Author: Ralph Harris

– First things first, power down your iPhone. It’s always a good idea to give your device a little break before diving in.

– Next, grab your trusty pentalobe screwdriver and remove the two 3.5 mm screws from the bottom edge of your iPhone. They’re easy to miss, but don’t worry, you got this!

– Get ready to channel your inner artist! Grab your permanent marker and measure about 3 mm from the end of the opening pick. Mark it like you mean it!

– Cover the entire iPhone screen by layering clear packing tape strips that overlap each other.

– If the suction cup refuses to stick in the upcoming steps, grab a sturdy tape (like duct tape), fold it into a little handle, and use that to gently lift the screen instead.

– Grab the blue handle and pull it back to free up the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Slide those arms carefully over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

– Place the suction cups near the bottom edge, just above the home button—one on the front, one on the back.

– Give the cups a gentle squeeze so they stick snugly to the area you want to work on.

– Give that blue handle a gentle pull forward to lock those arms in place. You’ve got this!

– Now, let’s twist that handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you see the cups starting to stretch. Keep going, you’re doing great!

– Just a quick check—make sure those suction cups are still best buddies, aligned perfectly. If they start to drift apart, loosen them up a bit and line those arms back up. You’re on the right track!

– Warm up an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

– Fold the iOpener so it rests along the bottom edge of the iPhone.

– Give it about a minute to let the adhesive soften and an opening gap appear.

– Slide an opening pick under the screen once the Anti-Clamp has created enough space.

– Skip the next three steps.

– Grab a hairdryer or your trusty iOpener and aim it at the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds. This will help loosen up that pesky adhesive lurking beneath!

– Stick a suction cup on the lower part of the front panel, just above the home button. Let’s get that panel ready for some magic!

– Give that suction cup a steady, confident pull—just enough to crack open a tiny gap between the front and back of your device.

– Slip an opening pick or a slim pry tool into the gap, just a couple millimeters deep. No need to go spelunking—just enough to get things started.

– Gently slide your pick around the corner and glide it up the left edge of the phone, heading towards the volume buttons and silent switch. This will loosen the adhesive holding the display in place.

– Pause once you reach the top left corner of the display.

– Pop your tool back into the lower right corner of your iPhone, and glide it smoothly around the corner and up the right edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Grab the suction cup and give it a gentle pull to start lifting the bottom edge of the display—think of it as opening a stubborn jar, but with a lot less mess.

– Grab the tiny nub on the suction cup and give it a little pull to peel it off the front panel.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the top edge of the display to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently nudge the display assembly downward, away from the top edge of the phone, to pop it free from the clips that are keeping it snugly attached to the rear case.

– Open up the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, just like flipping the cover of a book.

– Prop the display up against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic on the phone.

– Start by unscrewing those four Phillips (JIS) screws keeping the lower display cable bracket snug on the logic board. Here are the lengths you’ll need to keep track of:

– Remember, as you tackle this adventure, keep an eye on your screws! Making sure each one finds its way home during reassembly is key. A misplaced screw can lead to some serious headaches down the road.

– Two screws measuring 1.3 mm

– One screw that’s 1.4 mm

– And one more, at 2.7 mm

– Take off the lower display cable bracket with care.

– Gently lift the battery connector from its socket using the pointy end of your spudger—like you’re popping open a tiny treasure chest.

– Tilt the connector cable up a bit so it doesn’t sneak back into its socket and accidentally power on your device while you’re working your repair magic.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to pop the big lower display connector straight up and out of its socket. Take it slow to keep things safe!

– When snapping connectors like this back in, press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pushing in the middle to prevent bending the connector, which could cause serious damage.

– Time to tackle the next cable! Unplug the second lower display cable connector, just behind the one you removed earlier. It’s a simple step, but it’s gotta be done!

– Take out the two tri-point Y000 screws holding down the bracket that covers the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One 1.0 mm screw

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Take off the bracket that’s hiding the front panel sensor assembly connector.

– Gently pry the front panel sensor assembly connector out of its socket using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail.

– Carefully lift off the display assembly.

– If you’re planning on replacing the adhesive around the edges of the display, now’s the time to pause and take care of that before you continue reassembling.

– Take out the four Y000 screws holding down the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

– When putting it back together, go easy on those screws—cranking them too tight can make your home button act up.

– One screw is 1.2 mm long.

– The other three are 1.3 mm long.

– Take off the bracket holding the home/Touch ID sensor—just a quick lift and you’re on your way!

– Gently slide under the left edge of the home button cable connector to carefully pop it free from its socket.

– Flip the display assembly over. Grab a hairdryer or get an iOpener ready, and warm up the bottom edge of the screen for about 90 seconds to loosen up that stubborn adhesive underneath.

– Grab an opening pick and gently work it under the home/Touch ID sensor cable to loosen up that sticky adhesive. Take it slow and steady—no need to rush!

– Take a moment to compare your shiny new replacement part with the original—you might need to move over a few components or peel off those pesky adhesive backings from the new one before you dive into the installation.

– To get your device back in action, simply retrace your steps from above in reverse order. Easy peasy!

– Ready to bid farewell to your e-waste? Don’t forget to take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s a win for you and Mother Earth!

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t sweat it! Swing by our Answers community for a dose of troubleshooting advice.

– Shut down your iPhone before you start taking it apart. Trust us, your phone will thank you.

– Unscrew the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws hanging out at the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Take a moment to measure 3 mm from the tip and give that opening pick a little mark with a permanent marker. You’re doing great!

– Cover the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, making sure to go edge-to-edge for full coverage.

– If the suction cup isn’t sticking, grab some duct tape, fold it into a makeshift handle, and use that to lift the screen.

– Give that blue handle a gentle pull back to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Slide the arms over either side of your iPhone—left or right, dealer’s choice.

– Line up the suction cups just above the home button, one chilling on the front and one hanging out on the back.

– Squeeze those cups together like you mean it to get some good suction going.

– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise—or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to wander, just loosen them a touch and realign the arms.

– Heat up the iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

– Fold the iOpener so it rests along the bottom edge of the iPhone.

– Give it a minute to warm things up and loosen that adhesive, creating a nice opening gap.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has made enough room, gently slide an opening pick under the screen.

– You can skip the next three steps.

– Grab a hairdryer or heat up an iOpener, then gently apply it to the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds. This will help loosen the adhesive beneath, making the next steps a bit smoother.

– Place a suction cup on the lower part of the front panel, right above the home button. Let’s get that screen ready for action!

– Grab the suction cup and pull up steadily with some solid pressure to pop a small gap between the front panel and rear case.

– Slip an opening pick or a slim pry tool just a few millimeters into that gap to get things started.

– Gently slide your pick around the corner and glide it up the left edge of the phone, heading towards the volume buttons and silent switch, carefully loosening the adhesive holding the display in place.

– Pause once you reach the top left corner of the display.

– Pop your tool back into the lower right corner of your iPhone, then glide it smoothly around the corner and up the right edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Carefully tug on the suction cup to elevate the bottom edge of the display.

– Grab the tiny nub on the suction cup and give it a gentle pull to peel it off the front panel.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the display at the top edge of the phone to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently slide the display assembly downwards, away from the phone’s top edge, to free it from the clips that secure it to the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Carefully open your iPhone by lifting the display from the left side, just like flipping the cover of a book.

– Once you’ve got it open, lean the display against something sturdy to keep it upright while you work your magic on the phone.

– Unscrew the four Phillips (JIS) screws that are holding the lower display cable bracket to the logic board. Here’s the breakdown of the screw lengths you’ll be dealing with:

– Make sure to keep track of those screws throughout the process. Mixing them up can lead to some unwanted damage. Put each one back where it belongs during reassembly!

– Two screws, 1.3 mm in length

– One screw, 1.4 mm in length

– One screw, 2.7 mm in length

– Take off the lower display cable bracket with care.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Don’t be shy, but don’t force it either.

– Tilt the connector cable up a bit—think of it as giving the battery a little time-out—so it doesn’t sneak back into the socket and power up the phone while you’re working your magic.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the big lower display connector straight up from its socket. Be careful and go slow!

– When reattaching connectors like this one, press firmly on one side until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—it can cause the connector to misalign or even bend, which could lead to some serious damage. If you’re unsure, no worries, you can always schedule a repair.

– Time to unplug the second lower display cable connector—it’s hanging out right behind the one you just disconnected. Give it a gentle wiggle and pop it out.

– Take out the two tri-point Y000 screws holding down the bracket that covers the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One 1.0 mm screw

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Carefully take off the bracket that’s hiding the front panel sensor assembly connector.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to unplug the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket. You’ve got this!

– Take off the display assembly carefully.

– If you want to freshen up the adhesive around the edges of the display, this is the perfect spot to pause and do it before putting everything back together.

– Take out the two Y000 screws holding down the rear camera connector cover bracket:

– One screw is 1.4 mm

– One nonferrous screw is also 1.4 mm—it’s got a mind of its own and won’t stick to a magnetized screwdriver.

– Give that nonferrous screw the VIP treatment and put it back exactly where it came from—a magnetized screw here could mess with your compass.

– Pop off the bracket! It’s easy, just give it a little nudge and you’re all set.

– Unscrew the two screws holding down the rear camera module cover plate:

– One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

– One 2.7 mm (nonferrous) standoff screw

– Pop off the cover plate from the back of the camera module like a pro!

– Gently pop up those two camera cable connectors using an opening tool or your trusty fingernail. Just lift them straight out of their sockets—no sweat!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the rear-facing camera assembly and give it a little lift from the top edge of your iPhone. You’ve got this!

– Double-check that your new part matches the original—don’t forget to move any leftover bits or peel off the sticky stuff from the new piece before you get it all set up.

– Put your device back together by retracing your steps from earlier.

– Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler—let’s keep our planet happy!

– Things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped? No worries! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips and tricks.

– Make sure to power down your iPhone before you start taking it apart.

– Unscrew the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Grab your opening pick and mark a spot 3 mm from the tip with a permanent marker—precision is the name of the game!

– Cover the iPhone’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is protected.

– If the suction cup won’t stick in the next steps, try folding a sturdy tape like duct tape into a little handle and use that to gently lift the screen instead.

– Give that blue handle a gentle pull back to set the Anti-Clamp arms free.

– Slide those arms around either the left or right edge of your iPhone—like a hug, but for your device.

– Get the suction cups lined up just above the home button, one on the front, one on the back, right near the bottom edge.

– Squeeze the cups together until you’ve got a good grip on the spot you want to work with.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree twist clockwise, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep the suction cups lined up like a well-rehearsed dance duo. If they start to drift apart, just loosen the cups a smidge and realign the arms.

– Warm up your iOpener and slip it between the arms of the Anti-Clamp—like threading a needle, but way less stressful.

– Bend the iOpener so it cozies up to the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it about a minute for the adhesive to loosen its grip and make room for some action.

– When the Anti-Clamp gives you a nice gap, slide in your opening pick under the screen with style.

– No need to bother with the next three steps—skip ahead!

– Grab a hairdryer or prep your iOpener, then warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds—just enough to loosen up that stubborn adhesive holding things together.

– Place a suction cup on the lower part of the front panel, right above the home button, and get ready to gently lift that screen!

– Give that suction cup a nice, steady pull to wiggle open a tiny gap between the front panel and rear case. You’ve got this!

– Now, slide in an opening pick or any other slim pry tool just a few millimeters into that gap you’ve created.

– Gently slide your pick around the corner and up the left side of the phone, heading towards the volume buttons and silent switch, carefully loosening the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place.

– Pause once you reach the top left corner of the screen.

– Gently reintroduce your tool into the lower right corner of the iPhone, then glide it around the corner and up the right side to skillfully break apart the adhesive. Keep it smooth and have fun with it!

– Carefully lift the bottom edge of the display by pulling up on the suction cup with a gentle touch.

– Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off the front panel. You got this!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the top edge of the display to carefully break through the last bit of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently slide the display assembly down a bit, away from the top edge of your phone, to free those clips that are keeping it snug against the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Pop open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, just like flipping open the back cover of a book.

– Prop the display up by leaning it against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic inside.

– First, let’s tackle those four Phillips (JIS) screws that are holding the lower display cable bracket snugly to the logic board. Keep an eye out for the lengths needed:

– As you progress through this guide, be sure to keep tabs on your screws! Each one deserves to go back to its original home during reassembly. Placing a screw in the wrong spot could lead to some serious drama.

– You’ll need two 1.3 mm screws

– One 1.4 mm screw

– And one 2.7 mm screw

– Pop off the lower display cable bracket—just a gentle lift and it’s free!

– Take your spudger and carefully lift the battery connector from its spot on the logic board. Go slow and steady here!

– Gently tilt the connector cable upwards a little so it won’t accidentally make contact with the socket and power up your phone during the repair. A little precaution goes a long way!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the big lower display connector straight up and unplug it from its socket.

– When putting connectors like this back, press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—if it’s even a bit off, the connector might bend and get permanently damaged.

– Unplug the second lower display cable connector, which is right behind the one you just disconnected. You’re doing great!

– Take out the two tri-point Y000 screws holding down the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One screw is 1.0 mm

– The other is 1.2 mm

– Take off the bracket that’s hanging out over the front panel sensor assembly connector—no need for drama, just a smooth move.

– Gently pry open the front panel sensor assembly connector using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail, and disconnect it from its socket with care.

– Carefully take out the display assembly.

– When you’re putting everything back together, feel free to stop here if you’d like to swap out the adhesive around the edges of the display.

– Let’s kick things off by loosening up the three screws that are keeping that L-shaped bracket snug right by the Taptic Engine. Here’s what you’re looking for:

– One energizing 1.3 mm Y000 screw

– One charismatic 2.6 mm Phillips screw

– One reliable 3.5 mm Phillips screw

– Take off the bracket and set it aside like a pro.

– Grab an opening pick and carefully wiggle it underneath the antenna flex cable, gently lifting it away from the top of the speaker. A little patience goes a long way here!

– Grab the pointy end of a spudger and gently pry up the antenna flex cable from the logic board to disconnect it.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the tip to carefully pry up and detach the other end of the antenna flex cable from its cozy little socket next to the Lightning Port. You’ve got this!

– Now, reconnecting this cable might feel like a little puzzle. Make it a breeze by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable steady as you line up the connector with its socket. Then, give it a gentle press down with the flat side of your spudger until you hear that satisfying click. Perfect!

– Take out the Wi-Fi diversity antenna with care.

– Unscrew the three Phillips screws holding the speaker in place. It’s not a screw party until all three are out!

– When you’re putting things back together, gently press the speaker down toward the bottom edge of your iPhone until those screw holes line up perfectly. Hold it steady while you pop the screws back in.

– Two screws are 1.4 mm—small but mighty.

– One screw is 2.4 mm—tall, dark, and slightly longer.

– Give your shiny new replacement part a good look against the original part—you might need to move over some residual bits or peel off sticky stuff from the new part before it goes in.

– Put your device back together by doing everything we covered above in reverse. Easy peasy!

– Don’t let that e-waste go to waste! Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t sweat it! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips or if you prefer, you can always schedule a repair.

– Before you dive in, shut down your iPhone completely. We don’t want any surprise buzzes mid-repair!

– Take out the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws sitting at the bottom edge of your iPhone. It’s like opening the door to your phone’s secret world.

– Grab your opening pick and measure out 3 mm from the tip—then give it a stylish mark with a permanent marker.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over your iPhone’s screen until the entire face is covered up. It’s like giving your phone a cozy blanket!

– If that suction cup isn’t sticking like you hoped, no problem! Just fold a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape works great) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead. You’ve got this!

– Grab the blue handle and pull it back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Slide those arms carefully over either the left or right side of your iPhone.

– Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone, just above the home button—one on the front, the other on the back.

– Press the cups together to create a solid suction grip on the spot you want.

– Give that blue handle a nice pull forward to lock the arms in place. You got this!

– Now, twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until those suction cups start to stretch out. Keep it smooth!

– Double-check that the suction cups are still lined up like best buddies. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a tad and get those arms back in sync.

– Warm up your iOpener and slip it between the Anti-Clamp’s arms—like threading a needle, but more high-tech.

– Fold the iOpener so it lounges comfortably along the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it a minute—let the heat do its thing and loosen up that stubborn adhesive. You’ll spot a gap soon.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and made a nice opening, slide an opening pick under the screen.

– Feel free to skip the next three steps. Yes, you’re just that smooth.

– Grab a hairdryer or heat up an iOpener and gently warm the lower edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds to loosen the adhesive underneath. Time to soften things up!

– Place a suction cup firmly on the lower half of the front panel, right above the home button, and get ready to lift!

– Gently pull up on the suction cup, applying steady and even pressure to open up a tiny gap between the front panel and the back case.

– Carefully slide an opening pick or any thin pry tool just a few millimeters into the gap you’ve created.

– Gently slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of your phone, making your way toward the volume controls and the silent switch. You’re breaking the adhesive seal that’s keeping the display snugly in place.

– Pause just shy of the top left corner of the display. You’ve got this!

– Slip your tool back in at the lower right corner of the iPhone, then glide it smoothly around the corner and up the right side to gently loosen that adhesive holding things together.

– Take the suction cup and gently lift from the bottom edge of the display. Give it a little tug to start separating things, but don’t overdo it!

– Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle pull to detach it from the front panel.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the top edge of the display to carefully break through the last bit of adhesive holding it in place.

– Give the display assembly a gentle slide downwards—away from the top edge of your phone—to pop those sneaky little clips loose from the rear case.

– Pop that iPhone open by lifting the display up from the left side, just like you would with the cover of a book.

– Prop the display up against something sturdy to keep it out of your way while you tackle the phone repair.

– Unscrew the four Phillips (JIS) screws that are holding the lower display cable bracket to the logic board. Here’s the breakdown of the screw sizes:

– Keep those screws close and organized—it’s super important that each one goes back to its original spot when you’re putting things back together. Mixing up screws can lead to serious issues!

– Two 1.3 mm screws

– One 1.4 mm screw

– One 2.7 mm screw

– Take off the bracket that holds the lower display cable in place.

– Gently use the pointy end of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

– Give the connector cable a little bend upwards to keep it from accidentally touching the socket and powering up the phone while you work.

– Grab your trusty spudger or just your fingernail and gently pry that big lower display connector straight up from its socket. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to reconnect, simply press down on one side of the connector until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Just a heads up, avoid pressing down in the middle! If it’s even a tad misaligned, it could bend and lead to some unwanted drama. Stay sharp!

– Unplug the second lower display cable connector, the one sitting right behind the connector you just handled.

– Let’s get those pesky screws out! First up, grab your trusty tool and remove the two tri-point Y000 screws that are keeping the bracket snugly in place over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One 1.0 mm screw

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Time to free up that front panel sensor connector! Just pop off the bracket covering it.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to pop the front panel sensor assembly connector out of its socket.

– Gently take off the display assembly. Don’t rush, take your time with it.

– When you’re putting things back together, pause here if you’d like to swap out the adhesive around the display’s edges. It’s a nice touch for a clean finish!

– Take out the two Y000 screws holding down the rear camera connector cover bracket:

– One 1.4 mm screw

– One 1.4 mm (nonferrous) screw

– Heads up: this screw isn’t attracted to magnetized screwdrivers. Make sure to put it back in the right spot—using a magnetized screw here could mess with the compass.

– Pop that bracket off—easy does it!

– Unscrew the two fasteners that are holding down the rear camera module cover plate:

– One is a 1.8 mm Phillips screw

– And the other is a 2.7 mm standoff screw—it’s nonferrous, so no magnetic drama here

– Carefully pop off the cover plate hiding the rear camera module.

– Grab your trusty iFixit opening tool or use your fingernail to gently pop those two camera cable connectors up from their sockets. It’s easier than it sounds, so go ahead and give it a go!

– Grab your spudger and gently lift the rear-facing camera assembly from the top edge of your iPhone. Take it slow, and let that camera pop out like it’s ready for its close-up!

– Take out the rear camera assembly. It’s time to give that camera some breathing room!

– Time to tackle the upper left antenna! Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove these three screws:

– Two that measure 1.3 mm

– One that’s a bit longer at 3.1 mm

– Bust out your Phillips screwdriver and remove the 1.3 mm screw holding the antenna at the top edge of the rear case. Easy does it!