Author: Ralph Harris

– Got a cracked screen? Let’s keep those shards in check and your fingers safe by covering the glass with tape.

– Lay strips of clear packing tape across the entire display, overlapping them until the whole surface is sealed in.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Heads up: broken glass tends to keep cracking while you work, so you might need a metal prying tool to scoop out stubborn pieces.

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the right side of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

– Gently twist the spudger away from you to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display. It’s all part of the dance!

– Slide a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep those sneaky tabs from snapping back into their cozy little spots.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel, like peeling a banana—just be careful not to go too wild!

– Keep gently working your way around the display assembly, carefully separating it from the rear panel along the bottom and left edges of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel by its bottom edge—like you’re opening a pizza box to reveal the good stuff inside!

– Take the flat end of a spudger and gently lift the antenna connector that’s closest to the bottom of the iPad off its socket on the communications board. Nice and steady, you got this!

– Alright, it’s time to disconnect the three cables that are holding the display assembly to the logic board. These cables are linked to the following components:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Gently use the edge of an iPod opening tool to lift up the little flaps that keep the digitizer ribbon cables locked into their spots on the logic board.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out from their sockets.

– Grab your iPod opening tool and carefully pry upward to pop the ambient light sensor connector free from its socket. Easy does it!

– Gently lift the metal retainer by its black plastic tab to free the display data cable from the main board.

– Carefully slide the cable connector out of its socket.

– Gently lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly, like you’re unveiling a hidden treasure.

– Take the edge of your trusty iPod opening tool and gently lift the SIM board connector out of its cozy socket on the logic board. Easy does it!

– Grab a paperclip and gently poke it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray to pop it out of your iPad.

– Carefully pop out the SIM card and its tray from your iPad, like a tiny treasure waiting to be discovered.

– Gently use an iPod opening tool to pop the SIM board free from the sticky adhesive holding it to the back case.

– Now that you’ve powered through the repair, just retrace your steps to put everything back together. If things don’t look quite right or you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Cracked display glass? No worries—let’s keep those shards in check and protect your hands by taping over the glass.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape so the entire front is sealed up.

– Stick with the guide as best you can. Heads up: Once the glass is cracked, it’ll probably keep cracking as you go. If needed, grab a metal prying tool to help lift out those stubborn bits.

– Slide a metal spudger between the right side of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. You’re doing great!

– Gently twist the spudger away from yourself to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display. Keep it up!

– Slide a second metal spudger into the gap between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to prevent those sneaky tabs from snapping back into their cozy home.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel like you’re opening a book full of secrets.

– Keep gently prying the display assembly away from the rear panel, starting from the bottom and working your way up the left edges of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Gently tug the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly, starting at the bottom edge. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up that antenna connector closest to the bottom of your iPad—right off its socket on the communications board. Easy does it!

– Next up, you’re going to unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables handle the following parts:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently lift those retaining flaps that keep the digitizer ribbon cables snug in their cozy little sockets on the logic board.

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and carefully lift the ambient light sensor connector straight up to pop it out of its socket.

– Gently flip up that shiny metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab—like opening a tiny treasure chest!

– Slide the display data cable connector out of its socket with a smooth move.

– Gently lift the display assembly away from the rear panel—like peeling apart two best friends. Take your time and keep those connectors safe!

– To put your device back together, simply follow these steps in reverse. Easy peasy! And if you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep it from shattering further and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up snugly.

– Follow the rest of the steps as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass pieces out.

– Slide a metal spudger right between the display assembly’s edge and the rear panel assembly. You’re doing great!

– Now, give that spudger a little twist away from you to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display. Keep it up!

– Slide a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel to keep those tabs from snapping back like a surprise party.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel—think of it as coaxing a shy friend out of hiding.

– Keep gently working your way along the bottom and left sides of the iPad, prying the display assembly away from the rear panel. Take it slow and steady—your iPad appreciates the gentle touch!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel by its bottom edge, like you’re peeling a banana. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it under the antenna connector that’s hanging out near the bottom of your iPad. Give it a little nudge to lift it up and away from its cozy spot on the communications board. You’re doing great!

– Alright, let’s get to it! In the upcoming steps, we’re going to carefully unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These little guys are responsible for some important features like:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to gently lift the retaining flaps that keep the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board. It’s like popping open a little secret compartment, but with precision.

– Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. A steady hand here will make all the difference—no need for force, just a smooth, controlled move.

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently pop the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket. A little upward pry and you’re good to go!

– Gently flip up the metal latch using the black plastic pull tab to unlock the display data cable from the main board.

– Carefully slide the cable connector out of its socket.

– Carefully detach the display assembly from the back panel assembly.

– Gently use the edge of your iPod opening tool to pop up the last antenna connector from the communications board. Take it slow—no need to rush. You’ve got this!

– Guide that control button cable along the top edge of the communications board—like you’re laying down a groovy track.

– Gently lift the communications cable straight up to pop its connector out of the logic board socket. Smooth moves!

– Unscrew the lone T5 Torx screw that’s holding the communications board snugly against the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the communications board out of its socket on the logic board, like you’re unplugging a tiny secret agent.

– Gently lift the rubber EMI shield off the GPS antenna socket, like you’re peeling a banana—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and use the edge to nudge up the GPS ribbon cable retaining flap that’s holding the GPS cable to the logic board. It’s like giving it a little high-five!

– Gently wiggle and slide the GPS antenna ribbon cable out of its socket. Take it slow, and it should pop right out!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently flip up the little retaining flap on the headphone jack/mic socket—think of it as opening a tiny gate for your cable.

– Now, slide that headphone jack/microphone ribbon cable out of its socket with care. Easy does it!

– Gently use an iPod opening tool to lift the SIM board connector off the logic board socket. Take it slow and steady, you’ve got this!

– Gently fold the SIM cable down toward the bottom of the iPad to reveal the speaker connector.

– Carefully use the edge of an iPod opening tool to lift the speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

– Ready for some unscrewing action? Let’s free the logic board from the rear panel by removing these screws:

– Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws—grab your trusty driver!

– Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws—don’t mix them up, they’re a bit shorter!

– Gently slide the edge of an iPod opening tool under the dock cable connector and lift it straight up off the logic board with care.

– Gently wiggle and lift the logic board out from the cozy confines of the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

– Cracked display glass? No worries! Let’s keep those shards in place and protect your hands by taping up the glass.

– Cover the entire front of your iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape—think of it like a safety shield.

– Follow the guide as best as you can, but heads up: Once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking as you work. If you need to, gently scoop out loose pieces with a metal prying tool.

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the right side of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

– Gently pivot the spudger away from you to pop open the tabs at the top edge of the display.

– Slide a second metal spudger gently between the top of the display and the back panel to keep those pesky tabs from snapping back.

– Carefully wiggle the display assembly away from the rear panel, giving it a little nudge to free it up.

– Keep on prying that display assembly away from the rear panel, starting at the bottom and working your way up along the left edges of the iPad. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel, starting at the bottom edge. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the antenna connector near the bottom of the iPad off its socket on the communications board.

– Alright, let’s get to work! In the next few steps, we’ll be detaching three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables are responsible for some key features, including:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab an iPod opening tool and use the edge to gently lift up the retaining flaps that are keeping the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board.

– Now, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge the ambient light sensor connector upwards to ease it out of its socket. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift up the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab to free the display data cable from the main board. You’re doing great!

– Now, simply pull the cable connector away from its socket. Easy peasy!

– Gently separate the display assembly from the rear panel—like peeling the lid off a fresh jar, but with a lot more tech involved!

– No need to fully peel off that foam tape on the antenna. Just give it a little love and leave it be!

– Gently wedge the edge of an iPod opening tool under the ambient light sensor board to loosen it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the display frame.

– Once you have enough wiggle room, carefully lift the ambient light sensor away from the LCD.

– Keep your grip on the digitizer cable, then gently peel back that sneaky piece of tape holding the cable to the display frame. Slow and steady wins the race!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and give that antenna a gentle nudge! Carefully peel it away from the adhesive that’s holding it snugly to the top edge of the display. You’ve got this!

– Unscrew the three T5 Torx screws holding down the clips and LCD brackets wrapped in EMI tape near the home button switch.

– Gently lift the display clip and its taped attachment away from the black plastic frame of the display—take it slow to avoid any surprises.

– If you’re swapping out the LCD, make sure to move these EMI tape pieces and their clips over to the new screen to keep everything snug and secure.

– Take out the last T5 Torx screws holding the LCD onto the black plastic display frame. Almost there!

– Peel off that little strip of tape holding the antenna lead to the LCD. You’ve got this!

– Slide the edge of an iPod opening tool under one of the little tabs attached to the steel LCD frame.

– Gently twist the tool to lift the LCD away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the front glass panel.

– Now, repeat the process from the previous step to carefully lift the display around the three sides opposite the digitizer cable side. Take it slow and steady, making sure you’ve got a good grip before lifting.

– Gently lift the LCD from its free end and take it out of the display frame.

– Slowly peel off the adhesive holding the long side of the LCD to the display frame, then remove the LCD completely.

– If the EMI tape strip is still hanging out near the ambient light sensor socket on the front panel, go ahead and gently peel it off.

– Thinking about a fresh start with a new LCD? Make sure you give that EMI tape a new home on it.

– If your trusty LCD is sticking around and the tape is already attached, skip this part and keep cruising. If you’re swapping in a new LCD, just transfer the tape over and you’re good to go!

– If those clips and EMI tape at the bottom of the LCD are still looking sharp, go ahead and move them over to your shiny new LCD. Treat them gently—they’re already pros at this job!

– If your display glass is cracked, prevent further damage and keep things safe by taping it up. This will help avoid any accidents during your repair.

– Cover the entire face of the iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape. Make sure it’s all protected!

– Follow the guide as best as you can. Just keep in mind that once the glass is cracked, it may keep breaking as you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the broken pieces. If that gets tricky, feel free to schedule a repair.

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the right side of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. You’re doing great!

– Gently twist the spudger away from you to pop the tabs loose along the top edge of the display. Keep it up!

– Slide a second metal spudger in between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel to keep those sneaky tabs from snapping back.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel like you’re unveiling a secret.

– Keep on gently working your way around the bottom and left sides of the iPad, lifting the display away from the rear panel like you’re opening a stubborn book cover.

– Carefully lift the display assembly from the rear panel, starting at the bottom edge. Take your time, it’s a little delicate, but you’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the antenna connector nearest to the bottom of the iPad off its socket on the communications board. You’ve got this!

– Next up, we’re going to unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables keep your screen’s parts chatting away, so let’s gently disconnect:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently flip up those tiny retaining flaps that are keeping the digitizer ribbon cables locked in place on the logic board. It’s like giving them a little freedom!

– Now, with a steady hand, pull those digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Nice and easy—no tug-of-war needed.

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge the ambient light sensor connector upwards to pop it out of its socket. Easy peasy!

– Gently pop up the metal latch using the black plastic tab—it’s like giving your cable connector a little hat flip.

– Slide the cable connector out of its socket with care, like you’re unplugging it from a cozy spot.

– Gently lift the display assembly off the rear panel—think of it like peeling a sticker, but way more high-tech.

– Unscrew the two T5 Torx screws that are holding the home button switch board to the display frame. Once they’re free, you’re one step closer to getting everything back in action!

– Now it’s time to put everything back together! Just follow those steps backwards, and your device will be back in action. If you hit a snag or want a pro to handle it, you can always schedule a repair.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and stay safe by taping over the glass before you start working.

– Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up.

– Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you go, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.

– Take your metal spudger and slide it gently between the right side of the display and the rear panel—like you’re sneaking a cookie from the jar.

– Now, give the spudger a little twist away from yourself to pop those top-edge tabs loose. Easy does it!

– Slide a second metal spudger into the gap between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. This will help prevent those sneaky tabs from bouncing back into their cozy spots.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel. You’re doing great!

– Keep gently working that display assembly loose from the rear panel, focusing on the bottom and left edges of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Gently pull the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the antenna connector that’s hanging out near the bottom of your iPad, lifting it off the communications board. Easy does it!

– Next up, we’re going to unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables handle:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently flip up those tiny retaining flaps—these are holding the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board. It’s like opening tiny doors!

– Now, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Keep it smooth and steady, and you’ll have them out in no time.

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and give that ambient light sensor connector a gentle nudge upwards to free it from its cozy little socket. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab to loosen the display data cable from the main board.

– Slide the cable connector out of its socket like you’re unplugging a tiny, high-tech handshake.

– Carefully lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly to separate the two parts.

– Gently use the edge of an iPod opening tool or your trusty fingernail to lift up the ZIF cable retaining flap on the headphone jack socket. You’re doing great!

– Gently wiggle and pull the headphone jack cable free from its spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Pop out your T5 Torx screwdriver and unscrew the two 2.8 mm screws holding the headphone jack to the rear case. Let’s keep it smooth and easy!

– Gently pop the headphone jack out from the rear case.

– When putting the screws back in, double-check that the headphone jack is snugly tucked into its spot in the headphone jack hole at the top edge of the rear case.

– If your display glass has decided to crack, let’s keep it from shattering any further and protect your hands while you’re at it—grab some tape and cover that glass up.

– Layer on some clear packing tape over the iPad’s display, making sure to overlap the strips until the entire face is nicely wrapped.

– Now, dive into the rest of the guide! Just a heads up—once the glass starts to break, it might get a little wild and crack more as you work. You might want to have a metal prying tool handy to carefully scoop out those pesky glass shards.

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the right side of the display assembly and the back panel.

– Gently twist the spudger away from you to pop loose the tabs along the top edge of the display.

– Slide a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel to keep those pesky tabs from snapping back in.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel, like you’re coaxing it to say hello.

– Keep gently working your way around the bottom and left edges of your iPad, prying the display assembly away from the rear panel. Nice and easy does it!

– Gently peel the display assembly up from the rear panel, starting at the bottom edge.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the antenna connector near the bottom of the iPad and lift it up off its socket on the communications board.

– Next up, we’re going to unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables handle the following parts:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab the edge of your iPod opening tool and gently lift the retaining flaps that are keeping the digitizer ribbon cables snug in their sockets on the logic board.

– Once those flaps are out of the way, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Nice and easy!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket by prying it upward with a little finesse.

– Time to liberate that display data cable! Gently flip up the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab, like a pro.

– Next, just slide that cable connector out of its socket with a little finesse.

– Carefully lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly to separate the two.

– No need to yank off all the foam tape stuck to the antenna—just leave it be!

– Gently slide the edge of an iPod opening tool under the ambient light sensor board to loosen it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the display frame.

– When you’ve created enough wiggle room, carefully peel the ambient light sensor away from the LCD.

– With a gentle touch, keep that digitizer cable in place and slowly peel away the tape that’s keeping it snugly attached to the display frame. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently work the edge underneath the antenna. Give it a little lift to peel it away from the adhesive holding it on the top edge of the display. Nice and easy, you’ve got this!

– Start by unscrewing the three T5 Torx screws that are holding the clips and LCD brackets in place. You’ll find them covered in some handy EMI tape, right around the home button area.

– Gently peel back the display clip along with its attached tape from the black plastic display frame. Take your time—no need to rush!

– If you’re swapping out the LCD, make sure to move over the EMI tape and clips to your new screen. They’ll be essential for keeping everything secure and working properly.

– Take out the last T5 Torx screws holding the LCD onto that sleek black plastic display frame. Almost there!

– Gently peel off the tiny tape strip that’s keeping the antenna lead stuck to the LCD.

– Slide the edge of an iPod opening tool underneath one of the little tabs attached to the steel LCD frame.

– Give the tool a gentle twist to carefully lift the LCD away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the front glass panel.

– Do the same prying magic you did in the last step, working your way around the three sides of the display that don’t have the digitizer cable. Be gentle—think of it like opening a treasure chest, not a can of soda!

– Gently lift the LCD from its free end and take it out of the display frame.

– Slowly peel away the adhesive holding the long side of the LCD to the display frame, then remove the LCD completely.

– If it’s still clinging to the front panel, carefully peel off the strip of EMI tape near the ambient light sensor socket.

– If needed, move this strip over to your new LCD.

– If the tape is attached to your LCD and you’re reusing the same one, you can skip this step. But if you’re swapping out the LCD, make sure to transfer that strip of EMI tape to the new screen.

– If those clips and EMI tape at the bottom of the LCD are still looking sharp, go ahead and move them over to your new screen—no need to leave good parts behind!

– Unscrew the two T5 Torx screws holding down the home button switch to the plastic display frame. A little twist and they’re out!

– Lift out the home button switch board from the front panel assembly—go ahead, give it a gentle wiggle if needed.

– If you’re planning to reuse your LCD, gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under a corner of the foam tape stuck to the LCD to lift it up.

– Peel off the tape running around the edge of the glass on the LCD.

– Press the tape firmly onto the frame of the front panel assembly along the long edge of the LCD.

– Gently lower the LCD into its spot in the new front panel frame, making sure it sits just right.

– Carefully peel back the strips of EMI tape along the bottom edge of the LCD while you remove the two T5 Torx screws holding the retaining clips in place.

– Press the tape down onto the new clips and screw the two T5 Torx screws back in to secure everything.

– Time to put things back together! Just follow these steps backwards, and you’ll have your device looking sharp again. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.