Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like a champ.

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.

– As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot middle. Safety first, always!

– Fill a pot or pan with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.

– Drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.

– Carefully grab the warm iOpener out with tongs.

– Dry it off thoroughly with a towel.

– Your iOpener is now good to go! If it cools down and needs reheating, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps.

– Got a cracked display? No worries! Grab some clear packing tape and lay it down over the screen to prevent any further breakage and keep things safe while you work.

– Start by overlapping strips of tape on the iPad’s display, covering the entire face. It might not look pretty, but it’ll do the job.

– Keep following the guide, and don’t stress if the glass cracks a bit more as you go. Once it’s broken, it might keep cracking, so be ready to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop the glass out if needed.

– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of your iPad, making sure to smooth it out for a snug fit with the iPad’s surface. We want them to be best buddies!

– Give the bag some quality time on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening that front panel. Patience is key!

– Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little gap is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick tip insertion—enough to nudge the crack open a bit.

– Carefully wedge the tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel—getting it in the perfect spot makes all the difference!

– Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right beside it.

– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad’s grasp, and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, going about 0.5 inches deep. You’ve got this!

– While you’re gently working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a quick reheat, then place it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a little extra help.

– While the bottom edge gets some heat from the iOpener, start peeling the adhesive off the right edge of the iPad.

– Slide your opening pick down along the edge, gently freeing the adhesive as you go.

– If your opening pick finds itself in a sticky situation with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad, and keep on working to free that adhesive like a pro!

– Before you pull out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Heat up the iOpener again, then move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm.

– Alright, time to channel your inner repair guru! The next steps are a bit tricky, so let’s tread lightly.

– You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be gentle; we don’t want to disturb the delicate bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow along closely, and we’ll get through this together!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna.

– After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide that opening pick all the way back in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right to free up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass—smooth moves only!

– The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully disconnects it from the front panel so you can lift the panel without causing any antenna drama.

– Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the bottom edge of your iPad. When you reach the home button, carefully pull the pick out enough to go around it, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) to keep things moving smoothly.

– Keep sliding that adhesive remover all along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.

– Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass close to the home button to keep things steady.

– Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up that sticky adhesive area.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little pull to navigate around that pesky front-facing camera bracket.

– This adhesive is no joke—it’s super thick, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time, and watch your fingers so you don’t slip and cause any harm to yourself or your iPad.

– If you find the opening pick getting stuck in that sticky adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as we showed you in step 9.

– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide that opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, letting it do its thing and releasing the adhesive as you go along. The adhesive is pretty slim here since the digitizer runs along the entire left side. Just be careful not to go too deep (keep it to a max of 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!

– Slide the opening pick that’s tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad, then hold it securely with your fingers.

– Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently flip the front glass away from the device.

– When putting it back together, give the LCD a little love by wiping it with a microfiber cloth and blowing away any dust with compressed air before snapping the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD firmly to the rear case. Keep them safe!

– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and swing it out from the rear case like a pro.

– Now, lay the LCD down on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture. You’re doing great!

– Gently pry up the metal clip holding the display data cable in place on the logic board using the edge of a plastic opening tool.

– Gently wiggle and pull the display data cable out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the LCD assembly off the iPad 2 to get things moving.

– Peel back that tiny black tape hiding the display data cable connector on the LCD—careful, it’s sneaky but important!

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the metal clip holding the display data cable connector and flip it up to unlock.

– Gently wiggle the display data cable out of its cozy socket and say goodbye to the LCD.

– Pop the iOpener right in the microwave’s center to get it warmed up and ready!

– Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.

– As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep those fingers happy.

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.

– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to overdo it!

– Now, gently lower your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, ensuring it’s fully submerged like it’s taking a spa day.

– Time to play it safe! Use some tongs to fish out the heated iOpener from the water.

– Give your iOpener a good towel dry to ensure it’s all set for action.

– Voila! Your iOpener is all prepped and ready to go! If it needs a little reheating, just repeat the steps: bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!

– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out the SIM card tray.

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and give it a little lift from the iPad 2.

– Thinking of giving your SIM card a fresh start? Just pop it out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one!

– If your display glass has cracked, keep those shards in check and avoid any accidental ouch moments by taping up the glass first.

– Cover the iPad’s display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is protected.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you might need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.

– Place the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and smooth for great contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener.

– Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you dive in and try to open up that front panel.

– Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. This little opening is your entry point.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the tip in enough to slightly pry the crack open.

– Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!

– While keeping the plastic opening tool snugly in the gap between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that same space, right alongside the tool. Let’s get that device open!

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch in. Keep it smooth and steady!

– As you carefully peel away the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love, and position it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.

– As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start working on releasing that stubborn adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing the adhesive along the way. You’re doing great!

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep on freeing that sticky stuff!

– Before you dive into the fun of removing that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will help keep the adhesive from playing tricks and sticking back down.

– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, then gently place it at the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and warm for the next steps.

– Alright, things are about to get a little tricky—proceed with care!

– Next up, you’ll need to carefully free the antenna from its adhesive grip on the front panel. Just make sure not to damage the fragile parts holding it in place. Take your time and follow the next steps closely. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna.

– After you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches from the right edge, or right next to the home button), go ahead and reinsert that opening pick all the way in.

– Now, give that pick a gentle slide to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.

– Keep in mind, the antenna is connected to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial as it separates the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift off the panel, you won’t accidentally mess up the antenna.

– Keep sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to curve around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that button.

– Keep peeling away that adhesive like a pro along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Pop that opening pick right under the front glass close to the home button and let it chill there.

– Give that iOpener a quick spin in the microwave and then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will kickstart the warming of the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.

– Carefully slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, nudging it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.

– Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn and thick, so you might need to apply some solid pressure. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or ouch moments for you or your iPad.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try “rolling” it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.

– Keep peeling away the sticky stuff along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide that opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad, peeling back the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just be sure to keep the pick shallow—about half an inch (10 mm) max—so you don’t accidentally damage that digitizer. Nice and easy does it!

– With the trusty opening pick still nestled at the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive free at the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!

– Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then lift it up enough to hold it securely with your fingers.

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. Easy does it, no rush!

– When you’re putting things back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean before putting the glass back on. A little TLC goes a long way!

– Let’s get those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws out of the way, so we can free the LCD from the rear case! Grab your screwdriver and show those screws who’s boss!

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and pivot it out of the rear case with care.

– Rest the LCD on the front panel just like you see in the second picture.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently use its edge to lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. Take it slow and steady, this step doesn’t need to rush!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently coax the digitizer cable away from the shields on the logic board. Think of it like peeling a sticker off, but with a little more finesse!

– Now, with a delicate touch, pull the digitizer cable free from the adhesive that’s holding it snugly against the side of the rear case. Easy does it, you got this!

– Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its snug little sockets on the logic board. Keep it steady and smooth, just like you’re easing a puzzle piece into place!

– Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge farthest away from the digitizer cable and gently flip it back like closing a book.

– While keeping the LCD lifted, slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out so the digitizer cable doesn’t get caught on the rear case or LCD.

– Place the LCD back into the body for safe keeping.

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like you’re flipping a page in your favorite book.

– Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath will help keep it scratch-free and happy.

– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel like it’s taking a little break.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give that display data cable lock a little nudge upwards.

– Now, give the display data cable a gentle pull to free it from its cozy socket.

– Gently lift the LCD assembly away from the rear panel assembly to separate the two parts.

– If there’s tape covering the end of the dock connector cable, gently lift it up using a plastic opening tool.

– Carefully slide the edge of your plastic opening tool under the dock connector cable’s plug and lift it out of its socket on the logic board.

– Peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the back panel.

– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket to lift it up.

– Gently peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the back case.

– Gently pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out from their sockets on the logic board.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully slide it under the retainer. Give it a little flip to release the upper component board cable connector from its spot on the logic board.

– Gently pull the connector away from the logic board’s socket. You’re almost there!

– Unscrew the three 2 mm Phillips screws holding the SIM card slot in place on the back panel. Easy, right? Just a little twist and you’re on your way!

– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack snugly against the top edge of the rear panel.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently coax the headphone jack out from its snug spot at the top of the rear panel.

– Carefully peel the headphone jack and SIM slot assembly away from the top edge of the communications board—easy does it!

– Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case right by the digitizer cable socket.

– Lift the logic board bracket off the rear case and set it aside.

– Take a moment to find those four tiny 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards snugly against the rear panel. Once you locate them, carefully remove each one to free those boards. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and lift it up from the sticky adhesive holding it to the back case. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift the logic board out from the back case and give it a gentle twist toward the battery, like you’re opening a secret compartment.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry both antenna connectors off their spots on the communications board.

– Gently unplug the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its spot on the logic board.

– Carefully lift the logic board out of the iPad 2.

– Gently slide the dock connector and speaker cables aside, then carefully peel the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna cable off the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear case.

– Let’s tackle those screws holding the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna snugly to the rear panel:

– Two 1.7 mm Phillips screws

– Two 2 mm Phillips screws

– Gently peel off the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2. You’re doing great!

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. It’s time to heat things up a bit!

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and warm.

– As you go, if the iOpener starts cooling off, just give it another quick thirty-second zap in the microwave to keep things toasty.

– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its two flat ends—steer clear of that hot center!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.

– Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it boiling.

– Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.

– Use some tongs to fish out the warm iOpener from the water.

– Give it a good towel dry to avoid any drips.

– And just like that, your iOpener is all warmed up and ready to go! If you need to heat it up again, just repeat these steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener sit in there for 2-3 minutes.

– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop that SIM card tray out like a pro!

– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its slot and remove it from your iPad 2.

– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of the tray and slide in the new one.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards from going everywhere and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is snugly wrapped.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep splitting as you work, so be ready to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.

– Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it’s spread out evenly. You want a solid contact between the iPad surface and the iOpener for maximum effect.

– Now, let the iOpener work its magic! Give it about 90 seconds to heat up the area before you try to open up the front panel.

– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your golden ticket.

– Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just a peek, enough to gently pry it open a bit.

– Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

– With the plastic opening tool in place, gently slide a plastic pick into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Keep the tip of the tool wedged in there while you work the pick in alongside it.

– Gently slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then use the opening pick to sneak it under the front glass. Aim for a depth of about half an inch. Take your time, no rush!

– As you start working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to give it another heat boost, then place it along the bottom edge of your iPad.

– While the bottom edge warms up with the iOpener, start gently loosening the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.

– Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling back the adhesive as you go.

– If the opening pick is feeling a bit clingy in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that sticky stuff. You’ve got this!

– Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will keep the adhesive from getting sticky again!

– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, and then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re almost there!

– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! The next few steps are a bit tricky, so let’s keep our wits about us.

– You’ll need to gently release the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, but be super careful not to mess with the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stay focused and follow the upcoming steps closely!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.

– Alright, now that you’ve cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s roughly 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, right by the home button), it’s time to re-insert that opening pick all the way in.

– Gently slide the pick to the right, and watch as it releases the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.

– Remember, the antenna is held down at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial because it detaches the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, your antenna stays safe and sound!

– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to clear the home button. Once you’re past that button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) and keep on going like a pro!

– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!

– And don’t forget to leave that opening pick snugly under the front glass by the home button. It’s your trusty sidekick!

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up and then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and cozy.

– Start by sliding the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, gently pulling it to work around the front-facing camera bracket.

– The adhesive here is pretty thick, so you’ll need to use a bit of muscle. Just take it slow and steady—don’t rush, and keep an eye on the pick to avoid any mishaps.

– If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it as shown in step 9 to get it moving again.

– Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and smoothly slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to peel away the adhesive. Be careful here – the adhesive is thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire side. Keep the pick shallow (no more than 10 mm or 1/2 inch deep) to avoid damaging the digitizer. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.

– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, use your fingers to hold it in place—you’re on your way!

– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving your iPad a little dance!

– When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to pamper that LCD! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.

– Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD onto the rear case. Keep them safe!

– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge near the volume buttons and swivel it out of the rear case.

– Carefully lay the LCD on the front panel, just like you see in the second image.

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and carefully flip them up.

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.

– Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.

– Gently ease that digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board. It’s like pulling out a tricky but manageable plug—no force needed, just a steady hand.

– Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge that’s farthest from the digitizer cable, then gently flip it back toward the rear case—think of it like closing a book.

– Keep holding the LCD up as you slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out so you don’t catch the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

– Once free, place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe while you work.

– Gently lift the LCD from the edge near the volume buttons, like you’re flipping a page of your favorite book—slow and steady.

– Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft surface. A cloth underneath will keep it scratch-free, ready for the next step.

– Gently place the LCD panel beside the back cover.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully flip the display data cable lock up.

– Slide the display data cable right out from its connector.

– Gently pop that LCD assembly off the rear panel assembly and set it aside carefully. It’s like peeling a sticker—smooth and steady.

– If there’s a piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry it off.

– Next, take that same tool and carefully lift the dock connector cable’s connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board.

– Now, it’s time to peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel like a pro!

– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board, like you’re carefully popping off a tiny lid.

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable’s ZIF socket to flip it up.

– Carefully peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the rear case.

– Gently wiggle the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge up the little retainer that’s holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in its place on the logic board.

– Now, give that connector a gentle tug and watch it slide away from its cozy socket on the logic board.

– Unscrew the three 2 mm Phillips screws holding the SIM card slot in place on the back panel.

– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack in place at the top edge of the rear panel. Keep these screws safe—they’re small but mighty!

– Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently wiggle it to coax the headphone jack out of its snug spot in the top of the rear panel.

– Carefully peel back the headphone jack/SIM slot assembly from the top edge of the communications board, like unwrapping a present!

– Start by unscrewing those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snug against the rear case, right next to the digitizer cable socket. You’ve got this!

– Once those screws are out, gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. Easy peasy!

– Carefully unscrew the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and lift it up gently to break free from the adhesive holding it to the back case.

– Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and tilt it slightly toward the battery.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently disconnect both antenna connectors from their sockets on the communications board. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Gently unplug the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its spot on the logic board to keep things cool and disconnected.

– Carefully lift out the iPad 2’s logic board to get things moving.

– Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a minute to get it nice and toasty.

– Once it’s warm, place the iOpener on the back of your iPad, just to the right of center (the side opposite the rear-facing camera). Let it chill there for 90 seconds to help loosen up that stubborn battery adhesive.

– Next, shift the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and give it another 90 seconds to work its magic.

– Finally, move the iOpener to the left edge (the side with the rear-facing camera) of the back of your iPad and let it sit for another 90 seconds. You’re doing great!

– Let’s kick things off with the battery cell that’s nearest to the dock connector! Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it under the edge of the battery that’s closest to the logic board void. We just need to create a little wiggle room for the flat end of our spudger to fit in.

– Now, take that spudger and glide it along the two long sides of each battery cell. We want to completely detach them from the adhesive that’s holding them snugly against the rear case. You’re doing great!

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the battery connector board to gently lift it away from the rear panel before you start prying up the middle battery cell.

– Now, grab your spudger and carefully work your way around the long sides of the middle battery cell to loosen the adhesive. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Repeat the same steps for the last battery cell, and if the case is being stubborn, give it a quick reheat to make everything cooperate.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps backward and check out our iPad 2 GSM Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel right where it belongs. If it gets tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair with us!