Author: Ralph Harris

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the left edge of your iPad for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic and loosen things up.

– While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these sneaky spots where prying can cause trouble:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set your iPad on something flat so it stays balanced between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one up top and one down low.

– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to get a good seal.

– Give the blue handle a little forward pull to lock those arms into place.

– Turn that handle 360 degrees clockwise (or until you see those cups stretch).

– Keep an eye on those suction cups—they should stay in sync. If they start to drift out of alignment, just loosen them a bit and nudge the arms back into line.

– Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive chill and create a little gap for you to work with.

– If your screen feels more like a popsicle than warm, grab a hair dryer and gently heat along the left edge of the iPad to loosen things up.

– Once the Anti-Clamp makes some room, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to start the separation.

– You can skip the next step, no worries!

– Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and place it as close to the left edge as you can. Get in there nice and snug!

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle, just enough to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame—take your time, we’re not in a race here.

– Slide a second pick into the gap you just made. Easy, right?

– Gently glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of your iPad, separating that adhesive like a pro.

– Leave the pick in place at the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just ‘roll’ it along the edge of your iPad to keep working through the sticky stuff. It’ll get smoother!

– Slide the opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive. Nice and steady!

– Leave the pick in the corner to keep the adhesive from sealing back up. You’ve got this!

– Warm up your iOpener and place it gently on the top edge of your iPad. Let it sit there for about two minutes to work its magic.

– Gently spin the pick around the top-left corner of your iPad to break through the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, just before you hit the front camera. Take it slow—precision is key!

– Gently pull the pick out so only its tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Rest the pick just to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the top-right corner to fully cut through the top adhesive.

– Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick towards the corner to break the adhesive seal. Nice and easy, don’t rush it.

– Keep the pick in place in the corner before moving on to the next step. Patience is key!

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Carefully glide the pick past the antenna, stopping right before you hit the home button.

– Let the pick hang out just to the left of the home button before moving on.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve created.

– Carefully work the pick underneath the home button, gliding it toward the bottom-right corner. Make sure only the tip of the pick sits between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the home button to fully release the bottom adhesive.

– Set the pick just to the right of the home button and hold tight before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nicely loosened up.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, breaking through the last stubborn spots of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel off more of the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.

– Gently hold the digitizer in place and slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to loosen the final bits of adhesive. Keep it steady, you’ve got this!

– After loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to your iPad.

– When putting everything back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer (if you’re reusing it) using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Keep a close eye on the display cables during reassembly—fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 4.2 mm screws holding that LCD in place. Nice and easy.

– As you go through the steps, be sure to keep track of those screws. They’re small, but they’re important! Put them back where they came from to keep everything running smoothly.

– Before you dive in, make sure to peel off any tape that might be hiding those screws. You don’t want anything blocking your path.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Flip the iPad’s LCD over like turning a page, holding near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access the display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove that tiny 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector snugly to the logic board. Easy does it!

– Gently slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector, aiming for a smooth 35-degree angle.

– Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue your work. It’s got your back!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove those three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Take off the display cable bracket, it’s time to unveil the magic underneath!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.

– When reconnecting press connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—if it’s off-center, the pins might bend and cause serious damage.

– Carefully lift the LCD off completely and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel off the tape that’s covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

– Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and steady, you got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors and pop them loose with care.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the buffer block from the bottom-right corner of your iPad. It’s like giving it a little nudge to get things moving.

– Now, carefully take out the buffer block. You’re one step closer!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the frame. Take it slow, and be careful not to pull too hard!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, no worries! Just slap on a thin strip of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the marked spots on the back of the panel to fix it. Replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so this step is usually not needed.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those sticky spots with some strong isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This gets the surface ready for fresh glue and guarantees a solid bond.

– Give your iPad a quick test to make sure everything’s working, then stick on the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

– Gently use your fingers to lift the home button cable off the back of the front panel. Take it easy, you got this!

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the home button cable to loosen it from the front panel.

– Smoothly push it forward to slice through the adhesive holding the home button cable in place.

– Keep sliding the pick along until you arrive at the home button bracket.

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the top of the home button cable to gently detach the metal contact from the home button bracket. Take your time, this part is all about precision!

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the home button bracket for about thirty seconds to loosen things up.

– Take off that home button bracket carefully.

– When putting it back, grab some strong glue like E6000 to keep it stuck tight to the front panel assembly.

– Gently press on the home button from the front of the panel to break the adhesive seal holding it in place. You got this!

– Ready to put everything back together? Just follow the steps in reverse, and you’ll be all set.

– Got some e-waste? Don’t forget to take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to do your part for the planet!

– Did things not go as expected? No worries, try out some simple troubleshooting tips or, if you’re still stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for expert help.

– Warm up that iOpener and place it on the left side of your iPad. Let it do its magic for about two minutes.

– While the adhesive is softening up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like to be pried:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Pull back the blue handle to unlock the Anti-Clamp arms—this is your cue to get started!

– Place something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups—think of it like giving it a comfy bed.

– Position the suction cups on the left edge of the device, one near the top and one near the bottom. Keep them about halfway across for a balanced hold.

– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create a good suction. You got this!

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a gap you can work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try warming the left edge of the iPad gently with a hair dryer.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Skip this step and keep going.

– Once the screen is slightly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge, right as close to the border as you can.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame—just enough to wiggle a tool in.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and frame and carefully work your way around.

– Slide your second opening pick into the gap you just created—smooth and easy does it.

– Gently glide the pick down towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive’s hold.

– Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to stop that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just gently roll it along the side of the iPad to keep the adhesive separation going. Keep a steady hand and you’ll breeze through it.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick in the corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the top edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, making sure to stop just before reaching the front camera. Take it slow, no rush here!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.

– Rest the pick near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Grab the pick again and gently slide it up to the top-right corner of the iPad. This should completely separate the top adhesive.

– Leave the pick in place at the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t re-stick.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Swing that pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen up the sticky adhesive holding things tight.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slide it to the right edge of the iPad, aiming for the middle. Take your time and get it in there just right!

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes. This will help loosen things up a bit and make your repair smoother!

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner, just enough to break that adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Leave the pick in place right there, and get ready for the next step—you’re almost there!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Carefully glide the pick across the antenna, stopping just before you hit the home button.

– Leave the pick to the left of the home button and move on to the next step.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve just made. Take your time, it’s all about precision!

– Now, carefully slide the pick under the home button and toward the bottom-right corner. Just make sure you’re only sneaking the tip between the digitizer and the frame—no need to go too deep!

– Gently re-insert the pick and glide it toward the home button to completely break free the bottom adhesive.

– Leave the pick just to the right of the home button, and take a moment before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the iPad’s left corners to lift the digitizer just enough to break the last of the adhesive’s grip. It’s a bit like getting the last cookie out of the jar—just a little nudge and you’re there!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to give the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad a little extra nudge to separate. A little patience goes a long way!

– Carefully support the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to peel apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.

– After carefully loosening all the adhesive, open up the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting things back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, freshen things up by applying new adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly. Fold them neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on each screw during the repair—putting them back exactly where they came from will keep your iPad happy and safe.

– Peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get a good grip on them.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wedge the flat end underneath the LCD. Just lift it a little—enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, treat the iPad LCD like a book and carefully flip it open. Start at the camera end and fold it over towards the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft surface that’s free of lint. This gives you all the space you need to work on the display cables.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the tiny 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Take your time—don’t rush it!

– Carefully slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. Take your time; precision is key.

– Leave the battery blocker where it is while you continue working. It’s doing its job, so don’t worry about it.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.

– Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving along smoothly.

– Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Easy does it!

– To reattach connectors like this, carefully line it up and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying ‘click.’ Then do the same on the other side. Don’t press in the middle—if the connector gets misaligned, it could bend the pins, and we don’t want that kind of drama. Take it slow and steady!

– Carefully peel off the LCD and gently lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel back the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—steady hands win the day!

– Take the flat side of your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors. Keep it steady, no rush—just a smooth move!

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the buffer block located near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

– Lift and remove the buffer block carefully.

– Gently grab your tweezers and carefully peel the home button cable off the frame. Take your time, no rush here!

– Start by carefully removing the front panel assembly. Take your time, no rush!

– If you’re seeing some ‘phantom’ touch issues after installing your new display, here’s a quick fix: Add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the areas highlighted on the back of the panel. Don’t worry, most new displays come with the right insulation, so this step is usually only needed for some tricky cases.

– Before putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab a cloth and some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and wipe down the glued areas. This will prep the surface for fresh adhesive and ensure it sticks perfectly!

– Finally, give your iPad a quick functionality test and add the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy guide. Once everything’s in place, seal it up and you’re good to go!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the upper component bracket. Keep them safe!

– Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and carefully lift that upper component bracket right off the frame.

– Carefully peel away any tape that’s covering the left ambient light sensor’s ZIF connector.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up that little hinged locking flap on the left ambient light sensor’s ZIF connector. It’s a small move, but it’ll make a big difference!

– Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the left ambient light sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector—no sudden moves, we want it smooth and easy!

– Gently grab the sensor with tweezers or your fingers and carefully lift it away from the frame.

– Grab those tweezers and gently pick away any leftover adhesive on the frame. You got this!

– Gently lift any tape hiding the headphone jack connector—think of it like peeling back a sticker, but for tech!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift and unplug the headphone jack’s press connector.

– Gently lift the headphone jack cable off the frame using tweezers or your fingers—easy does it!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and twist out the 3.3 mm-long screw holding the headphone jack in place on the frame. Easy does it!

– To put your device back together, simply follow these steps in reverse order. It’s like a puzzle, but with less stress!

– Got e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let’s keep things eco-friendly!

– Did things not go as planned? No worries, give some basic troubleshooting a shot or reach out to our community for some helpful tips and tricks!

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– Warm up an iOpener and let it work its magic on the left edge of your iPad for two minutes.

– As the adhesive starts to let go, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being pried:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Pull the blue handle back to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms and get them ready for action.

– Place something underneath your iPad to keep it level and stable between the suction cups.

– Set the suction cups along the left edge—one on the top, the other on the bottom—just like placing the perfect toppings on a pizza.

– Grip the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, and with a firm press, apply some suction to the top cup to get everything locked in place.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to slip out of position, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Take a breather for a minute to let the adhesive do its thing and create a little gap for you.

– Not feeling enough heat? No worries! A hair dryer can help warm up that left edge of your iPad.

– When the Anti-Clamp has made a nice enough gap, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip ahead to the next step!

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Gently pull up on the screen using the suction handle to make a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to keep things moving.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep things moving and separate that sticky stuff.

– Gently slide your opening pick into the top-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal.

– Leave the pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the top edge of your iPad for two minutes. This will help loosen things up before you get into the real fun.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but stop just shy of the front camera. Keep it steady and take it slow!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the top of the front camera to loosen the adhesive.

– Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner of your iPad to fully break through that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.

– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it onto the right edge of your iPad for about two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic—patience is key!

– Gently work the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad, making sure to loosen the adhesive without rushing.

– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it right into the middle of your iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently place it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick tucked in the corner while you get ready for the next step.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it into the gap you made along the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but stop right before reaching the home button.

– Leave the pick to the left of the home button and continue on with the next steps.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve just made—nice and easy!

– Now, gently glide the pick under the home button, angling towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip is snugly between the digitizer and the frame.

– Take the pick and gently slide it toward the home button to separate that stubborn bottom adhesive completely.

– Once you’ve done that, leave the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Warm up that iOpener and stick it on the right side of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up just a bit, loosening the last stubborn bits of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to loosen up the sticky stuff along the right edge of your iPad.

– Keep the digitizer steady while you gently slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to free up the last bit of adhesive holding them together.

– After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Keep an eye on those display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any damage and keep your iPad happy.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those four 4.2 mm-long screws holding the LCD in place. Easy peasy!

– As you go through the steps, keep an eye on each screw—make sure to put it back exactly where it belongs so your iPad stays in top shape.

– Peel off any tape covering the LCD screws—it’s like unwrapping a gift, but for your iPad!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the LCD out of its spot just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Flip the iPad LCD over like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and rotating it over the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to get easy access to the display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working—it’s your new best friend for this step.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.

– Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving smoothly.

– Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. No need to rush, take it slow!

– To reconnect press connectors like this, line it up carefully and press down on one side until you hear a satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle. If it’s misaligned, the pins could bend and that’s a headache you don’t want. Take your time and you’ll be good to go!

– Carefully detach the LCD and lay it down gently, screen side facing the surface, on a clean, soft, lint-free area. Let’s keep it safe and sound!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel back the tape that’s covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Take your time—this part is a little delicate, but you’ve got this!

– Gently pry up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector using a spudger, opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. It doesn’t take much force—just a little finesse.

– Grab some tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and steady!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the two digitizer cable press connectors.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pop up the buffer block hanging out near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

– Lift that buffer block away like a pro.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable off the frame. Take your time, no rush!

– Time to get that front panel off! Start by carefully removing the front panel assembly.

– If you notice any odd ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch issues with your shiny new display, no worries! Just add a thin layer of insulating tape—Kapton (polyimide) tape works great—on the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Most replacement digitizers come pre-insulated, so you likely won’t need any extra tape.

– Before putting everything back together, don’t forget to clean up! Wipe off any leftover adhesive on your device, and use high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or better) with a lint-free cloth to clean those areas where the display will attach. This makes sure the new adhesive sticks like a charm.

– Test your device’s functions one last time, then apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using the display adhesive application guide before sealing everything up. Smooth and secure—that’s the goal!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws holding down the upper component bracket. A gentle twist will do the trick.

– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to carefully lift that upper component bracket right off the frame.

– Gently lift any tape that’s hiding the headphone jack’s press connector.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack’s press connector and give it a little pry to disconnect it.

– Gently lift the headphone jack cable off the frame using tweezers or just your fingers—easy does it!

– Gently lift off any tape hiding the front camera’s ZIF connector like a pro detective uncovering a clue.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the front camera’s ZIF connector. Nice and easy!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the front camera cable straight out of the ZIF connector. No rush—just take your time and be gentle!

– Place a warm iOpener on the top of your device and let it chill there for 90 seconds.

– Slide the flat end of your spudger right between the front camera and the frame.

– Carefully wiggle it up to loosen the adhesive without causing a fuss.

– Put your device back together by retracing these steps in reverse order.

– Got some old tech? Drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep it out of the landfill.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, try a bit of troubleshooting or reach out to our iPad 9 Answers community for some friendly advice.

– And remember, if this repair feels like a tough nut to crack, you can always schedule a repair with us!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– While the adhesive is busy loosening up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that need your gentle touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Ambient light sensors

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set something under your iPad so it stays balanced between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups along the middle of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to get a good suction seal.

– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and line up the arms again.

– Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small opening gap.

– If your screen feels chilly, try warming it up by running a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Go ahead and skip the next step.

– Once the screen feels pleasantly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the border as you can manage.

– Gently pull on the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame — just enough to slip something in.

– Carefully insert an opening pick into that gap you’ve made between the digitizer and frame. Take your time, no rush here!

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just roll it along the side of the iPad to keep separating that sticky stuff like a pro.

– Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it work its magic on the top edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes.

– Gently rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal. This will make the next steps a breeze!

– Carefully slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad. Stop right before you hit the front camera. Take it slow and steady—you’re almost there!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward.

– Pop that pick back in and slide it over to the top-right corner to fully break through the stubborn adhesive holding your iPad together.

– Keep the pick wedged in there to stop the adhesive from sticking back together while you work.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right side.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick towards the corner to loosen the adhesive.

– Keep that pick in place before moving on to the next step. Patience is key!

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.

– Leave the pick resting just to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Time to get your pick in there! Gently slide it into the gap you’ve made.

– Now, carefully work that pick under the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure only the tip of the pick is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pick it up again and gently slide it toward the home button—this will help you fully separate that bottom adhesive.

– Keep the pick on the right side of the home button for now before moving forward.

– Heat up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of the iPad for about two minutes. Let it work its magic—patience is key!

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the iPad’s left corners to nudge the digitizer up just a bit, breaking through the last stubborn bit of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer and wiggle it upwards to loosen the sticky stuff along the right side of your iPad.

– Hold the digitizer steady and gently slide an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to carefully peel apart the last bit of adhesive.

– After you’ve successfully separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad—easy peasy!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, be sure to clear any leftover adhesive from the frame—and give the digitizer a little TLC with isopropyl alcohol if you’re reusing it. Then, grab our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to seal the deal.

– Keep an eye on those display cables while you’re reassembling the iPad! Make sure they’re tucked away neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. Remember, a tidy workspace is a happy workspace!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD in place. Don’t rush, they’re counting on you!

– As you work through this repair, be sure to keep track of each screw and place it back where it belongs. We want your iPad to stay as good as new, right?

– Take a moment to peel away any tape that’s covering the LCD screws. It’ll give you the clear shot you need to keep going!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently nudge the LCD out of its snug home, just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Flip the iPad LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, lifting from the camera side and carefully folding it over toward the home button end of the frame.

– Place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to give you easy access to the display cables underneath. It’s like setting it down on a cozy bed for the cables to stretch out.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the tiny 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Slide the battery blocker gently under the logic board’s battery connector at a 35-degree angle. Nice and easy.

– Once it’s in place, leave the battery blocker there while you continue with the rest of the steps. It’s got your back!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.

– Take off the display cable bracket.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.

– When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—misalignment can bend pins and cause permanent damage.

– Carefully lift the LCD off completely and set it down face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot—treat it like the precious gadget it is!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape covering that home button cable ZIF connector. Take your time—it’s a simple step, but one you don’t want to rush!

– Grab a spudger, opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail and gently lift the small, hinged flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Just give it a little nudge and you’ll be on your way!