Author: Ralph Harris

– Make sure to power off your iPhone before you start taking it apart.

– Unscrew the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws located at the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Grab your opening pick and make a little mark 3 mm from the tip using a permanent marker. This helps keep your angles on point!

– Cover the iPhone’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up like a pro.

– If the suction cup refuses to stick in the next steps, no worries — just fold a sturdy piece of tape (think duct tape) into a little handle and use that to lift the screen instead.

– Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms—it’s like giving them a little stretch!

– Slide those arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone. Make sure they’re snug!

– Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of your iPhone, just above the home button—one on the front and the other on the back. They’ll be your trusty sidekicks!

– Give the cups a good squeeze to create a strong suction. You’re on your way to a successful repair!

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place.

– Now, twist that handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or keep going until you see those suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re staying in sync. If they start to drift out of alignment, just loosen them a tad and realign those arms like a pro!

– Warm up that iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.

– Bend the iOpener so it rests snugly on the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a lovely little gap for you.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has opened things up nicely, slip an opening pick under the screen.

– Feel free to skip the next three steps. You’ve got this!

– Grab your hairdryer or prep your iOpener, then warm up the bottom edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds. This helps loosen the sticky stuff holding things together, making your next steps way easier!

– Place a suction cup just above the home button on the lower half of the front panel to get a good grip.

– Gently tug on the suction cup with steady, consistent pressure until you see a little gap form between the front panel and rear case.

– Slip an opening pick or any slim tool a few millimeters into the gap you just created.

– Gently slide your pick along the edge, making your way up to the left side of the phone. Keep heading toward the volume buttons and the silent switch while carefully loosening the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck down.

– Pause once you reach the top left corner of the display.

– Gently slide your tool into the lower right corner of your iPhone, and carefully glide it around the corner, moving up the right side. This will help separate the adhesive, and you’ll be on your way to getting things fixed up!

– Carefully lift the bottom edge of the display by pulling up on the suction cup—easy does it!

– Give that little nub on the suction cup a gentle tug to pop it off from the front panel. You’ve got this!

– Take your opening pick and glide it along the top edge under the display—let’s gently persuade that last bit of adhesive to let go.

– Gently slide the display assembly down a bit (away from the phone’s top edge) to pop those clips loose from the rear case.

– Gently open the iPhone by lifting the display from the left side, just like flipping open the cover of a book.

– Prop the display up by leaning it against something sturdy so it stays put while you work your magic on the phone.

– Remove the four Phillips (JIS) screws holding the lower display cable bracket onto the logic board. Here’s what you’re dealing with:

– Keep your screws organized—mixing these up during reassembly could lead to a world of trouble. Trust me, your device will thank you.

– Two screws, 1.3 mm each

– One screw, 1.4 mm

– One screw, 2.7 mm

– Carefully remove the lower display cable bracket. Gently lift it away to avoid damaging anything nearby. Take your time, and remember, patience is key!

– Gently use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

– Carefully bend the connector cable upward just a bit to keep it from accidentally touching the socket and powering up the phone while you work.

– Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail, and gently pry the large lower display connector up from its socket. Be smooth and careful, and it’ll pop right off.

– When you’re ready to reconnect, simply press down on one side of the connector until you hear a satisfying click. Do the same on the other side, but keep the middle clear—pressing there could cause some damage if the connector isn’t lined up perfectly. Take your time, and it should click right into place.

– Go ahead and unplug the second lower display cable connector—it’s right behind the one you just disconnected. Keep it steady!

– Loosen and remove the two tri-point Y000 screws holding down the bracket that covers the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One 1.0 mm screw

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Take off the bracket that’s keeping the front panel sensor assembly connector under wraps.

– Gently pry open the front panel sensor assembly connector using the tip of a spudger or your trusty fingernail to disconnect it from its socket. You’ve got this!

– Take off the display assembly with care.

– When putting it back together, feel free to take a moment here if you want to swap out the adhesive around the display edges.

– Unscrew those four Y000 screws holding the bracket above the home/Touch ID sensor tight and secure. You’ve got this!

– When putting it all back together, just a gentle touch on those screws will do the trick—overdoing it might leave your home button feeling a bit cranky.

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Three 1.3 mm screws

– Carefully take off the bracket holding down the home/Touch ID sensor—it’s the little piece keeping everything in place!

– Gently pry up from the left edge of the home button cable connector to pop it out of its socket.

– Gently flip the display assembly over. Grab a hairdryer or your trusty iOpener, and warm up the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds. This will help loosen up the adhesive holding it in place, making the next step a whole lot easier.

– Grab an opening pick and gently ease it under the home/Touch ID sensor cable—you’re just coaxing the adhesive away from the back of the display. Go slow, no need to rush the magic.

– If your new screen didn’t come with a front camera and sensor cable, no worries! Just follow these steps to transfer them over.

– Give your shiny new replacement part a good comparison with the original—you might need to swap over some components or peel off any adhesive backings from the new part before you dive into the installation.

– To put everything back together, simply do the steps above in reverse order. Easy peasy!

– When you’re done, don’t forget to take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let’s keep our planet happy!

– Things didn’t go as smoothly as you’d hoped? No problem! Try some basic troubleshooting, or if you’re still stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for a helping hand.

– Shut down your iPhone before you get hands-on—no one likes surprises.

– Unscrew those two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws hanging out by the bottom edge of your iPhone. They’re small but mighty!

– Grab your opening pick and measure out 3 mm from the tip. Hit that spot with a permanent marker so you know exactly where to stop. Precision is the name of the game!

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over your iPhone’s screen until it’s fully covered. You’re basically creating a protective shield!

– If the suction cup isn’t playing nice in the next steps, no worries! Just fold a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape) into a handy handle and use that to lift the screen instead. You’ve got this!

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug backward to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Slide those arms over the left or right edge of your iPhone like a pro.

– Place the suction cups right above the home button on the bottom edge of your iPhone—one on the front and the other on the back.

– Squeeze those cups together to create a solid grip on your chosen spot!

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full circle or until the suction cups begin to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Warm up that iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro!

– Bend the iOpener so it rests on the bottom edge of your iPhone, giving it a cozy spot.

– Hold tight for a minute—this will let the adhesive relax and create a lovely little gap.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and there’s a nice space, gently slide an opening pick under the screen.

– Feel free to skip the next three steps; you’ve got this!

– Grab a hairdryer or whip up an iOpener, and gently warm the lower edge of your iPhone for around 90 seconds. This will help melt that pesky adhesive hiding underneath, making things a whole lot easier for you!

– Stick that suction cup right above the home button, lower half of the front panel. Time to get things moving!

– Gently pull up on the suction cup with steady, even pressure to open up just a tiny gap between the front panel and the rear case.

– Slide an opening pick or a thin pry tool carefully a few millimeters into that gap you’ve just created.

– Glide your pick around the corner, cruising up the left side of the phone toward the volume buttons and silent switch to loosen that stubborn adhesive holding the display.

– Pause when you reach the top left corner—don’t go any further just yet.

– Gently slide your tool into the lower right corner of the iPhone, then glide it around the corner and up the right side to break that adhesive loose. You’ve got this!

– Lift up on the suction cup slowly and carefully—let’s get that display moving without any drama.

– Gently pull on the small nub of the suction cup to lift it off the front panel. It’s like peeling off a sticker—smooth and satisfying!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the display at the top edge of the phone to break free the last bits of sticky adhesive holding it down.

– Gently nudge the display assembly downward, away from the phone’s top edge, to release those sneaky clips that are keeping it snug against the rear case.

– Start by gently lifting the display from the left side, just like opening a book. No rush, take it slow!

– Once it’s open, rest the display against something to keep it propped up. That way, you can work hands-free without worrying about it falling.

– Start by unscrewing four Phillips (JIS) screws holding the lower display cable bracket in place on the logic board. Here’s a quick rundown of what you’ll need to remove:

– While you’re at it, make sure to keep track of those screws! They’re all unique, and putting them back in the wrong spot could lead to some permanent damage. Trust us, it’s worth the effort to stay organized.

– Two 1.3 mm screws

– One 1.4 mm screw

– One 2.7 mm screw

– Time to detach the lower display cable bracket. Take your time, but be sure to get it out of the way so we can get to the good stuff next!

– Grab a spudger and gently use its pointed end to lift the battery connector out of its cozy little home on the logic board.

– Now, give that connector cable a slight upward bend to keep it from accidentally reconnecting and surprising you with some power during your repair adventure.

– Grab your trusty spudger or use a fingernail to gently lift the big bottom display connector from its socket. Just wiggle it up carefully, no need to rush!

– When you’re ready to snap that connector back into place, press down on one side until you hear a satisfying click. Then repeat the process on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle though; even a little misalignment can bend it, which could cause some serious damage.

– Unplug the second lower display cable connector right behind the one you just took off. Keep it steady!

– Take out the two tri-point Y000 screws holding down the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

– One 1.0 mm screw

– One 1.2 mm screw

– Pop off the bracket that’s hiding the front panel sensor assembly connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger—or even just your fingernail—to pop the front panel sensor assembly connector out of its socket. Take it slow, it’s easier than it looks!

– Gently detach the display assembly. Take your time, no rush!

– If you’re thinking of swapping out the adhesive around the display edges, now’s the perfect moment. Pause and make that change if needed before putting everything back together.

– Let’s get that earpiece speaker bracket off! Unscrew these five little guys holding it in place:

– Two 1.8 mm screws

– One 2.3 mm screw

– One 2.4 mm screw

– One 2.8 mm screw

– Take off the bracket covering the earpiece speaker—you’re almost there!

– Carefully use the flat end of a spudger to pop the front-facing camera out of its slot.

– Gently nudge the camera ribbon cable to the side so you can easily access the earpiece speaker hiding underneath.

– Lift out the earpiece speaker—nice and easy, no rush.

– Carefully bend the camera and its ribbon cable down towards the bottom of the iPhone. This will give you a clear view and access to the components hiding beneath.

– Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener, and gently warm up the top front of the display for about a minute to loosen up that adhesive holding the sensors in place.

– Gently slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable and carefully lift the sensor out of its spot.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the proximity sensor flex cable and give it a little lift to pop the sensor out of its cozy home. Nice and easy!

– Carefully slide the sharp edge of your opening tool underneath the flex cable of the camera assembly, right opposite the front-facing camera.

– Gently lift to separate the flex cable from the display’s back, taking care not to damage anything in the process.

– Gently slide the spudger under the same spot of the flex cable you worked on earlier.

– Keep working your way down the flex cable, carefully easing the spudger under the gold earpiece speaker contacts to finish the job.

– Line up your new part with the original one—sometimes you’ll need to move over a few bits or peel off adhesive layers before fitting it in.

– Put your device back together by reversing the steps above.

– Got e-waste? Drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.

– If things didn’t go as planned, swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips, or if you’re stuck, you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Make sure your iPhone is totally powered down before you start popping it open.

– Unscrew the two tiny 3.5 mm pentalobe screws hanging out at the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark your opening pick with a permanent marker to keep things on point.

– Cover the iPhone screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape—think of it as giving your phone a shiny new armor.

– If the suction cup refuses to cooperate in the next steps, fold a sturdy piece of tape (duct tape is a classic go-to), make yourself a makeshift handle, and use that to lift the screen.

– Give that blue handle a gentle pull backward to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free.

– Slide those arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone—whichever feels right.

– Aim the suction cups right above the home button near the bottom edge: one on the front, one on the back.

– Squeeze the cups together to get a solid hold on your device.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you notice the suction cups beginning to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to ensure they stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.

– Warm up the iOpener and slip it through the Anti-Clamp’s arms like threading a needle.

– Fold the iOpener so it cozies up to the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it a minute—let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you.

– Once the Anti-Clamp opens things up, slide an opening pick under the screen and work your magic.

– Go ahead and skip the next three steps. You’ve got this!

– Grab a hairdryer or an iOpener and gently warm up the lower edge of your iPhone for about 90 seconds. This will help loosen up the adhesive underneath, making the next step a bit easier.

– Place a suction cup near the bottom half of the front panel, just above the home button, and give it a gentle press. You’re almost there!

– Give that suction cup a good tug with steady pressure to open up a little space between the front panel and the rear case. You’re doing great!

– Slide in an opening pick or a thin pry tool just a couple of millimeters into that gap you’ve created. Keep it gentle!

– Take your pick and cruise around the corner, then head up the left side of the phone. You’re aiming for those volume buttons and the silent switch—keep breaking up that stubborn adhesive holding the display.

– Pause when you reach the top left corner of the screen. Nice work so far!

– Slide your tool back into the lower right corner of the iPhone, and gently glide it around the corner and up the right side of the device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Give that suction cup a gentle tug upward to start lifting the bottom edge of the display.

– Give a gentle tug on the little tab of the suction cup to pop it off the front panel.

– Gently slide an opening pick under the display at the top edge of your phone to break free the last stubborn bits of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the display assembly downwards, away from the top edge of your phone, to pop those clips free from the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Pop open the iPhone by lifting the display from the left side, like you’re opening a book. Nice and easy.

– Propping the display up against something will keep it steady while you work. It’s like giving your phone a little support while you do your magic.

– Take out the four Phillips (JIS) screws holding down the lower display cable bracket on the logic board. Here’s the lineup:

– Keep track of every screw as you go—mixing them up during reassembly can cause serious trouble.

– Two screws measuring 1.3 mm

– One screw measuring 1.4 mm

– One screw measuring 2.7 mm

– Time to lift out that lower display cable bracket. Keep it classy, keep it steady.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the battery connector up from its spot on the logic board. Like giving it a little high five to say, ‘Hey, take a break!’

– Lift the connector cable just a bit so it stays out of the way—and doesn’t sneak back into the socket and juice up your phone when you’re mid-repair.

– Grab a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently pry the large lower display connector straight up from its socket. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reconnect, just press down on one side of the connector until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If it’s even a smidge misaligned, you could bend the connector and that would be a total bummer. Keep it straight and snug!

– Unplug the second lower display cable connector, which is right behind the one you just removed in the previous step.

– Time to remove those two tri-point Y000 screws holding the bracket over the front panel sensor connector:

– One screw that’s 1.0 mm

– One screw that’s 1.2 mm

– Pop off the bracket that’s hanging out over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

– Gently pop off the front panel sensor assembly connector using either the tip of your spudger or your fingernail. Easy does it—no need to flex those muscles here!

– Take off the display assembly carefully.

– When putting it back together, this is a great spot to pause if you want to swap out the adhesive lining the edges of the display.

– Let’s get those five Phillips screws out of the way to free the earpiece speaker bracket! You’ve got this:

– Two tiny 1.8 mm screws

– One slightly bigger 2.3 mm screw

– One 2.4 mm screw that’s ready to be removed

– And one 2.8 mm screw to finish the job!

– Take off the earpiece speaker bracket with care. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the front-facing camera out of its cozy little home.

– With care, give that camera ribbon cable a little bend to the side so you can make way for the earpiece speaker hanging out below.

– Double-check your new part against the original one—you might need to move over some leftover components or peel off any sticky backings before you pop the new part in.

– Now, to put everything back together, just follow those steps you did earlier, but in reverse. It’s like a fun puzzle!

– Got some e-waste? Don’t just toss it—take it to a certified recycler. It’s good for the planet!

– Things not going as planned? No worries! Head over to our Answers community for some troubleshooting magic. And remember, if you get stuck, you can always schedule a repair.