Author: Ralph Harris

– The S9+ is packing some serious specs and a variety of aperture sizes. Here’s the scoop:

– Notchless 6.2″ AMOLED Display with a stunning resolution of 2960 × 1440 (~530 ppi)

– Qualcomm Snapdragon 845 or Samsung’s own Exynos 9810, depending on where you are in the world

– 12 MP OIS dual-aperture main camera—switch between f/1.5 and f/2.4 modes—plus a 12 MP OIS secondary camera and an 8 MP selfie cam for those perfect shots

– Headphone jack and microSD slot for all your audio and storage needs

– IP68 water and dust-proofing rating, so it can handle a little adventure

– Running on Android 8.0 Oreo for a smooth experience

– Samsung’s keeping it classy with a notch-free look and impressively slim bezels, standing out among a crowd of iPhone-inspired designs.

– Flip it over, and while the iPhone X’s camera bump grabs attention, the S9+ goes for a wider sensor layout that’s a little more chaotic in appearance.

– On display: S9+ rocking the left side, iPhone X showing off its ‘bezel-less’ notch game on the right.

– Glass backs are all the rage for wireless charging—awesome for convenience, but not so forgiving if you’re prone to drops.

– Back in the day, swapping the iPhone 4S’s glass back was a breeze in under two minutes; with these newer models, don’t expect an easy swap.

– Before getting started, let’s give a shoutout to our friends at Creative Electron for some high-energy recon to kick things off.

– Aside from a shiny new dual camera and a few minor component shuffles, everything here looks pretty much the same as the last time around. No surprises!

– While it’s not quite the S4, the S9 still offers a welcome break from some of the more recent, tricky teardowns. A little heat and a plastic opening tool go a long way, but be prepared—it’s not exactly a smooth ride! Thanks to some experience (and a bit of luck), we can safely disconnect the sensor assembly cable without drama. Remember, detailed documentation makes everything easier. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– After braving the tricky process of opening up the phone, we make our grand entrance to the back.

– Next stop: the rear camera, where we get to check out the slick new dual aperture setup.

– Most cameras use at least five blades to keep the aperture nice and round as it shifts through different f-stops. This Galaxy switches things up with just two rotating, ring-shaped blades for a quick adjustment.

– First up, the relocated fingerprint sensor. It’s held in place with a sticky ring that keeps it safe from spills—time to gently pry it free.

– Pro tip: that fingerprint sensor cable loves to hide in glue under the back cover. Watch out, or you’ll end up with a sticky situation. Maybe next time Samsung will give us a break!

– After removing fifteen screws, the midframe pops out like a seasoned pro, bringing along the wireless charging coil, antenna assembly, and lower speaker for the ride.

– To loosen a glued-down battery in a Galaxy phone, you have a couple of options. First, you can carefully apply some heat with a heat gun or a specialized tool, then gently pry the battery free using a plastic pry tool—just be ready with a fire extinguisher, a bucket of sand, and nerves of steel. Alternatively, for a gentler approach, load a syringe with some Adhesive Remover and carefully apply it around the edges to dissolve the glue. Keep in mind, Samsung often uses a sticky black webbing on top of their batteries—no clear idea why, but if you’ve got insights, shout out! If you need help with this process, you can always schedule a repair to get it done professionally.

– Let’s set the motherboard free: just remove two screws and pop off a couple FPC connectors with your trusty spudger.

– Surprise! The display cable is sneakily threaded through a narrow opening in the chassis and locked onto the motherboard, as if clinging for dear life…

– Motherboard: officially liberated.

– …But if you’ve checked out any Galaxy teardowns lately, you probably saw this move coming.

– Samsung, we get the reasoning, but surely you can give us a display that’s easier to disconnect and swap out—without prying off a glued cover. Challenge accepted?

– Even though we’ve got dual image sensors, this double camera is actually a single unit, all snug on one PCB with just one connector!

– The S9+ camera lineup is now a total of four—along with the shiny new dual main camera, we’ve got the selfie and iris cameras joining the party.

– This time around, it looks like the camera series is dubbed ‘Star’, a fun twist from last year’s ‘Dream’ cameras.

– Our pals at TechInsights took a peek inside the camera modules, and guess what? There are chips hiding in there! Samsung boasts that their integrated DRAM lets the camera handle up to four times more image data. How about some 960 FPS slow-mo action?

– The headphone jack makes a handy comeback here. Its gasket keeps your phone protected, and since it’s modular, replacing it is a straightforward, budget-friendly task if needed. Next, we grab the versatile daughterboard assembly, which includes coaxial cables, microphone, USB-C port, and plenty of spring contacts—think of it as the control center of the device. Then, we move on to the second speaker—the earpiece—which now also functions as a loudspeaker, giving you that nice stereo or even ‘surround sound’ experience that modern phones can deliver. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Lay out that motherboard and take a look! On Side A, you’ll spot all the main players:

– Samsung K3UH6H60AM-NGCJ LPDDR4X 6 GB DRAM sitting on top of the Qualcomm Snapdragon 845

– Toshiba THGAF4G9N4LBAIR 64 GB UFS (NAND flash plus controller)

– Avago AFEM-9096 front end module

– Qualcomm Aqstic™ WCD9341 audio codec

– Maxim Integrated MAX77705F PMIC

– Qualcomm QET4100 envelope tracker

– Maxim MAX98512 audio amplifier

– Side B packs a punch with all the components that didn’t make it onto Side A. Here’s what you’ll find: the Murata KM7N16048 Wi-Fi/Bluetooth module, the NXP PN80T NFC controller, the Qualcomm PM845 (probably a PMIC), the Qualcomm SDR845 RF transceiver, the Skyworks SKY78160-11 WLAN front-end module, the Qualcomm PM8005 power management IC, and the Skyworks SKY13716-1 low band front-end module. Take your time to identify and handle each part carefully—these are the key players in keeping your device connected and powered up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– IC Identification, pt. 2:

– Meet the Qualcomm QDM3870—your high-band diversity front-end module, keeping things speedy.

– The Qualcomm D5319 is here for your mid-band diversity duties.

– RDA Microelectronics RDA6213N FM transceiver—probably the one making your tunes play.

– Samsung S2MPB02—camera’s power boss.

– Samsung S2DOS05—display’s power manager.

– Samsung S2MPB03—camera power management, part two.

– Renesas (used to be IDT) P9320S—your wireless charging receiver.

– IC Identification, pt.3:

– Meet the NXP PCAL6524—your 24-bit I/O expander for all those extra signals.

– Here’s the ON Semiconductor FPF3688UCX, running the show as a load switch.

– Spot the Texas Instruments boost converter (very likely), kicking voltage up a notch.

– Another ON Semiconductor star: FAN48618BUC53X 1A boost regulator for a bit of extra power.

– Vishay DG2730: 2-port, 480 Mbps USB 2.0 DPDT analog switch—keeping your connections snappy.

– Richtek RT8010GQW 1A step-down DC-DC converter, dropping voltage like it’s hot.

– Texas Instruments TPS7A05 200mA LDO regulator, smoothing things out at the end.

– Sensor Showdown, pt. 4:

– Meet the STMicroelectronics LSM6DSL – your phone’s motion maestro, handling all things accelerometer and gyroscope.

– Say hi to the AKM Semiconductor AK09916C, the compass that keeps your directions on point.

– Next up: STMicroelectronics LPS22HB. This pressure sensor is the air whisperer, keeping tabs on altitude.

– Heart rate sensor – your phone’s personal fitness coach.

– Ablic S-5712CCDL1-I4T1U hall sensor is here for magnetic moves.

– And the Semtech SX9320 proximity sensor (probably) – keeping your screen off when your face is up close.

– Getting into the display teardown is a bit of a tug-of-war—lots of heat and patience needed. The glue can be stubborn, so instead of fighting it with a bunch of iOpeners, grab a heat gun to warm things up and make the process smoother. When replacing a broken screen, it’s a bit of a marathon, but with steady effort, you’ll get there. The display cable, made by Samsung and often labeled ‘Star’, combines both the display and digitizer in a sealed unit, so handle it carefully. You’ll also find two final chips attached to the display: the Samsung S6SY761X touch controller, which you might recognize from the S8 series, and the Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8 Mb serial NOR flash. If at any point you need a hand or want to get the job done professionally, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Time to get up close and personal with the biometrics!

– On the left, we’ve got the trusty S9+ hardware: iris scanner, front-facing camera, IR emitter, and proximity sensor (probably that AMS TMD4906). Looks like a familiar face from last year, doesn’t it?

– On the right, meet the heart of Apple’s notch: Face ID hardware. This includes a front-facing camera, IR dot projector, IR camera, plus space for the flood illuminator and rangefinder, all tucked neatly into the display.

– Some assembly required—don’t worry, it’s nothing you can’t handle.

– Early reviews are in, and it seems like Samsung might’ve gotten a little too excited about Animoji without a hardware refresh to keep up. But hey, we all get a little ahead of ourselves sometimes.

– All done! Check out the Galaxy S9+ parts you’ve just uncovered. If you hit a snag or want a pro touch, you can always schedule a repair.

– Get ready to slice through the sticky stuff holding on the back cover.

– Aim for the adhesive spots shown below:

– Where it’s thick, you’ll need a bit more muscle.

– Thin areas—easy does it.

– Steer clear of this zone so you don’t mess with the fingerprint sensor flex cable.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back cover to get things popping.

– Gently lift the bottom edge of the back cover with your suction cup, creating a tiny gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and carefully work it down to the bottom right corner.

– Grab a second pick and cruise over to the bottom left corner—slide it right in.

– Pop a third pick at the bottom of your phone and let it hang out there while you work. It’ll keep the adhesive from pulling a sneaky reseal move on you.

– Take your opening pick and slide it from the bottom left corner up along the side of your S9 Plus like you’re buttering toast.

– Pause halfway up the left side once you’ve sliced through the sticky stuff, and let your pick chill there for a bit.

– Now, repeat the move on the bottom right corner—slide your pick halfway up that side too, and leave it hanging out there.

– Place a fourth opening pick on the right side of the frame and gently slide it up toward the top right corner. Then, run a fifth opening pick along the left edge of the phone all the way to the top left corner. Use the picks to carefully cut through the remaining adhesive beneath the upper part of the rear glass. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift up the rear glass on the side where the volume buttons hang out. No need to rush—let’s treat it like a first date.

– Grab a spudger and pop up the fingerprint sensor flex cable. It’s just a little connection, nothing wild.

– Seal the deal with your new back cover using some pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape—it’s like giving your device a warm hug!

– Now, let’s put everything back together by retracing your steps—it’s like a fun little dance in reverse!

– Once the rear cover is on, give your phone a little TLC by applying firm, steady pressure for a few minutes. You can even stack some heavy books on top to help the adhesive bond like best friends!

– And just like that, you’re done! Follow this guide to test your repair and make sure everything is working smoothly. If you run into any hiccups, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!

– First things first, let’s power down your phone. Safety first, right? Now, grab your trusty iOpener and get ready to work some magic! Place it on the back of your device to loosen up that stubborn adhesive hiding beneath the rear glass. Give it a good two minutes to work its charm. If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t hesitate to repeat this step a few times to make the back cover removal a breeze!

– Now, it’s time to carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Think of it as peeling away the layers—smooth and steady wins the race.

– Follow these zones where the adhesive is lurking:

– Thick patches of glue that want to keep your device sealed tight.

– Sparser, thin spots where the adhesive is a little more forgiving.

– Keep your prying tools away from the fingerprint sensor flex cable—it’s delicate and doesn’t want to be sliced or pried in this area.

– Stick your suction cup onto the back cover—give it a good press so it grabs hold.

– Gently pull up on the bottom edge of the back cover with your suction cup until you see a tiny gap between the cover and the frame—don’t rush it!

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and cruise it over to the bottom right corner.

– Grab another opening pick and slide it down to the bottom left corner—like playing a smooth game of phone Tetris.

– Pop in a third pick at the bottom edge and leave it hanging out there. That’s your trusty sidekick preventing the adhesive from sneakily sticking itself back together while you work on removing the rear glass.

– Gently start to slide the tip of your opening pick from the bottom left corner, tracing along the side of the S9 Plus. Keep the pick in place once you’ve sliced halfway up the left edge of the phone’s adhesive. Then, glide the opening pick from the bottom right corner up to the middle of the frame and leave it there—you’re making progress! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a fourth opening pick and let it cruise along the right edge of the frame all the way up to the top right corner.

– Take a fifth pick, slide it up the left side of the phone, and park it at the top left corner.

– Work your pick under the upper section of the rear glass to slice through the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift up the side of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out—no need to rush, just a smooth move.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its edge to pop up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor flex cable. Nice and easy does it!

– Start by carefully removing the rear glass panel. Once it’s off, follow this guide to reapply the adhesive and put the rear glass back in place smoothly. If you’re thinking about replacing the rear glass entirely, this guide will also walk you through transferring the rear camera bezel along with the fingerprint sensor. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Unscrew those nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws and set them aside.

– Slip an opening pick gently under the right side of the plastic cover that hides the NFC antenna and charging coil.

– Turn the pick sideways to lift the cover free from its plastic clips.

– Carefully work your way around the cover, prying upward to release the remaining clips and free the piece.

– Gently lift off the plastic cover that’s holding the NFC antenna and charging coil in place. It’s a quick move to make sure everything’s set for the next steps!

– Power down your phone—let it take a little nap before we dive in.

– Grab an iOpener and let it work its magic on the adhesive under the back glass. Keep it on for about two minutes. Don’t worry if you need to repeat it a couple of times to get the back cover off—sometimes the glue just likes to stick around!

– Get ready to tackle that back cover! In the next steps, we’ll be cutting through the adhesive that’s holding it in place.

– Here’s where you’ll want to focus your slicing:

– The thick adhesive spots

– The thinner adhesive areas

– Just a friendly reminder: steer clear of prying or slicing in this zone to keep the fingerprint sensor flex cable safe and sound!

– Pop in a second opening pick and slide it toward the bottom left corner. It’s like creating a little path for the next step.

– Now, grab a third opening pick and insert it at the bottom end of the phone. This pick stays in place during the rear glass removal to keep that sticky adhesive from making things harder than they need to be.

– Begin by gently sliding the tip of the opening pick from the bottom left corner along the side of your S9 Plus. Take your time, it’s like giving your phone a little massage!

– Once you’ve cut through the adhesive halfway up the left side, leave that opening pick right where it is. It’s doing a great job holding the fort!

– Now, slide the opening pick from the bottom right corner halfway up the frame and let it chill there. You’re making great progress!

– Place the fourth opening pick on the right side of the frame, and gently slide it towards the top right corner. Take your time, you got this!

– Now grab your fifth opening pick and slide it along the left side of the phone, making your way to the top left corner. Easy does it!

– Use the opening pick to carefully cut through the remaining adhesive near the upper part of the rear glass. Keep it steady and smooth for a clean break.

– Gently lift up the side of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out—no need for brute force, just a little finesse.

– Grab your trusty spudger and slide the edge under to pop up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor flex cable, nice and easy.

– Start by carefully removing the rear glass panel. When it’s time to put everything back together, follow this guide to apply new adhesive and reattach the rear glass smoothly. If you’re thinking about swapping out the rear glass, this guide will also walk you through transferring the rear camera bezel and the fingerprint sensor. For tricky parts, remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by removing the nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws to get the show on the road. Keep those screws safe—you’ll need them later. If you need extra hands, just schedule a repair with Salvation Repair to make things smooth sailing.

– Slide an opening pick under the right side of the plastic cover that holds the NFC antenna and charging coil.

– Turn the pick sideways to gently lift the cover out of its plastic clips.

– Carefully work your way around the cover, prying up to release all remaining clips and free the part.

– Pop off that plastic cover that’s hiding the NFC antenna and charging coil. It’s like unveiling the secret layer in your phone—just lift it off and you’re one step closer to victory!

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery flex cable—like giving your phone a little wake-up nudge!

– Start by unscrewing the two 4 mm Phillips #00 screws. Keep them safe—they’ll need to go back in later. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair with us to get it done right.

– Gently pop off that plastic cover from the motherboard—no need to wrestle with it, just a smooth move and you’re good to go.

– Time to get those five 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws out of there! Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s make them disappear.

– Slide your opening pick under the top edge of the loudspeaker assembly—think of it as giving the speaker a gentle nudge.

– Carefully lift up the loudspeaker assembly with the pick, like you’re opening a stubborn snack bag. Take it slow; you’ve got this!

– Take out the loudspeaker assembly—just ease it out, like you’re pulling the plug on a quiet party.

– Unscrew the 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screw and keep it safe—you’ll need it later!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and disconnect the headphone jack flex cable. You’ve got this!

– Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse. Don’t forget to add some fresh adhesive where needed after giving those areas a good clean with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

– When you’re reassembling, make sure to secure that fingerprint sensor with some pre-cut adhesive or double-sided tape. It’s a small step that makes a big difference!

– Got some e-waste? Be a hero and take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Once you’ve wrapped up the repair, check out this guide to test your handiwork.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, no worries! Try some basic troubleshooting, or feel free to reach out to our Answers community for a helping hand.

– Power down your device to start things off. Then, grab an iOpener and gently warm up the adhesive under the back glass. Keep the iOpener in place for at least two minutes to soften things up. You might find it helpful to repeat this step a few times as you carefully lift off the rear cover. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Time to tackle the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Get ready to slice and dice in style.

– You’ll be running your tool through the sticky zones shown here:

– Extra-thick strips of adhesive—these require some muscle.

– Slimmer adhesive areas—these come up easier.

– Steer clear of this spot so you don’t mess with the fingerprint sensor cable hiding underneath.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back cover and give it a gentle tug to start loosening things up.

– Pull up on the suction cup at the bottom edge of the back cover, creating a small gap between the cover and the frame—think of it as a tiny opening for your next move.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and carefully work it toward the bottom right corner, easing the cover away without any drama.

– Pop in a second opening pick and gently slide it to the bottom left corner. Take your time, it’s all about precision!

– Now, grab a third opening pick and wedge it at the bottom of the phone. Leave it there during the rear glass removal to keep that pesky adhesive from sealing up again. It’s like holding the door open while you work your magic.

– Begin by gently sliding the tip of your opening pick from the bottom left corner, making your way up the side of the S9 Plus.

– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive halfway up the left side, leave that pick in place like a trusty sidekick.

– Next, glide the opening pick from the bottom right corner, traveling halfway up the frame, and let it chill there for a bit.

– Pop a fourth opening pick into the right side of the frame and gently slide it to the top right corner.

– Now grab a fifth opening pick and slide it along the left side, making your way up to the top left corner.

– Use the pick to carefully slice through any remaining adhesive under the upper part of the rear glass.

– Gently lift the edge of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out. It’s like giving it a little nudge!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its edge to carefully pry up and disconnect that sneaky fingerprint sensor flex cable.

– Start by gently removing the rear glass—don’t rush, a careful touch goes a long way!

– When you’re putting everything back together, follow this guide to reapply the adhesive and get that rear glass sitting pretty again.

– If you’re swapping out the rear glass, no worries—just follow this guide to safely transfer the rear camera bezel and fingerprint sensor.

– Warm up the rear camera lens cover with a heated iOpener—let it sit for at least two minutes to loosen things up.

– Slide an opening pick carefully between the top edge of the bezel and the rear glass to get things started.

– Use the pick to gently cut through the adhesive underneath the upper part of the bezel, easing it away with a steady hand.

– Slip the opening pick under the right side of the rear camera bezel like a pro.

– Gently slide the pick along the bezel to break that adhesive seal.

– Twist the pick to carefully lift the rear camera bezel along with the fingerprint sensor. Easy does it!

– Stick that new back cover on with some trusty adhesive or double-sided tape.

– Ready to put things back together? Just follow these steps in reverse.

– Once the rear cover is in place, press firmly for a few minutes—maybe stack a couple of books on top for good measure—so everything bonds nicely.

– When you’re done, take a moment to run through the guide and make sure your device is working as it should. If you hit any snags, you can always schedule a repair.

– Power down your phone. Give it a moment to say goodbye.

– Grab your iOpener and let it work its magic on the sticky stuff under the rear glass. Keep it pressed for at least two minutes. You might need to do this a few times for stubborn glue, so no shame in a little repeat action.

– Alright, it’s time to get rid of that back cover! We’re going to carefully cut through the adhesive holding it in place.

– Focus on slicing through the sticky spots in these areas:

– Thicker adhesive spots that need a little extra effort

– Thinner adhesive areas that are a bit more forgiving

– A quick reminder—don’t go prying or slicing near the fingerprint sensor flex cable. You don’t want to damage that little guy!

– Stick your suction cup right onto the back cover—it’s about to be your best friend.

– Gently pull up on the bottom edge using the suction cup, just enough to crack open a tiny gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap you just made, then cruise it over to the bottom right corner.

– Grab a second opening pick and slide it down to the bottom left corner—like you’re drawing a little line dance for your phone.

– Now, bring in a third pick and stick it at the bottom of your device. Let it hang out there! It’ll keep the sticky adhesive from sneakily closing up shop while you work your magic on the rear glass.

– Begin by sliding the tip of your opening pick gently from the bottom left corner up along the side of the S9 Plus.

– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive halfway up the left side, just let that pick chill in place.

– Now, slide your opening pick from the bottom right corner halfway up the frame and leave it there, just like a pro!

– Pop in a fourth pick on the right edge and slide it up to the top right corner—think of it as your trusty sidekick.

– Take a fifth pick for a spin up the left edge until you hit the top left corner—like marking your territory.

– Work that pick along the upper part of the rear glass to slice through the last bits of clingy adhesive. Keep going, you’re almost there!

– Gently lift up the side of the rear glass where the volume button hangs out—no need for superhero strength here.

– Grab your trusty spudger and pop up the fingerprint sensor flex cable like you’re flipping the lid on your favorite snack.

– Gently remove the rear glass—it’s like peeling a sticker off, but more satisfying.

– When putting things back together, make sure to replace the adhesive and snug that rear glass back into place.

– If you’re swapping out the rear glass, follow this guide to carefully move the rear camera bezel and fingerprint sensor to the new one.

– Unscrew those nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws—think of it as your device’s way of letting you in. Keep them safe for the grand reassembly!

– Slide an opening pick under the right edge of the plastic cover—yep, the one with the NFC antenna and charging coil hiding underneath.

– Give the pick a little twist to pop the cover out of its plastic clips, like you’re flipping the switch on a secret door.

– Keep cruising around the cover, prying up gently to free those last stubborn clips. Almost there!

– Carefully peel off the plastic cover that’s hiding the NFC antenna and charging coil. If you need a hand or run into trouble, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery flex cable—like giving your phone a little nudge to wake up.

– Unscrew those two 4 mm Phillips #00 screws and set them aside. Keep track of them so you don’t lose any tiny treasures during the process. If you run into any trouble, remember you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for extra help.

– Pop off that plastic cover from the motherboard—just lift it gently and set it aside for now.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop off that display flex cable—easy does it!

– Get an iOpener and warm it up a bit, then gently press it onto the display for at least two minutes to loosen up that sticky adhesive underneath.

– Cover the entire screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape. This keeps any glass shards in check and adds some strength before you start prying and lifting.

– Think of it as giving the display a little armor—making sure everything stays intact and safe as you work your magic.

– Once the screen feels a little toasty, grab your suction cup and gently place it on the top edge of your phone.

– Now, slide an opening pick into the gap and start slicing through the adhesive, heading up to the top-left corner. Easy does it!

– Slide another opening pick up to the top right corner like you’re tracing a secret map.

– Pop in a third pick to keep that sneaky adhesive from gluing itself back together while you work.

– Grab your right opening pick and slide it halfway down the side of the frame—think of it as slicing through a stubborn sandwich.

– If it feels like you’re arm-wrestling the adhesive, give it another warm-up session with the iOpener and try again.

– Now, take a left opening pick, glide it halfway down the other side of the frame, and let it hang out there for moral support.

– Grab a fourth pick and work it along the left edge, sliding down to the bottom left corner. This will slice through that stubborn adhesive—almost there!

– Grab a fifth pick and cruise down the right side like you own the place.

– Swing around that bottom right corner and slice through the last bit of sticky stuff holding the display in place.

– After you’ve snipped the adhesive all around the phone, gently lift the display upwards and say goodbye to the old screen!

– Before you pop in that shiny new display, make sure to wipe away any remnants of the old adhesive from the frame. Grab some isopropyl alcohol (over 90% is best) and a lint-free cloth to give those glued areas a good clean.

– Power down your phone before you start. No one likes surprises.

– Grab your iOpener and give the rear glass some spa treatment for at least two minutes to loosen that stubborn adhesive. You might need to repeat this heat therapy a few times as you work the back cover free.

– Next up, we’ll be slicing through the sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place. Grab your tool and let’s get into it.

– Target these zones as you work:

– Extra-thick strips of adhesive

– Thin, sneaky bits of adhesive

– Steer clear of this spot—there’s a fingerprint sensor flex cable lurking there, and we want to keep it safe.

– Stick that suction cup smack onto the back cover.

– Gently pull up on the bottom edge with your suction cup until you see a little gap peek open between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap and cruise it over to the bottom right corner.

– Grab a second opening pick and gently slide it into the bottom left corner to get things started.

– Place a third opening pick at the bottom edge of the phone—leave it there during the rear glass removal to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Kick things off by sliding the tip of your opening pick from the bottom left corner up the side of your S9 Plus. Smooth moves, friend.

– Once you’ve sliced through about half the adhesive on the left side, leave that pick parked right where it is. No need to rush.

– Now, grab another pick and glide it from the bottom right corner up the frame—just halfway. Let it chill there for a bit.

– Pop a fourth opening pick into the right side of the frame and gently slide it toward the top right corner.

– Next, grab a fifth opening pick and carefully slide it along the left side of the phone, moving toward the top left corner.

– Now, use that opening pick to cut through the rest of the adhesive along the upper part of the rear glass.

– Gently lift the rear glass from the side where the volume button hangs out—like you’re opening a secret door.

– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully pop up the fingerprint sensor flex cable. No sudden moves—think ninja, not lumberjack.

– Pop off that rear glass like a pro.

– When putting everything back together, use this guide to get the adhesive in place and slap that rear glass back on.

– If you’re swapping out your rear glass, follow these steps to move the rear camera bezel and the fingerprint sensor along for the ride.

– Start by removing the nine 4 mm Phillips #00 screws holding things down. Keep your screwdriver handy and go for a smooth, steady turn—these screws are just snug enough to keep you on your toes. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide an opening pick under the right edge of the plastic cover that houses the NFC antenna and charging coil.

– Twist the pick sideways and pop the cover out of its plastic clips—like you’re flipping a pancake.

– Keep cruising around the cover, gently prying up to set the rest of those clips free.

– Lift off the plastic cover that holds the NFC antenna and charging coil—easy does it, like opening a present!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the battery flex cable like you’re flipping a light switch. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty iOpener and let’s get that battery adhesive loosened up! Just apply it for a solid two minutes to work its magic.

– Next up, when you’re using the spudger, make sure to stick to the areas highlighted in red. That’s where the battery adhesive is hanging out!

– And hey, steer clear of this spot! There’s a sneaky gap in the mid-frame right below the battery, and we wouldn’t want you to accidentally give the display a little love tap.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wedge the flat end into the top left corner of the battery, right where that flex cable is hiding. Apply steady, confident pressure and start prying it up—smooth and steady wins the race.

– Next, glide your way down the left edge of the battery, working the adhesive loose with your spudger. Keep it gentle but firm, and you’ll free that battery in no time.

– Slide your spudger into the top right corner of the battery and gently pop it up—like you’re opening a snack you really want.

– To put your device back together, just walk through these steps in reverse.

– If you can, power up your phone and check your repair before you seal everything up.

– Give your new battery a quick calibration for best performance once you’re done.

– Don’t toss those old parts—drop your e-waste off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Need a hand or stumped by a stubborn step? Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting magic, or schedule a repair if you want pro backup.

– Grab your trusty SIM card eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or even a straightened paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray at the top edge of your phone, right next to that sleek plastic antenna band.

– Give it a firm press to pop that tray out like a champ.

– Carefully remove the SIM card tray from its cozy little home.

– When you’re ready to put the SIM card back in, just make sure it’s facing the right way in relation to the tray. You’ve got this!

– First things first—disconnect your phone and shut it down before you dive in.

– Warm up your iOpener and park it on the right edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let that heat do its magic.

– While the iOpener works, check out the image of the removed back cover and scope out where the adhesive is hiding.

– Prop up the warmed right side of your phone on something about half an inch (13 mm) thick—this gives you a handy angle for using the opening tool.

– Hold the left edge steady with your fingers so your phone doesn’t take a little trip across the table. Give the suction cup a confident tug.

– Press the tip of your opening tool into the tiny gap between the back cover and the frame—think of it like sneaking a chip into salsa.

– With your tool in the gap, slide it back and forth along the seam to loosen up the back cover. Slow and steady wins the race!

– Glide your pick along the edge of the phone to slice through that sneaky adhesive.

– Pop a pick in the gap to keep the adhesive from making a comeback.

– Warm up the bottom edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for a couple of minutes—think of it as giving your device a mini spa treatment.

– Grab an opening pick and sneak it into the right edge, close to the bottom right corner. No need to rush—precision is key here.

– Glide the pick smoothly around the corner, then keep slicing along the bottom edge and cruise past the bottom left corner. You’re on a roll!

– Pop an opening pick into the seam to stop that stubborn adhesive from sticking things back together.

– Keep that heat going and slice away at those remaining edges of the phone with style!

– After you’ve made your way around the phone with your trusty tool, gently twist an opening pick into one of the edges to help pop the back cover away from the frame.

– Carefully lift the back cover. If there’s any stubborn adhesive still hanging on, use those opening picks to help slice through the last bits.

– Now, go ahead and remove the back cover completely.

– This is a great moment to power on your phone and check that everything’s working like a charm before sealing up the back cover. Just remember to turn it off completely before diving back into the repair.

– Follow this guide to put the back cover back on, transfer and install the camera bezel, and replace that adhesive like a pro.

– Take out the eight 4 mm Phillips screws holding the top midframe in place. Time to show those screws who’s boss!

– The midframe is still hanging on with a few plastic clips along the edges. Grab a spudger and slip its tip into the notch on the right side of the midframe, near the volume up button. Gently pry upward to loosen the midframe from the phone. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by gently lifting the midframe from the top corners and pull it off the phone.

– To get the top midframe back in place:

– Line up the midframe’s top edge with the phone, and carefully lower it onto the device.

– Press gently around the edges of the midframe to make sure the clips snap back in. The frame should sit flush against the phone’s body.

– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the battery connector that’s cozying up to the motherboard beneath the rear-facing camera.

– Gently pry upwards to free that connector from its socket—it’s just a little shy!

– Carefully nudge the battery’s flex cable away from the motherboard socket, just to keep things from bumping into each other accidentally.

– Loosen and remove the seven 4 mm Phillips screws holding down the lower midframe. Keep them safe—you’ll need them to put everything back together later. If you need a hand with anything, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the top right corner of the lower midframe.

– Gently pry it up to pop that midframe free from the phone!

– Grab that loose end of the midframe with your fingers and gently lift it up, nice and easy.

– Give the midframe a little wiggle to help pop those stubborn edge clips free.

– Now, go ahead and take out the lower midframe. Just a heads up, the loudspeaker is snugly tucked into the lower midframe.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the display connector from its socket on the motherboard, which is near the bottom right corner of the phone. Easy does it—just a little wiggle and lift.

– Take your spudger and gently pop the headphone jack connector out of its spot on the motherboard. Easy does it!

– Unscrew the three 3.7 mm Phillips screws that are holding the motherboard in place. You’ve got this!

– Slide the tip of your spudger under the right side of the motherboard—yep, right by the volume down button.

– Give it a gentle lift to help nudge the motherboard out of its cozy spot.

– Take your spudger and slide its tip under the bottom left corner of the motherboard—like you’re flipping a pancake, but gentler.

– Give it a careful lift to loosen the motherboard from its spot. No need to flex those muscles—let the tool do the work.

– With a gentle grip, take hold of the motherboard by its top corners.

– Carefully swing the motherboard out of its snug little home. Watch out for any cables that might want to tag along!

– Now, give the motherboard a little nudge towards the top edge of the phone while giving it a slight wiggle. This will help free the charging port from its cozy socket.

– Once the charging port is free, go ahead and remove the motherboard.

– Ready to put the motherboard back in? Here’s how:

– Line up the charging port of the motherboard with the bottom edge of the phone.

– Gently press the motherboard against the bottom edge until the charging port is snugly seated.

– Lower the motherboard and press it into place. Just be careful not to squish any cables underneath! The board should sit nice and flush against the frame.