Author: Ralph Harris

– Place the iOpener in the middle of your microwave. Give it a cozy spot to warm up and work its magic.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.

– As you go through the repair, if the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep it nice and warm.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends. This way, you can avoid touching the hot center and make sure everything stays cool.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.

– Gently dunk your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Carefully fish out the warm iOpener using tongs—hot hands are no fun!

– Give it a good towel dry so it’s ready to go without any drips.

– Your iOpener is all warmed up and ready for action! If it cools off before you’re done, just repeat the boiling water step to heat it up again.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping up the glass first.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it lies flat and covers the surface nicely for optimal heat contact.

– Let the iOpener sit there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to open the front panel.

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little spot is your secret entry point.

– Line up your plastic opening tool with the mute button. Gently slip just the tip of the tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to give that gap a little wiggle room.

– Make sure to slide the tool carefully between the plastic bezel and the front panel glass. A little finesse goes a long way here.

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in the gap to gently work your way around.

– Take the plastic opening tool off the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick under the front glass, going in about half an inch. Keep it steady and make sure you don’t rush—it’ll make the next steps much easier!

– While you’re loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and warm up the iOpener again, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things cozy.

– While the bottom edge is getting a warm hug from the iOpener, start working on releasing the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.

– Slide the opening pick down the edge of your iPad, gently loosening the adhesive as you go. Take your time, you’re doing great!

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff without any fuss.

– Before you take out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm.

– Heads up: the next steps need you to be extra careful.

– You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow these steps closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, releasing the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. It’s a bit of a delicate dance, but nothing you can’t handle!

– Alright, you’re almost there! Once you’ve moved past the Wi-Fi antenna (it’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right near the home button), slide the opening pick back in to its full depth.

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right, and you’ll feel the adhesive release, freeing up the Wi-Fi antenna from the front glass.

– The antenna is connected to the bottom of the iPad by screws and a cable. By detaching it here, you make sure the antenna stays safe and sound when you remove the front panel. No need to worry about damaging it!

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to curve around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’re past the button.

– Keep peeling the adhesive carefully along the entire bottom edge of the iPad.

– Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass close to the home button to hold your progress.

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently heat up the adhesive in that area.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, nudging it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is pretty thick, so you might need to apply a little extra muscle. Take your time and be cautious – you don’t want to slip and hurt yourself or your iPad.

– If the pick is sticking to the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9 to ease the process.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick smoothly around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the whole left side. Keep that pick shallow—no more than 10 mm (about 1/2 inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer damage.

– With the opening pick still tucked underneath the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work it along the bottom left corner to peel back the adhesive. Nice and easy, you got this!

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift and grab it with your fingers.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. No rush here, take it slow.

– Before you seal it all back up, give that LCD a little TLC. Use a microfiber cloth and a puff of compressed air to make sure it’s free of dust and fingerprints. That’ll make the glass installation much smoother!

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.

– Once you’ve got the edge lifted, rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully place it down on top of the front panel.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Keep it steady, you’re almost there!

– Lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector, just like you’re opening a little door.

– Gently pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or a pair of tweezers. No need to yank—slow and steady wins the race.

– If the LCD screen doesn’t power up after you reconnect the ZIF connector, try a quick reboot by holding down both the power and home buttons for about ten seconds until you see the Apple logo. It might just need a little nudge to get going.

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, making sure not to touch the screen. Take your time, you’ve got this!

– Gently lift the tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board using the tip of a spudger. Take it slow and steady!

– Gently lift the little flap on both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently work the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully break up the adhesive holding it down.

– Once loosened, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connection points on the logic board with a steady hand.

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully lift the adhesive holding the cable in place on the rear aluminum case.

– Gently use your fingers to wiggle the touchscreen ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad.

– Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the home button control board firmly in place on the home button assembly.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps backward. Easy peasy! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave, making sure it’s cozy and centered.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.

– As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep it nice and toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of its flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot middle part.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water so your iOpener can take a full dip.

– Bring the water to a lively boil, then switch off the heat.

– Drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely submerged.

– Use tongs to fish out your now-toasty iOpener from the water.

– Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s nice and ready to go.

– Your iOpener is all set! Need to warm it up again? Just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for 2-3 minutes.

– Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Just make sure to prevent any further damage and avoid hurting yourself by taping up the glass.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over your iPad’s screen until it’s fully covered.

– Now, stick to the guide as closely as you can. But hey, once that glass starts to crack, it’s probably going to keep going, so don’t be afraid to grab a metal prying tool and gently scoop it out when needed.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it gently to make sure it sticks nicely to the surface.

– Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.

– You’ll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the top right corner of the iPad, about 2 inches (5 cm) down from the top edge. Time to make that small flaw work for you.

– Carefully align your tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of your plastic opening tool into that tiny gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. You only need to get the very tip in, just enough to widen that small crack.

– Place the tool carefully in the sweet spot—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. Make sure it’s snug, but don’t go too deep!

– Gently keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in the gap. Easy does it!

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool out from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick.

– As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener a quick warm-up and pop it back on the bottom edge to keep things toasty.

– While the bottom edge is getting cozy with the heat from the iOpener, start gently peeling off the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the side, letting it work its magic and release the adhesive as you go.

– If your opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, try gently “rolling” it along the iPad’s edge to keep loosening that sticky stuff and make progress.

– Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things ready for the next step.

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! The next few steps are a bit delicate, so let’s keep our cool.

– We need to carefully free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while avoiding any mishaps with the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s take it step by step and make sure we do this right!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break the adhesive seal. A little patience here goes a long way!

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady!

– Once you’re past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, just beside the home button), slide your opening pick all the way in until it’s fully inserted.

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right. This will release the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the front glass.

– The antenna is secured at the bottom of the device with screws and a cable. This step ensures the antenna comes free from the front panel without causing any damage when you remove it. Easy, right?

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, gently pulling the opening pick far enough to get around the home button. Once you’re past it, slide the pick in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to make sure you’re all set.

– Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of the iPad to free up the glass.

– Leave the opening pick tucked gently under the front glass near the home button to keep things open and ready.

– Heat up the iOpener in the microwave, then place it gently on the left edge of your iPad. This will start softening up that stubborn adhesive in no time.

– Start by sliding the opening pick gently along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out just enough to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This part can be a bit stubborn because the adhesive here is pretty thick. You might need to apply a little extra force, but take your time—patience is key! Be careful not to slip and end up with a surprise scratch or a bruised iPad.

– If your pick starts to stick in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, like we show in step 9, and it should glide much easier.

– Peel back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently work the opening pick around the top left corner. Take your time, and remember, patience is key to a smooth repair!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin on this side because of the digitizer running along the whole left edge. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than 10 mm (about 1/2 inch)—so you don’t accidentally mess up the digitizer.

– With the opening pick still hanging out under the bottom edge of your iPad, carefully work your way around the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive. Take your time here—patience is key.

– Grab an opening pick and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up enough to grab it with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give the front glass a gentle twist away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you pop the glass back on. A little TLC goes a long way!

– Grab your trusty screwdriver and take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame.

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Swing the LCD open like a door on its left side and let it rest carefully on top of the front panel.

– Gently lift the tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector using the tip of your trusty spudger.

– Gently flip up the little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector.

– Carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.

– If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try force restarting your iPad by holding down the power button and home button together for about ten seconds until the Apple logo appears.

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel—just don’t touch the front glass to keep it nice and safe.

– Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift that tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable down on the logic board—easy does it!

– Gently lift the little flap on both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place.

– Carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable, then use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pop loose the adhesive holding the cable to the rear aluminum case.

– Gently wiggle the touchscreen ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using just your fingers.

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad and set it aside.

– Peel off the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s like unveiling a tiny hidden treasure, just with less glitter.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. No rush—just a little flip and you’re good to go!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack cable, popping it free from the adhesive holding it to the aluminum frame. Nice and easy, you’re almost there!

– Now, just give the headphone jack cable a smooth, straight pull to disconnect it from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel back and lift off the tape that’s holding down the SIM board cable ZIF connector.

– Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector to unlock it.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

– Carefully unplug these connectors from their spots on the logic board:

– Wi-Fi antenna cable

– Speaker connector cable.

– Dock connector cable.

– Start by unscrewing the seven screws that are holding the logic board in place against the rear aluminum panel.

– Six screws are 2.1mm Phillips #00

– One screw is 2.5mm Phillips #00

– Grip the logic board along the edge closest to the dock connector, then gently slide it down toward the bottom of the iPad.

– Carefully flip the logic board over, keeping an eye out so no cables get caught.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to pop off the three antenna connectors from their spots on the logic board.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and warm.

– If it cools down while you’re working, just zap it again in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle part!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.

– Carefully dunk the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully soaked.

– Use tongs to lift the iOpener out of the water—watch those fingers!

– Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to work its magic.

– Ready to go! If you need to warm it up again, just repeat the boil, off-heat, soak routine for 2-3 minutes.

– Got a cracked display? No worries, let’s keep it under control and avoid any mishaps. Use some clear packing tape to keep the glass from shattering further and to stay safe while you’re at it.

– Start by laying down overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, covering the whole front. It might not be the most glamorous look, but it works!

– Follow the rest of the guide, but keep in mind that once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you go. If it does, grab a metal prying tool to help lift the pieces out, and don’t sweat it—you’ve got this!

– Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and flat so it’s making good contact with the surface. We want maximum warmth for this part.

– Let the iOpener sit there for around 90 seconds, giving it some time to work its magic before you go ahead and try to open the front panel.

– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button and gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the very tip to widen the gap—no need to force it.

– Be sure to position the tool just right—snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

– Slide the plastic opening tool’s tip into the gap between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick in right next to it. Keep it snug in place as you move along, like you’re tucking in a blanket!

– Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper underneath the front glass, aiming for a depth of about half an inch. Keep it steady and gentle, you got this!

– As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, go ahead and warm up the iOpener again, then place it back along the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, easing the adhesive away bit by bit.

– If the opening pick is giving you trouble and gets caught in the adhesive, just gently roll it along the side of the device to help loosen the adhesive and keep things moving.

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that stubborn adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and toasty.

– Alright, you’re about to dive into some precision work here, so make sure you’re ready to go slow and steady.

– Next up, you’re going to need to carefully release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super mindful of the delicate connections on the bottom of the iPad — they’re easy to damage, and we don’t want that! Take your time, and you’ll do just fine.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right corner of your iPad to release that sticky adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady—this step is key to getting things opened up cleanly!

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ll be loosening the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna, so take it slow and steady!

– After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step carefully separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you remove the panel.

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out just enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past it, tuck the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep and keep going!

– Gently peel back the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, taking your time to avoid any rush.

– Keep that trusty opening pick in place under the front glass, just near the home button, for that extra stability.

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat the adhesive in that spot.

– Start by sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad. Gently pull it out as you go around the front-facing camera bracket. Take it slow, and you’ll get there!

– The adhesive in this area can be pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some muscle. Just go carefully and don’t rush—no need to hurt yourself or your iPad!

– If the pick gets caught in the sticky stuff, try rolling it like shown in step 9. That should help you get through it a little easier.

– Keep peeling the adhesive along the top of the iPad, then carefully slide your opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, carefully loosening the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is super thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side—so keep the pick shallow (no deeper than 10 mm or about half an inch) to avoid any accidental damage.

– Now, using the trusty opening pick that’s still hanging out under the bottom edge of your iPad, carefully loosen up the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Take your time—this part is key to getting everything off smoothly!

– Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the body. Take it slow, no need to rush this part!

– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure to give that LCD a good clean with a microfiber cloth and a puff of compressed air. Get rid of any dust or fingerprints before you seal it up—your screen deserves to shine!

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame—think of it as gently freeing a trapped treasure!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Carefully swing the LCD up along its left side and let it rest on top of the front panel.

– Take the spudger and carefully use the tip to peel back the tape that’s holding the LCD ribbon cable connector in place. Nice and easy, no rush!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– Carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.

– If the screen doesn’t power on after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try force restarting your device. Just hold down the power and home buttons for about ten seconds until the Apple logo appears.

– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to avoid touching the front of the screen.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Gently lift the little flap holding down both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors—think of it like opening a tiny door to freedom!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the adhesive that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place.

– Now, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board. Don’t force it; it should come out smoothly!

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable, then use the flat end of a spudger to carefully free the adhesive holding the cable to the aluminum back case.

– Gently wiggle and pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.

– Lift the front panel off the iPad carefully and set it aside.

– Heat up the iOpener by popping it in the microwave for 30 seconds on the highest power—just enough to soften it up.

– Set the warm iOpener right over the home button at the front edge of the screen to get things ready.

– Slide the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and gently pry upward to break the adhesive seal on that side.

– Apply the same method as before to gently free the adhesive holding the left side of the home button in place.

– Carefully lift the home button mount away from the front panel.

– Gently wedge the edge of your plastic opening tool under the home button bracket. Give it a little nudge!

– Now, slide that plastic tool along the spring bracket to loosen the adhesive. Smooth moves will make this easy.

– Carefully lift the home button with the bracket off the front panel. It’s free! If you’re stuck, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for a helping hand.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave for a quick warm-up.

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!

– During your repair adventure, remember to reheat the iOpener in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Keep the warmth flowing!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle to keep your fingers happy.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully immerse your iOpener.

– Heat that water up to a boil, then turn off the heat once it’s bubbling away.

– Now, carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s completely submerged so it can soak up the heat.

– Using tongs (or something that keeps your hands safe), pull the iOpener out of the water.

– Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel, and you’re all set!

– Your iOpener’s ready for action! If you need to heat it up again, just repeat the process—bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener relax in there for another 2-3 minutes.

– Grab a SIM eject tool or an unfolded paperclip, and gently pop out the SIM tray like a pro. It’s that simple!

– Gently slide the SIM tray out from its cozy little spot and give it a friendly wave as you remove it from the iPad.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one. You’re doing great!

– If your display glass is cracked, keep any further shattering in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully sealed.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the broken glass out.

– Place the iOpener flat on the right side of your iPad. Give it a little smoothing action to make sure it’s making good contact with the surface.

– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you try opening up the front panel. Patience is key!

– You’ll notice a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the top right corner, about 2.0 inches (roughly 5 cm) down from the top. Time to use that gap to your advantage!

– Grab your plastic opening tool and align it with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of the tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just enough to give that crack a little nudge – don’t go overboard, just widen it slightly.

– Ensure you slide that tool right into the sweet spot—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

– Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Then, slide a plastic pick into the gap, right beside your tool. It’s a smooth move that gets the job done!

– Take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick under the front glass to about half an inch deep. Keep it steady and let’s make some progress!

– As you’re working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener another warm-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, it’s time to tackle that stubborn adhesive on the right edge of the iPad. Let’s get this party started!

– Grab your opening pick and slide it down the edge of the iPad. Keep that momentum going as you free the adhesive, and you’ll be on your way to a successful repair!

– If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just roll it along the side of the iPad to gently release the sticky stuff. Keep it moving and you’ll be golden.

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! These next steps are all about finesse.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while ensuring the delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad remain unscathed. So, take a deep breath and follow these steps with care!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break through the adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the iPad’s bottom edge, making sure to loosen the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time, and you’ll have it in no time!

– Once you’re past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick back in, all the way to its full depth.

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the front glass.

– The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step will detach it from the front panel, so when you remove the panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.

– Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. As you do this, slide that handy opening pick around the home button, then push it back in about half an inch (10 mm) after you’ve passed the button. You’ve got this!

– Carefully peel off the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad—take your time, it’s all about that smooth, steady pull.

– Keep the opening pick snugly under the front glass, just near the home button, to keep things in place while you work.

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave to get it nice and toasty, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making your repair journey a little smoother!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful to avoid any slips or scrapes on you or your device.

– If the pick gets stuck in the sticky stuff, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Peel away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad and gently work your opening pick around the top left corner. Take your time – it’s like a mini adventure for your device!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any oops moments with the digitizer.

– With the opening pick still tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge, gently work your way to free up the adhesive along the bottom-left corner.

– Use one of your opening picks to gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s loose, grab it with your fingers and carefully pull it up.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving your iPad a little stretch!

– When putting everything back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to blast away any pesky dust or fingerprints on the LCD before you pop that glass back on.

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame. A little twist here and there, and you’re on your way!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.

– Carefully swivel the LCD around its left edge and rest it face-up on the front panel.

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift up the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Gently lift the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.

– Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its spot on the logic board using your fingers or a pair of tweezers.

– If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a force restart by holding down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo appears.

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure not to touch the screen. Take your time and be careful!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift off the piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable in place. You’ve got this!

– Lift up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the touchscreen ribbon cables.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive hiding under the digitizer ribbon cable.

– Carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.

– Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully lift the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Gently use your fingers to pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out from its snug little home in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully remove the front panel from your iPad. It should come off without too much fuss, just give it a little nudge.

– Carefully peel back and remove the electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector—almost like unveiling a tiny secret.

– Use the tip of your trusty spudger to gently flip up the locking flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You got this!

– Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to gently break the adhesive bond holding it to the rear aluminum frame.

– Gently pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.

– Peel off the tape that’s hiding the SIM board cable ZIF connector – it’s ready to be revealed.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector – think of it as unlocking a treasure chest.

– Grab your spudger and carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Start by unscrewing the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board in place on the aluminum frame.

– Gently tuck the headphone jack assembly cable aside, then carefully lift the SIM board out of the iPad.

– Gently peel off the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly. Take your time, and remember, patience is key!

– Loosen up by removing the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep that spudger in place, then slide it to the right to let go of the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable stuck down.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Now, carefully slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable, and ease it out of the ZIF connector. No pressure, just a gentle touch.

– Take your spudger and glide it to the left to release the adhesive holding that microphone cable in place on the headphone jack assembly. Smooth and steady!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly board. No rush, just a little wiggle and you’ll be good to go!

– Lift the little flap that’s keeping the volume/power button ribbon cable connected to the headphone jack assembly board. It’s like unlocking a tiny secret compartment!

– Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector. It’s a delicate operation, so take it slow and steady.

– Alright, let’s get those screws out of the way! Here’s what you need to unscrew from the headphone jack assembly:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Grab the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and gently pull it toward the bottom of the iPad, making sure to keep it parallel to the device. Take it slow and steady, you’ll get there!

– Alright, it’s time to gently grab the headphone jack assembly with both hands and give it a careful pull away from the iPad. Keep an eye on any cables that might try to sneak into the action and get stuck!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently work it under the rear-facing camera. Lift it out of its socket on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. Easy peasy!

– The headphone jack board is still in place.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, and let it get warmed up!

– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like giving it a cozy blanket!

– As you work through the repair, keep that energy going by giving the iOpener another thirty-second zap in the microwave whenever it starts to chill out. A warm iOpener is a happy iOpener!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the toasty center. Stay safe and keep that cool vibe going!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it boiling.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to fish out the warmed-up iOpener from the water.

– Give it a good towel dry so it’s nice and ready to go.

– Your iOpener is now warmed up and ready! If it cools down before you’re done, just repeat the heating steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak for 2-3 minutes.

– If the display glass is cracked, help prevent further damage and keep things safe by taping over the cracks. It’s like giving your device a little armor!

– Apply clear packing tape in overlapping strips across the entire face of your iPad. The more, the better – cover that screen like you’re protecting your secrets.

– Continue following the guide as best as you can. But, heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently lift the glass out of its cozy spot.

– Place the iOpener gently along the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s flat and making good contact with the surface. You want that cozy, snug fit between the iPad and the iOpener.

– Give the iOpener a good 90 seconds to work its magic on the iPad. Once it’s had some time to warm things up, you’re all set to try opening the front panel.

– Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This little opening is your secret entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the bezel—just the tip, enough to nudge the crack open a bit.

– Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—make sure it’s in just the right spot to keep things smooth and safe.

– Keep that plastic opening tool snugly wedged between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Now, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to the tool. You’re doing great!

– Carefully take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, pushing it about 0.5 inches deep. Take your time and be precise.

– As you carefully work on loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to reheat it, then place it on the bottom edge to keep things nice and warm.

– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently prying off the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Slide the opening pick down the edge, slowly releasing the adhesive as you go. Take your time and be gentle!

– If your opening pick gets a bit too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep the sticky stuff from holding you back. Keep on releasing that adhesive like a pro!

– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move helps keep the adhesive from sticking back together. Trust us, it’s worth it!

– Give the iOpener a quick reheat and then move it to the top edge of the iPad. This will help loosen things up before you continue.

– Time to slow down and stay focused. These next few steps require a steady hand!

– Carefully detach the antenna from the front panel, making sure not to harm the delicate parts that connect it to the iPad’s bottom. Take your time with these steps to keep everything in perfect shape!

– Gently slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to release that stubborn adhesive. Nice and easy—just like peeling a sticker!

– Gently slide the pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, freeing the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady – the goal is smooth sailing, not a race!

– Once you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, or right near the home button), go ahead and slide the opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!

– Gently move the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. It’ll pop right out!

– The antenna is fixed at the bottom with screws and a cable. This step separates it from the front panel, ensuring it won’t get damaged when you remove the panel. Smooth sailing from here!

– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button, and once you’re past it, slide that pick back in to about a 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’re doing great!

– Keep peeling away that adhesive like a pro all along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Slide that opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently heat up that sticky adhesive.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.

– This part has some seriously sticky adhesive, so be prepared to put in a bit of elbow grease! Take your time and be cautious—nobody wants to end up with a damaged device or a sore finger.

– If your opening pick is having a tough time with the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, then slide that opening pick smoothly around the top left corner like a pro.

– Carefully slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, easing the adhesive off as you go. The adhesive here is thinner because of the digitizer, so be mindful. Keep the pick shallow—aim for no more than 10mm (about 1/2 inch) deep—to avoid damaging the digitizer. Take your time, and if things get tricky, feel free to schedule a repair.

– Grab the opening pick that’s hanging out under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently work it to release the sticky adhesive at the bottom left corner. It’s like peeling off a sticker—smooth and steady!

– Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting it back together, give the LCD a nice clean with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to shoo away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

– Let’s get this party started! Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad.

– Now, swing that LCD around its left edge and let it rest comfortably on top of the front panel.

– Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift the tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector — careful, it’s sneaky!

– Gently lift the little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– With a steady hand (or tweezers if you’re feeling fancy), slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.

– If the LCD screen is still playing hard to get and won’t turn on after connecting the ZIF connector, try giving your iPad a little restart. Hold down the power button and home button for at least ten seconds until that shiny Apple logo pops up.

– Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure not to touch the front of the screen.

– With the tip of a spudger in hand, gently lift the piece of tape that’s holding the touchscreen ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently flip up the little tabs on both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully break up the adhesive holding it down.

– Then, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.