendly handshake!

– When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little spa treatment, removing any dust bunnies or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.

Step 28

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame—careful, these little guys are important!

Step 29

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, give that LCD a little rotation around its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 30

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 31

– First things first, give that retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector a little flip up – it’s like opening a tiny door!

– Now, using your fingers or some tweezers, gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– If your LCD screen is playing hard to get and doesn’t light up after you reconnect the ZIF connector, don’t panic! Just give your iPad a little force restart by holding down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until you see that lovely Apple logo. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 32

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, but make sure to avoid touching the screen. A little care goes a long way here!

Step 33

Step 34

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

Step 35

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board. No rush—just take it slow and steady!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 36

– Gently pop the home button ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the back case.

Step 37

– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 38

– Gently flip up the little retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

Step 39

– Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the stubborn adhesive holding it down.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—steady hands win here!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 40

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to lift off the adhesive that’s holding the cable in place against the rear aluminum case.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 41

– With a gentle touch, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. It just needs a little encouragement!

– Carefully lift away the front panel from the iPad, like you’re unveiling a surprise gift. Easy does it!

Step 42

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about one minute on the highest power setting (or just thirty seconds if you’ve got the newer gel-filled iOpener).

– Place the iOpener gently over the home button, right at the front edge of the display.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Home Button Assembly Replacement

Step 43

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the front panel—take it slow and steady!

Step 44

– Slide the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and gently pry upwards to break the adhesive seal on that side.

– Now, do the same on the left side to free it from the adhesive. Nice and easy.

– Lift the home button mount off the front panel. You’re almost there!

Step 45

– To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. Don’t forget to check out our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide for a smooth front panel reattachment. If you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us!

Success!

iPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps

Follow this guide to swap out the headphone jack board like a pro.

Step 1

– Place the iOpener in the middle of the microwave. This is where the magic happens!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 2

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things warm and ready.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 3

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but be sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to avoid that hot center. Safety first!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.

– Carefully dunk your iOpener into the hot water for 2 to 3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to fish the iOpener out of the water—hot stuff!

– Give it a good towel dry so it’s ready to go without any drips.

– And just like that, your iOpener is warmed up and ready. Need to heat it again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 5

– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and give that SIM tray a gentle push to pop it out. You’ve got this!

Step 6

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and say goodbye to it for now!

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just give it a little nudge to pop it out of the tray, and then slide in the shiny new one!

Step 7

– If your display glass is cracked, keep things safe and avoid any additional mess by taping over the glass before you start working.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up.

– Follow the rest of the guide as usual, but heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass pieces out.

Step 8

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s snugly in contact with the surface. We want it to feel right at home!

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to pop open that front panel. Patience is key, my friend!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 9

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in just enough to start prying the seal open.

Step 10

– Position the tool carefully—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. A little patience here will save you from any headaches later!

Step 11

– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right beside the tool. You’re doing great!

Step 12

– Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, going about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!

Step 13

– As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it neatly along the bottom edge to keep things toasty.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 14

– While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, let’s kick things off by tackling the adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you go along.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 15

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, no worries! Just ‘roll’ the pick gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 16

– Before you pop that first pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, sneak a second one under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Heat up the iOpener again, and then gently slide it to the top edge of the iPad.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 17

– These next steps are a bit tricky, so take your time and be extra careful.

– You’ll need to gently detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna in place on the front panel. It’s a delicate job, as you don’t want to damage the parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Go slow, and follow the steps closely to avoid any mishaps.

Step 18

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.

Step 19

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, loosening the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time—this part’s all about precision!

Step 20

– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge or just next to the home button), gently slide your opening pick back in to its full depth.

– Now, give that pick a little slide to the right, freeing the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass.

– Remember, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial as it safely disconnects the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, the antenna stays intact and happy.

Step 21

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to get around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, pop the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep and keep going.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 22

– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff all along the bottom edge of the iPad like you’re on a mission!

– Pop that opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.

Step 23

– Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and warm, so it’s ready to be tackled.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out a bit as you navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some muscle. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches on you or your iPad.

– If your pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 25

– Peel back the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. Easy does it—keep that pick moving smoothly!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 26

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad, easing off that adhesive as you go. This area’s got a thin strip of adhesive, thanks to the digitizer running along the whole edge. Just make sure you don’t push the pick too deep (no more than 10mm), or you might mess with the digitizer. Take your time, and you’ll do great!

Step 27

– Keep that opening pick tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently loosen the adhesive near the bottom left corner.

Step 28

– Grab one of your opening picks and carefully wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.

Step 29

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before sealing it up. A clean screen is a happy screen!

Step 30

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame—time to get those little guys out of the way!

Step 31

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 32

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 33

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick of your fingers.

– With a bit of finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable from its cozy home on the logic board.

– If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after reattaching the ZIF connector, you might need to give your iPad a little pep talk. Hold down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until that sweet Apple logo appears. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 34

– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, but keep your hands clear of the screen itself. It’s like a gentle lift, not a yank, so take your time!

Step 35

Step 36

– Gently lift the flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Take your time and be careful – it’ll give you access to what you need!

Step 37

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 38

– Carefully unplug the home button ribbon cable from its snug little spot in the rear case. A gentle tug should do the trick!

Step 39

– Grab your spudger and gently use the tip to lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place on the logic board. Easy does it!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 40

– Gently lift the little flap on each of the digitizer ribbon ZIF connectors—think of it like opening a tiny trapdoor for your cables.

Step 41

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to loosen up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place. Just a little wiggle should do the trick!

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its slots on the logic board. Keep it steady to avoid any damage.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 42

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 43

– Gently use your fingers to wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Lift off the front panel from your iPad with care.

Step 44

– Peel back the electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector and set it aside for later.

– Use the spudger tip to gently flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable in place on the logic board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 45

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack cable to break the adhesive bond keeping it stuck to the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack cable straight out of its connector on the logic board. Easy peasy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 46

– Gently peel back the tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It’s like opening a secret compartment.

– Using the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Take your time, this is the delicate part.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 47

– Unscrew the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that hold the SIM board to the aluminum frame — steady hands, you got this!

Step 48

– While keeping the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, gently lift the SIM board out of the iPad.

Step 49

– Gently peel away that pesky adhesive tape hiding the headphone jack assembly. You got this!

Step 50

– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly—time to set that connection free!

Step 51

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the front-facing camera off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to loosen the adhesive holding down the camera cable.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 52

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Now, slide the tip of the spudger beneath the microphone ribbon cable and pop it right out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

– With a smooth motion, glide the spudger to the left to break the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug against the headphone jack assembly. You’re on a roll!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 53

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the antenna connector cable right out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly board.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 54

– Gently lift the flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable in place on the headphone jack assembly board. Take your time, it’s not going anywhere!

– Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Don’t rush, we got this!

Step 55

– Let’s get rolling! First up, you’ll want to take out these screws from the headphone jack assembly:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws—easy peasy!

– Next, grab your tools for two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws!

– And finally, don’t forget the two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws—you’re almost there!

Step 56

– Gently grip the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and give it a little tug, pulling it straight down along the iPad’s side, towards the bottom of the device. You’ve got this!

Step 57

– Firmly grab the headphone jack assembly with both hands and gently lift it out of the iPad, keeping an eye on any sneaky cables that might be in the way.

Step 58

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the rear camera connector located beneath the headphone jack assembly and lift it off its socket with a little flair.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement

Step 59

– The headphone jack board is still hanging out, waiting for its turn to shine. Let’s get it out of there!

Success!
Ready to put your device back together? Simply reverse these steps and grab our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick that front panel back on like a pro. If you run into any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!

iPad Pro 12.9″ 3rd Gen USB-C port Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 6 Steps

Step 1

– Looks like our iPad’s port took a swim and got totally corroded—no wonder it stopped charging.

– Heads up: no photos this time. Didn’t plan on making a guide, but after fixing it, I figured sharing the process could help someone out.

– You’ll want a few essentials: a 00 Phillips screwdriver bit, a slim razor blade, a thin metal spudger, guitar picks or popsicle sticks, and a way to warm up your iPad. I grabbed a replacement USB-C port and some pre-cut adhesive strips to make things smoother.

– It took me about two hours. I’ve swapped iPhone screens and batteries before, so if you’re patient, careful, and have some repair experience, this is doable.

– This isn’t a beginner’s project, but it’s not rocket science either. Just be comfortable handling tiny screws and steady with your cutting tools.

Step 2

– The LCD is stuck down with some seriously tough adhesive, and yeah, it’s a bit of a pain. Heat is your best friend here to soften that stubborn glue. First thing, power off your iPad.

– There are plenty of ways to warm up the adhesive. I used a large flat non-stick coated aluminum electric pancake griddle with a temperature dial, plus an accurate thermometer to keep an eye on things.

– I set the griddle to 135°F according to my trusty thermometer and let it sit for 10 minutes to make sure the temp was steady.

– Next, place your iPad screen-side up on the 135°F griddle. Cover it with a fluffy towel to trap the heat and let it warm up for 10 minutes. The towel helps the whole iPad hit that 135°F sweet spot.

– Starting at the lower right corner near the USB-C port, carefully slide a thin razor blade under the screen to start slicing through the glue. Keep the blade shallow—no deeper than 1/8 inch.

– Once you free that corner, grab a thin metal spudger and work your way around the iPad, cutting through the adhesive. Remember, don’t go deeper than 1/8 inch to avoid nicking the digitizer cables, and steer clear of the front camera area—there’s hardly any glue there, so no need to cut. Try to finish this first pass while the iPad is still warm.

– Use guitar picks, popsicle sticks, or whatever slim tools you have handy to keep the screen from sticking back down as you cut through the glue.

– When all the adhesive is sliced, gently pry the screen away from the frame, starting at the USB port side. You’ll probably need to cut through some glue strands as you go.

Step 3

– The screen is connected by a few cables. I kept those in place while replacing the port—no need to mess with them.

– Now, gently move the screen to the side and unscrew the four screws that are holding the USB-C port to the frame. Don’t forget to remove the left and right spring clips around the port too.

– There’s a shield covering the cable that connects the port to the iPad’s insides. Take out the 5 screws securing the shield and keep track of which screws go in which holes—they’re different sizes.

– Once the shield is out of the way, you can pop the USB-C port connector free. Peel it off the iPad—it’s stuck on there with adhesive.

– Place the new connector into the frame, then connect it back to the electronics. Reattach the screws and clips, and press the cable back down. In my case, the adhesive from the iPad stayed on, so the new port’s cable stuck just fine with the old adhesive.

Step 4

– Now that the new port is all snug and secure, I plugged in a charger and watched with delight as the system powered up and started charging like a champ!

– I also took a moment to check that the iPad was functioning beautifully, including the touch screen. Just a heads-up, though—the Face ID sensor was a bit shy and threw an error saying it wasn’t working. No biggie, that’s totally normal!

Step 5

– Once again, power down the iPad.

– Next up, remove the old LCD adhesive. No need to get it spotless—just grab some tweezers and peel off those adhesive strips.

– You’ll notice some sticky residue left on the LCD and frame. Skipping the cleanup here is totally fine, but if you want, go ahead and clean it up.

– Now, stick on the new custom adhesive strips, but keep that top plastic layer on for now.

– After applying the new strips, give the iPad another quick test, then power it down again.

– Finally, peel off the last plastic layer from the adhesive and gently set the LCD back into the frame. Take your time—this adhesive is strong, so you’ve basically got one shot to nail it.

Step 6

– To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps and follow these instructions in the opposite order. You’ve got this! If you run into any tricky spots, remember, you’re never alone—just schedule a repair for some expert help.

Success!
To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—easy peasy! And if things get tricky, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us at Salvation Repair.

iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps

Heads up: this guide covers swapping out just the plain front panel. If you’ve got a Front Panel Assembly replacement part, pause before taking off the home button from your old panel, then simply follow the steps in reverse to pop in your new assembly.

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave to get it warmed up just right.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 2

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds and let the magic happen!

– As you tackle the repair, keep an eye on your iOpener. If it starts to lose its warmth, give it another quick thirty seconds in the microwave. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or a pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.

– Heat that water until it’s bubbling like a hot spring, then go ahead and turn off the heat.

– Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely submerged – it’s time for a sauna!

– Using tongs (or your best kitchen skills), lift that warm iOpener out of the water.

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry – we want it to be all set for action!

– And voilà! Your iOpener is primed and ready to go! If you find it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the water boiling dance for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 5

– Got a cracked display? No worries! Just to be safe and avoid any accidental cuts while you’re working, stick some tape over the glass to keep it from shattering further.

– Grab some clear packing tape and cover the entire iPad display with overlapping strips. Make sure the whole surface is taped up to prevent any more damage.

– Now, keep following the guide step by step. But heads up—once that glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you work. If it gets tricky, you might need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop the glass out.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try opening the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 7

– Hey there! There’s a tiny little spot in the iPad’s adhesive ring, right up in the upper right corner—about 2.0 inches (that’s roughly 5 cm) from the top. We’re going to take advantage of this little opening!

– Now, let’s line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to create a little space. You’re doing great!

Step 8

– Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

Step 9

– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the space right beside that tool. You’re on the right track!

Step 10

– Carefully pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—to keep things moving smoothly.

Step 11

– As you tackle the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another heat-up session and then place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 12

– As the iOpener warms up that bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, giving that adhesive a little nudge to break free as you go.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 13

– If the opening pick finds itself glued down by the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad, and keep on working to peel away that sticky stuff.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 14

– Before you pull the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick underneath the right edge of the front glass. This will keep the adhesive from sticking back together on you.

– Re-heat the iOpener, then move it to the top edge of the iPad. You’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 15

– Alright, folks! The next few steps are a bit tricky, so let’s take it slow and steady.

– You’ll need to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super gentle with those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow these steps closely, and you’ve got this!

Step 16

– Gently work the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, carefully peeling away the adhesive there.

Step 17

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive over that Wi-Fi antenna like a pro.

Step 18

– After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button—slide your opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and cabled to the bottom of the iPad. This step disconnects it from the front panel so you can remove the panel without causing any damage to the antenna.

Step 19

– Keep going with that adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to glide around the home button, and then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past the home button. You’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 20

– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the entire bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.

– Slide the opening pick under the front glass close to the home button and let it hang out there.

Step 21

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help to cozy up the adhesive in that area.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 22

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scrapes—safety first!

– If the pick starts sticking to the adhesive, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 23

– Keep working that adhesive free along the top edge of the iPad, then glide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running the length of this side. Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (½ inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.

Step 25

– Slide the opening pick, still tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge, to carefully loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

Step 26

– Grab an opening pick and gently pop up the bottom right corner of the iPad, then hold it steady with your fingers.

Step 27

– Grasp the iPad firmly by the top and bottom right corners, then gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting things back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before sealing it up.

Step 28

– Loosen and take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. Keep them safe—these little guys are key!

Step 29

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right side of the LCD from the iPad.

– Swing the LCD up and around its left edge, then carefully rest it on top of the front glass panel.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 30

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that sneaky tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 31

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a treasure chest!

– With a little finesse—either your fingers or some trusty tweezers—carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.

– If your iPad decides to play hard to get and the LCD screen refuses to light up after you’ve reconnected the ZIF connector, don’t panic! Just give it a friendly force restart by holding down the power button and home button for about ten seconds until that glorious Apple logo makes its appearance!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 32

– Careful now, grab the LCD by the edges and gently lift it away from the front panel—no touching the front screen!

Step 33

Step 34

– Lift the little retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector up and away. You’ve got this!

Step 35

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 36

– Carefully guide the home button ribbon cable out from its snug little spot in the rear case. You’ve got this!

Step 37

– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift up the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 38

– Gently lift the little flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

Step 39

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up the adhesive lurking beneath that digitizer ribbon cable. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come out!’

– Once it’s loosened, pull that digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. You’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 40

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 41

– With a gentle touch, slide your fingers under the digitizer ribbon cable and carefully lift it out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Now, it’s time to liberate the front panel from the iPad. Go ahead and remove it with confidence!

Step 42

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave and heat it up for one minute on high power (or just 30 seconds if you’re rocking the newer gel-filled iOpener).

– Set the warm iOpener right over the home button at the front edge of the display.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 43

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the front panel like you’re unveiling a surprise!

Step 44

– Slide the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and gently pry upwards to break free the adhesive on that side.

– Repeat the same move on the left side to loosen the adhesive holding the home button in place.

– Carefully lift the home button mount off the front panel like you’re unveiling a secret.

Step 45

– Gently slide the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool underneath the home button’s mounting bracket.

– Carefully glide the tool along the retaining spring bracket to break free that sticky adhesive.

– With a little finesse, lift the home button along with its mounting bracket right off the front panel.

Step 46

– Heat up the iOpener following the simple steps in the iOpener heating section at the start of this guide.

– Carefully place the warm iOpener right over the front-facing camera at the top edge of your device’s display.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 47

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently nudge the camera bracket off the adhesive holding it in place on the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Replacement

Step 48

– Gently lift the camera bracket away from the front panel and set it aside. You’re doing great!

Step 49

– The front panel is still in place.

Success!
To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps in reverse and check out our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to securely reattach the front panel. If you hit any snags or need a hand, feel free to schedule a repair!

iPad Pro 12.9″ 3rd Gen Screen Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 48 Steps

Get ready to give your iPad Pro 12.9″ 3rd Gen a brand-new look! This guide will walk you through the process of swapping out the screen, which includes both the display and the top sensor assembly. Just a heads-up: if you don’t move over that top sensor assembly, you’ll be waving goodbye to Face ID and True Tone. We crafted this guide using the WiFi + Cellular version (Model A2014), so if your model is a bit different, don’t sweat it! There might be some minor visual differences, but rest assured, they won’t mess with the steps. If you find yourself in a pickle, feel free to schedule a repair!

Step 1

– Disconnect all cables and power down your iPad completely.

Step 2

– Place a heated iOpener on the right side of your screen and let it work its magic for two minutes. This will make the next steps a lot easier and more satisfying!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9
  2. Heat GuniPad Pro 12.9

Step 3

– Slide the blue handle backward to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free.

– Prop up your iPad with something sturdy so it sits evenly between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the right edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give the top cup a firm press to get a good suction grip.

Step 4

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place!

– Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees, or keep turning until you see those suction cups start to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re still lined up perfectly. If they start to wander off course, just loosen them a tad and guide those arms back into alignment.

Step 5

– Take a breather for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen isn’t warming up enough, feel free to gently use a hair dryer along the right edge of the iPad for some extra heat.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has opened a nice little gap, slide an opening pick underneath the screen.

– Go ahead and skip the next step.

Step 6

– Stick a suction handle onto the screen, aiming for the center of the right edge—think of it as your starting line.

– Give the suction handle a firm, steady tug upwards to gently pop open a little gap between the frame and screen.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap to keep things moving.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9
  2. Suction HandleiPad Pro 12.9

Step 7

– The first magnet kicks off about 3 cm down from the top edge of your iPad.

– The second magnet starts its gig roughly 3 cm up from the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 8

– Gently slide your opening pick along the right side of the screen to break the adhesive free.

– Keep the pick inserted in the bottom right corner so you’re ready to move on.

Step 9

– Gently slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to carefully loosen the adhesive.

– Keep your pick wedged in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.

Step 10

– Gently place a warm iOpener on the bottom edge of the screen and let it work its magic for two minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9

Step 11

– Slide a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.

– Gently glide your pick over to the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive holding the bottom in place.

Step 12

– Gently spin your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.

– Keep your pick wedged in that corner to stop the adhesive from snapping shut again.

Step 13

– Give the left edge of the screen a warm hug with a heated iOpener for a cozy two minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9

Step 14

– Start with the upper cutout, which kicks off about 4 cm from the top of the frame and stretches 3 cm long. Easy peasy!

– Next up, let’s tackle the middle cutout that begins 12 cm from the top of the frame and also measures 3 cm in length. You’ve got this!

– Finally, don’t forget the bottom cutout, positioned 4 cm from the bottom of the frame and extending 3 cm long. Almost there!

Step 15

– Pop a third opening pick right under the bottom left corner of the screen.

– Gently slide that pick up to the top left corner to cut through the left adhesive, but steer clear of those little cutouts we talked about earlier.

– Keep the pick in place at the top left corner while you move on to the next step.

Step 16

– Gently slide your opening pick around the upper left corner of the screen.

– Keep your pick in that corner to stop the adhesive from making a comeback.

Step 17

– Place a warm iOpener on the top edge of the screen and let it work its magic for two minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9

Step 18

– While the adhesive along the top edge is getting all nice and cozy, keep these little nuggets in mind:

– Watch out for those two sneaky ambient light sensors hiding near the corners. Make sure your pick doesn’t go deeper than 1 mm here.

– The front-facing camera and some other sensors are chilling right in the center of the top edge. So, steer clear of inserting your pick here — there’s less than 1 mm of adhesive, and we definitely don’t want to mess with those delicate components!

Step 19

– Gently slide your opening pick about 9 cm towards the top right corner, stopping just shy of the camera assembly. You’re almost there!

– Keep your pick in place before moving on to the next step. You’ve got this!

Step 20

– Pop a new opening pick on the opposite side of the camera assembly, about 4 cm away from your last pick.

– Slide that pick up to the top right corner to carefully cut through the rest of the adhesive.

Step 21

– Hold two corners of the screen that are opposite each other and gently lift to pop it away from the frame.

– Slide the screen down and to the right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is visible.

Step 22

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the two screws that are keeping the upper cable shield in place. Easy peasy!

– Before you get too far into putting everything back together, power up your iPad and make sure everything’s working. Don’t forget to turn it off again before moving forward with the rest of the repair!

– One screw, 2.0mm long

– One screw, 1.8mm long

Step 23

– Grab the upper cable shield with tweezers or your fingers and carefully lift it away.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad Pro 12.9

Step 24

– Gently slide the spudger tip under the upper sensors press connector and pop it loose.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad Pro 12.9

Step 25

– Grab the right edge of the screen and swing it open like you’re flipping through a book.

– Gently lay the screen down over the left side of the iPad.

Step 26

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the five screws holding down the display cable bracket:

– Four screws measuring 1.1 mm in length

– One screw that’s 2.0 mm long

Step 27

– Gently use tweezers or just your fingers to lift off the display cable bracket without breaking a sweat.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad Pro 12.9

Step 28

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect those pesky top display cable press connectors. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad Pro 12.9

Step 29

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up those two bottom display cable press connectors to disconnect them. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad Pro 12.9

Step 30

– Time to say goodbye to that screen! Carefully detach it from the device to get started on your repair journey.

Step 31

– Gently lift the tape off the display cable bracket found at the bottom right corner of the screen.

Step 32

– Keep peeling the tape gently along its outer edge until the bracket is completely uncovered and ready for the next step.

Step 33

– Peel off that tape like a pro!

– Set it aside for now; you’ll need it when putting everything back together.

Step 34

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and say goodbye to those two 1.3 mm-long screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Time to set that screen free!

Step 35

– Detach the display cable bracket.

Step 36

– Carefully peel away the tape that’s holding the display and digitizer cables together. Take your time and be gentle, you’ve got this!

Step 37

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the bottom display cable press connector on the screen—it’s time to disconnect!

– Now, take those tweezers and carefully bend the bottom press connector away from the screen. This will reveal the top press connector, making it easier for you to continue your repair adventure.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad Pro 12.9
  2. TweezersiPad Pro 12.9

Step 38

– Grab a spudger and gently work your magic to lift and disconnect the top display cable press connector on the screen. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad Pro 12.9

Step 39

– Gently use your fingers to wiggle the display cable free from the screen. Just a little finesse goes a long way!

– Carefully detach the display cable and set it aside. You’ll need this little guy later when putting everything back together.

– Remember, patience is key! You’ve got this!

Step 40

– The top sensor assembly packs in four cool components:

– A couple of ambient light sensors to keep things bright just right

– A proximity sensor that knows when you’re close

– And a microphone to catch all the sounds

Step 41

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top of the screen for two minutes. Let it work its magic!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9

Step 42

– Slide one arm of your trusty angled tweezers between the ambient light sensor and the screen. Go on, give it a gentle nudge!

– Now, pry it up a bit to set that sensor free from its screen buddy.

– Don’t forget to repeat this fun little dance for the other ambient light sensor too!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad Pro 12.9

Step 43

– Slide one arm of your trusty angled tweezers right between the proximity sensor cable and the screen.

– Gently glide the tweezers towards the screen while prying it apart to free the sensor from its screen buddy.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad Pro 12.9
  2. TweezersiPad Pro 12.9

Step 44

– Gently lift off any tape that’s hiding the microphone.

– Keep that tape handy—you’ll need it when putting things back together.

Step 45

– Gently slide an opening tool beneath the microphone to break up that stubborn adhesive.

– Carefully pry upwards to detach the microphone from the screen.

Step 46

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the top sensor assembly cable to gently separate it from the screen.

Step 47

– Keep that opening pick gliding along the top sensor assembly until it’s fully detached from the screen!

– Now, go ahead and take off the top sensor assembly.

Step 48

– Put your device back together by reversing the steps you took apart.

– Make sure to check your new part against the old one—you might need to move some bits over or peel off any sticky backing before popping it in.

– Don’t toss your old parts in the trash—take them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.

– If things didn’t go quite right, try some basic troubleshooting or schedule a repair with us for a hand.

Success!
Put your device back together by reversing these steps—easy peasy!
Make sure to check your new part against the old one; you might need to move some bits over or peel off any sticky backing before popping it in.
Got old parts? Recycle them responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified facility.
If things didn’t quite work out, try some basic troubleshooting or consider scheduling a repair with us for a helping hand.

iPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps

If your display bezel took a hit, this guide will walk you through swapping it out. Originally made for the iPad 3 Wi-Fi, the steps are just as solid for the iPad 4, whether it’s the 4G or Wi-Fi version.

Step 1

– Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave and let it warm up.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 2

– Give your iOpener a quick spin in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As you dive into the repair, keep an eye on that iOpener! When it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the heat flowing.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 3

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends so you don’t burn your fingers on the hot center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 4

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to fully submerge your iOpener.

– Heat that water up until it starts boiling. Then, turn off the heat.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s completely submerged.

– Using tongs, carefully remove the iOpener from the hot water.

– Give the iOpener a good dry with a towel—make sure it’s nice and dry.

– All set! If you need to heat it up again, just bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in for another 2-3 minutes.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 5

– If your display glass is cracked, keep those pesky shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you dive in.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up nice and snug.

– Follow the rest of the steps as best as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so be ready to carefully scoop out pieces using a metal prying tool.

Step 6

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nicely pressed down for solid contact between the iOpener and the iPad surface.

– Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 7

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick tip-in to slightly widen the gap—no need to force it!

Step 8

– Be sure to position your tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

Step 9

– Place the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Just take your time, and keep things steady – no need to rush!

Step 10

– Slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’ve got this!

Step 11

– While you’re gently peeling away the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, don’t forget to give your iOpener a little reheat love and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 12

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s start gently peeling away the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, and keep releasing the adhesive as you go. Slow and steady!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 13

– If your trusty opening pick is feeling a bit too cozy in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of your iPad. Keep on moving to free that sticky stuff up!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 14

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again and shift it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm for the next step.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 15

– Heads up, the upcoming steps need you to be extra careful.

– You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without harming the fragile connectors that attach it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.

Step 16

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.

Step 17

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!

Step 18

– Now that you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches from the right edge, or right next to the home button), it’s time to reinsert that opening pick all the way in.

– Give that pick a little slide to the right, and watch as it frees up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass. You’re doing great!

– Just a heads up: the antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you take off the panel, the antenna stays safe and sound!

Step 19

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, scoot it out just enough to curve around the home button, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the button.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 20

– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad – you’re doing great!

– Once you’ve got it going, slide in the opening pick and leave it snugly under the front glass near the home button.

Step 21

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently warm up the adhesive hiding there.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 22

– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is quite thick, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful; we don’t want any slips that might harm you or your iPad.

– If your opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9.

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 23

– Keep peeling away that pesky adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro!

Tools Used
  1. iOpeneriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 24

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no more than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer damage.

Step 25

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive free from the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!

Step 26

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then lift it up enough to get a good hold with your fingers.

Step 27

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When you’re putting everything back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you place the glass back on. A clean screen is a happy screen!

Step 28

– Let’s get those pesky four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws out of the way! These little guys are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame, so grab your screwdriver and show them who’s boss!

Step 29

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Next, swing the LCD over to its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Nice and easy!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 30

– Grab your spudger and gently work the tip under the tape that’s covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Slowly peel it back – you’re almost there!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 31

– Lift up the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.

– Gently wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.

– If the LCD screen stays dark after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a force restart by holding down the power button and home button together for about ten seconds until the Apple logo pops up.

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 32

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, but be sure not to touch the front of the screen. Handle with care, you’re almost there!

Step 33

Step 34

– Gently lift the little flap holding down the home button ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!

Step 35

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug that home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. TweezersiPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 36

– Carefully guide the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the rear case. Let’s get that cable some fresh air!

Step 37

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the tape holding down the digitizer ribbon cable on the logic board. Take it slow and steady!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 38

– Lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.

Step 39

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully free the adhesive holding it down.

– Once loosened, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 40

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then grab a spudger (flat end) to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. Take your time and work it loose – patience is key!

Tools Used
  1. SpudgeriPad 4 CDMA Display Bezel Replacement

Step 41

– Gently use your fingers to carefully lift the digitizer ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Next, take off the front panel of the iPad and set it aside.

Step 42

– Gently wedge the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool between the plastic and aluminum frames at one of the corners. Take your time—this is where the magic begins!

– Now, carefully glide that plastic opening tool along the edge of your iPad to free up the adhesive. You’re doing great—keep it steady!

Step 43

– Keep going and gently slide that plastic opening tool along the entire left edge of the iPad. Nice and steady—you’re doing great!

Step 44

– As you approach the bottom left corner, give your plastic opening tool a little twist around the edge, and keep sliding it along the bottom like a pro.

Step 45

– Keep sliding your plastic opening tool smoothly along the right edge of the iPad, like a pro gently opening a secret treasure chest.

Step 46

– Keep an eye on that front-facing camera while you gently slide the plastic opening tool along the top edge of the iPad. We want to avoid any accidental selfies during this process!

Step 47

– Once you’ve successfully released the adhesive around the iPad’s edges, gently lift the plastic display bezel away from the device. It’s like giving your iPad a little hug as it says goodbye to its old cover!

Success!
To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to secure the front panel. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us!

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