Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s the star of the show!

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready for the job.

– As you work and the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but be sure to grab it from one of the flat ends—stay clear of the super-hot center. Safety first, my friend!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give that iOpener a nice, relaxing soak.

– Get the water boiling hot and then turn off the heat. Safety first!

– Now, carefully drop that iOpener into the steamy goodness for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged – we want it cozy in there!

– Using tongs (because we like our fingers intact), fish out the warm iOpener from its bath.

– Give it a good towel-dry – we don’t want any water hanging around.

– Boom! Your iOpener is all set and ready to rock! If it needs a little more heat later on, just repeat the boiling water ritual for another 2-3 minutes.

– Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you dive into the repair.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up nice and snug.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can, but heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat on the right side of your iPad, making sure it’s snug against the surface for solid contact.

– Let the bag rest there for around 90 seconds, giving it some time to work its magic before you try opening the front panel.

– Spotting a little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top, and that’s our ticket in! Let’s make the most of this tiny flaw.

– Get your tool ready and line it up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack will do the trick!

– Place the tool carefully where it belongs—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. That’s your sweet spot for a smooth repair process.

– With the plastic opening tool nestled gently between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it, keeping things nice and smooth as you go.

– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick beneath the front glass, going in about 0.5 inches. You’re doing great!

– While you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another quick reheat and pop it back on the bottom edge of the device. It’s all about that gentle heat to help everything peel away smoothly.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, easing the adhesive away as you go.

– If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to help loosen that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!

– Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, pop a second one under the right edge of the front glass. This helps prevent the adhesive from sticking back together. Smooth move, right?

– Heat up the iOpener again, and gently move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm. You’ve got this!

– Time to channel your inner repair ninja! The next few steps are a delicate dance, so let’s move with care.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Remember, we want to be careful not to harm the fragile bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free that pesky adhesive!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, easing away the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Nice and steady!

– After you’ve slid past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button—go ahead and slide that opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna hangs out attached to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about disconnecting it from the front panel so you can lift the panel without causing any antenna drama.

– Keep working your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, gently lifting the adhesive. When you get past the home button, carefully pull the opening pick out enough to curve it around the button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to keep the job moving smoothly.

– Keep sliding that adhesive release tool all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a smooth operator.

– Leave the opening pick chilling under the front glass close to the home button, keeping things ready for the next move.

– Heat up the iOpener in the microwave and place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that spot.

– Carefully slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, gently easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to use a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.

– If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the goo, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to help it glide through.

– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the left side of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty slim because of the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Keep the pick shallow (no more than about half an inch or 10 mm) to avoid giving the digitizer a surprise poke.

– Still holding the opening pick underneath the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work your way along the bottom left corner to free the adhesive. Take it slow—patience is key!

– Grab one of your opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then carefully lift and hold it with your fingers.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting it back together, give the LCD a little spa treatment with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to blast away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

– Loosen and remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame.

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a trusty spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front panel. Easy peasy!

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s protecting the LCD ribbon cable connector.

– Lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Easy, right?

– Now, gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board with your fingers or some tweezers. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to keep your hands clear of the screen. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the little flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place.

– Carefully and steadily pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its connectors on the logic board—patience is key here!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully release the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle your fingers and carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Now, it’s time to lift off the front panel from the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Carefully peel back the electrical tape covering the headphone jack connector – it’s like peeling a sticker off a new notebook, only more technical.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable in place. Easy does it – we’re almost there!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that’s been holding it snugly against the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel back and take off the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the front-facing camera connector out of its spot on the headphone jack assembly.

– Now, give the spudger a little slide to the right to break the adhesive holding the camera cable down. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the little retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the spudger’s tip under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of its ZIF connector with finesse.

– Now, glide that spudger to the left to free up the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug with the headphone jack assembly.

– Gently flip up the little flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector onto the headphone jack assembly board.

– Carefully slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.

– Let’s get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable away from the foam pad nestled in the top left corner of the rear case.

– If the adhesive is feeling a bit clingy, grab the flat end of a spudger to gently coax it free from the foam.

– Hold the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it out from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might be hanging around.

– Let’s kick things off by loosening the screws that are holding down the power and volume button cable to the aluminum frame:

– Two 5.5mm Phillips #0 screws

– One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Remember, these screws are angled into the aluminum frame, so keep your screwdriver aligned with the screw for a smooth operation. You’ve got this!

– Peel off the plastic cover from the volume buttons – it’s like unwrapping a gift, but for your phone!

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the single 2.6 mm screw that’s keeping the volume button frame locked to the aluminum frame. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor, being mindful not to tug too hard on that delicate cable.

– Carefully work the plastic opening tool around the sensor to break the adhesive seal.

– Keep sliding that plastic opening tool under the power & volume cables to gently free up the sticky adhesive holding them in place.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the adhesive lurking under the volume button branch of the ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the spudger tip upward toward the top of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive.

– With the spudger’s tip still under the ribbon cable, carefully coax the power button out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Grab the power & volume button cable with both hands and gently wiggle those volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy spots in the aluminum frame.

– Now, carefully lift and pull the power & volume button cable out from its snug home in the rear aluminum case. You got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax the mute/lock switch out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift and pull the mute/lock switch away from the back aluminum case.

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and get ready to heat things up!

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.

– As you go along and the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from that toasty center.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.

– Carefully dunk your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to fish the iOpener out of the water—watch out, it’s hot!

– Give your iOpener a good towel dry so it’s ready to work its magic.

– You’re all set! If it cools down and you need more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep things safe and sound during your repair! Grab some tape and cover that glass to prevent any further breakage and protect your fingers.

– Go ahead and lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until it’s all snugly covered. Think of it as giving your device a nice little bandage!

– Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as we walk through this together. Just a heads up, once the glass starts cracking, it might want to keep on doing its thing. You might need to bring in a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces. And remember, if you find yourself in a tough spot, you can always schedule a repair!

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try peeling open the front panel.

– Hey there! Check it out: there’s a tiny opening in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little vulnerability!

– Now, line up your tool with the mute button and gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little poke will do—enough to widen that crack for your next move!

– Be sure to position the tool just right—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– Wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to keep things moving.

– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad’s grip, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’re doing great!

– As you tackle that sticky adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love, then pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge, peeling away the adhesive as you move along.

– If your opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and warm.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hanging out there.

– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!

– After you’ve gone past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide your opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected with a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step makes sure the antenna detaches cleanly from the front panel so you don’t accidentally mess it up when removing the panel.

– Gently continue working your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. When you reach the home button, make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to go around it. Once you’ve passed the home button, reinsert the pick to about a half-inch (10 mm) deep, keeping things steady and smooth.

– Keep peeling that adhesive strip along the entire bottom edge of the iPad.

– Slip the opening pick under the front glass right by the home button and leave it there for now.

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it on the left side of the iPad to get that sticky adhesive nice and warm in that spot.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, nudging it out a bit as you maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some firm, steady pressure. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips or mishaps with your device or fingers.

– If your pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Keep peeling that adhesive off the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way! Remember, it’s a bit thinner here because of the digitizer stretching along that whole edge. Just be sure to keep the pick shallow—no more than about 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to keep that digitizer safe and sound!

– Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Grab an opening pick and carefully lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s lifted, gently hold it with your fingers to keep things steady.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting it back together, take a moment to wipe the LCD clean with a microfiber cloth and blast away any dust or smudges with some compressed air before snapping the glass back on.

– Loosen and take out the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. Keep them safe!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Swing the LCD open like a door on its left side and carefully lay it face-up on the front panel.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently peel back the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Take it slow and steady—this part’s like unwrapping a gift, but with a bit more care!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– With a little finesse from your fingers or some trusty tweezers, carefully tug the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel, keeping your hands off the screen side so it stays smudge-free and looking sharp.

– Gently lift the little retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. You’ve got this!

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen the adhesive holding it down.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—slow and steady wins the race!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then grab your spudger and carefully use its flat end to free the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. Take it slow, you’re doing great!

– Gently grip the digitizer ribbon cable with your fingers and pull it free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Now, carefully lift the front panel off your iPad. It’s like giving it a little nudge to set it free!

– Carefully peel back that piece of electrical tape that’s been keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector snug and secure. It’s time for some freedom!

– Using the tip of a trusty spudger, gently flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, freeing it from the adhesive that’s been keeping it cozy with the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its snug little home on the logic board.

– Gently peel away the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly. Take your time – it should come off smoothly.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the front-facing camera connector off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Slide the spudger to the right to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable in place.

– Grab your handy spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the spudger tip under the microphone ribbon cable to pop it out of its ZIF connector.

– Carefully move the spudger to the left to peel away the adhesive securing the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly.

– Lift up the little flap that’s holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector in place on the headphone jack assembly board.

– Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.

– Let’s get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable off the foam pad located at the top left corner of the rear case.

– If the ribbon cable is being stubborn, gently use the flat end of a spudger to free up the adhesive holding it to the foam.

– With a firm grip on the headphone jack assembly, gently pull it away from the iPad. Just keep an eye out for any cables that might be hanging on for dear life.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end beneath the rear-facing camera. Give it a little nudge to pop that camera right out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You’re doing great!

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—it’s like hitting rewind on your favorite song!

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and get ready to roll.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.

– As you work, if the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the sizzling center. Safety first, friends!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling, shut off the heat.

– Gently lower your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged and having a good time.

– Using tongs (safety first!), carefully fish out the warm iOpener from its steamy spa.

– Give it a good drying with a towel so it’s nice and ready for action.

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it relax in there for another 2-3 minutes.

– Got a cracked display glass? Keep it from getting any worse and protect your fingers by taping it up before you dive in.

– Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully sealed.

– Follow the guide as best as you can, but heads up—once the glass is cracked, it might keep spreading cracks as you work. You might need to carefully scoop out the glass shards using a metal prying tool.

– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little love tap for good measure. Make sure it’s making solid contact with that beautiful iPad surface.

– Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds. This gives it plenty of time to warm things up before you dive in and open the front panel.

– Look closely and you’ll notice a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, hanging out in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. It’s like a secret entrance just waiting for you to take advantage of it!

– Now, let’s get to work! Position your tool near the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in there, enough to widen the crack a bit. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—think of it as finding the perfect spot to gently pry things apart without causing a fuss.

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right alongside it to gently pry open the gap.

– Take the plastic opening tool off the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch in. Keep it smooth and steady!

– As you carefully work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and warm up the iOpener again, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and ready.

– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, peeling back the adhesive as you go.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Give your iOpener another warm-up, then move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and toasty.

– Alright, folks, it’s time to put on your safety goggles and take a deep breath! We’re entering the delicate territory here.

– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Remember, the goal is to keep those sensitive parts connected to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, let’s take it step by step and be super careful!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Carefully slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna.

– After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm in from the right edge, right near the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so you can remove the panel without causing any damage.

– Carefully peel back the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. Slide the opening pick around the home button, then gently push it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once it passes the button. Keep it steady and patient—it’s all part of the process!

– Keep working that adhesive loose all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!

– Once you’ve got it going, slide in the opening pick and leave it resting under the front glass by the home button.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave and place it along the left edge of the iPad. This will help loosen up the adhesive in that area, making your job a little easier.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little pull to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is pretty strong, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be careful not to slip—your iPad will thank you!

– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as demonstrated in step 9.

– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the top edge of your iPad and gently wiggle the opening pick around that top left corner like you’re giving it a little dance!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic to release that adhesive as you go. No worries, the adhesive is pretty thin here thanks to the digitizer stretching along the entire left side. Just be cautious and don’t push the pick too deep—aim for a max of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to keep that digitizer safe and sound.

– With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, it’s time to free the adhesive clinging on to the bottom left corner. Let’s give it a gentle nudge and set it free!

– Grab one of your opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and grip it with your fingers.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently twist the front glass away from the device.

– When putting everything back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. Keep them safe—they’re small but mighty!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Carefully swing the LCD open around its left side and let it rest on the front panel.

– Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector underneath.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector. Be careful, it’s like a tiny lid keeping everything in place.

– With a little help from your fingers (or tweezers if you’re feeling fancy), gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board. Take your time!

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching the screen. You’ve got this!

– Lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. Let’s get those connections ready!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Carefully wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its sockets on the logic board—steady hands win here!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully break the adhesive grip holding the cable to the rear aluminum case.

– Gently use your fingers to carefully lift the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the aluminum frame. Take your time – it’s not a race!

– Now, remove the front panel from the iPad. A little wiggle and it should come off with ease!

– Carefully peel off the electrical tape covering the headphone jack cable connector. It’s like peeling a sticker, but with more purpose.

– Grab your spudger and gently use the tip to lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors. These are the little guys holding your headphone jack cable in place on the logic board. Be gentle!

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to break free the adhesive holding it snugly against the rear aluminum frame.

– Once that’s done, carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.

– Gently peel back and take off the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end underneath the front-facing camera connector to pop it out of its cozy little socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Now, smoothly slide the spudger to the right, letting go of the adhesive that’s been holding the camera cable in place.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You got this!

– Gently wedge the spudger underneath the microphone ribbon cable and lift it out of its ZIF connector. Be careful not to damage the cable!

– Slide the spudger to the left to gently peel away the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable attached to the headphone jack assembly.

– Gently lift the little flap holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector on the headphone jack assembly board.

– Carefully slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.

– First, let’s get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly. You’ll need to remove the following:

– Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws

– Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws

– Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

– Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable away from the foam pad nestled in the top left corner of the rear case. Take your time with this step—it’s all about finesse!

– If the adhesive is being a bit stubborn, feel free to use the flat end of a spudger to gently coax it free from the foam. A little encouragement goes a long way!

– Grab the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it out of the iPad, keeping an eye on any cables that might be hanging out.

– Start by removing the screws that are holding the power & volume button cable in place on the aluminum frame:

– Two 5.5mm Phillips #0 screws

– One 2.6mm Phillips #0 screw

– Two more 2.6mm Phillips #0 screws

– These screws are angled into the frame, so make sure to line up your screwdriver with the screw for a smooth removal.

– Pop off the plastic cover that’s hiding those volume buttons. You’ve got this!

– Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s securing the volume button frame to the aluminum frame. Easy does it!

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor—watch out for that delicate cable!

– Gently work the plastic tool around the sensor to loosen the adhesive and set it free.

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool under the power and volume cables to break the adhesive seal. Patience is key—just take it slow and steady!

– With the pointy end of your trusty spudger, gently pry up the adhesive that’s holding the volume button branch of the ribbon cable in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger upward along the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.

– With the spudger’s tip nestled under the ribbon cable, give the power button a gentle nudge to lift it out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Grab the power and volume button cable with both hands, and gently wiggle the volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy spots in the aluminum frame.

– Now, carefully lift and slide the power & volume button cable right out of the rear aluminum case.

– Slip the plastic opening tool gently underneath the top edge of the power button. No need to rush, take it slow!

– Once it’s in, carefully lift the top side of the power button away from its bracket. Just a little nudge and it’ll pop right out!

– Give the underside of the power button a little love just like you did before.

– Now, gently lift and take away the power button bracket from the power & volume button assembly. You got this!

– Gently wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool under the top side of the rotation lock or mute switch.

– Carefully slide the tool downward to release the top part of the switch from its bracket.

– Slide the tip of your plastic opening tool under the top volume rocker and gently pry upwards to pop it free from the volume buttons bracket.

– Do the same for the bottom volume rocker—slide, pry, and separate it from the volume buttons bracket.

– Now it’s time to put everything back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you’ll be back in action in no time. If you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some extra help.

– Pop the iOpener right in the microwave’s center to heat it up just right.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready to work its magic.

– If the iOpener starts to cool down during your repair, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Safety first, my friend!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.

– Carefully dunk the iOpener into the hot water for 2 to 3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use tongs to fish the warm iOpener out of the water—no fingers in there!

– Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel.

– Now your iOpener is all set to go! If it cools down before you’re done, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps to heat it back up.

– Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping the glass up before you dive in.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up snugly.

– Follow the rest of the steps as usual, but heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work. You might need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds before you try to pop open the front panel.

– There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, up in the upper right corner—about 2 inches (5 cm) from the top. That’s your sweet spot to get started.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in, enough to widen the crack and get things moving.

– Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass—just the right spot to get things moving smoothly.

– With the plastic opening tool firmly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right beside your trusty tool.

– Take that handy plastic opening tool out from the iPad’s embrace, and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass to about half an inch deep. You’ve got this!

– As you start working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, warm up your iOpener again and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad. You’ll be on your way in no time!

– While the bottom edge gets cozy with the heat from your iOpener, start gently working on the right edge of the iPad to free the adhesive.

– Slide your opening pick down the iPad’s edge, letting the adhesive give way as you go. Smooth and steady wins the race!

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently ‘rolling’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before you go for that first opening pick in the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will help prevent the adhesive from sticking back down and causing trouble later.

– Heat up your iOpener again and gently move it over to the top edge of the iPad. A little warmth here will make the next steps a lot easier!

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! The next few steps are a bit like walking on a tightrope, so let’s keep our cool.

– We’re going to carefully peel back the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Remember, we want to do this without causing any harm to those delicate parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. So, let’s follow these steps closely and ace this repair together!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hanging out there.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.

– Once you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide the opening pick all the way back in until it’s fully seated.

– Now, gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is secured at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step ensures the antenna detaches from the front panel safely, so when you remove the panel, the antenna stays unharmed.

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to sneak around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that button.

– Gently work your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Take it slow, but steady!

– Leave the opening pick tucked just beneath the front glass, right near the home button. It’ll stay put and make your next move a breeze.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left side of your iPad to start softening the adhesive there.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, pulling it out a tad to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is quite strong, so you might need to apply a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be careful—no one wants to accidentally slip and hurt themselves or their iPad!

– If the opening pick seems to be getting stuck in the sticky stuff, give it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then carefully slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, freeing up that adhesive as you go! The adhesive is a bit shy here, thanks to the digitizer that runs along the whole left side. Just be careful not to dive in too deep – keep it to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) max to avoid any harm to that digitizer. You’ve got this!

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently pry up that adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty opening pick and give that bottom right corner of the iPad a gentle pry. Once it pops up, use your fingers to give it a little lift!

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.

– When putting things back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and blast away any dust or fingerprints with some compressed air before snapping the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. Keep these little guys safe!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Carefully swing the LCD up along its left edge and rest it on top of the front panel.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, but try to avoid touching the screen. You’re so close, just a little more to go!

– Lift the retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with care.

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to free up the adhesive holding it in place.

– Slowly and steadily pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no sudden moves!

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable, then use the flat end of your spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the cable to the aluminum back. Take it slow and steady!

– With a gentle tug from your fingers, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the aluminum frame.

– Now, it’s time to lift that front panel right off your iPad!

– Gently lift and peel away the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly—careful, you got this!

– Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pop the front-facing camera off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep the spudger in place, then slide it to the right to peel back the adhesive securing the camera’s ribbon cable. Smooth moves!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to wiggle the camera ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the plastic antenna housing. You’ve got this!

– Carefully take out the camera from the iPad.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector—easy does it!

– Now, slide the tip of the spudger underneath the microphone ribbon cable and carefully pop it out from its ZIF connector. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the microphone ribbon cable to loosen it from the sticky stuff holding it to the back case.

– Use the pointy tip of your spudger to carefully lift the microphone away from the rear case, like a pro.

– To put your device back together, just go through these steps in reverse.

– If you hit a snag or want some expert hands, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!

– Give that iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds!

– As you tackle the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. You’re doing great!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, but grab it by one of the flat ends—avoid the center, it’s toasty!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat.

– Place your iOpener fully underwater in the hot water for 2-3 minutes—let it soak up the heat.

– Use tongs to carefully pull the warmed-up iOpener out of the water.

– Dry it thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to work its magic.

– Your iOpener is all set! If it cools down and needs a quick recharge, just repeat the boiling water step and heat it up again for 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, it’s a good idea to tape it up to avoid more breakage and protect yourself while you work. A little extra care goes a long way!

– Take some clear packing tape and lay it down in overlapping strips over the iPad’s screen, covering the entire front. It’s like giving your screen a little shield.

– Continue following the guide as best as you can. Just keep in mind, once that glass starts to crack, it might want to keep going. You may need a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces as you go. If that sounds tricky, don’t worry—you can always schedule a repair for some expert help.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.

– Look closely at the upper right corner of your iPad. You’ll notice a small gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This is your starting point—time to make your move!

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide the very tip in, enough to create a small widening of the crack. No need to force it!

– Place the tool carefully between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. Get it just right – a little precision goes a long way!