Author: Ralph Harris

– Hold down the wake button and the volume down button together to power off your phone. Easy does it!

– Grab your Pentalobe screwdriver to loosen those charging port screws. If you’re having a hard time opening the phone, a little heat from a heat gun will make it way easier. Just warm things up a bit and you’ll be good to go!

– Loosen and remove the 5 screws shown in the picture below using a tripoint #Y000 screwdriver.

– Keep in mind, these screws are all different sizes, so make sure to remember where each one belongs.

– Carefully disconnect the battery, LCD screen, digitizer, and ear speaker connectors using a spudger.

– Loosen 3 Y000 screws and gently warm up the flex cable with a heat gun to easily pop out the ear speaker.

– Unscrew the two Phillips #PH00 screws holding the metal plate in place, then lift the plate off and gently disconnect the rear camera connectors.

– Heads up: these screws aren’t twins—each one’s got its own vibe, so keep track of where each goes!

– Gently pop off all the connectors on the motherboard using your trusty spudger—like unplugging little lego blocks.

– Remove the three Phillips #PH00 screws holding down the motherboard. Now you can carefully lift it out. Take your time, and don’t rush—motherboards like a smooth exit!

– First things first, let’s get those 8 pesky screws on the retaining plate undone! Once they’re out, gently lift the plate off, but be super careful not to damage that tiny connector snugging up right under the taptic engine.

– Next up, it’s time to say goodbye to the loud speaker and the taptic engine. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and carefully pull out the four battery adhesives. Once they’re free, the battery will be ready to come out. Easy, right?

– Give that front-facing camera a little warm-up with a heat gun—it’ll loosen right up and pop off with no trouble.

– Unscrew the 4 screws hanging out on the frame as shown. They’re just waiting to be set free.

– Warm up the charging port flex cable a bit—think spa day for your device—then gently lift it out like a pro.

– Loosen and take out those 7 screws holding the Wi-Fi flex cable in place. You’ve got this!

– Give that flex cable a little warmth with a heat gun; it’ll make popping it off a breeze!

– Unscrew 3 screws holding the power button in place. It’s a quick step, just twist them off.

– Warm up the flex cable with a heat gun to make it easier to remove. A little heat goes a long way!

– Hop into Settings and tap on Sounds & Haptics. Smooth sailing so far.

– With your screen lit up, ring the phone from another working device. You’ll spot the decline and answer buttons popping up as expected.

– Now, shut off the screen and call the phone again. If it’s not reacting at all, tap the power button to wake the screen—bam, the decline and answer buttons are back in action.

– Looks like some of the circuits responsible for the baseband wake signal decided to take a nap. Time to open up the phone! Start by disconnecting the battery, then carefully remove the display assembly and take out the motherboard.

– Secure the motherboard in the PCB Holder. Use a Hot Air Gun set to 200℃ with an airflow of 3 to warm it up. Gently peel off the heat dissipation sticker from the back of the motherboard.

– Fire up your bitmap software and find BB_TO_PMU_PCIE_HOST_WAKE_L. Since the usual wake signal circuits are giving us trouble, let’s borrow the wake signal from the WiFi circuit to get things moving.

– Next, locate WLAN_TO_PMU_HOST_WAKE. You’ll connect PP101_E-1 (the baseband wake signal test point) to PP7611_W-1 (the WiFi wake signal test point) by bridging them with a jumper wire.

– First things first, carefully scrape off the insulating coating on those two test points. Next, spread a little solder paste onto the two bonding pads. Fire up your soldering iron to 365℃ and give those pads a nice tinning with the solder paste.

– Now, connect PP101_E-1 to PP7611_W-1 using a 0.02mm enameled copper wire. Keep it steady and precise!

– Brush that wire with the UV Curable Solder Mask—give it a nice even coat, like sunscreen for your circuit.

– Time to put your phone back together and give it a spin. Try it out with the screen off first—if everything’s working, you’ve cleared the fault! If not, no worries. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Alright, let’s pop that motherboard in and give it a quick test. The phone powers on just like it should.

– Plug in the charger and you’ll see the lightning bolt icon pop up. But heads up—the ammeter shows there’s no charging current flowing.

– Alright, let’s get started by separating the upper and lower layers. Place your motherboard on the heating platform and fit a screw into the hole on the motherboard. This way, we’ll be ready to remove the upper layer easily when it’s time.

– Now, give your motherboard a quick 2-minute heat session on the platform at 165℃. Let the heat do its magic and soften things up for a smooth repair.

– Pop your multimeter into diode mode and test Pin 2 and Pin 3 on battery connector J3200. If your readings look normal, you’re off to a good start.

– Next up, check TIGRIS_LX between charging IC U3300 and Q3350. If the reading is 250, that’s not what we want—it should be 0. Looks like TIGRIS_LX has gone on vacation and left an open circuit behind.

– First up, let’s get that upper layer snugly attached to the PCB holder. Don’t forget to use some high-temperature tape to secure those components around it—safety first!

– Time to bring out the heat! Grab your QUICK 990AD Hot Air Gun, set it to a cozy 300℃ with an airflow of 3, and let the magic happen.

– Next, we need to bid farewell to the black adhesive that’s hanging around the two inductors. A clean workspace is a happy workspace!

– Once that’s taken care of, let’s add a little love with some paste flux on those two inductors. Crank up the heat again with the Quick 990AD Hot Air Gun, this time to 360℃ and airflow of 3, and watch the wonders unfold!

– Gently lift the two inductors using your pry knife—easy does it!

– Next, spread some medium-temperature solder paste onto the two bonding pads. Then, carefully tin those pads with your soldering iron set to 365℃.

– Finally, clean off any black adhesive lingering on the bonding pads to keep things tidy.

– Apply a little more paste flux to those bonding pads to keep things moving smoothly.

– Position the two inductors just right, then grab your trusty QUICK 990AD Hot Air Gun. Set it to 360℃ and airflow 3, and solder away with ease.

– Once you’re done, clean up with a PCB cleaner. Now, let’s check out the diode mode measurement of TIGRIS_LX between U3300 and Q3350. It should read 0 – that’s totally normal!

– Alright, it’s time to bring together the upper and lower layers with the testing fixture for a little quality check! First things first, give that bonding pad a good clean.

– Next up, let’s get those layers connected to the testing fixture. You’re doing great!

– First, connect the charging port flex cable with care.

– Next up, hook up the screen and battery to get things powered up.

– Finally, plug in the charging cable. If your ammeter reads around 860mA, congrats—that means your phone is charging just right!

– All right, time to get those two layers to stick together! First, let’s give the lower layer a fresh set of solder balls. Pop it into your reballing mold and line up the BGA Reballing Stencil over it.

– Set the mold on the base—the magnetic setup keeps everything snug. Now, spread some low-temp solder paste over the stencil. Wipe off any extra paste with a lint-free wipe, and you’re good to go!

– Once you’ve reballing done, carefully lift the mold off the base and remove that reballing stencil. Set the lower layer on the heating platform at 165℃ and let the magic happen. Once the solder balls are fully formed, turn off the heating platform.

– Let it cool for 5 minutes—patience pays off! Now, add a bit of BGA Paste Flux to the bonding pad and get that upper layer into position.

– Power the heating platform back on, and bring the temperature back to 165℃. Keep it heating for another 2 minutes to make sure everything’s set.

– Power down and give it a cool 5-minute break. Then carefully lift the motherboard off the heating platform. Take a close look to ensure those two layers are soldered together just right.

– Time to put it all back together and see if it’s working! Reinstall the motherboard and reconnect the display assembly.

– Plug in the charging cable. If you see the lightning bolt on the screen and the ammeter shows a normal charging current, you’re all set—the issue is fixed!

– We’ve got a phone with a shattered screen and a squished frame. Pop in a fresh display assembly and fire it up. Everything powers on like a champ. Both cameras are snapping, and WiFi is cruising.

– Jump into Sounds & Haptics > Ringtone. Pick a classic ringtone—crickets from the speaker, but plug in some headphones and the sound is rolling.

– At first glance, the audio circuit seems to be behaving. The real culprit? The bottom speaker isn’t doing its thing. Unscrew the display assembly and unhook the battery.

– Unplug the charging port flex cable. Time for some detective work: check Pin 1 and Pin 45 on the DOCK connector using diode mode. If you get a reading of 5, the bottom speaker is all good.

– Keep going and measure Pin 1 and Pin 45 on the motherboard connector J6400. Pin 45 should show a value of 602 — that’s a good sign.

– Pin 1 is showing ‘OL’ though, which means something’s off. Time to check further!

– Looks like Pin 1’s circuit decided to take a little break—it’s open-circuited. Pin 1 on connector J6400 links up to Pin 2 on the speaker amplifier IC U4900 through Pin S162 on the cylinders around the lower layer’s edge.

– Next up, let’s give that circuit a thorough once-over. Start by unplugging the flex cables from the motherboard and removing the motherboard itself. Secure it in the Holder, then heat it up with a Hot Air Gun set to 360℃ and airflow at 65.

– After waiting a minute, gently start prying up the upper layer, taking it step by step. Pro tip: ensure you pry at just the right moment when the tin on the cylinders has melted. It’s pretty clear there are several pins missing from the upper layer, including the S166 pin from the NFC circuit. You’ve got this!

– Looks like our phone took a little tumble, leading to some quirky soldering on the motherboard and some pins deciding to go AWOL. No worries, though! Most of those missing pins are just ground pins, so we can let them be. Just make sure to give some love to Pin S166 with a bit of jumper wiring.

– Time to tidy up! Grab some rosin-soaked Solder Wick and gently remove the tins around the cylinders on the lower layer and the bonding pads on the upper layer. After that, give everything a good clean with some PCB Cleaner to keep it fresh!

– Grab your multimeter and set it to diode mode. Hit Pin S162 on those cylinders—reading 570? Nice, that’s totally in range. Next up, Pin S163? Another 570, looking good! At this point, it’s pretty clear that Pin 1’s open circuit is just some weak soldering around the edge of the lower layer cylinders.

– Alright, time to get that motherboard into the testing kit. Pop on the extension flex cable for the display assembly, then snap in the charging port flex cable and the display assembly. Smooth sailing so far!

– Hook up the battery connector to the DC Power Supply. Use tweezers to short Pin 9 of J4300 to ground—this tricks the system into thinking you’ve pressed the power button. Check the ammeter; if the current looks normal, you’re all set!

– Head over to Settings > Sounds & Haptics > Ringtone. Pick a default ringtone that suits your vibe. The sound should be working fine now.

– All right, we’ve got confirmation! The top and bottom layers are good to go. The issue was caused by some not-so-great soldering on the cylinders. Let’s fix that by properly soldering those two layers together. Before you start, don’t forget to treat Pin S166 with a jumper wire.

– Heat up your soldering iron to 360°C and get ready to apply some solder to the Via. Take a length of 0.02mm enameled copper wire, tin it, and solder one end to the Via. Now you’re cooking!

– First, grab some PCB Cleaner and give the area a good clean. Once that’s done, grab some UV Curable Solder Mask and apply it to the soldered area. Pop it under the UV Dryer Lamp for about 2 minutes to let the upper layer solidify.

– Next, get the other end into position, and secure the lower layer to the PCB Holder. Place the BGA Reballing Stencil in the right spot, and then evenly smear the Soldering Paste on the stencil using the BGA Scraper. Use a lint-free cloth to wipe off any extra soldering paste.

– Now, it’s time to heat it all up with the Hot Air Gun. Set it to 350℃ and an air flow of 35. This will help all the solder balls solidify nicely. After 2 minutes, carefully remove the BGA reballing stencil. Give it another heat session with the Hot Air Gun to make sure those solder balls are perfectly formed.

– Now that you’ve tackled the disassembly, it’s time to put everything back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and you’ll be all set. If you run into any snags, feel free to schedule a repair for some extra support.

– Start by placing some high-temperature tape on the components surrounding the charging IC to keep them safe from accidental solder bridges or heat mishaps.

– Next, spread a bit of flux paste around the charging IC to prep it for the next step.

– Set your QUICK 990 AD Vertical Wind Hot Air Gun to 330℃ with an airflow of 3. Hold the hot air gun about 5mm to 10mm above the charging IC and heat it gently for 15 to 20 seconds. Then carefully pry up the charging IC and you’re good to go!

– Next up, grab some medium-temp solder paste and apply it to the bonding pad. Heat things up with your trusty QUICK 990 AD Vertical Wind Hot Air Gun at 280℃, air flow setting 3. Let the magic happen!

– While that’s heating, take your Soldering Iron set to 360℃ and clean those solder joints on the bonding pad. When you’re done, give the pad a good cleaning with a rosin-soaked solder wick to make sure it’s all nice and fresh.

– Finish up by cleaning the whole thing with some PCB Cleaner. Nice and shiny!

– Alright, let’s get those solder joints on the back of the charging IC shining! Start by adding a bit of medium-temp solder paste to the bonding pad on the backside. Then, give that pad a nice clean with your soldering iron set to 360℃.

– For an extra touch of cleanliness, feel free to add some paste flux. Once you’ve finished, give it another clean using PCB Cleaner.

– Now, let’s dive into the reballing fun! Position your BGA Reballing Stencil just right, and then apply some medium-temp solder paste with the BGA Scraper. You’re doing great!

– Grab some facial tissue and dab on the solder paste. Give it a gentle wrap—think of it as drying off after a swim. We want the paste nice and dry before moving forward.

– A slightly soggy solder paste can cause unwanted connections during reballing, so let’s avoid that drama. Spread a medium-temp solder paste smoothly across the stencil, and swipe away any extra with a lint-free cloth. Use tweezers to press the BGA Reballing Stencil firmly into place.

– Now, fire up the QUICK 990 AD Vertical Wind Hot Air Gun—set it to 300℃ and air flow at 3. This will lock in those solder balls perfectly. Solid connections make for happy repairs!

– Put your device back together by following these steps in reverse—easy peasy!

– If you hit a snag or want a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us.

– Hit the power button to wake the phone up. It boots up fine, but the touchscreen isn’t playing along and stays unresponsive.

– Power down the phone and carefully open it up. Disconnect the battery and take out the display assembly.

– Next, remove the motherboard. First order of business: check the Touch ID FPC connector J5800. Use diode mode to measure J5800. Pin 22 reads OL, which means the circuit tied to Pin 22 is open and needs attention.

– Alright, folks! We’ve got an inductor, FL5893, on the circuit. Let’s kick things off with FL5893.

– First up, carefully grab those tweezers and remove the sponge around J5800. Now, let’s do some detective work! Switch to diode mode and measure the voltage between Pin 1 and Pin 2 of FL5893. If you see a reading of 0, great news—FL5893 is in tip-top shape!

– Next, we notice that the circuit runs over to the third space PCB. Time to take apart the motherboard for a closer look at that PCB. Gently place the motherboard on the specialized Heating Platform. Once the temperature hits a cozy 160℃, use those tweezers to lift the upper layer. You’ve got this!

– It looks like we’ve got a situation here! A bunch of solder joints on the third space PCB have decided to take a permanent vacation, and the motherboard is sporting some serious warping. Given these unfortunate circumstances, it seems like the motherboard is beyond repair. But don’t worry, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by securing the upper layer of the motherboard onto the PCB Holder. Don’t forget to use some High-temperature Tape to keep those components cozy and secure.

– First up, let’s tackle that pesky black adhesive around the PMU. Grab your Hot Air Gun, set it to a toasty 280℃ with an air flow of 3, and gently warm it up. Then, with a specialized knife in hand, carefully slice away the black adhesive around the chip like a pro!

– Tip: Be extra careful when removing the black adhesive, especially since the PMU components are so close. We don’t want any surprises like knocking something off the board!

– Next, grab your Hot Air Gun and heat up the PMU to 330°C with an airflow of 5. While you’re heating it, set one lever of the tweezers in place. After about 15 seconds, when the solder starts to melt, quickly pry up the chip with the other lever. Tip: Timing is key here – get that chip at the perfect moment! If you don’t, the bonding pad might get damaged. Keep your eyes on the prize!

– Alright, let’s give that bonding pad a good scrub! Start by spreading some mid-temperature Solder Paste on it. Grab your Hot Air Gun and heat it up to a cozy 280℃. While that’s happening, take your trusty Soldering Iron set at 360℃ and clean up the bonding pad.

– Keep the cleaning party going by using some rosin-soaked Solder Wick to polish the bonding pad. After that, a quick spritz of PCB Cleaner will do wonders! Just a heads up: if you notice some bonding pads from those empty pins getting a bit loose during the cleaning, don’t sweat it! That’s totally normal. We can just leave them be.

– Keep peeling off that black adhesive from around the bonding pad. Heads up: when you pry up the chip, some nearby components might come loose. No worries! Next, let’s get those little guys back on by re-soldering. Start by applying some Paste Flux to their bonding pads, then carefully add solder with your Soldering Iron.

– Now, line up the components in their spots. Once they’re sitting pretty, use your Hot Air Gun set to 330℃ with airflow at 3 to solder them securely.

– Give that bonding pad a quick once-over before soldering the chip, and finish up with a clean sweep using PCB Cleaner to keep things spotless.

– When you peel off the black adhesive, sometimes the insulation varnish on the PCB decides to come along for the ride. No worries! Grab those tweezers, dip them in UV Curable Solder Mask, and dab it onto the exposed spot. Hit it with the UV Dryer Lamp for 5 minutes to seal the deal.

– Ready to wrap things up? Just retrace your steps and put everything back together. Nice work! If you need a hand with those tricky bits, you can always schedule a repair.

–

– Start by checking out the motherboard for any cosmetic issues. Make sure it’s looking good, with no deformations or water damage.

– Now, let’s get the motherboard into place and connect the battery and display assembly. Power up the phone and follow the activation process. Tap the icon at the bottom right corner. The serial number should appear normally on the screen, but if you see ‘No Service’ in the top right corner and no IMEI number on the screen, we might have a little extra work ahead.

– First things first, pop off the display assembly, disconnect the battery, and carefully lift out the motherboard.

– Next, place that motherboard on the specialized Heating Platform. Power it up and crank the temperature up to a comfy 150℃. We’re getting ready to work some magic!

– Once the platform hits a toasty 150℃, grab those tweezers and lift off the top layer like a pro.

– Next, peel the bottom layer off the platform, then go ahead and power down the heating platform.

– Let’s get those layers together! Start by attaching the upper layer to the lower layer on the PCB Holder.

– Next up, grab your Soldering Iron and crank it up to a cozy 360℃. Give those edges of the upper layer and the bonding pad a little TLC with some rosin-soaked Solder Wick to clean up those pads.

– Once you’re done, give everything a good spritz with PCB Cleaner to make it shine!

– First, gently separate the upper layer from the lower layer of the PCB Holder. Once they’ve parted ways, attach both layers to the test fixture like a pro!

– Now, let’s connect the display assembly and get things powered up! Link the battery connector to the Power Supplier, then give that power button a friendly press. Your system should respond and recognize your button press like it’s been waiting for this moment!

– The phone starts up with the activation process. Tap the icon at the bottom right corner. The serial number shows up on the screen just fine, but there’s no IMEI number to be found. Also, you’ll notice a No Service warning hanging out in the top-right corner.

– Next, check the signal-related pins on the bonding pad using diode mode measurement. Everything looks solid here—no issues detected.

– Then, run diode mode checks on the capacitors connected to the power supply circuit of U_PMIC_E. Again, all clear with no problems found.

– Let’s swap in a fresh U_PMIC_E and check how it performs. First up, slap some High-temperature Tape on U_MDM_E and the WiFi module to keep them safe.

– Use a Hot Air Gun set to 330℃ with airflow level 3 to carefully remove the U_PMIC_E.

– Keep slathering on that Solder Paste and Paste Flux onto the bonding pad like it’s frosting on a cake!

– Give the bonding pad a little spa treatment with your Soldering Iron set to a toasty 360℃—it’ll thank you later.

– Now, let’s keep the heat coming! Use that Hot Air Gun at 330℃ and help the bonding pad get squeaky clean with some Solder Wick.

– Let’s kick things off by giving that board a good clean with PCB Cleaner afterwards. Nice and tidy!

– You’ll notice some pesky black adhesive hanging around the bonding pad of U_PMIC_E. Grab those tweezers and gently remove it before we dive into soldering.

– Once that’s sorted, it’s time to show that bonding pad some love with a bit of Paste Flux. Position your brand new U_PMIC_E just right and get ready to solder it down with a Hot Air Gun set to 330℃ and air flow at 3. You’ve got this!

– After the soldering magic is done, give everything another clean with PCB Cleaner and don’t forget to peel off the High-temperature Tape. Almost there!

– Place the top and bottom layers onto the test fixture. Hook up the back glass assembly and connect the battery connector to the DC Power Supply.

– Plug the iPhone into your computer using the USB cable. Use iTunes to restore the phone. When finished, unplug the USB cable, power supply, and back glass assembly.

– Next, reinstall the display assembly. Connect the battery connector to the power supply. The phone will then go through the activation process.

– Tap the icon at the bottom right corner. The serial number and IMEI should appear as usual. The signal bars in the top-right corner return to normal. Now we can confirm the No Service issue was caused by U_PMIC_E.

– Alright, time to bring it all together! Start by soldering the two layers. Attach the lower layer to your iPhone X specialized reballing mold.

– Next, cover the lower layer with the matching reballing stencil. Make sure it fits snugly.

– Now, grab some low-temp solder paste and spread a thin layer over the stencil. Be careful not to overdo it! Use a lint-free wipe to clean off any excess paste. Once you’ve finished, gently remove the reballing stencil. You should see an even and smooth layer of solder paste. Perfection!

– Place the lower layer carefully onto the heating platform. Power it up and set the temperature to 150℃. As the solder paste starts to melt, you’ll notice the solder balls taking shape. Once done, power off the platform and let the lower layer cool down for 10 minutes.

– Next, apply some BGA Paste Flux to the bonding pad. Take your time—this part is crucial!

– Now, get the upper layer into place and fire up the heating platform.

– Once the platform hits 150℃, keep it heating for another minute. When the time’s up, turn off the platform and let the motherboard cool for 10 minutes.

– Let’s put this phone back together and see how it performs! Powering it on should lead us right into the activation journey. Just tap that little icon in the bottom right corner. You should see the serial number and IMEI number pop up without any issues on the screen. Look up at those signal bars in the upper-right corner—they should be smiling again. Hooray! The No Service problem is all fixed up!

– Looks like our iPhone X has taken a tumble and is refusing to play nice! After a restore, it’s still throwing a fit and won’t activate. Let’s give it another shot with 3uTools.

– First up, connect that trusty phone to your computer and launch 3uTools. Click on ‘Activate Now’ and then hit ‘Start.’

– Hang tight! The activation process usually takes just a few minutes, but if after about 20 minutes you’re still stuck on the activation screen, don’t worry—it’s not you, it’s the phone. It’s still being a bit stubborn!

– Alright, time to carefully separate the motherboard for a closer look.

– Place the motherboard on the 165 °C Heating Platform and let it warm up. Once it hits 165 °C, gently lift the logic board and signal board off using tweezers.

– Wave goodbye to that old thermal grease using a Sculpture Knife. Super satisfying.

– Once things are separated, you might notice some pads have gone AWOL. No worries—grab some jumper wires and bring those useful pads back to the party.

– Secure the logic board in the holder, crank up your Soldering Iron to 365°C, and clear off the tin from the bonding pad with some Solder Wick. Smooth sailing.

– Slap on some Solder Paste onto those bare pads and heat things up with a Hot Air Gun set to 340 °C to get that tin flowing. Give the bonding pad a nice clean with PCB Cleaner and don’t forget to add a touch of Paste Flux for good measure.

– Next up, grab your trusty Soldering Iron and attach some 0.02 mm copper wires to the bonding pad. Make sure those wires are snug as a bug – we want them firmly soldered in place!

– Time for another round of PCB Cleaner to tidy things up! Then, using your Tweezers and Sculpture Knife, gently curl those copper wires to form neat little pads.

– Spread a layer of solder mask over the bonding pad to secure the copper wires, then let the UV lamp work its magic for 5 minutes to harden the mask.

– Gently scrape off the extra solder mask with your sculpture knife to reveal the copper wires underneath.

– Now, use a soldering iron set to 365 °C and a solder wick to remove the tin from the bonding pad. Finish up by cleaning the pad with some PCB cleaner.

– Snap that signal board onto the Reballing Platform and line up the reballing stencil so it’s sitting pretty.

– Slip in a metal plate to block any solder paste from sneaking into the motherboard—no surprise messes here.

– Spread a smooth, even coat of low-temp solder paste like you’re icing a cake. Keep it neat and steady!

– Place the motherboard on the 165°C heating platform and let it soak up some cozy warmth.

– Once the solder balls have made their grand entrance, power down and let the signal board chill out. Dab on some paste flux, then line up the logic board with the signal board like puzzle pieces.

– Give it another minute of heat at 165°C, then switch off and let the motherboard cool off. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Ready to bring your device back to life? Just work your way back through the steps, and you’ll be powered up in no time. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.

– The phone kept rebooting nonstop, which is always frustrating! After some testing, we discovered the culprit was a faulty earpiece flex cable. We swapped in a fresh new one, and voilà, the restart issue was fixed! But, there’s a little twist—Face ID stopped working and True Tone went AWOL. Looks like we’ll need to tweak a bit more to get everything back on track. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– If Face ID isn’t working because the earpiece flex cable got replaced or damaged, don’t panic! This issue now has a solution, and you won’t need the original flex cable anymore.

– First things first, we need to jailbreak your iPhone. Plug your phone into your computer, fire up the software, and hit ‘Start’. Your phone will automatically enter recovery mode. Next, manually put the phone into DFU mode. Once that’s done, your jailbreak is good to go!

– Time to plug in! Hook up your phone to the J-BOX, then connect the J-BOX to your computer. Hit up the ‘Face’ option and start reading those data vibes.

– Looks like the distance sensor and ambient light sensor are not quite in sync with the motherboard’s data. That’s a telltale sign the earpiece flex cable got swapped out, and that’s why Face ID’s taking a nap.

– Kick things off by launching the JCID Repair Assistant. Hit that ‘Detect’ button and watch the magic unfold as it unlocks automatically.

– Next up, we’re going to use the V1S to write the data. Plug in your V1S and your phone to the computer. Grab a shiny new JC earpiece flex cable and connect it to the V1S. You’re on the right track!

– Fire up the JCID Repair Assistant again. Hit “Connect” and let’s get testing.

– Tap “Activate FPC” and carefully attach the flex cable to your phone.

– Alright, first things first, we’re going to pop in the new flex cable with the data written on it. So, take apart the phone and unplug those flex cables. Carefully remove the display assembly and disconnect the earpiece flex cable. Now, just install the fresh earpiece flex cable, easy peasy.

– Next up, reconnect the display assembly and put everything back together. Power the phone on and test it out. You’ll see that True Tone is back and running smoothly. Plus, Face ID is good to go and ready for setup!