Author: Ralph Harris

– If your display glass has seen better days and is cracked, let’s keep it from getting worse and avoid any oops moments during your repair by slapping some tape on it.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. Think of it as giving your device a protective hug!

– Now, follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once that glass starts to crack, it might decide to keep cracking while you work. You might need to break out a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass bits. But no worries, you’ve got this!

– There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly firmly in place, as seen on the left. When prying in the next steps, take your time to carefully work around these clips—try not to slice through them with your opening tool!

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

– Give the spudger a little twist away from you to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display.

– Now, grab a second metal spudger and slide it back into that same spot to keep those tabs from snapping back in place.

– Grab a spudger and gently work your way down the right edge of the iPad. Patience is key!

– The front panel is held in place by some metal clips at the top, bottom, and left, while the right side has some plastic tabs that slide into the backplate. It’s like a jigsaw puzzle!

– Once those clips are free, carefully lift the left side of the front panel and slide it to the left to release the tabs from the aluminum backplate. You’re almost there!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel by the bottom edge. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Alright, time to free up the display assembly! In these next steps, we’re going to unplug the three cables that connect the display to the logic board. Each one controls a specific part, so here’s the breakdown:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab a plastic opening tool and use the edge to gently flip up those little retaining flaps that are holding the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board.

– Now, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Take your time, they should come out with ease.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket by prying upward. Easy does it!

– Gently lift the shiny metal retainer using its trusty black plastic pull tab—think of it as opening a treasure chest for your tech!

– Slide the cable connector out of its socket with care, like you’re unplugging a secret agent’s gadget.

– Gently separate the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and get ready for action:

– Gently lift up the little flap on the ZIF ribbon cable socket near the headphone jack—no muscles needed here, just a careful touch!

– Slide the headphone jack ribbon cable out toward the left side of your iPad to disconnect it. Smooth moves!

– Pop the side button connector off the logic board by prying from underneath the wires. Take it slow and steady.

– Lift the speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board, going underneath the speaker wires. You’re almost there!

– Let’s get down to business! First off, you’ll want to take out those screws that hold the logic board snug against the rear panel assembly.

– There are two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws just waiting for you to give them a twist.

– And don’t forget about the two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws—they’re just as important!

– Put everything back together by following these steps in reverse—easy peasy!

– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape and cover that glass to avoid any further breakage and protect yourself during the repair.

– Take some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips on the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. It’s like giving it a stylish new outfit!

– Now, as you continue with the guide, just do your best! Once the glass starts to crack, it might keep at it, and that’s okay. You might need to get a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass. Remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair!

– The display assembly is held in place by 14 metal clips, as shown on the left. When prying in the next steps, try to carefully work around these clips without cutting through them with your opening tool.

– Slide a metal spudger in between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

– Gently twist the spudger away from you to pop those tabs loose along the top edge of the display.

– Pop in a second metal spudger between the display assembly and rear panel to keep the tabs from snapping back.

– Grab your trusty spudger and shimmy it along the right edge of your iPad—it’s like giving your device a gentle wake-up call.

– Heads up: The front panel is attached to the aluminum back with metal clips on the top, bottom, and left. The right side is hanging on with plastic tabs that tuck into little pockets in the backplate.

– Once you’ve freed the clips, lift the left side of the front panel and slide it left to slip those tabs out of their cozy aluminum spots.

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel by its bottom edge, like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– Alright, let’s get down to business! In the next few steps, we’ll be disconnecting the three cables that link the display assembly to the logic board. These cables are for some pretty important components:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge those little retaining flaps up, freeing the digitizer ribbon cables from their snug homes on the logic board.

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket—just a little lift upwards does the trick!

– Let’s get that display data cable off the main board! Just flip up the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab, and you’ll be golden.

– Now, gently pull the cable connector away from its socket. Easy peasy!

– Gently pop the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly to separate the two parts.

– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the ambient light sensor board to loosen it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the display frame.

– Once you have enough wiggle room, carefully lift the ambient light sensor away from the LCD.

– If needed, attach the plastic view window to your new ambient light sensor before putting it in place.

– Gently hold onto the digitizer cable and peel back the tape that’s keeping it attached to the display frame. Slow and steady wins the race—no need to rush!

– First things first, let’s tackle those three T5 Torx screws that are keeping the clips and LCD brackets snugly in place near the home button switch. Unscrew them with care!

– Now, gently peel away the display clip along with its trusty tape from the black plastic display frame. Take your time; we want to keep everything intact!

– If you’re in the business of swapping out the LCD, don’t forget to transfer those little pieces of EMI tape and their clips to your shiny new LCD. They’re essential for a smooth operation!

– Unscrew the last few T5 Torx screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the black plastic display frame. You’re almost there!

– Slip the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool under one of the little ‘ears’ connected to the steel LCD frame.

– Give the tool a gentle twist to start lifting the LCD off the sticky adhesive that’s holding it onto the front glass panel.

– Go ahead and use the same prying technique from the previous step to gently lift the display along the three sides that don’t have the digitizer cable. Stay patient and keep it smooth!

– Gently lift the LCD from its loose end and carefully pop it out of the display frame.

– Slowly peel back the adhesive holding the longer side of the LCD to the frame, then lift the LCD away.

– If it’s still hanging out with the front panel, gently peel off the strip of EMI tape near the ambient light sensor socket.

– If you need to, move that tape over to your shiny new LCD.

– If it’s stuck to the LCD and you’re keeping your old one, just skip this part. But if you’re swapping out the LCD too, make sure to give that strip of EMI tape a new home on your new LCD.

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse — you’ve got this! If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair for a hand.

– If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass before you start.

– Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up.

– Follow the rest of the guide as closely as you can, but heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the broken glass.

– There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly in place, shown at left. As you pry in the following steps, aim to gently work around these clips without slicing through them with your opening tool.

– Slide your trusty metal spudger between the top edge of the display and the rear panel—think of it as parting two best friends for a moment.

– Give the spudger a gentle twist away from you to pop those sneaky tabs along the top edge loose.

– Now, introduce a second metal spudger in there to keep those tabs from snapping back together like a pair of magnets.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work your way down the right edge of your iPad—like slicing through a digital cake!

– The front panel is locked in with some snazzy metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side? It’s got some cool plastic tabs that slide into little pockets in the backplate.

– Once you pop those clips free, lift the left edge of the front panel and slide it left to let those tabs escape from the aluminum backplate. Smooth moves!

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge, like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– Next up, we’re going to unplug the three cables that link the display assembly to the logic board. These cables connect the following parts:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the little retaining flaps that are keeping the digitizer ribbon cables snug in their sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Once those flaps are up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their cozy sockets. Easy peasy!

– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully pop the ambient light sensor connector out of its socket by gently prying upward. Easy does it!

– Gently pop up that metal retainer by tugging on the black plastic pull tab—think of it as giving your cable a little freedom.

– Now, slide the cable connector out of its socket, smooth and steady. You’re doing great!

– Gently detach the display assembly from the rear panel assembly, like peeling a banana. You’ve got this!

– Carefully take out those two T5 Torx screws that are holding the home button switch board snugly to the display frame. You’re almost there!

– Put everything back together by simply reversing these steps—easy peasy!

– Got a cracked display glass? Let’s keep those shards in check and protect your digits—grab some clear packing tape.

– Cover the whole screen with overlapping strips, like you’re wrapping the world’s flattest present.

– Stick to the guide as much as possible, but heads up: broken glass tends to crack even more as you go. If things get stubborn, a metal prying tool can help you scoop out the glass bits.

– There are 14 little metal clips keeping the display assembly snug in place, as you can see in the image. When you’re prying in the next steps, aim to work around these clips instead of slicing right through them with your opening tool—they’re not fans of being chopped up!

– Slip a trusty metal spudger between the top edge of the display and the rear panel—like you’re opening a stubborn snack pack.

– Give the spudger a gentle twist away from you to free up those sneaky tabs along the top edge.

– Pop a second metal spudger into the gap to keep the tabs from snapping back—because nobody likes starting over!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently glide it along the right edge of your iPad like you’re drawing a line with a magic wand.

– The front panel is attached to the aluminum back with metal clips along the top, bottom, and left—while the right side uses sneaky plastic tabs that tuck into little slots.

– Once you’ve freed those clips, smoothly lift the left side of the front panel and slide it left to let those tabs escape from the aluminum backplate. Nice work!

– Gently peel the display assembly up from the bottom edge to separate it from the rear panel assembly.

– Alright, let’s get those three cables unplugged! They’re connecting your display assembly to the logic board, and each one has a special job:

– Digitizer (the touchy-feely part)

– Ambient Light Sensor (keeps things bright or dim as needed)

– Display Data Cable (makes your screen look awesome)

– Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps that keep the digitizer ribbon cables snug in their sockets on the logic board, and gently flip them up.

– Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out from their sockets to disconnect them.

– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully pry upward to unplug the ambient light sensor connector from its socket. Easy does it!

– Gently flip up the metal latch using the black plastic pull tab to free the display data cable from the main board.

– Carefully pull the cable connector straight out from its socket.

– Carefully lift and separate the display assembly from the rear panel assembly to keep things moving smoothly.

– Grab your iPod opening tool (or just use your trusty fingernail) and gently flip up that little ZIF cable retaining flap on the headphone jack socket. Give it a careful lift—no Hulk strength needed!

– Gently wiggle and pull the headphone jack cable free from its spot on the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Loosen and take out the two 2.8 mm T5 Torx screws holding the headphone jack firmly to the rear case. Keep them safe—they’re small but mighty!

– To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. You’ve got this! If you hit any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for expert help.

– Oops, cracked screen? Let’s keep that glass from causing any drama! Slap on some clear packing tape over the entire display—layer it up so every bit is covered.

– This will help hold things together and save your fingers from surprise glass confetti.

– Follow the rest of the steps like a pro, but heads up—broken glass likes to keep cracking. If you run into stubborn shards, grab a metal prying tool and gently scoop them out.

– Slide a metal spudger gently between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

– Twist the spudger away from you to pop loose those stubborn tabs along the top edge of the display.

– Wedge a second metal spudger in there to hold the tabs open so they don’t snap back on you.

– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully glide it along the right edge of the iPad.

– The front panel is snugly held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides, while the right side features plastic tabs that slide into slots in the backplate.

– Once those clips are popped free, gently lift the left side of the front panel and slide it left to free the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

– Gently peel the display assembly off the rear panel assembly by lifting from the bottom edge—easy does it!

– Alright, let’s get started! In the next steps, we’re going to gently unplug the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These cables are linked to the following components:

– Digitizer

– Ambient Light Sensor

– Display Data Cable

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop up the little flaps that are holding the digitizer ribbon cables in place on the logic board—think of it as unlocking their tiny seatbelts.

– Carefully slide those digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets, letting them stretch their legs a bit.

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the ambient light sensor connector out of its cozy socket by prying it upward with care. You’ve got this!

– Gently flip up the metal retainer using the black plastic pull tab to release the display data cable from the main board.

– Carefully pull the cable connector straight out from its socket.

– Gently separate the display assembly from the rear panel assembly and set it aside.

– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the ambient light sensor board away from the adhesive holding it to the display frame.

– Once you have enough room, carefully peel the ambient light sensor off the LCD.

– If needed, attach the plastic view window to your new ambient light sensor before you install it.

– Keep the digitizer cable nice and secure with one hand while you gently peel back the tape that’s holding it to the display frame. Easy does it!

– First things first, let’s get those three T5 Torx screws out of the way! They’re holding the clips and LCD brackets snugly in place, right near the home button switch, so grab your tool and let’s do this.

– Now, gently peel back the display clip and its trusty tape from the black plastic display frame. Take your time—it’s like unwrapping a present!

– If you’re swapping in a shiny new LCD, don’t forget to transfer those little pieces of EMI tape and their clips over to the new screen. You want everything to fit just right!

– Take out the remaining T5 Torx screws holding the LCD onto the black plastic display frame. Keep those screws somewhere safe—no scavenger hunts later!

– Slip the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool under one of the little tabs on the steel LCD frame.

– Give the tool a gentle twist to coax the LCD up and away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the front glass panel.

– Go ahead and do the same prying routine from the last step to gently lift the display along the three sides opposite the digitizer cable. Keep it cool and steady!

– Gently lift the LCD from one end and carefully free it from the display frame.

– Peel back the adhesive holding the long edge of the LCD to the frame, and slowly remove the LCD from its place.

– If the EMI tape strip is still hanging out on the front panel near the ambient light sensor socket, gently peel it off.

– Need a fresh start? Move this tape to your brand-new LCD.

– If the tape is already vibing with your old LCD and you’re keeping it, skip this step. But if you’re swapping in a new LCD, make sure to invite the tape to join the party on your new screen!

– If those clips and EMI tape down at the bottom of your LCD are still looking sharp, go ahead and move them over to your new screen—give them a fresh start!

– Let’s kick things off by unscrewing those two T5 Torx screws that are keeping the home button switch snugly attached to the plastic display frame.

– Once those screws are out of the way, gently lift the home button switch board from the front panel assembly. You’re doing great!

– If you’re reusing your LCD, grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift one corner of the foam tape stuck to the LCD.

– Peel off the tape that’s hugging the edges of the LCD glass.

– Gently peel away the yellow tape that’s holding the digitizer cable snug against the inner side of the front panel assembly. Just take your time and be cautious not to tear that cable while you’re at it!

– Carefully remove the protective film from the inner face of the front panel assembly. It’s like unveiling a shiny new toy!

– Place the tape along the long edge of the LCD, sticking it securely to the frame of the front panel assembly. Keep it neat, and you’re on the right track!

– Gently lower the LCD into its snug spot in the front panel frame, making sure it’s aligned perfectly. A little patience here goes a long way!

– Carefully peel back the strips of EMI tape along the bottom edge of the LCD while you remove the two T5 Torx screws holding the retaining clips in place.

– Press the tape down onto the new clips and pop those two T5 Torx screws back in to secure everything.

– Grab your heat gun and carefully warm up the plastic display frame around the home button from the inside of the front glass panel. Take it easy—just enough to loosen things up without causing any trouble!

– Once the adhesive is nice and toasty, grab a plastic opening tool and gently wiggle it along the edge of the plastic display frame to pop it away from the front glass panel. Take your time, it’s not a race!

– Slide your tool beneath the plastic display frame near the home button area to help separate it from the front glass. A little patience goes a long way here!

– Warm up that lower right corner of the plastic display frame (as you face the front of your iPad) to loosen the sticky adhesive holding it tight against the front glass panel. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry the plastic frame away from the glass panel. Just a heads up—be extra careful not to mess up that rubber strip around the glass edge. You’ve got this!

– Keep that heat flowing and gently pry the plastic display bracket along the bottom right edge until it pops free from the front glass panel. You’re doing great!

– Gently warm up the rubber connection area. Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the plastic display frame away from the front glass panel just enough to reach the rubber section.

– While keeping the display frame lifted, use a razor blade to cautiously slice through the rubber ‘dots’ securing the frame to the front panel.

– Keep heating and gently prying along the top edge of the frame until it finally comes off from the glass panel. You’ve got this!

– Start by gently heating up the lower left corner of the panel (from the front view) to help loosen the ribbon cable side of the display bracket.

– Take it slow and carefully separate the lower edge of the ribbon cable side, moving towards the rubber connection that links the frame to the glass panel.

– Keep going with the same technique from earlier to cut through the rubber ‘dots’ that are holding the two parts together.

– Grab that heat gun and gently warm up the adhesive on both sides of the digitizer cable. Just be sure to keep your cool and avoid melting the cable itself!

– Now, it’s time to pry off the last bit of the plastic display frame from the front glass. You’ve got this!

– When putting your device back together, just reverse the steps you followed earlier. Pro tip: start by snapping in the right side first – it has those sturdy fixed lugs instead of clips. Skip this, and you might find yourself hunting down new retaining clips! If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us.