Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Before you start taking apart your iPad, make sure the battery is below 25%. It’s like a safety check to keep everything running smooth. No one likes a surprise battery explosion, right?
Follow this guide to swap out the left speaker on your iPad 9 Wi-Fi model. Heads up: this walkthrough is just for the Wi-Fi version; if you have the LTE model, check out the appropriate guide instead. For safety’s sake, drain your battery below 25% before you start taking your iPad apart—this lowers the chance of fire if the battery gets nicked during the repair. If your battery looks swollen, take extra care. Be super cautious when disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker since those contacts are fragile and easy to wreck. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless absolutely needed (like removing screws) so you don’t accidentally short anything and damage delicate circuits. Some photos might be from a slightly different model, but don’t worry—any small differences won’t throw off the repair steps.
Step 1
Before diving into the repair, make sure to power down your iPad. It’s always a good idea to work with a device that’s taking a nap!
– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
– As the adhesive starts to chill and loosen up, keep an eye out for these sneaky spots that really don’t like being pried open:
– Front camera
– Antennas
– Display cables
– Ambient light sensors
Step 3
In the next three steps, we’re going to show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little tool we’ve created to help make opening your device a breeze. If you don’t have the Anti-Clamp handy, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for another method.
For all the juicy details on how to get the most out of the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a little tape can work wonders to add some traction!
– Give the blue handle a little tug backward to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms. It’s like letting them stretch out after a workout!
– Place something sturdy underneath your iPad to keep it balanced and level between the suction cups. A little support goes a long way!
– Now, position those suction cups around the middle of the left edge—one on the top, one on the bottom. Think of it as placing your feet just right on a balance beam.
– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then press down firmly on the top suction cup. It’s all about applying just the right amount of suction power.
Step 4
– Give that blue handle a little push forward to lock those arms in place!
– Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups stretching out. You’ve got this!
– Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re staying in sync. If they start to drift out of line, just loosen them up a bit and realign those arms. Easy peasy!
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at once, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their magic!
If you’re not sure how to use a hair dryer, we’ve got you covered! Check out this guide for all the details.
Having trouble with the Anti-Clamp? No worries! Just heat things up a bit more and rotate the handle clockwise by half a turn to get the gap you need.
– Give it a minute to let the adhesive do its thing and form a gap for you to work with.
– If the screen isn’t heating up enough, a hair dryer along the left edge of your iPad should do the trick.
– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made enough space.
– You can skip the next step. Smooth sailing ahead!
Step 6
Let’s dive into opening up that iPad using a trusty suction handle! If your display is looking a bit worse for wear with cracks, don’t fret! Just slap a layer of clear packing tape over it—this will help the suction cup stick like magic. Feeling adventurous? You can also use some super strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if you’re in a real bind, a little superglue on the suction cup can work wonders to attach it to the broken screen. You’ve got this!
– When the screen feels warm and cozy, stick a suction handle onto the left edge, right up close to the border.
– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame to start the separation.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if that opening pick is peeking through the digitizer — just gently pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky adhesive that could be a pain to clean up later.
– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff.
Step 9
– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive’s grip.
– Once you’re there, leave the pick in place to keep that pesky adhesive from reattaching.
Step 10
– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Take care not to slide the pick over the front camera, or you might end up giving the lens a little too much love! Follow the steps ahead to keep everything safe and sound.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, and stop just shy of the front camera. You’re doing great!
Step 13
– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.
– Carefully slide the pick over the top of the front camera to loosen the adhesive.
– Rest the pick near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
– Slide that pick back in and shimmy it over to the top-right corner of your iPad to fully break the grip of the adhesive. You’re doing great!
– Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to stop that adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 15
– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the right edge of your iPad for about two minutes. Let that heat work its magic!
Tools Used
Step 16
– Twist that pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
Step 17
The display cables are nestled about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Just remember to stop sliding once you hit about 3 inches from the bottom—let’s not get carried away!
– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad’s right edge. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of your iPad for two minutes. Let the magic happen!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner; it could put a dent in the antenna’s day.
Check out the third image to spot the bottom-left antenna hanging out just beneath the digitizer.
– Gently slide the pick to the bottom-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
– Keep the pick right there in the corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently towards the home button—going the other way could mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to get back on track.
– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
– Let the pick rest to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
– Gently slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. You’re doing great!
– Now, carefully maneuver the pick under the home button and glide it over toward the bottom-right corner. Just make sure only the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame. You’re almost there!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button—it’s like giving it a little nudge! Just remember, pushing away might give that antenna a not-so-happy day.
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy peasy!
– Slide the pick back in and gently wiggle it towards the home button to fully free up that bottom adhesive.
– Once it’s loosened, rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
– Grab your iOpener and warm it up. Then, give the right edge of your iPad a nice two-minute heat session.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy during this step! Make sure to give yourself plenty of time. Ensure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and use a pick to gently separate all the adhesive. And hey, if you need to pause and reheat, that’s totally cool!
If you feel a lot of stubborn resistance, give the edges another warm-up and gently slide an opening pick along them.
– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer a bit. This will help you slowly peel away the last of that stubborn adhesive. Take it easy, we’re almost there!
Step 25
As you go through the next steps, do your best to avoid touching the back of the glass or the LCD surface with your fingers—those sneaky fingerprints can be a real pain to wipe away.
– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to peel away the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
Step 26
Watch out for those two digitizer cables while you’re working with your opening pick—let’s keep them safe and sound!
– While holding the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to break through the final bit of adhesive. Patience is key here, just take your time and let the pick do its thing.
Step 27
– After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
– When putting things back together, make sure to wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer—if you’re planning to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble the iPad. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and go ahead and unscrew those four 4.2 mm-long screws holding the LCD to the frame. You’ve got this!
– As you tackle this repair, keep a close eye on each screw and remember where it came from. This way, your iPad will stay safe and sound without any mix-ups!
– Don’t forget to peel away any tape that might be hiding those LCD screws. Let’s give them the spotlight they deserve!
Step 29
Take it easy and don’t try to yank the LCD out just yet – it’s still connected by a few cables around the home button area.
Only lift the LCD from the top (camera end) to keep things smooth and easy.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD out of its cozy little spot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the page of a really good book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the frame.
– Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface, giving yourself some room to work with those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 30
– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board.
Step 31
Here’s a peek at the battery connector under the logic board. Keep these images handy as you carefully disconnect the battery.
You’ll notice the battery connector has some cantilever springs that press down onto the battery contact pads. Since both the board and battery are glued in place, you’ll need to slip something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
Take your time and follow these steps closely when isolating the battery with a battery blocker. Those battery contacts are delicate and can bend or break easily, which is a one-way ticket to trouble.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up like it’s ready for its close-up!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector like it’s been a long day—gentle does it! If the battery blocker is giving you a hard time fitting under the logic board, a playing card can swoop in as your trusty sidekick to help disconnect the battery.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board, no obstacles in sight! Once it’s in, it should sit at a cool 15-degree angle, just chilling.
– Gently slide that battery blocker right under the logic board’s battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. You’re doing great!
– Keep that battery blocker in position while you tackle the next steps. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 33
– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and take out the three 1.4 mm screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place. Simple enough, right?
Step 34
– Carefully remove the display cable bracket. Take your time and ensure it’s fully detached before moving on!
Step 35
– Grab the flat side of your trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Be gentle, no need for Hulk strength here!
– When it’s time to reattach the press connectors, carefully line up one side, press down gently until it clicks, then repeat the process on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle – no bending pins allowed! A misaligned connector can cause some serious damage, so take it slow and steady.
Tools Used
Step 36
– Carefully lift the LCD off completely and lay it down face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe.
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
– Grab a spudger, opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged lock on the home button cable’s ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 39
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from the ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 40
Take care of your iPad like it’s your best buddy! When you’re prying things open, make sure to stick to the connectors themselves and steer clear of the socket on the logic board. Your iPad will thank you for it!
– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop up and unplug the two digitizer cable press connectors.
Tools Used
Step 41
Be super careful not to poke or rip that home button ribbon cable! It’s delicate, so treat it with love.
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the buffer block located at the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
– Carefully take out the buffer block.
Tools Used
Step 42
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the frame. Take your time and make sure everything comes off nice and easy.
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that might still be holding the front panel assembly tightly to the frame. Let’s free that screen!
Watch out! Without the right insulation, those spots on the digitizer might accidentally touch other components, leading to some serious touch input drama.
Just a heads up, the insulation is like a ninja – invisible to the naked eye and different from the foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads.
– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
– If you notice any weird “ghost” or “phantom” touches on your new display, don’t panic! This usually happens because of static issues and can be fixed by placing a super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the marked spots at the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with this insulation, so you probably won’t need extra tape.
– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad’s surface. Then, clean those sticky spots with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) using a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface so new adhesive sticks perfectly.
– Before sealing your iPad back up, test all its functions to make sure everything’s working. Then, apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display by following the display adhesive application guide. You’re almost there!
Step 44
– Gently slide the pointed end of your spudger under the left antenna cable and lift straight up to unplug it like a pro.
– When putting everything back together, these little connectors can be a bit stubborn. Hold each connector steady over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger until you hear that satisfying snap.
Tools Used
Step 45
Hold the antenna cable by the cable itself, not by the connector. Tugging on the connectors can cause them to snap—let’s keep things intact!
The tape holding down the left antenna cable is hiding under the tape that’s keeping the right antenna cable in place. If you’re having a bit of a struggle, don’t hesitate to disconnect and gently peel back the right antenna cable.
– Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the back case.
Step 47
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those three screws holding the left antenna in place. You’ll be looking for one 2.2 mm-long screw and two 1.3 mm-long screws. Let’s get to it!
Step 48
The antenna cable is held in place on the speaker by a tiny metal bracket. This bracket is permanently crimped onto the antenna and stuck down onto the speaker housing. To get the antenna out, you’ll need to carefully cut through the adhesive holding it all together.
– Slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket like a pro.
– Gently glide the pick toward the charging port to slice through that sticky adhesive.
– Give the bracket a little nudge away from the speaker to free it from the tape hiding underneath.
Step 49
– Gently wedge an opening pick between the antenna and speaker assembly.
– Carefully slide the pick under the antenna to slice through the foam adhesive.
– Lift out the left antenna with a smooth move.
Step 50
Feel free to either peel off all the tape or just go as far as you need to reach that left speaker ZIF connector. Either way, you’ve got this!
– Grab a pair of tweezers or just your trusty fingernail and gently lift up that tape covering the speaker connectors. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 51
– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the left speaker cable’s ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 52
– Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the left speaker cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 53
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and go ahead and unscrew that 2.2 mm-long screw holding the left speaker in place. You’ve got this!
Step 54
– Peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker stuck to the rear case.
Step 55
– Slide the flat end of your spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, right near the corner of the rear case.
– Gently nudge the speaker away from the rear case to loosen it up.
– Carefully push the speaker out from under the shelf on the rear case, like freeing a little hidden treasure.
Tools Used
Step 56
– Put your device back together by reversing the steps you just followed.
– Remember to drop off your electronic waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
– If the repair didn’t quite work out, try some basic troubleshooting, or swing by our iPad 9 Answers community for a helping hand.
– And if you hit a wall, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us!
Success!
