Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just give it another quick thirty-second zap to keep things warm and easy.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing one of the two flat ends so you don’t burn your fingers on the hot middle part.

– Start by filling a pot or pan with enough water to completely submerge your iOpener.

– Heat up that water until it’s boiling, then go ahead and turn off the heat. You don’t need it bubbling away any longer.

– Place the iOpener gently into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged in the water.

– Carefully use tongs to pull the heated iOpener out of the water. Watch out, it’s going to be hot!

– Dry the iOpener thoroughly with a towel so it’s nice and ready for the job.

– All set! Your iOpener is good to go. If it cools down too much, just heat up the water again, turn off the heat, and dip the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some packing tape and cover that glass up to prevent any further mishaps while you work your magic.

– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until it’s fully covered. Think of it as giving your device a protective shield!

– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass starts cracking, it might keep on doing its thing while you’re working. You might want to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out those pesky glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for optimal contact. We want that heat to do its magic!

– Give it a moment to chill—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before you dive in and tackle that front panel.

– There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just ease the tip in just enough to start widening that gap.

– Position the tool carefully between the plastic bezel and the front panel glass. It should slide in smoothly—no force needed here!

– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, it’s time to slide in a plastic opening pick right beside it, making sure to fill that little gap like a pro!

– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, pushing it in about half an inch. You’re doing great!

– While you’re working on gently peeling off the adhesive from the right side of your iPad, go ahead and reheat the iOpener. Once it’s nice and warm, place it on the bottom edge of the iPad to keep things smooth and easy.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– Gently slide your opening pick down the edge, carefully freeing the adhesive bit by bit.

– If your opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, try gently ‘rolling’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that sticky stuff away.

– Before you whip out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick right under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too cozy and re-sticking.

– Give that iOpener a little reheat love and then place it on the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Alright, friends! We’re diving into some careful steps ahead, so let’s keep our eyes peeled.

– You’ll be gently releasing the adhesive that’s keeping the antenna snug against the front panel. Just take your time and avoid any mishaps with the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow along closely, and you’ll do great!

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, peeling away that adhesive like a pro.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.

– Alright, let’s get rolling! Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches from the right edge, right next to the home button), it’s time to reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.

– Now, give that pick a little slide to the right! This will release the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass.

– Remember, the antenna is securely attached to the bottom of your iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you remove the panel, you won’t have to worry about damaging your antenna. You’ve got this!

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to loop around the home button, then tuck it back in about half an inch (10 mm) past the button.

– Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!

– Now, slide the opening pick gently under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area.

– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is no joke – it’s thick! So, take your time and apply some muscle, but be careful not to slip and cause any harm to yourself or your iPad.

– If your opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, just like we showed you in step 9.

– Carefully peel off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive is super thin here because of the digitizer running the whole left side. Keep the pick shallow (no deeper than 10 mm or about 1/2 inch) to avoid giving the digitizer an accidental poke.

– Still got the opening pick tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge? Great! Now, gently work it to break free the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

– With one of your opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little tug with your fingers to get it started.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently twist the front glass away from the device. Nice and easy, no rush!

– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure to wipe the LCD with a microfiber cloth and give it a quick blast of compressed air to clear off any pesky dust or fingerprints before you reinstall the glass. A clean screen always looks better!

– Take a moment to locate those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. Once you’ve found them, gently remove each one with your trusty screwdriver. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pop the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, swing the LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front panel like it’s taking a well-deserved break.

– Take the spudger and gently lift the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Be careful not to rush—it’s a delicate step, but you’ve got this!

– Lift up the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle touch.

– Now, grab the LCD ribbon cable (fingers or tweezers will do the trick) and carefully pull it out of the socket on the logic board.

– If the LCD screen refuses to light up after connecting the ZIF connector, try giving your iPad a force restart. Hold down the power and home buttons together for at least 10 seconds until the Apple logo appears, and voilà!

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure not to touch the screen directly. Take it slow, and you’re one step closer to a smooth repair!

– Grab your spudger and gently lift the piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable in place on the logic board. Take your time and peel it back carefully.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the touchscreen ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully pry up the adhesive holding it in place.

– Firmly and steadily pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable, then grab the flat end of your spudger to carefully lift off the adhesive holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. Take your time—this part is all about finesse!

– With a gentle tug from your fingertips, ease the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift off the front panel of the iPad, like unwrapping a present!

– Time to free your device! Gently unplug these connectors from their cozy homes on the logic board:

– Wi-Fi antenna cable

– Speaker connector cable.

– Dock connector cable.

– Carefully peel back the electrical tape that’s been keeping your headphone jack assembly cable connector snug and cozy. It’s time for it to shine!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, carefully freeing it from the adhesive that holds it to the aluminum back panel.

– Now, give that headphone jack assembly cable a straight pull to release it from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Carefully peel off the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector snug as a bug.

– Gently flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– With your trusty spudger, give the SIM board cable a straight pull to free it from its cozy home on the logic board.

– Grab your screwdriver and remove the seven screws holding the logic board to the rear aluminum panel.

– Six 2.1mm Phillips #00 screws

– One 2.5mm Phillips #00 screw

– Grip the logic board by the edge closest to the dock connector, then gently slide it down toward the bottom of the iPad.

– Carefully flip the logic board over, keeping an eye out for any cables that might get in the way.

– Use the tip of a spudger to gently pop the three antenna connectors off their sockets on the logic board.

– The battery is stuck on there pretty good, thanks to a hefty dose of strong adhesive bonding it to the aluminum frame.

– Gently slide the flat edge of a metal spudger under the battery at the bottom of your iPad.

– Carefully glide the metal spudger about 1.5 inches beneath the battery to loosen the adhesive.

– Just like we did before, gently slide that spudger about 2 inches under the other adhesive strips. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the metal spudger under the battery connector to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping it snug as a bug in a rug.

– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the top of the battery like a boss!

– Picking up right where you left off, slide that trusty metal spudger in about two more inches under the battery. You’re doing great!

– Now, just keep that momentum going and repeat this for the rest of those adhesive strips. You’ve got this!

– Keep at it! Just like before, gently work your way along and loosen the adhesive strips to about a 4-inch depth. You’ve got this!

– For the final pass, slide the metal spudger all the way to the right edge of your iPad. Nice and smooth!

– Keep at it, and do the same for all the adhesive strips. You’ve got this!

– First, double-check that all the adhesive glue has given up its grip on the battery.

– Now, gently lift the left side of the battery, tilting it towards the right side of the iPad. Take your time here!

– Carefully remove the battery from the iPad, and you’re one step closer to a successful repair.

– Gently use the flat end of the spudger to pop the plastic spacer loose from the aluminum frame.

– Lift the plastic spacer off the iPad and set it aside.

– Unscrew the two 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the dock connector snugly attached to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the dock connector up. It’s like a little dance, so be smooth!

– Now, carefully remove the dock connector from the iPad. You’re almost there!

– Time to get those screws off! Let’s start by unscrewing the ones holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the aluminum frame.

– Two 1.75 mm Phillips #00 (the small head ones) – ready? Go ahead and remove them.

– Next, grab the 4.15 mm Phillips #00 screw and get that one out too.

– Finally, don’t forget the 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screw with the wide head. One last twist!

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently work it under the foam adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snugly attached to the speaker assembly. A little patience goes a long way!

– Grab the Wi-Fi antenna and speaker cable firmly, like you’re holding onto the last piece of pizza.

– Gently but firmly pull those cables off the aluminum frame. No rush—just a smooth and careful move.

– Unplug the speaker cable from the Wi-Fi antenna cable. They’re like two friends who need a little space!

– Gently detach the Wi-Fi cable from the iPad, making sure it’s a smooth separation.

– Gently wedge the tip of a spudger under the adhesive tape that’s holding the speaker to the aluminum frame.

– Carefully slide the spudger beneath the tape to loosen up the sticky adhesive.

– Loosen and take out the three 4.25 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the speaker onto the aluminum frame. Easy does it!

– Grab your spudger and gently nudge the speaker assembly out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame. Easy does it!

– To put your device back together, just work your way through these steps in reverse. Easy peasy! And if things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it soak up the warmth!

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.

– If it cools down during your repair, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends so you don’t touch the hot center.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely submerge your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.

– Drop your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use some tongs to carefully pull the iOpener out of the water.

– Dry it off well with a towel.

– All set! If you need to reheat the iOpener, just bring the water back to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it sit in the water for 2-3 minutes again. Easy, right?

– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out the SIM tray.

– Gently pull the SIM tray out from its slot and take it out of your iPad.

– If you’re swapping the SIM card, pop the old one out of the tray and slide the new card in.

– If your display glass has a crack, let’s keep it from turning into a full-blown disaster! Grab some tape and secure that glass to prevent any further mishaps and keep your fingers safe during the repair.

– Now, let’s get that iPad looking all good again! Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the display until the entire front is covered. It’s like giving your iPad a protective blanket!

– Keep your eyes on the prize and follow the rest of the guide step by step. Just a heads up, when the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the glass pieces, but you’ve got this!

– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad. Smooth it out gently to make sure it’s making solid contact with the surface of the iPad.

– Let the iOpener sit there for about 90 seconds. This gives it time to warm up the front panel before you get started with opening it.

– Check it out! There’s a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, right up in the upper right corner. It’s about 2.0 inches (or ~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!

– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip—just enough to pop that crack open a bit!

– Carefully tuck the tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel—like sliding into your favorite spot on the couch!

– Hold the tip of your plastic opening tool snugly between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into that gap, right next to your opening tool. Smooth moves!

– Slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then gently nudge the opening pick further beneath the front glass about half an inch deep. Keep it smooth and steady!

– As you’re carefully peeling off the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, pop your iOpener back in the microwave for a quick reheating session. Then, place it along the bottom edge of your iPad to keep things nice and warm while you work.

– If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad. Keep it moving to slowly release that stubborn adhesive. Patience is key!

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right side of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and toasty.

– Heads up! The next steps need a steady hand and some serious care.

– You’ll be peeling off the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, but watch out for the fragile connections linking the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along carefully.

– Gently work the opening pick around the lower right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, loosening the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place. Take your time—patience is key here.

– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches from the right edge, right by the home button), reinsert that trusty opening pick all the way in.

– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to break free the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.

– Remember, the antenna is bolted down to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial because it frees the antenna from the front panel, so when you go to lift off the panel, your antenna stays safe and sound.

– Keep peeling back that sticky stuff all the way across the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Make sure to leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass near the home button. It’s like giving it a little hug!

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a little warmth party, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help get the adhesive in that area all cozy and ready to come off.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little nudge to wiggle around that pesky front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is pretty thick, so don’t hesitate to apply some good ol’ elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady—nobody wants a slip-up that could harm you or your iPad.

– If the opening pick starts to feel like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.

– Keep gently peeling the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and carefully slide the opening pick around the top left corner. Take it slow, and you’ll be cruising through this in no time.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is extra thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.

– Slide the opening pick gently along the bottom edge of the iPad, and carefully loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped, go ahead and use your fingers to hold it in place like a pro.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently pivot the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you set the glass back in place. A clean screen is a happy screen!

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame—time to loosen those little guys!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Once it’s free, swing that LCD around along its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front panel. Nice and easy!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector like you’re unwrapping a present. Easy peasy!

– Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick of your fingers.

– Using your trusty fingers or a pair of tweezers, carefully slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.

– If your LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, give your iPad a quick restart by holding down the power and home buttons together for at least ten seconds until you see the Apple logo pop up. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently peel back the tape that holds the touchscreen ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of those sleek touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the sticky adhesive holding it down.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no sideways wiggles!

– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding that cable tight against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Gently use your fingers to wiggle the touchscreen ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad and set it aside.

– Unscrew those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board snugly against the aluminum frame.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse and you’ll be all set! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and get ready for the next step!

– Give that iOpener a cozy thirty-second microwave hug.

– As you work your magic on the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by giving it a quick reheat in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it cools down.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends. Trust us, the center can get really hot, so give it a firm but gentle grip to keep your hands safe!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then switch off the heat.

– Pop your iOpener into the hot water, making sure it’s fully submerged, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.

– Use tongs to carefully lift the iOpener out of the water—watch out, it’s hot!

– Dry it off thoroughly with a towel to avoid any drips.

– And just like that, your iOpener is good to go! Need to warm it up again? Repeat the boiling and soaking steps.

– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip, and let’s get that SIM tray out in style!

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its slot and take it out of the iPad.

– If you’re swapping the SIM card, pop out the old one from the tray and pop in the new one.

– Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards from going rogue and protect yourself by taping up the glass before diving in.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up like a present.

– Follow the rest of the guide as usual. Heads up: once the glass is fractured, it might keep cracking while you work, so you might have to carefully scoop out the pieces using a metal prying tool.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to open the front panel.

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the very tip is all it takes to pry it open a bit.

– Place your tool carefully between the plastic bezel and the front panel glass, making sure it’s in the sweet spot. This is where the magic happens!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside it to gently work things open.

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool out from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick.

– While you’re gently working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, heat up the iOpener once more and place it along the bottom edge of the device. Give it a moment to do its magic!

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, freeing the adhesive bit by bit as you go.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Before you pop that first opening pick out of the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Give that iOpener a little heat boost, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s get things warmed up!

– Alright, friends! Time to take it slow and steady. We’ve got some delicate work ahead.

– Carefully detach the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, making sure to treat those fragile connections to the bottom of the iPad like the precious gems they are. Pay close attention to the upcoming steps!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, carefully working through the adhesive there.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ll feel the adhesive give way over the Wi-Fi antenna—no pressure, just a smooth motion!

– Once you’ve made it past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.

– Slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Be gentle, but firm!

– The antenna is held in place with screws and a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step will separate the antenna from the front panel, so when you remove the panel, you won’t risk damaging it.

– Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. Make sure to pull that opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve successfully passed the home button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’ve got this!

– Gently peel back the adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad—take your time, no rush!

– Keep the opening pick tucked underneath the front glass near the home button. It’ll help keep everything steady while you work.

– Give that iOpener a quick spin in the microwave and then place it right on the left edge of the iPad. This will help the adhesive in that area to warm up and loosen up a bit.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little nudge to get around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This section has some pretty thick adhesive, so you might need to apply a bit more force. Go slow and steady—it’s easy to slip and damage your iPad if you’re not careful.

– If the opening pick seems stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, just like in step 9.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and glide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive as you go! It’s pretty thin here, thanks to the digitizer hanging out along the whole left side. Just be sure to keep the pick no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental run-ins with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– Slide the opening pick, which is still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Take an opening pick and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s loose, grab it with your fingers and give it a little tug.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the body of the iPad. A little rotation goes a long way!

– Before you put everything back together, take a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean. Dust and fingerprints be gone!

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the four 2 mm screws holding that LCD in place on the aluminum frame. Gently set them aside—you’ll need them again soon!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Swing the LCD up from the left side and carefully rest it on top of the front panel.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the tape to lift and reveal the LCD ribbon cable connector beneath.

– Gently lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

– If the LCD screen doesn’t turn on after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a quick restart by holding down the power and home buttons together for at least ten seconds, until you see the Apple logo.

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to avoid touching the front. Take it slow and steady!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up that piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. Take your time, no rush!

– Gently lift the little flap on both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the digitizer ribbon cable to break the adhesive seal.

– Once you’ve loosened it up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its sockets on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully break the adhesive holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. Take your time, no rush!

– Gently wiggle the touchscreen ribbon cable free from its groove in the aluminum frame using your fingers.

– Lift the front panel off the iPad to reveal the inner components.

– Gently peel away and take off the bit of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.

– With the tip of your trusty spudger, lift up the little retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are keeping the headphone jack cable attached to the logic board.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable to break free the sticky adhesive holding it onto the rear aluminum frame. Easy does it!

– Now, give that headphone jack assembly cable a straight pull to release it from its socket on the logic board. You’re almost there!

– Carefully peel back and take off the tape that’s holding down the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Gently flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector—think of it like opening a tiny door.

– Use the tip of a spudger to pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Steady hands win here!

– Unscrew the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the SIM board snugly against the aluminum frame. You’re doing great!

– Gently hold the headphone jack assembly cable aside and carefully lift the SIM board out of the iPad.

– Gently lift and peel away the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly.

– Use your trusty Phillips #0 screwdriver to take out the lone 2.6 mm screw that holds the camera cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’re almost there!

– Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger to pop the front-facing camera out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep that spudger in place and slide it to the right to peel back the adhesive securing the camera cable.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on that microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Now, slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of its cozy ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

– Give that spudger a little wiggle to the left to break the adhesive bond holding the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’re almost there!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the antenna connector cable to lift it out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly board. Easy does it!

– Lift up the little flap holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector on the headphone jack assembly board.

– Gently pop the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.

– Time to get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly! Here’s what you’ll need to remove:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Grasp the headphone jack assembly’s ribbon cable and gently slide the assembly straight down, keeping it close and parallel to the iPad.

– Grab the headphone jack assembly with both hands and gently pull it away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag any cables along the way—take your time!

– First, grab your screwdriver and start removing the screws holding the power & volume button cable to the aluminum frame. Here’s what you need:

– Two 5.5 mm Phillips #0 screws

– One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Peel off the plastic covering the volume buttons, like you’re unwrapping a gift—just a little less festive!

– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the volume button frame attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor—take it slow to keep that delicate cable safe.

– Gently work the tool around the sensor to loosen up the adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently slide your spudger under the power and volume cables to loosen that sticky adhesive without a fuss.

– Gently use the tip of the spudger—skip the wide edge here—to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the volume button branch of the ribbon cable.

– Keep sliding the spudger tip up toward the top of the iPad to gently free the adhesive and keep things moving.

– Keeping the spudger tip tucked under the ribbon cable, carefully pop the power button loose from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Grab the power & volume button cable with both hands and gently pull the volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy spots in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift and remove the power & volume button cable from the back of the aluminum case, making sure everything stays intact.

– Use the spudger to gently nudge the mute/lock switch out of its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift the mute/lock switch away from the back aluminum case and set it aside.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave like a pro!

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!

– As you work through the repair, remember to reheat the iOpener in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your hands safe from the steamy center.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.

– Drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely submerged.

– Carefully fish out the warm iOpener using tongs.

– Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to roll.

– Your iOpener is all set! If it cools down, just heat the water again to a boil, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– Grab a SIM eject tool or an unbent paperclip and gently pop that SIM tray out like a pro!

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little spot and set it free from your iPad.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of its tray and slide in the new one like a pro!

– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Grab some tape to keep those pesky shards contained and avoid any accidental pokes while you work your magic.

– Start by layering some clear packing tape over your iPad’s display like you’re frosting a cake—overlapping those strips until the entire face is covered.

– Now, as you dive into the rest of the guide, just a heads up: once that glass starts to break, it might keep on cracking. If that happens, a metal prying tool can help you scoop out the pieces. You’re doing great—keep it up!

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try opening up the front panel.

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little tip insertion is enough to start prying the crack open.

– Be sure to slide that tool right into the sweet spot—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into that gap, just next to the tool. Easy does it!

– Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. Keep it smooth and steady!

– As you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another heat-up and set it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– While the bottom edge is soaking up some heat from the iOpener, let’s get the party started by releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide your trusty opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, peeling away that adhesive like a pro!

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the sticky adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that glue and make progress!

– Before you pull that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again and move it to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up nicely.

– Heads up: the next steps need you to be extra careful.

– You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing with the delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding there.

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’re doing great!

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm in from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step makes sure the antenna stays safe and sound when you lift the front panel.

– Keep sliding the opening pick under the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully looping it around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, pop the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep to keep that adhesive release going.

– Keep peeling the adhesive carefully all along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass close to the home button.

– Warm up your iOpener in the microwave and place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This section has some pretty strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be careful—no one wants to harm themselves or their precious iPad!

– If the opening pick feels like it’s caught in the sticky stuff, try giving it a little roll, just like we showed in step 9.

– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide that opening pick around the top left corner like you’re making a smooth turn on a dance floor.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it do its magic to release the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is a bit shy here, thanks to the digitizer that runs along the entire left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep that pick shallow (no deeper than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– Grab that trusty opening pick you’ve got tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad. Now, let’s gently free the adhesive that’s holding things together in the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then lift it up enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device like you’re opening a treasure chest.

– When it’s time to put everything back together, take a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a nice clean-up, removing any pesky dust or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.

– Go ahead and remove those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD from the iPad. No rush, just take it slow and steady.

– Now, rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully place it on top of the front panel. It’s like flipping a pancake, but way more rewarding!

– Carefully use the tip of your spudger to lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector underneath.

– Gently lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector — it’s like opening a tiny door for your cable to slide out.

– Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or some tweezers, no heavy lifting required.

– If your iPad refuses to wake up after reconnecting the LCD, do a quick force restart by holding the power and home buttons for around ten seconds until the Apple logo shows up — like giving it a little nudge. If things still don’t light up, you can always schedule a repair.

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without making any contact with the screen. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift and peel back the tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board—slow and steady wins the race!

– Lift up the little retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the touchscreen ribbon cable. It’s a simple move, but it sets you up for success!

– Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive holding down the digitizer ribbon cable.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.

– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable snugly against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Gently coax that touchscreen ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame using just your fingers. It’s a bit like giving it a little nudge to come out and play!

– Now, let’s go ahead and detach the front panel from the iPad. Think of it as peeling off a sticker, only way cooler!

– Gently peel back and remove the strip of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.

– With the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully lift the little retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable onto the logic board.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable. You’ll want to carefully lift it free from the adhesive that’s holding it to the rear aluminum frame.

– Once that’s done, pull the headphone jack assembly cable out of its socket on the logic board. It should come right out without too much fuss.

– Gently peel back and remove the tape that’s protecting the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Flip up the little flap holding the SIM board cable ZIF connector in place.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

– Unscrew those three tiny 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board snugly against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Carefully hold the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, then go ahead and remove the SIM board from the iPad.

– Gently lift and peel off the sticky tape that’s keeping the headphone jack assembly snug and secure.

– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly—easy does it!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the front-facing camera off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the camera cable down.

– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

– Carefully slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable to detach it from its ZIF connector.

– Now, glide the spudger to the left to break the adhesive that’s holding the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly.

– Gently slide the flat end of the spudger under the antenna connector cable and lift it out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You’re doing great!