Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave for a quick warm-up.

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your tool!

– As you go through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool off, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Keep that warmth flowing!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to avoid touching the hot center. Safety first, always!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to cover your iOpener completely.

– Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.

– Drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.

– Use tongs to carefully fish out the warm iOpener from the water.

– Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to go.

– Your iOpener is all set! When it cools down, just repeat the heating process to get it back to working temp.

– Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up nice and neat.

– Stick to the guide as best as you can, but heads up: once that glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You might have to carefully use a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener evenly along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try popping open the front panel.

– Hey there! Check it out: there’s a little gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, right in the upper right corner—about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little opening!

– Now, let’s get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge!

– Be sure to tuck that tool right where it belongs—safely nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– With the plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside the tool you’ve just set up. You’re doing great!

– Carefully pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—to keep things moving smoothly.

– As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, pop that iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it neatly on the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.

– While you’re warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, it’s time to tackle that pesky adhesive on the right edge of the iPad. Let’s get it unstuck!

– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, making sure to release that stubborn adhesive as you go. You’re doing great!

– If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Reheat the iOpener and move it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm.

– Heads up! The next steps call for some serious care and attention.

– You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections down by the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

– Once you’ve moved past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or just beside the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in, reaching its full depth.

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right, loosening the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step safely detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring it stays intact when you remove the panel. No damage here!

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully threading it around the home button. Once past the button, wiggle the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) to keep that adhesive in check.

– Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.

– Slide the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat the adhesive in that area.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad. Give it a little tug to slide it around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This section is pretty sticky, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be careful—no rush, we don’t want any accidents or iPad injuries.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9. It should help it move more smoothly.

– Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad. As you do, it will slowly break free from the adhesive, but take it easy—the adhesive here is a bit thinner because of the digitizer running all along that side. Keep the pick shallow (no deeper than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) so you don’t accidentally damage anything sensitive like the digitizer.

– With the opening pick still nestled under the iPad’s bottom edge, gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner. Nice and steady—this part’s a little sticky, but you’re doing great!

– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped up, use your fingers to hold it in place like a pro!

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting everything back together, give the LCD a quick once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

– Take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug in the aluminum frame. A little twist and they’ll be free!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.

– Swing the LCD up and around its left edge, then carefully set it down on top of the front glass panel.

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift that little tape shielding the LCD ribbon cable connector. Easy does it!

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.

– With your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel without touching the screen side—treat it like a delicate dance move.

– Gently lift the little flap on the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector to unlock it.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy little spot in the rear case.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Take it slow and steady!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the sticky adhesive holding it down.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no wiggling dance moves needed!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pop loose the adhesive holding the cable to the back aluminum case.

– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using just your fingers.

– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently work the plastic spacer away from the rear case.

– Lift the plastic spacer off the iPad and set it aside.

– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the Lightning connector to the back case—time to loosen those tiny bolts and make some space!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the Lightning connector cable straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the Lightning connector cable away from the aluminum frame. Take your time, and remember, every little bit helps in this journey!

– To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps in reverse and check out our guide with the iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips to help you reattach that front panel like a pro! If you hit a snag, remember, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and get it heated up! It’s time to give your device a little warmth boost.

– Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick 30-second warm-up.

– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener toasty—if it starts to cool down, just zap it in the microwave for another 30 seconds at a time.

– Carefully lift the iOpener out of the microwave by one of its flat ends—avoid grabbing the sizzling hot center!

– Fill a pot or pan with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.

– Carefully dunk the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully soaked.

– Use tongs to fish the warmed iOpener out of the water.

– Dry it off thoroughly with a towel.

– Your iOpener is now good to go! Need to warm it up again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed.

– Follow the rest of the guide as usual. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to lift the front panel.

– Check out this tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This little spot is your golden ticket to get started.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick, light poke with the tip to gently pry open the crack.

– Ensure that you position the tool just right—nestled snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

– Wedge the tip of the plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic pick into the gap right next to it. Take it slow and steady – you’re almost there!

– Pop that plastic opening tool out of your iPad, and slide the opening pick in a bit deeper, about half an inch under the front glass. You’ve got this!

– While you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As the iOpener warms up that bottom edge, let’s get started on freeing up the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch that adhesive let go as you glide along.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.

– Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too cozy again.

– Give your iOpener a little reheat love and then place it on the top edge of your iPad. Let’s keep things warm and friendly!

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! The next few steps need your utmost care.

– You’ll be gently releasing the adhesive that keeps the antenna snug on the front panel. Just be sure to avoid any mishaps with the delicate bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Keep your focus and follow the upcoming steps closely!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding there.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!

– After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide the opening pick all the way in.

– Carefully slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so it won’t get damaged when you take the panel off.

– Keep peeling the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, sliding the opening pick out just enough to curve around the home button, then tuck it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the home button.

– Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.

– Let the opening pick chill right under the front glass near the home button to hold your spot.

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that spot!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little nudge to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could damage your device or your fingers.

– If the pick is feeling stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it as shown in step 9 to ease things along.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin because the digitizer runs the entire left side. Keep your pick shallow, no deeper than half an inch (about 10 mm), to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.

– With the trusty opening pick still wedged under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the sticky adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!

– Grab one of your opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold it with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to give that LCD a little TLC! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently coax the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, swing that LCD around its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front glass panel. Look at you go!

– Gently slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the tape shielding the LCD ribbon cable connector, and peel it back like a pro.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– With a little finesse—either using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers—carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back where it belongs. If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair!

– Pop the iOpener right in the center of your microwave.

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your repair tool!

– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Stay toasty!

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but grab it by one of the flat ends—avoid the hot middle, it’s a bit too toasty!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice warm bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling away, go ahead and switch off the heat.

– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged so it can soak up all that heat goodness.

– Now, use some tongs to fish out your heated iOpener from the water. Safety first!

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry – we don’t want any water left hanging around.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to go! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, help prevent further damage and keep things safe by taping over the cracks. Trust us, it’ll make your life easier as you go.

– Start by laying down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display. Cover the whole screen, making sure it’s well secured.

– Now, take your time and follow the guide as best as you can. But be warned, once that glass is cracked, it’s probably going to keep breaking. You might need a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the shards.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s nice and snug for optimal warmth. Let’s get that contact going!

– Now, let the iOpener chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds. This little wait is key before you dive into opening the front panel.

– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. We’re going to take advantage of this little opening.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and plastic bezel—just enough to nudge the crack open a bit.

– Carefully slide your tool right where the magic happens—between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel. You’ve got this!

– Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic pick into the gap, right alongside the tool. Keep it steady and make sure you’re in the right spot – you’ve got this!

– Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch in. Keep it smooth and steady!

– As you tackle that sticky adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another round of heat and pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– As the iOpener works its magic on the bottom edge, start loosening up that adhesive on the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad’s edge, freeing up the adhesive with each move.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, no worries! Just ‘roll’ the pick gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.

– Heads up—these next steps need some serious care and attention.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without harming the fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along carefully.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free it from the adhesive’s grip. You’ve got this!

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up that sticky adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’ve got this!

– After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right by the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in again.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected with a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so you can remove the panel without causing any damage.

– Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, reinsert it to about half an inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel away the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, making sure to stay steady and smooth.

– Keep that opening pick snug under the front glass near the home button—just a little nudge to keep things in place.

– Give your iOpener a quick spin in the microwave and then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making things a lot easier for you.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn and thick, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches on you or your iPad.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the gooey adhesive, try “rolling” it like in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Gently peel off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then carefully slide your opening pick around the top left corner. Nice and steady—you’re almost there!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive as you go. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin because the digitizer runs along the entire left side. Keep that pick shallow (no more than about 10 mm or half an inch) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

– Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad to gently loosen the adhesive in the bottom left corner.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently pop up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s lifted, use your fingers to hold it in place. You’re doing great!

– Grab the iPad by its top and bottom right corners and gently peel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting everything back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to clear away any dust or smudges before snapping the glass back on.

– Unscrew those four little 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.

– Now, carefully rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on the front glass panel like you’re setting it on a cozy bed.

– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully lift up the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. A little nudge with the tip should do the trick!

– Lift the little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with care. You’ve got this!

– With a gentle touch, either use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without touching its screen. It’s like peeling off a sticker—smooth and steady!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Just a little nudge is all it takes!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull that home button ribbon cable straight out from its snug spot on the logic board. A steady hand and a little patience go a long way here!

– Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy nook in the back case.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel back the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable onto the logic board. A little tug, and you’re good to go!

– Gently lift the little flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no sideways moves!

– Gently lift up the digitizer ribbon cable, then slide the flat end of a spudger underneath to carefully break loose the adhesive holding the cable to the back aluminum case.

– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.

– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a minute on high heat (or just thirty seconds if you’ve got the newer gel-filled iOpener).

– Gently place the iOpener over the home button, right on the front edge of your display.

– Gently detach the home button ribbon cable from the front panel, taking care to avoid any unnecessary tugs. You’ve got this!

– Slide that plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and give it a gentle nudge upwards to break free that pesky adhesive holding it down.

– Now, just like before, slide the tool over to the left side and release the adhesive there too.

– With that done, carefully lift the home button mount off the front panel like a pro!

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool under the edge of the home button mounting bracket.

– Carefully glide the tool along the retaining spring bracket to free the adhesive.

– Lift the home button along with its mounting bracket away from the front panel.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your tool!

– As you tackle the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Keep the warmth flowing!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle part!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice warm bath.

– Get that water boiling! Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.

– Gently place your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s enjoying the soak and is completely submerged.

– Use tongs to carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water. Safety first!

– Give the iOpener a good drying off with a towel to get it ready for action.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the boiling, turning off the heat, and soaking for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass has taken a hit and cracked, keep things safe and avoid any ouch moments by taping it up before you dive in.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is shielded like a pro.

– Stick to the steps ahead as best you can. Just a heads up: once that glass is cracked, it might keep spreading as you work, so you might need to carefully scoop it out with a metal prying tool.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and smooth for optimal contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener. You’re setting the stage for success!

– Give the bag a little chill time on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel. Patience is key!

– Check out this tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip is enough to pry it open a bit.

– Remember to position your tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– Hold the tip of your plastic opening tool snugly between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to gently work things loose.

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool out from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch in. Keep it smooth and steady!

– While you’re busy loosening that stubborn adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As you warm up the bottom edge with your trusty iOpener, let’s get started on loosening that stubborn adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive little by little. You’re doing great!

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking that sticky seal.

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from making a reunion.

– Give the iOpener another warm-up and shift it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and toasty.

– Heads up! The next steps need some serious finesse.

– You’ll carefully peel away the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile connections at the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the lower right corner of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Once you’re past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75mm from the right edge, or right by the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in—let it dive deep!

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right. This will free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Easy peasy!

– The antenna is connected to the bottom of the iPad by screws and a cable. Detaching it here ensures that when you lift off the front panel, your antenna stays safe and sound.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Keep that opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass near the home button to hold your progress.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat and loosen the adhesive in that area.

– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is like super glue on steroids, so you might need to put in some effort. Just take it slow and steady—no need to rush and risk any mishaps with your iPad.

– If your pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, just ‘roll’ it like a pro as shown in step 9!

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, then glide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin since the digitizer runs along this entire side. Keep your pick shallow (no more than about 10 mm or half an inch) to avoid poking the digitizer.

– Grab that opening pick still hanging out at the bottom edge of your iPad, and gently slide it along the bottom left corner to break the adhesive seal. Easy does it!

– Take an opening pick and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s lifted, grab it with your fingers and carefully pull it away. Easy does it!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. Think of it like a slow dance, just a little turn to get things moving.

– When you’re putting everything back together, take a microfiber cloth and a bit of compressed air to clear off any dust or fingerprints on the LCD. A clean surface makes all the difference, trust us!

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame—time to set them free!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and let it rest comfortably on top of the front glass panel. Nice and easy!

– With the spudger’s pointy end, carefully lift up the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector cozy under wraps.

– Lift up the little flap that’s holding the LCD ribbon cable in place. It’s like unlocking the door to the next step.

– Now, gently grab the LCD ribbon cable (either with your fingers or some tweezers) and pull it out of the socket on the logic board. No need to rush, just take it slow and steady!

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel—just keep your hands off the front glass to avoid any smudges or surprises.

– Gently lift the flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector, just like opening a little secret compartment.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull that home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. Nice and easy—no force needed!

– Gently free the home button ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the rear case.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel back the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Take it slow and steady – it’s just a little tape, but this step can make all the difference!

– Gently flip up the retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break free the adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little home on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully unstick the adhesive holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully peel off that piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.

– Take your spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board.

– Gently glide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, freeing it from the adhesive that’s been keeping it cozy with the rear aluminum frame.

– Now, give that headphone jack assembly cable a nice, straight pull to release it from its snug home on the logic board.

– Gently nudge the front-facing camera ribbon cable out of the way using the flat edge of a spudger—no need to rip it off, just a little shimmy!

– Carefully lift and peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly.

– With the spudger in hand, gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the spudger tip under the microphone ribbon cable and coax it out of its snug little spot on the ZIF connector.

– With the flat side of your spudger, nudge the microphone ribbon cable to the side so it can chill out for a moment.

– Gently lift the little retaining flap that’s holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector snugly against the headphone jack assembly board.

– Carefully pop the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.

– Gently lift the volume button ribbon cable upwards to tuck it out of the way.

– Time to dive in! Let’s get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly. Here’s what you’ll need to remove:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– And finally, two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Grasp the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly gently and lift the assembly straight up toward the top edge of the device with care.

– With one hand, grab hold of the headphone jack assembly and gently pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any sneaky cables that might try to cling on.

– With the flat end of a spudger in hand, gently nudge the rear-facing camera out of its cozy spot on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. You’ve got this!

– The headphone jack board is still with us.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!

– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.

– As you dive into your repair adventure, keep that iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the two flat ends so you don’t accidentally touch the hot middle part.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then switch off the heat.

– Drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to carefully lift the warmed iOpener out of the water.

– Pat the iOpener dry with a towel—no one likes a soggy tool!

– Your iOpener is now all set and good to go! If it cools down before you’re done, just heat the water again, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering into a million pieces and protect your hands during the repair! Grab some tape and cover that glass up.

– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until it’s fully shielded. Think of it as giving your device a nice, protective hug!

– Now, just follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass starts to break, it may keep cracking a bit as you work. If that happens, don’t worry! You might need to use a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it hugs the surface nicely for maximum heat transfer.

– Chill out and let the iOpener do its magic for about 90 seconds before you try to pop open the front panel.

– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your golden ticket.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and plastic bezel. Just nudge in the tip enough to start prying the gap open.

– Position the tool carefully—slip it right between the plastic bezel around the display and the glass of the front panel. You’ve got this!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into the gap next to it to gently work things loose.

– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and carefully slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, pushing it in about 0.5 inches. Make sure you’re not forcing it—just gently work it in.

– As you work on gently peeling away the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener a little reheat, and position it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– While the bottom edge is warming up thanks to the iOpener, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, peeling back that stubborn adhesive as you go.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just gently ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive release party going.

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again and shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.

– These next steps require a steady hand, so take a deep breath and focus.

– You’ll need to gently detach the antenna from the front panel, but be careful not to disturb the fragile parts that connect it to the bottom of the iPad. Move slowly and follow the steps carefully, and you’ll be just fine!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it down.

– Gently glide the edge of your opening pick along the bottom of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna gives way like magic!

– Once you’ve glided past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge or right next to the home button—slide that opening pick back in to its full depth like a pro!

– Now, give that pick a little nudge to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.

– Just a heads up! The antenna is hooked up to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is super important as it separates the antenna from the front panel, ensuring it stays safe and sound when you lift off the panel.

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out just enough to curve around the home button. Once you’ve passed the home button, pop the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep and keep going!

– Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!

– Slide the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat session, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out a bit to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply some serious elbow grease. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches on you or your iPad.

– If your opening pick starts to get stuck in the glue, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and carefully slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad to peel away the adhesive. The adhesive here is thinner because of the digitizer running along the left edge, so keep your pick just a little under half an inch (about 10 mm) deep to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

– Slide the opening pick gently under the bottom edge of your iPad and carefully loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner to get things moving.

– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up a bit, use your fingers to hold onto it like a pro!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently give the front glass a little twist to separate it from the device. Easy does it!

– Before putting everything back together, take a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a quick clean. Make sure to zap away any dust or fingerprints so the screen looks fresh and spotless when you reinstall the glass.

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. These little guys are pretty easy to spot, so take them out carefully.

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Carefully swing the LCD up along its left edge and let it rest on top of the front glass panel.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug as a bug.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– With a light touch, either with your fingers or some tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy home on the logic board.

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the little flap holding down the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector to unlock it.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the home button ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the rear case.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable onto the logic board. Easy does it!