Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave like a boss.

– Give the iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your repair tool!

– As you work through the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the warmth going. You’ve got this!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its two flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep your fingers safe and sound.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a rolling boil, then switch off the heat.

– Pop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.

– Carefully fish out the warmed iOpener using tongs.

– Give it a good dry with a towel to avoid drips.

– And just like that, your iOpener is ready to get to work! If it cools down before you’re done, just repeat the heating process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is snugly wrapped.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try popping open the front panel.

– Check it out! There’s a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little flaw!

– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to give that crack a little nudge!

– Carefully tuck your tool right where it belongs—slip it between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass with a smooth touch.

– Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Now, gently slide a plastic pick into the gap, right alongside the opening tool. It’s like fitting a puzzle piece—just a little nudge and you’re in!

– Now, gently remove the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. Nice and steady!

– As you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, don’t forget to give the iOpener another round of heat and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get our hands busy by starting to peel away the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that sticky stuff as you glide along.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad. Keep it moving to help break free that sticky bond.

– Before you dive into the fun of opening up your iPad, pop a second opening pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again!

– Give your iOpener a little warm-up, and then place it at the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and cozy.

– Heads up: the next steps need some serious care.

– You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow the steps closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right near the home button—slide the opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees it from the front panel so you won’t accidentally damage it when removing the panel.

– Keep on peeling that adhesive at the bottom of the iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’re past that button, slide it back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!

– Keep peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Pop in the opening pick to keep the front glass lifted near the home button. You’ve got this!

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick reheat and place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will start softening the adhesive in that spot, making it easier to work with.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket.

– Keep in mind, the adhesive here is pretty tenacious, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time, and be careful not to slip and hurt yourself or your iPad.

– If the opening pick starts to get stuck in that sticky stuff, try ‘rolling’ the pick just like you saw in step 9.

– Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, easing through the adhesive bit by bit. It’s a slim layer here because of the digitizer running along the side, so keep your pick shallow—no more than 10 mm (about 1/2 inch)—to avoid any oops moments with the digitizer.

– With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently peel back the adhesive along the bottom left corner. It’s a bit like unraveling a mystery, so take your time and be careful. You got this!

– Grab an opening pick and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad, then use your fingers to hold it in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like a little dance move!

– When putting things back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean-up before you seal the glass back on. Nobody likes a dusty screen!

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew those four 2 mm screws holding the LCD in place. They’re the ones keeping your screen snug in its aluminum home, so give them a gentle twist and set them aside.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest on top of the front panel. Nice and easy!

– Grab the tip of your spudger and gently peel away the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. Nice and easy – you’re doing great!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector, giving it a friendly nudge.

– With a little finesse—either with your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers—carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!

– Lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with care.

– Grab that flat end of your trusty spudger and gently work it under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free the adhesive that’s holding it down. You’ve got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then use the flat end of your spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding it to the back aluminum case.

– With a gentle touch, wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift the front panel off of the iPad and set it aside.

– Gently lift and peel away the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly.

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the front-facing camera to pop it off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.

– Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to peel back the adhesive securing the camera’s ribbon cable.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the camera ribbon cable out of its socket inside the plastic antenna housing.

– Now it’s time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and you’ll be back in action in no time. But hey, if you hit a snag or need a helping hand, feel free to schedule a repair!

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get things heated up!

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick 30-second warm-up.

– As you work, keep the iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another 30 seconds whenever it starts to cool down.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of that hot middle part!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to totally submerge your iOpener.

– Heat that water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. We’re almost there!

– Pop your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged in that steamy goodness.

– Using tongs (safety first!), carefully take the iOpener out of the hot water.

– Give your iOpener a nice dry with a towel – we don’t want any water spots!

– Boom! Your iOpener is good to go! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your display glass has decided to join the cracked club, let’s keep it from causing more chaos and protect those precious fingers while you work by slapping some tape on it!

– Grab some clear packing tape and layer it up over the iPad’s display until it’s all snug and secure. Think of it as a cozy blanket for your screen!

– Now, follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once the glass starts to break, it might get a bit rebellious and crack more while you’re at it. You might need to bring in a metal prying tool to scoop out those glass pieces like a pro.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and smooth for a solid connection between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener.

– Give it a little time—let the bag lounge on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.

– Spotting a little weakness? There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that!

– Get your tool lined up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge will do—enough to widen that tiny crack!

– Carefully slide your tool right where the plastic display bezel meets the front panel glass—precision is key here!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into that gap, just next to the tool. Easy does it!

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’ve got this!

– As you’re working on loosening the sticky stuff on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener a quick reheating session and then plop it right down on the bottom edge of the iPad. Let’s keep that momentum going!

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the side, easing the adhesive away bit by bit.

– If the opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep freeing up the sticky stuff.

– Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that stubborn adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it to the top edge of your iPad to get things ready for the next step.

– Heads up: the next steps require some serious finesse.

– You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without harming the fragile connections attaching it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.

– Gently slide that opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up the adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide your opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently glide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is fastened underneath the iPad with screws and a cable. This step frees the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays safe when you lift the panel off.

– Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to sneak around the home button. Once you’re past the button, pop the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep and keep going!

– Keep peeling the adhesive carefully along the entire bottom edge of the iPad.

– Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass right by the home button to hold your progress.

– Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a little toasty love and then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive in this area is a bit of a stronghold, so you might need to put in some muscle. Take your time and proceed with care to avoid any slips that could lead to trouble for you or your iPad.

– If you find the opening pick getting snagged in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, just like we showed you in step 9.

– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and then glide that trusty opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide your opening pick along the iPad’s left edge, easing through the adhesive like a pro. Heads up: the adhesive here is super thin because of the digitizer running along the whole left side. Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.

– Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive near the bottom left corner.

– Grab an opening pick and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold it with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– When you’re putting it all back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a good clean-up, banishing any dust bunnies or fingerprints before you seal it up with the glass.

– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. A little twist and you’re one step closer to the fix!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front panel. Easy peasy!

– With the spudger’s tip in hand, carefully lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps.

– Gently lift the retaining flap on that LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Now, using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, but make sure to avoid touching the front of the screen.

– Lift up the little retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently work the adhesive loose under the digitizer ribbon cable. Be patient, the adhesive doesn’t want to let go, but you’ve got this!

– Once that’s done, carefully wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board. Take it slow and steady, it’s all about precision here.

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– With a gentle tug, slide the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad. It’s like peeling off a sticker, but a bit more rewarding.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the plastic spacer nestled in the bottom left corner of the iPad.

– Carefully lift out the plastic spacer and set it aside.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the dock connector cable and lift it straight up from its cozy home on the logic board. You’re doing great!

– Now, carefully peel the dock connector cable away from the aluminum frame like you’re unwrapping a present. Almost there!

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove those two 1.8 mm screws holding the dock connector in place on the back aluminum case. You’re doing great!

– Now it’s time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps in reverse, and you’ll be back up and running in no time. If you hit any snags or need a hand, remember, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, nice and centered, just like a pro!

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a spa day for your tool!

– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty. Whenever it starts to cool off, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that steamy center. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely immerse your iOpener.

– Turn up the heat and get that water boiling. Once it’s bubbling away, switch off the heat.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully dunked!

– Using tongs, fish out the warmed-up iOpener from the water.

– Give your iOpener a good towel dry.

– And voilà, your iOpener is ready to go! If you find you need to warm it up again, just repeat the boiling process: heat the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.

– If your screen is looking a little worse for wear with a crack, let’s keep it from getting any worse and protect those fingers of yours! Grab some packing tape and cover that glass like a pro.

– Layer on some clear packing tape, overlapping those strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely wrapped up like a gift ready for unwrapping!

– Follow the guide as closely as you can. Just a heads up, once that glass starts to break, it might want to keep cracking while you work. You might find yourself using a metal prying tool to help scoop out those pieces. If the going gets tough, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert assistance!

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing down gently to make sure it’s making solid contact with the surface.

– Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.

– Check out the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the tip in just enough to start widening the crack.

– Carefully slide your tool in right where the plastic display bezel meets the front glass—precision is key!

– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the space right next to the tool.

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about half an inch deep.

– As you carefully work on loosening the adhesive along the iPad’s right side, pop that iOpener back in the microwave for a quick heat-up, then set it right back on the bottom edge to keep things toasty.

– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling away the adhesive bit by bit.

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.

– Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from getting sticky again.

– Warm up the iOpener once more, then shift it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and soft.

– Alright, listen up! We’re about to dive into some steps that need a steady hand and a lot of care.

– You’ll be carefully peeling away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember to be gentle so you don’t mess up the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow the upcoming steps closely.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You’re doing great!

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to break through the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully frees the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you take the panel off.

– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom of the iPad! Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to wrap around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, pop that pick back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You’ve got this!

– Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.

– Let the opening pick chill right under the front glass by the home button to keep things loose and ready.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a bit, then place it along the left edge of the iPad. This will start to soften up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, nudging it out a bit to carefully navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply a good amount of pressure. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or accidental damage to yourself or the iPad.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the glue, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Keep peeling off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently work the opening pick around the top left corner. It’s like giving your device a gentle nudge to open up and let you get to the good stuff inside!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive as you go! The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer stretching along the whole left side. Just a friendly tip: keep the pick no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– Take the trusty opening pick that’s still tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge and gently peel back the adhesive from the bottom left corner. No rush, just a little patience and you’ll be on your way!

– Grab an opening pick and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold it with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, give your LCD a little love with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any dust bunnies or fingerprints before the glass goes back on.

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snug against the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger, and gently pry up the right side of the LCD from the iPad.

– Now, carefully rotate the LCD along the left edge and let it rest on top of the front panel.

– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector.

– Lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

– Gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers. No rush, just take your time.

– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching the screen. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable.

– Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the adhesive holding it down.

– Slowly and carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—steady hands are your friends here!

– Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully lift the adhesive holding the cable in place on the rear aluminum case. A little patience goes a long way here!

– With a gentle touch, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Next up, let’s take off the front panel from the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Gently wiggle the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool between the plastic and aluminum frames, starting at one of those cozy corners.

– With care, glide that plastic tool along the edge of your iPad, as you free it from the clutches of adhesive.

– Keep sliding that plastic opening tool along the entire left edge of the iPad, just like a smooth dance move—steady and steady!

– As you approach the bottom left corner, give your plastic opening tool a little twist around the corner, and keep sliding it smoothly along the bottom edge.

– Keep gently sliding that plastic opening tool along the right edge of your iPad. A little more, you’ve got this!

– Watch out for the front-facing camera as you slide the plastic opening tool along the top edge of the iPad—no one wants a camera casualty on their watch!

– Once you’ve freed the adhesive around all the edges of your iPad, gently lift off the plastic display bezel. It should come away easily, so no need to wrestle with it!

– Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave and let it get nice and warm. Make sure it’s cozy in there!

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As the iOpener starts to cool down during the repair, give it a quick reheat in the microwave for another 30 seconds at a time. Keep it warm, keep it working!

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends, steering clear of the hot center to keep your fingers happy.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice cozy bath.

– Crank up the heat until the water bubbles like it just heard a good joke. Then, switch off the heat.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the warm water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s getting a good soak!

– Using some trusty tongs, fish out the warm iOpener from its bath.

– Give the iOpener a nice towel dry, because nobody likes a soggy tool.

– And just like that, your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little warmth again, just repeat the heating process.

– If your display glass is cracked, it’s a good idea to prevent any more breakage and keep things safe while you work by sticking on some tape.

– Cover the entire display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, making sure every inch of the screen is sealed up.

– Follow the guide as best as you can, but a heads-up: once that glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you work. Don’t worry, just grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the glass if needed.

– Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to lift the front panel.

– Spot the little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. It’s like a secret doorway just waiting for you to take advantage of it!

– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little push with the very tip of the tool will do the trick to widen that crack!

– Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass to get in just the right spot.

– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to your trusty tool. You’ve got this!

– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch or so. You’ve got this!

– While you’re gently peeling off the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener another round of heat and place it along the bottom edge of your device. Take your time – you’ve got this!

– While the iOpener is working its magic on the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, letting it do its thing as it frees the adhesive.

– If your opening pick decides to get cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep freeing up that sticky stuff.

– Before you take out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right side of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.

– Give the iOpener another warm-up, then slide it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and toasty.

– Alright, folks, it’s time to channel your inner repair ninja! Take a deep breath and get ready, because the next steps require some serious finesse.

– We’ll be carefully peeling back the adhesive that’s holding the antenna snugly to the front panel. Remember, we want to keep everything intact, so it’s super important to handle the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad with care. Follow along closely, and you’ll be a pro in no time!

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up that adhesive like a pro.

– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad. This will help release the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place.

– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna, which is about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge or right by the home button, pop that opening pick back in all the way.

– Now, slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

– Remember, the antenna is connected to the bottom of your iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial as it safely detaches the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift the panel off, the antenna stays intact and happy!

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to curve around the home button, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve gotten past the home button.

– Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all released. You’re almost there!

– Once you’ve got that, slide an opening pick in and leave it nestled under the front glass near the home button. It’s like a little friend holding the space for you!

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat the adhesive in that area.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is pretty strong, so you might need to bring out your inner strength! Take your time and be cautious to avoid slipping and causing any harm to yourself or your iPad.

– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as shown in step 9.

– Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the iPad’s left edge to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the side, so keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage.

– Slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently release the adhesive around the bottom left corner.

– With one of those handy opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little pinch with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!

– As you put everything back together, take a moment to pamper that LCD! Use a microfiber cloth and a burst of compressed air to whisk away any dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame—time to free that screen!

– Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.

– Swing the LCD up from its left edge and carefully lay it flat on top of the front panel.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that piece of tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector like you’re peeling back a cozy blanket.

– Gently lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable’s ZIF connector—think of it as opening a tiny door.

– Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its spot on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.

– Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel without making contact with the screen itself. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the little flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors — you’re almost there!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the adhesive holding it down.

– Slowly and carefully wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no sudden moves!

– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat edge of a spudger to carefully break the adhesive that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!

– Give that digitizer ribbon cable a gentle tug with your fingers to free it from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.

– Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad and set it aside. You’re doing great!

– Gently peel back and take off the piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.

– With the tip of your trusty spudger, lift up the little retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board in place.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum frame.

– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Time to get connected! Carefully unplug the following cables from their cozy homes on the logic board:

– Wi-Fi antenna cable

– Speaker connector cable.

– Dock connector cable.

– Let’s get those four screws out to free the logic board from the rear aluminum panel:

– Three 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screws

– One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw

– Carefully lift the logic board out from the back case of your iPad – you’re making great progress!

– The third generation iPad’s battery is glued down super tight to the aluminum frame with a serious amount of strong adhesive, so get ready to put on your patience hat!

– Gently slide the flat end of a metal spudger under the battery, aiming for the bottom area of the iPad.

– Carefully wiggle the metal spudger about 1.5 inches underneath the battery to break through that sticky adhesive.

– Just like we did before, gently slide the spudger about 2 inches under those pesky adhesive strips. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide that metal spudger under the battery connector to free it from the sticky adhesive holding it down.

– Keep on peeling away that adhesive up at the top of the battery. You’re doing great!

– Pick up where you left off and slide that trusty metal spudger about two inches deeper under the battery. You’re doing great!

– Now, let’s keep the momentum going and repeat this for those remaining adhesive strips. You’re almost there!

– Just like we did before, keep on loosening that adhesive along all the strips, going down about 4 inches. You’ve got this!

– For the final stretch, slide the metal spudger all the way to the right edge of your iPad. You’re almost there!

– Repeat this for each of the adhesive strips until they’re all taken care of.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps backward and you’ll be all set! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair for some extra help.

– Grab the home button carefully with a pair of tweezers.

– Slowly and smoothly set the home button into the circular slot at the bottom of the front panel.

– Gently peel away that first trapezoidal adhesive strip like you’re unveiling a surprise gift!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully position the first trapezoidal adhesive strip onto the matching side of the home button mounting bracket, making sure it’s oriented just right.

– Now, repeat the same for the second trapezoidal adhesive strip. Easy, right?

– Grab the corner of one of the adhesive strips on the mounting bracket with your tweezers, and give it a gentle tug.

– Carefully peel the brown backing off, revealing the sticky goodness of the clear adhesive underneath.

– Now, repeat the same steps for the second adhesive strip, keeping it smooth and steady.

– Carefully set the home button mounting bracket right on top of the home button, making sure it’s in the right spot.

– Hold off on peeling the brown backing off those strips for now!

– Grab the biggest L-shaped adhesive strip and place it snugly in the top left corner of the front panel.

– Gently smooth the strip down from the center outward, making sure not to trap any pesky air bubbles between the strip and the front panel.

– Grab the thinnest L-shaped adhesive strip and gently stick it to the bottom left corner of the front panel. It’s a tiny move with a big impact!

– Carefully stick the last thin L-shaped adhesive strip at the top right corner of the front panel, right next to the camera bracket. You’re almost there!

– Stick the straight adhesive strip along the right edge of the front panel like a pro.

– If the digitizer cable is already in place, no worries! Just carefully work around or under it to get that strip attached.

– Stick the final L-shaped adhesive strip on the bottom right corner of the front panel, like it’s a cozy spot just waiting to be sealed!

– Place the slender T-shaped adhesive strip snugly between the bottom edge of the inner frame of the front panel and the camera mounting bracket. Make sure the longest edge lines up perfectly with the inner frame.

– Carefully tuck the tiny hook-shaped adhesive strip just below the left side of the home button mounting bracket.

– Place the last small rectangular adhesive strip just to the left of the hook-shaped strip, right next to the thin L-shaped one, making sure it lines up perfectly with the bottom edge of the front panel.

– Now, just reverse those steps and put your device back together like a pro! If you hit any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. You’ve got this!