Author: Ralph Harris

– First, let’s give that motherboard a quick once-over. Make sure it’s looking nice and straight, with no signs of water damage or warping.

– Now, let’s get that motherboard back into place and see if the phone powers up. If it’s still not turning on, we’ll need to dig a bit deeper.

– Try connecting your phone to your computer and restore it via iTunes. If you hit error 4014, it’s time to call in the pros. If you’re stuck, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

– Alright, folks! Based on those sneaky iTunes error codes, it looks like we might be dealing with a pesky NAND flash chip or some circuits that just aren’t playing nice. Let’s kick things off by checking out the power supply of that NAND chip. Grab your trusty battery connector and plug it into the DC Power Supply. Use some tweezers to power up the motherboard and get the party started!

– Now, let’s get our voltage measurement game on for the NAND power supply. We’re looking for those golden numbers: 0.9V, 1.8V, and 3.0V. If you see those, you’re in the clear!

– Time for a little upgrade! Let’s swap in a shiny new NAND flash chip and see if it brings our device back to life. Place that motherboard on a specialized Heating Platform and don’t forget to remove the sponge cover first. Fire up the heating platform and dial the temperature up to a cozy 155℃.

– As the platform heats up to a sizzling 155℃, take a deep breath and gently grab the upper layer with tweezers. Quick tip: be extra cautious while separating that motherboard, it’s a delicate dance!

– With those solder balls on the third space PCB staying put, we’re in luck! We can skip the reballing when we put those two layers back together. Now, attach the upper layer to the PCB Holder. Time to heat things up with the Hot Air Gun at 280℃, airflow set to 3, to peel off that sticker. Keep that heat coming to loosen up the black adhesive around the NAND.

– Next up, crank that Hot Air Gun to 340℃, airflow at 5. Now, gently pry up the NAND flash chip with care. You’ve got this!

– Set the NAND flash chip down in the cozy staging area of your PCIE repair programmer. Hit that ‘Backup Kernal Data’ button to save the chip’s data. Don’t worry, your precious backup will be snugly saved on your computer.

– Pop out the old NAND flash chip and get the new one ready on your workspace. Hit ‘Write Kernel Data’ in your software, then pick the data file you saved earlier. The software takes care of transferring your backup to the fresh chip—just sit back and watch the magic happen.

– After you’re done, hit ‘Query Info’ to see the basic details of your new chip pop up on the screen. Once that’s checked off, carefully remove the new NAND Flash chip. Next up: time to get that NAND flash chip reballed. Position the BGA Reballing Stencil just right, then spread some medium-temp solder paste evenly over it.

– Use your Hot Air Gun set to 300℃ with an airflow of 3 to heat things up so all the solder balls form perfectly. When that’s done, give it a minute to cool down and settle.

– Peel the NAND flash chip off the stencil gently. Give it another quick heat to make sure those solder balls are nicely shaped. Now, let’s get ready to solder the NAND. Before you start, apply a little medium-temp solder paste to the bonding pad using a Soldering Iron at 365℃.

– After soldering, clean the bonding pad carefully. Use Solder Wick to remove any leftover solder, then finish up with a thorough cleanup using PCB Cleaner.

– Keep the Hot Air Gun going at 300℃ with a flow of 3, and let it work its magic. Once that’s done, remove any leftover black adhesive on the bonding pad. Now it’s time to apply some fresh paste flux to the pad and get ready for the next step.

– Place the new NAND flash chip in position, making sure it’s snug. Use the Hot Air Gun at 330℃ with a flow of 4 to solder it in place. Nice and steady, and you’ll be all set.

– Alright, let’s get our hands a little dirty! First up, we need to solder those two layers together like a pro. But hold your horses! Before we dive into soldering, let’s peel off the heat insulation adhesive from the lower layer. Next, grab some Paste Flux and apply it to the third space PCB. Now, let’s position the upper layer just right. Time to fire up that heating platform! Once it hits a cozy 155℃, let’s keep it cooking for a solid minute.

– Once that minute’s up, power down the heating platform and let the motherboard chill for about 5 minutes. Now we’re ready to put this phone back together and see what’s what! Connect the phone to the computer and let’s hit the ‘restore’ button via iTunes. If all goes well, your phone should restore like a champ! Once it’s all done, it’ll power on without a hitch, and you’ll see that SN and IMEI number pop up.

– Just a heads up, since this motherboard is iCloud locked, the activation magic can only be performed by its rightful owner. If you find yourself in a bit of a jam, remember, you can always schedule a repair.

– First up, it says: iPhone X Error 4013. Let’s check out what’s going on.

– Start with a cosmetic inspection of the motherboard. Make sure it’s looking good – no bends, no water damage. A little TLC never hurt anyone!

– Time to get that motherboard in and see what happens!

– Hit the power button and watch the phone boot into recovery mode all on its own. If that’s the case, it looks like the motherboard’s got a restore hiccup, which is why the phone can’t start up normally.

– Alright, let’s get that phone back on track and see if we can kick that pesky error 4013 to the curb! First up, connect your phone to your computer. Then, give it a fresh start by restoring it with 3U Tools.

– Good news! The phone should restore just fine. Plus, once it’s restored, you should be able to activate it like a champ!

– Head over to Settings > General > About. Here, you can check out the baseband info. At this point, we can confidently say the motherboard is all good, so the issue is likely somewhere else in the device.

– Now, grab the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable, and the front camera flex cable, and get them installed properly.

– Turn on your phone. Uh oh, it’s stuck on the Apple logo and keeps restarting, huh? Don’t worry, we’ll figure it out together.

– Looks like the issue is probably tied to the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable, or maybe the front camera flex cable. Let’s take it step by step and figure it out. First, disconnect the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable.

– Now, press the power button to turn on the phone. If it powers up without any issues, then we’re pretty sure the problem is with the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable.

– Grab your microscope and take a peek at the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable. Looks like the Flood illuminator module’s been partying a little too hard—it’s got some mold going on.

– To get things back in shape, secure the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable with high-temperature tape. Fire up your hot air gun to 320℃ with an airflow of 35, and carefully remove that Flood illuminator module.

– Check out those bonding pads—they’ve seen better days and are seriously corroded.

– Start by adding a bit of paste flux to the bonding pad. Grab your Soldering Iron, set it to 360℃, and clean up the pad a bit. If the pad’s looking rough, don’t worry—apply some medium-temp solder paste to give it some TLC, then clean it up with a bit of PCB Cleaner.

– Next up, apply some paste flux to the Flood illuminator module. If the pad is seriously corroded, lay down some medium-temp solder paste. Clean it up with PCB Cleaner afterward. Once you’re done with that, give the bonding pad some paste flux love.

– Place the Flood illuminator module carefully in its spot. Use a Hot Air Gun set to 320℃ with an air flow of 35 to solder it in place. After that, let it chill for 2 minutes before moving on.

– Now, grab the earpiece speaker and sensor flex cable and get them installed. Next, connect the battery. Hit the power button and voilà, the phone powers on as expected.

– Since those two flex cables were left unconnected during the previous restore, let’s fix that! We’ll need to restore again, but this time with both cables connected so that Face ID can work like a charm. Start by putting the phone into DFU mode, then hook it up to your computer.

– Now, use 3U Tools to restore the phone. It should go smoothly, and once it’s done, the phone will boot up like normal. Face ID will also set up without a hitch.

– So, the iPhone X battery is draining faster than usual and overheating? Not cool, right?

– This speedy battery drain usually happens because of a tired old battery or current leakage from the motherboard.

– Replaced the battery, but the drain still won’t stop? Looks like the culprit could be that pesky motherboard current leakage. Time to dig a little deeper!

– Next up, let’s get our motherboard powered with a DC Power Supply to check the current. It looks like we have a little current leakage going on at 186 mA. Let’s keep our spirits high and tackle this together!

– If your motherboard is leaking current after being powered up, let’s get our detective hats on! We can measure the power supply circuits to track down the culprit causing the trouble.

– First up, let’s check out PP_BATT_VCC. Resistance looks totally normal—so far, so good.

– Next, let’s take a peek at PP_VDD_Main. The resistance clocks in at 29, which is on the lower side. This hints that there’s a suspect component hanging out on PP_VDD_Main. Since the current is pretty low, rosin won’t help us spot the culprit. Time to break out the thermal imager and hunt down the troublemaker!

– Start by powering up the PP_VDD_Main on the motherboard. You might not see an immediate temperature change, but that’s okay. It just means the issue isn’t with the surface layer of the motherboard.

– Next, carefully detach the motherboard for more in-depth testing. Place it on the Heating Platform and let it heat up. Once it hits 165 °C, it’s time to separate the logic board from the signal board.

– Once the motherboard’s had a chance to chill out, let’s check out the PP_VDD_Main on the logic board. The resistance is right where it should be—nice!

– Now, let’s do the same on the signal board. Uh-oh, that resistance value is acting up. Looks like we’ve got our troublemaker: the signal board is the culprit.

– Open the bitmap to spot where PP_VDD_Main is hanging out. Keep an eye on the signal board with your Thermal Imager—so far, the temperature’s playing it cool with no big changes. The bitmap reveals that PP_VDD_Main is also chilling under the card reader.

– Alright, it looks like the culprit is probably hiding under the card reader. Let’s give the back of the signal board a check using the Thermal Imager. See that temperature spike at the top left of the card reader? That’s your sign—looks like the issue is hanging out in that area.

– Next up, time to remove the card reader. Don’t forget to apply a little Paste Flux to the bonding pad. To keep the plastic part safe and sound, we’ll coat it with some low-temp Solder Paste to balance out that heat from the bonding pad. Nice and easy!

– Next up, grab your trusty Hot Air Gun and set it to 340°C. Gently heat the card reader while using your Pry Blade to carefully lift it. Once it starts to feel a bit loose, go ahead and remove it!

– Keep an eye on things with the Thermal Imager as you work. You’ll notice the card reader area heating up. From the thermal map, the hot spot is likely the GSM. Looks like it’s time to swap out the GSM!

– Start by adding a little Paste Flux to get things rolling. Then, gently remove the GSM with a vertical wind Hot Air Gun set to 340°C. After that, throw some more Paste Flux on there, along with a bit of middle-temperature Solder Paste on the bonding pad. This helps to cool things down and keep the pad in check for the next steps.

– Grab your Hot Air Gun and some Solder Wick to clean up that bonding pad. Once that’s done, give it a quick clean with some PCB Cleaner. Now, it’s time to check the resistance value of PP_VDD_Main.

– If everything looks good and the resistance value is back to normal, you’re golden!

– Time to pop in a trusty GSM chip! Dab on some Paste Flux, set the GSM right where it belongs, then hit it with a vertical blast from your Hot Air Gun at 320 °C.

– Once everything’s soldered up, grab your multimeter and check resistance again. If the numbers look good, you nailed it!

– Keep dabbing on that low-temperature Solder Paste to the bonding pad of your card reader like it’s the secret sauce to a tasty dish!

– Give that bonding pad a good clean-up with a Hot Air Gun and Solder Wick. Then, switch it up and tidy the back bonding pad using a Soldering Iron and Solder Wick. It’s like a spa day for your device!

– Now, give those pins a good clean with PCB Cleaner — you’ll see them sparkling in no time.

– Next up, let’s get that card reader in place. Slide it right where it belongs.

– Time to secure the card reader! Solder the back bonding pad using your Soldering Iron. If you find any extra solder, gently flatten it with Solder Wick — just don’t drag the wick while removing solder. Finish by cleaning the bonding pad again with PCB Cleaner.

– Now, let’s get the motherboard back together. Place the signal board on the 165°C Heating Platform to warm up. Dab a little Paste Flux on the bonding pad, then carefully line up the logic board with the signal board. Once it hits 165°C, you can safely remove the motherboard.

– To make sure everything’s snug, gently press both sides of the motherboard with tweezers. A little pressure goes a long way.

– Next, power up the motherboard for a quick test. Check that the current is normal, and you’re good to go!

– Plug in the screen to give it a test run. Boot current looks good and steady. The sneaky current leak is gone—mission accomplished!

– The iPhone X has arrived! Let’s take a peek at what’s packed inside this sleek glass sandwich:

– A powerful A11 ‘Bionic’ chip complete with a neural engine and an embedded M11 motion coprocessor.

– A stunning 5.8-inch ‘all-screen’ OLED multitouch Super Retina HD display boasting a resolution of 2436 × 1125 pixels (458 ppi).

– Dual 12 MP cameras (wide-angle and telephoto) featuring ƒ/1.8 and ƒ/2.4 apertures with optical image stabilization for those picture-perfect moments.

– A 7 MP TrueDepth camera with a ƒ/2.2 aperture, 1080p HD video recording, and Face ID to keep things secure.

– Support for speedy fast charging and Qi wireless charging to keep you powered up.

– Our A1865 global unit is packed with extensive cellular band support, plus 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi‑Fi with MIMO, Bluetooth 5.0, and NFC for all your connectivity needs.

– The iPhone has evolved a lot over the past decade—so much so that its design has come full circle, making this model look more like the original than we’ve seen in quite a while.

– Just like with the iPhone 8 earlier this year, Apple has removed the cluttered (and eco-friendly) regulatory markings from the back of the iPhone X.

– Jony finally got the smooth, clean back he’s always wanted. Fingers crossed these phones find their way to recyclers and don’t end up in the trash.

– Before jumping right in, let’s take a quick peek with some 10-ray X-ray recon courtesy of Creative Electron.

– Here’s what the scan revealed:

– Not just one, but two battery cells—definitely a first for an iPhone!

– A super-compact logic board footprint. Judging by the solder points, it seems like there are two layers stacked up.

– To fit extra front-facing sensors, the earpiece speaker has been moved down quite a bit.

– There’s a curious chip tucked between the Taptic Engine and lower speaker—we’re eager to find out what it’s all about!

– Check out this pentalobe screw—it’s got a quirky, unfinished vibe. Those bottom screws? More like pins just hanging out.

– The good news: the rest of the scene hasn’t changed much. Our usual crew—iOpener, Sclack, and Opening Picks—still get the job done.

– This screw is a multitasker: it shifts its threads from the display to the steel frame, and the unthreaded part stretches out into a comically long pin.

– We’re guessing this gives the display some wiggle room, and lets the mounting bracket scoot further inside. That opens up space for a beefier Lightning connector.

– No big shake-ups in resistance here. The OLED display stays well-supported by the frame—unlike some other screens we could name.

– Sideways-opening iPhones are officially a thing now. Apple first pulled this move with the 7 Plus, and it seems like it’s here to stay.

– This bracket is multitasking hard—it covers every logic board connector in sight. That’s some serious connector crowding.

– And, of course, the tri-point screws are back, guarding the next round of repairs after you’ve tackled those pentalobe screws at the entrance.

– Once we’ve liberated that hefty unibracket from the logic board, it’s time to sneak a peek at the impressive hardware that makes Cupertino’s latest flagship tick.

– We’ll dive deeper into the display hardware later, but for now, let’s take a moment to appreciate our X-ray vision—surprise! That elusive chip is snugly attached to the display!

– This body shot backs up our X-ray findings: the spacious dual-cell battery is taking up most of the room, while the logic board has undergone a major shrink session.

– In a delightful twist, the display pops off effortlessly, leaving the front-facing camera behind like a forgotten souvenir.

– The dual rear camera comes equipped with a sturdy bracket—think of it as a bodyguard making sure those sensitive parts don’t get bent out of shape.

– Foam adhesive acts like a snug seatbelt, keeping the cameras locked in place so Portrait Mode and all those cool features stay sharp.

– Check out the tiny spot welds around the camera bump cover glass. They’re there to keep the walls of the camera bump firmly attached to the case.

– Let’s get this dense logic board out and take a closer look at what we’ve got.

– This little board is a master of space efficiency. The sheer number of connectors and components packed in here is mind-blowing. For reference, even an Apple Watch’s bare board weighs in at more than this one, ounce for ounce.

– The iPhone X’s compact logic board manages to cram in more tech while making the iPhone 8 Plus board next to it look like a giant by comparison.

– If you compare the size of the two boards, the iPhone X’s board is about 70% of the size of the iPhone 8 Plus board. That’s a lot more room left over for the battery.

– Apple found a way to pack even more tech into 70% of the space—yep, they folded the board in half. Genius, right?

– The two halves are soldered together, so we needed a little extra help from our trusty BGA hot air rework station to carefully separate them.

– The iPhone X logic board is the first double-stacked one we’ve seen in an iPhone since the very first model (check out the third photo).

– Once we got the pieces apart, we measured all the separate layers and added them up to 135% of the area of the iPhone 8 Plus logic board. Apple really knows how to make more fit into less!

– First up, let’s dive into the techy goodness: we’ve got the Apple APL1W72 A11 Bionic SoC chilling over some high-performance SK hynix H9HKNNNDBMAUUR 3 GB LPDDR4X RAM. It’s a powerhouse, no doubt.

– Next, it’s time to give the Apple 338S00341-B1 power management IC a quick look. This guy handles your device’s power flow, so keep it in check.

– Now, the Texas Instruments SN2501 battery charger steps in. It keeps your juice flowing smoothly, ensuring you stay charged up.

– You’ll also find the NXP Semiconductor CBTL1612A1 here, which is likely just an updated version of the 1610 tristar IC. Think of it as the traffic cop of your device’s connections.

– The Apple 338S00248 audio codec is next. This one’s all about sound—making sure your device sounds as crisp and clear as possible.

– Another power player: the STMicroelectronics STB600B0 power management IC. It makes sure everything stays powered up without a hitch.

– And finally, the Apple 338S00306 power management IC wraps up the first half, ensuring your device’s power is well-managed throughout.

– Pop open that Apple/Murata USI 170821 339S00397 WiFi/Bluetooth module—you know, the chip responsible for all your wireless wizardry. Just don’t lose it in the couch cushions.

– Say hello to the Qualcomm WTR5975 gigabit LTE transceiver! This little guy keeps your data zooming along. It’s not much to look at, but it sure works hard.

– Time to meet the modem squad: Qualcomm MDM9655 Snapdragon X16 LTE modem and its trusty PMD9655 PMIC sidekick. But here’s the twist—Apple likes to mix it up! Some models (like the A1901) rock an Intel XMM7480 (PMB9948) instead. Even though the Qualcomm modem could hit Gigabit speeds, Apple keeps it chill. No turbo mode here.

– Get ready for some amplifier action: Skyworks SKY78140-22 and SKY77366-17 power amplifiers, plus S770 6662, 3760 5418, and 1736. These chips make sure your phone’s signal stays strong, even if you’re hiding in a pillow fort.

– Bring on the Broadcom BCM59355 wireless charging controller. This chip makes charging cable-free and easy—like magic, but with science.

– Check out the NXP 80V18 PN80V NFC controller module. It’s how your phone pays for coffee and trades playlists with a tap.

– Last but not least, the Broadcom AFEM-8072 MMMB power amplifier module—boosting your signal like it’s training for a marathon.

– Now, let’s take a look at the fantastic components located on the exterior of our logic board sandwich:

– Toshiba TSB3234X68354TWNA1 64 GB flash memory, ready to store all your important data!

– Apple/Cirrus Logic 338S00296 audio amplifier, bringing the beats to your device!

– Bosch Sensortec BMP282 pressure sensor, keeping tabs on the atmosphere around you!

– Bosch Sensortec gyroscope/accelerometer, making sure your device stays balanced and steady!

– IC Identification, continued:

– Cypress Semiconductor CYPD2104 USB type-C port controller – this little guy’s the brain behind your USB-C port. It’s the one making sure all your devices communicate smoothly.

– Texas Instruments SN61280E Li-ion DC-DC converter – responsible for efficiently transferring power, it’s the hero behind the scenes keeping your device’s battery running smoothly.

– Apple/Cirrus Logic 338S00296 audio amplifier – this one’s all about getting that sweet sound out of your device. If your audio’s been a little off, this might be the culprit.

– ON Semiconductor DC-DC converter – another power wizard! It ensures your device gets the power it needs, transforming it like magic to fit what’s required.

– SiTime MEMS oscillator – the rhythm keeper of your device! It keeps everything in sync so your system runs like a well-oiled machine.

– Alright, Apple went ahead and made a PCB sandwich—sounds tasty, right? But what’s the secret sauce behind how it actually works?

– Right at the heart of the main board, you’ll find the A11 SoC snug as a bug. The X-ray images give you a cool peek at the board’s 3D setup. Around the edges, those little cylinder holes packed with solder are the connectors holding the two boards together.

– The new dual-celled battery comes with four pull-tabs, similar to the ones we saw in the 8 series, but with a new twist in their orientation.

– This phone packs a 10.35 Wh (2716 mAh at 3.81 V) battery, slightly edging out the 8 Plus’s 10.28 Wh, but still trailing behind the hefty 12.71 Wh battery of the Galaxy Note8.

– The dual-cell design is all about making the most of the space available. With two cells, there’s more freedom to get creative with the shape and placement, maximizing every inch left by the compact logic board.

– Remember that Face ID feature? Before diving into the teardown, we gave it a quick test. Our IR-equipped video camera isn’t quite fast enough to catch the dot pattern, but the illumination is visible and looking good!

– A little history lesson: way back, Microsoft rolled out the Kinect, which used a cool infrared dot matrix sensor developed by Israeli company PrimeSense.

– Apple snapped up PrimeSense for a neat $360 million in 2013 and has since poured hundreds of millions more into bringing this tech to life.

– Meanwhile, Microsoft had to hustle to create a new sensor system for Kinect 2. Now that the iPhone sports a depth sensor, who knows—maybe drones will get in on the action too!

– Let’s check out the top of the phone where the mini Kinect TrueDepth camera system lives! This clever setup uses a bunch of sensors to make facial recognition happen on the X.

– First up: the flood illuminator hidden in the display shines infrared (IR) light right onto your face.

– Next, the front-facing camera (highlighted in red) makes sure there’s actually a face there.

– Then, the IR dot projector on the far right throws a pattern of dots across your face to build a 3D map.

– Finally, the IR camera on the left reads that map and sends the info to the phone.

– Behind the scenes, the X’s speedy software combines all this data to figure out if it’s really you or your sneaky twin.

– We’re almost there! Let’s breeze through the last few components in the rear case.

– First up, we’ve got a tiny bracket, complete with spring connectors and those little EMI grounding fingers. There’s a ribbon cable glued to the back too, so be gentle.

– Next, we’ll tackle the lower speaker enclosure, which is all snug with waterproof adhesive around the port. It’s a bit gooey, but don’t worry, it’s all part of the fun!

– Finally, we’ll release the Taptic Engine and that iconic barometric vent. Apple’s Taptic Engine is just a fancy term for a linear oscillator vibration motor, but it gets the job done, so no complaints here!

– Our teardown engineer uses the dual tweezer technique to gently remove the Lightning connector—precision at its best.

– Good news for anyone tired of dealing with a loose charging cable: the Lightning connector is now sturdier, with a wider bracket that screws into the frame’s sidewall.

– Plus, it’s designed with through holes for the pentalobe screws to pass through and secure the display, just like we saw earlier.

– Alright, with everything else taken apart, let’s check out the display. First up: the earpiece speaker, sporting a fresh new sound duct that channels audio right through the screen. Pretty slick.

– Next, carefully lift out the upper display module—this thing is packed! You’ve got a loudspeaker, microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor all crammed together in one neat bundle.

– Once you’ve removed all the bits and pieces, what’s left is a bare-bones display, ready for whatever comes next.

– Let’s dive into that mysterious chip! Thanks to some awesome tech insights, we’ll take a sneak peek under the shields on the back of the display and discover:

– A Broadcom touch screen controller, tagged as BCM15951B0KUB2G.

– Also making an appearance is a fresh STMicro device that’s new to us, an OLED PMIC marked 10 THADT733 X-139U.

– As we dive into the heart of the device, we uncover a familiar component in this intricate masterpiece: the wireless charging coil.

– Next, we carefully remove the multi-function cable from the top of the phone. This little assembly houses the quad-LED True Tone flash and the power button, reminiscent of the good old iPhones.

– Oh, and let’s not forget everything connected to it, including the volume buttons, the ring/silent switch, and an intriguing sensor bracket.

– Bonus round: So, you’ve gone and cracked the rear glass on your shiny new iPhone X. What now?

– After a generous dose of heat, we swapped out the spudger for the trusty Jimmy. Just like the iPhone 8 and 8 Plus, the X’s back glass is seriously glued down.

– Here’s where things get interesting: Unlike the iPhone 8’s single-piece rear, the X’s camera bump actually sits on top of the rear glass and is welded tight to the metal frame underneath.

– Basically, you’ve got two options in this classic hand-in-cookie-jar scenario: either take off the camera bump (tricky), or go for the glass (messy). Pick your adventure.

– Thanks for joining us on this 22-step teardown feast—it was quite the brain food!

– If you missed the iPhone 8 or iPhone 8 Plus teardowns, feel free to peek at those for some handy comparisons. You can also browse our Smartphone Repairability scores from previous devices.

– A big shoutout to our awesome contributors, Circuitwise, Creative Electron, and TechInsights!

– Grab a SIM card eject tool or just use a paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray. It’s right near the side button on your iPhone—easy to spot!

– Give it a firm push to pop the tray out. Don’t be shy—just a little pressure and you’ll be all set!

– Pop out the SIM card tray from your iPhone like a pro!

– When you’re putting the SIM card back, make sure it’s sitting just right in the tray—nobody likes a misaligned card.

– There’s a nifty little rubber gasket around the SIM tray that keeps water and dust at bay. If you notice it’s damaged or missing, don’t just shrug it off—swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your iPhone’s insides safe and sound.

– First things first: power off your iPhone before diving into the disassembly. Safety first!

– Grab your pentalobe screwdriver and carefully remove the two 6.9 mm screws at the bottom edge of your iPhone. Easy peasy.

– If the screws give you trouble and are stripped or damaged, don’t sweat it—just replace them and keep going!

– Grab your opening pick and measure 3 mm from the tip. Use a permanent marker to make a little mark—this is your guide for the next steps!

– Cover the iPhone’s screen by layering clear packing tape strips until it’s fully wrapped like a pro.

– If the suction cup refuses to stick in the next steps, no worries! Fold a sturdy tape strip (think duct tape) into a little handle and use that to gently lift the screen.

– Grab that blue handle and pull it back to let the Anti-Clamp’s arms loose.

– Slide the arms over the left or right edge of your iPhone—whichever feels right.

– Line up the suction cups near the bottom of your iPhone—one on the screen side, one on the back.

– Give those cups a gentle squeeze so they stick right where you need them.

– Slide that blue handle forward to lock those arms in place. Nice and snug!

– Give the handle a full spin clockwise—360 degrees, or until you see the cups start to stretch. Go ahead and channel your inner DJ.

– Keep the suction cups lined up like best friends at a dance party. If they start drifting apart, loosen them a bit and bring those arms back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and slip it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a pro.

– Fold the iOpener so it’s chilling right on the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it a solid minute—let that adhesive loosen up and wait for a gap to show up.

– Slide an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel (not the screen itself—let’s keep things friendly).

– Go ahead and skip the next three steps—you’re already ahead of the game!

– Grab a hairdryer, heat gun, or whip up an iOpener, and let it work its magic on the lower edge of your iPhone for about a minute. This will help loosen that stubborn adhesive hiding underneath. You’re doing great!

– If you’re using just one suction handle, stick it to the bottom edge of your phone, making sure to steer clear of that curved glass area. You’ve got this!

– Give that suction cup a good pull with steady, confident pressure to open up a little gap between the screen and its frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap beneath the screen’s plastic bezel, making sure to avoid the actual screen itself.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and then up the left side of the iPhone, carefully cutting through the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place.

– Grab your pick and slide it along the bottom edge, then cruise up the right side of your iPhone to keep peeling away that sticky adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Gently glide that opening pick around the top corner of your display, giving it a little wiggle as you pull it down toward the Lightning port. You’re doing great!

– Now, slide that pick on over to the opposite corner and cut through any leftover adhesive holding your display in place. Almost there!

– Grab the tiny nub on the suction cup and give it a little pull to pop it off the front panel.

– Gently lift the iPhone’s display from the left side, just like flipping open the cover of a book. It’s all about that smooth swing!

– Prop the display up against something sturdy while you work your magic on the phone. Keep it steady, my friend!

– When you’re ready to put it all back together, place the display in its rightful spot, align those clips along the top edge, and give the top edge a gentle press until it clicks into place. If it’s being a bit stubborn, take a moment to check the clips around the display’s perimeter to ensure they’re not bent out of shape.

– Let’s get those Y000 screws off! There are five screws holding the logic board connector bracket in place. Here’s the breakdown:

– Three screws at 1.1 mm

– One screw at 3.1 mm

– One screw at 3.7 mm

– Take off that bracket with confidence!

– Now’s a great time to power up your iPhone and give everything a test run before you seal that display back up. Just remember to turn your iPhone completely off before diving back into the work.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger or a clean fingernail to lift the battery connector up from its spot on the logic board.

– Carefully bend the connector slightly away from the board so it doesn’t accidentally reconnect and power up your phone while you’re working.

– Gently pry open the front panel sensor assembly connector using a spudger tip or even your fingernail. A little finesse goes a long way!

– Poke the OLED panel cable connector free using a spudger tip or your fingernail—no need to wrestle with it, just a gentle lift.

– To reconnect, line up the connector and press down on one side till it clicks, then do the same for the other. Skip pressing the middle or you’ll risk bending pins. If it’s looking wonky, double-check the alignment to avoid a permanent oops.

– Grab your spudger and pop up the digitizer cable connector—just a little finesse needed here.

– Plugging it back in takes some patience. Line it up, then gently press with your fingertip—side to side until you feel that satisfying click.

– Screen acting stubborn? If touch isn’t working, unplug the battery and try seating the connector again. Make sure it clicks and that the socket’s clear of any dust or debris.

– Gently lift the cable and let the adhesive work its magic as it comes apart.

– Take out the display assembly carefully.

– When putting it back together, take a moment here if you want to swap out the waterproof adhesive lining the edges of the display.

– Let’s get that bracket out of the way! Remove all seven screws holding it down under the Taptic Engine and speaker:

– Two Y000 screws, 1.9 mm each

– One Y000 screw, 1.2 mm

– One Y000 screw, 1.6 mm

– One Phillips screw, 2.4 mm

– One Phillips screw, 1.7 mm

– One Phillips screw, 1.5 mm

– Gently lift the bracket from the edge closest to the battery. Don’t go all the way just yet, as it’s still hanging on by a tiny flex cable.

– Hold the bracket out of the way and use the pointy end of your spudger to gently pop up and disconnect the flex cable hiding underneath.

– Time to say goodbye to that pesky bracket! Go ahead and remove it.

– Unscrew the 2.1 mm Y000 screw holding down the speaker connector cover and set it aside gently.

– Pop off that speaker connector cover and keep it somewhere safe—you’re on a roll!

– Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift and unplug the speaker connector, like a pro.

– Slide a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right near the iPhone’s case edge.

– Carefully lift and pop up the top edge of the speaker, but don’t rush it!

– When putting the speaker back, double-check the flex cable’s position—make sure it doesn’t get stuck under the speaker.

– Grab the speaker by its side edges and give it a gentle side-to-side wiggle to break free from the adhesive that’s holding it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

– Carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket lets go.

– Time to take out the speaker! Gently lift it out, making sure not to tug too hard. Just give it a little wiggle and it should come right out. Nice and easy!

– Heads up! The speaker’s gasket is a one-time wonder, so let’s get ready to swap it out during reassembly.

– Grab those tweezers and let’s say goodbye to the old gasket—gently peel it off the frame and speaker.

– Time to clean up! Use a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any sticky residue left behind from the gasket.

– Before you pop in the new speaker gasket, make sure you know which way it goes—look for the big cutout that should fit snugly around the speaker grille mesh.

– Peel off the larger, clear liner from the gasket, then with your trusty tweezers, place the gasket right on the bottom of the speaker.

– Now, give that gasket a good press down with your fingers or a spudger to make sure it sticks like it means it!

– Finally, remove the last liner, and carefully position the speaker back in place, ensuring that the connector isn’t hiding underneath.

– Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine. Time to give it some wiggle room!

– Grab your spudger and gently lift the Taptic Engine flex cable straight up from its socket. It’s like a mini tug, but make sure you’re steady and don’t yank it out!

– Carefully take out the Taptic Engine.

– Each strip of adhesive comes with a black pull-tab at its end, gently stuck to the battery’s side edge to keep things neat and tidy.

– Carefully peel away the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. You’ve got this!

– Go ahead and repeat the previous step to carefully lift off the last two sticky adhesive tabs holding the battery down at the bottom edge.

– Boost your chances of success with these tips:

– If a strip decides to break off under the battery and plays hard to get, just move on to the other strips and keep rolling with the steps below.

– Remember, don’t squish the battery! Hold your iPhone securely by its sides.

– Gently keep those strips flat and wrinkle-free as you pull them.

– Take it slow and steady—give the strip a good 15-30 seconds to stretch and separate for each one.

– Pull at a nice low angle to avoid any snags along the bottom edge of the battery.

– Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it towards the bottom of your iPhone. Nice and steady, we’re almost there!

– Keep the tension consistent as you pull, ensuring it slides smoothly out from between the battery and rear case. Take it slow—patience is key!

– Tackle the other side by repeating the previous step, but save that center strip for last. You’ve got this!

– Carefully lift out the center strip—don’t let it catch on the speaker flex cable, or you’ll have a bad day!

– Carefully peel and pull apart the tab on the last adhesive strip located at the top edge of the upper battery cell.

– Peel off that last stubborn adhesive strip.

– If you’ve already cleared away all four adhesive strips, feel free to skip the next step.

– Give it about a minute to let the alcohol do its magic and soften the glue. Then, use the flat edge of a spudger to carefully pry up the battery.

– If any sticky strips snapped off and the battery’s still glued to the rear case, grab an iOpener or fire up a hair dryer to heat the area right behind the battery.

– Flip your iPhone over and slide something sturdy (like dental floss or a skinny piece of guitar string) underneath the battery.

– Rock the string back and forth in a sawing motion along the battery’s length to slice through the adhesive. Hang in there—it’s stubborn, but patience wins. Just don’t squish or poke the battery.

– Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or throw on some gloves) to save your fingers from the struggle.

– Grab the battery from the bottom edge and gently lift it out of your iPhone.

– If there’s any leftover alcohol solution inside, give it a careful wipe or let it air dry before popping in your new battery.

– Put the Taptic Engine and speaker back in place before installing the new battery to help keep everything lined up perfectly.

– Before sticking down the replacement battery, briefly reconnect its connector to the logic board socket to make sure it seats just right.

– If your new battery doesn’t come with adhesive strips, check out this guide for tips on swapping those out.

– After putting everything back together, do a force restart to avoid hiccups and make troubleshooting easier.

– Stick the battery down, unplug it, and keep reassembling your device.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry away those three cables connected to the front camera assembly:

– First up, we have the dot projector.

– Next is the front camera.

– And last but not least, the infrared camera.

– Grab your trusty spudger and get to work! Start at the connector and gently slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case to give that cable some breathing room. You’ve got this!

– Now, let’s show that front camera cable some love too. Just repeat the same process and separate it from the case!

– Warm things up a bit to help the adhesive on the front camera assembly relax and let go.

– Gently remove the front camera assembly. Take your time, it’s a delicate piece, so handle it with care!

– Carefully unplug these cable connectors to keep things moving smoothly.

– Start with the WiFi Antenna connector.

– Next, detach the Wide-Angle Camera connector.

– Then, disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.

– Follow up by unplugging the Telephoto Camera connector.

– Don’t forget the Dock Flex connector.

– Next, remove the Button / Wireless Charging connector.

– Finally, disconnect the Cellular Antenna connector.

– Gently pop off that WiFi Antenna cable connector like a pro.

– Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector to keep things moving smoothly.

– Gently unplug the connector for the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone cable. Take your time—no need to rush this part.

– Gently unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector to keep things safe and sound.

– Unplug the Dock Flex cable connector – easy peasy.

– Now, gently bend the cable upwards at a 90-degree angle. This will give you the space you need to gracefully remove the logic board.

– Gently unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector to keep things cool and ready for the next step.

– Unplug that Cellular Antenna cable connector like a pro!

– Gently nudge the cable to the side, making way for the next steps.

– Heads up: The logic board won’t budge if the SIM card tray is still hanging out. If you skipped that earlier, pop it out now.

– Take out the two Phillips screws that hold things together.

– Next up, grab the 2.0 mm Phillips screw that’s grounding everything.

– Remove the grounding tab—just slide it on out.

– Unscrew the Phillips screw that’s 2.7 mm long.

– And finally, remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

– When you pop out the SIM card, a little pin slides out from the frame and nudges the eject lever in the SIM card holder. Make sure to gently push that pin back into the frame so it doesn’t get in the way when you’re taking out the logic board.

– Grab your fine tip tweezers and gently slide the SIM card eject lever toward the edge of the case.

– When you’re done, the eject lever should look like this—no more pesky pins blocking the logic board from coming out.

– The logic board assembly sits on two posts that pass through the lower board and are fastened to the upper board. To take it out, gently lift it straight up and evenly so it clears the stand-offs without any hiccups.

– Unscrew the 1.4 mm Phillips screw that’s holding down the first grounding tab.

– Lift off the grounding tab carefully.

– Keep an eye on how the tab is positioned so you can snap it back just right during reassembly.

– Unscrew four 1.5 mm Phillips screws. Easy peasy – just grab your screwdriver and go to work!

– Take out the two 1.1 mm Y000 screws—don’t lose these tiny superheroes!

– Pop out the two grounding tabs. Easy does it!

– Warm up the back of the case with an iOpener, or give the WiFi antenna a blast from a hot air gun or hair dryer. Think of it as a spa day for your device.

– Gently peel off the WiFi antenna from the case using a spudger. Take it slow—no need to rush the separation!

– Ready to put everything back together? Just retrace your steps in reverse order and you’ll be back up and running. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.

– Heads up! The SIM card reader on the iPhone X is attached with medium-temp solder, but the motherboard’s middle layer uses low-temp stuff. To keep things smooth, go ahead and split the motherboard first before tackling the SIM card reader.

– Watch out for a few ICs hanging out on the SIM card reader—they’re not just there for decoration.

– Plus, there’s a sneaky plastic piece wedged right in the middle of the SIM card reader. Don’t let it catch you off guard!

– Alright, it’s time to get hands-on! As you’re carefully disassembling and doing some soldering, make sure to use rotational air and keep an eye on the temperature. Pop the motherboard onto the PCB Holder. Fire up that Hot Air Gun, set it to 240℃ with airflow level 7, and get to work. Don’t forget to peel off that sticker from the back of the motherboard – it’s gotta go!

– Next up, place the motherboard on the Heating Platform. We’re just focusing on heating the SIM card reader area. Secure the motherboard in place with some high-temp adhesive. Set your Heating Platform to 200℃ and let it do its thing. Now, grab that Hot Air Gun, bump it up to 280℃, airflow 7, and heat the edge of the SIM card reader. You’re almost there!

– Give the SIM card reader a gentle wiggle with your tweezers while applying heat. Once it loosens up, lift it straight up—no tilting or twisting.

– Time to swap out the old SIM card reader! Dab a bit of Paste Flux onto the bonding pad—think of it as a little spa moment for your PCB.

– Place the new SIM card reader exactly where it belongs. Let it chill on the 200℃ Heating Platform, then hit those edges evenly with a Hot Air Gun at 280℃ and airflow set to 7. Gently press the SIM card reader while heating, making sure it’s flush with the PCB. Nice and snug!

– To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse — easy peasy!

– If you hit a snag or want a pro to handle it, you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Grab a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray, just next to the side button on your iPhone’s edge.

– Give it a firm press, and the tray should pop right out.

– Take out the SIM card tray from your iPhone—easy does it!

– When putting the SIM card back in, double-check it’s lined up right with the tray to avoid any hiccups.

– That little rubber gasket hugging the SIM tray? It’s the unsung hero keeping water and dust out. If it’s looking worse for wear or missing, swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your iPhone safe and sound.

– First, power off your iPhone. We don’t want any surprises while you’re disassembling it.

– Grab your pentalobe screwdriver and remove the two 6.9 mm screws at the bottom edge. Make sure they come out nice and easy.

– If the screws give you trouble, like they’re stripped or damaged, don’t worry—just replace them and keep going.

– Grab your opening pick and measure 3 mm from the tip, then make a little mark with a permanent marker. This will help guide your next steps with precision!

– Cover the iPhone’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is snugly wrapped.

– If the suction cup refuses to stick in the upcoming steps, no worries! Fold a sturdy piece of tape (like duct tape) into a little handle and use that to gently lift the screen instead.

– Grab the blue handle and pull it back to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Slide those arms over either the left or right side of your iPhone.

– Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

– Give the cups a good squeeze together to create suction where you need it.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you feel the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups — make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Warm up your iOpener and slide it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp. No rush here!

– Fold the iOpener and place it gently on the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Give it a minute to work its magic and create that sweet little gap we need to get started.

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the screen and plastic bezel (avoid poking at the screen itself!).

– Skip the next three steps. You’re good to go!

– Grab your trusty hairdryer, heat gun, or iOpener, and get ready to work some magic. Apply it to the bottom edge of your iPhone for about a minute. The heat will soften up that stubborn adhesive underneath, making the next step much smoother. Patience is key, but don’t worry, you got this!

– Stick the suction handle on the bottom edge of your phone—keep it away from the curvy part of the glass.

– Gently pull up on the suction cup with steady pressure to create just enough of a gap between the screen and the frame.

– Slip an opening pick into the gap beneath the screen’s plastic bezel—avoid the screen itself!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and then up along the left edge of the iPhone, carefully cutting through the adhesive that’s keeping the display stuck in place.

– Slide your pick back in at the bottom edge of the iPhone, then gently move it up the right side to keep working on separating the adhesive. Smooth and steady wins the race.

– Gently slide your opening pick around the top corner of the display while easing the display down toward the Lightning port with a little wiggle or pull.

– Next, glide the pick to the opposite corner and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive holding the display in place.

– Grab the tiny nub on the suction cup and give it a little tug to pop it off the front panel.

– Start by gently swinging the iPhone display up from the left side, like you’re opening a book. Smooth and easy does it.

– Prop the display up against something sturdy while you work. You want it steady, so you don’t have to worry about it toppling over.

– When putting it all back together, carefully align the clips along the top edge first, and press the top edge into place. Once that’s snug, snap the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click into place right away, check the clips around the edges. They might be bent, so give them a little love and adjust as needed.

– Unscrew five Y000 screws holding down the logic board connector bracket. Here’s the lineup:

– Three little 1.1 mm screws

– One slightly longer 3.1 mm screw

– And one 3.7 mm screw, the big boss of the bunch

– Take off the bracket.

– When putting everything back together, this is a perfect moment to power on your iPhone and give all the functions a quick test before sealing the display. Remember to completely power down your iPhone again before continuing with the rest of the reassembly.

– Take your trusty spudger or a clean fingernail and gently lift the battery connector from its socket on the logic board. No brute force needed—just a little finesse.

– Once it’s up, nudge the connector away from the logic board. That way, it won’t sneak back into place and power up your phone while you’re working your magic.

– Gently pop off the front panel sensor assembly connector using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail—think of it like opening a stubborn peanut butter jar lid, but way less sticky.

– Gently pop off the OLED panel cable connector using the tip of a spudger or your fingernail. No need to flex those muscles—just a little lift and you’re good.

– When reconnecting, line up the connector and press down one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Skip pressing the middle! Misaligned connectors can bend pins, and trust me, that’s a headache nobody wants.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. No need for brute force—just a little nudge does the trick.

– Reconnecting? This little guy likes to play hard-to-get because it’s tucked in deep. Take a breather, line it up carefully, and use your fingertip to press down—one side, then the other. You’ll feel a satisfying click when it’s locked in.

– If your screen starts acting shy and ignores your touch, disconnect the battery and give the connector another shot. Make sure it clicks in and the socket is dust-free.

– Gently lift the cable to break free from the sticky adhesive.

– Take off the display assembly. Go slow and steady—no sudden moves!

– When you’re putting things back together, this is the perfect spot to swap out the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the screen.

– Let’s get these seven screws out from the bracket underneath the Taptic Engine and speaker:

– Two Y000 1.9 mm screws—tiny but mighty.

– One Y000 1.2 mm screw—blink and you’ll miss it.

– One Y000 1.6 mm screw—just the right size.

– One Phillips 2.4 mm screw—biggest of the bunch.

– One Phillips 1.7 mm screw—the middle child.

– One Phillips 1.5 mm screw—the little sibling.

– Gently lift the bracket from the side closest to the battery. No need to fully detach it just yet – it’s still hanging on by a small flex cable.

– Keep the bracket pushed aside and carefully use the tip of a spudger to gently pop up and unplug the flex cable tucked underneath.

– Time to take off the bracket. Gently remove it with a steady hand, and you’re one step closer to success.

– Time to show that 2.1 mm Y000 screw who’s boss—remove it to free up the speaker connector cover.

– Carefully lift off the speaker connector cover.

– Gently use the spudger’s tip to lift and unplug the speaker connector. Take your time—it’s a small but important step!

– Slide a spudger gently under the top edge of the speaker, right near the iPhone’s case edge.

– Now, carefully lift the top edge of the speaker – it should come up with minimal effort.

– When you put the speaker back, just double-check the flex cable placement to make sure it doesn’t sneak under the speaker.

– Grab the speaker by its side edges and gently wiggle it side to side. This will loosen up the adhesive holding it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

– Now, carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone. Keep going until the adhesive gasket gives way and the speaker pops free.

– Time to take out the speaker! Give it a gentle lift and set it aside for now.

– Heads up: the speaker’s gasket is a one-time-use part. When putting things back together, make sure to swap it out with a fresh one.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully peel off every bit of the old gasket from both the frame and the speaker.

– Next, use a microfiber cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive gunk on the frame and speaker.

– Before you slap on the new gasket, take a moment to line it up right—the big cutout should wrap neatly around the speaker grille mesh at the bottom.

– Peel off the larger, clear liner from the gasket, then use tweezers to gently set the gasket onto the bottom of the speaker.

– Press down firmly with your fingers or a spudger to make sure that adhesive really sticks and the gasket stays put.

– Finally, peel off the remaining liner and pop the speaker back into place, just watch that the connector doesn’t get trapped underneath.

– Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding down the Taptic Engine—easy does it!

– Grab a spudger and carefully lift the Taptic Engine flex cable out of its socket. Just pry it up gently, and it’ll come free.

– Lift out the Taptic Engine and set it aside like a boss.

– Each adhesive strip comes with a black pull-tab at the end, gently sticking to the battery’s side edge. Just give it a little tug and you’ll be good to go!

– Gently peel away the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.

– Go ahead and do the same thing for the last two adhesive tabs stuck to the bottom edge of the battery—keep it smooth and steady!

– Want to boost your chances? Here’s how:

– If a strip breaks off under the battery and won’t come out, no worries! Just move on to the next strip and keep following the steps below.

– Don’t squish the battery! Hold the iPhone carefully by its sides.

– Keep those strips nice and flat, no wrinkles allowed while you pull them out.

– Take it slow and steady—give the strip some time to stretch and separate. It should take around 15-30 seconds to remove each one.

– When pulling, aim for a low angle so the strip doesn’t get stuck on the bottom edge of the battery.

– Find one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and gently pull it away from the battery, guiding it toward the bottom of the iPhone.

– Keep a steady pull and maintain constant tension on the strip until it slides out smoothly from between the battery and the rear case.

– Now, repeat the process for the opposite side, but save the center strip for last. You’ll be done in no time!

– Slide out the center strip gently, keeping an eye on that sneaky speaker flex cable so it doesn’t get caught up in the action.

– Gently lift and separate the pull tab from the last adhesive strip at the top edge of the upper battery cell. Give it a little wiggle if it’s feeling stubborn!

– Gently peel off the last adhesive strip – it’s almost there!

– If you’ve already removed all four adhesive strips, feel free to skip this step and move on.

– Let the alcohol solution do its magic for about a minute to loosen up the adhesive. Then, using the flat end of a spudger, carefully lift the battery out.

– If the adhesive strips snapped and the battery is still holding on for dear life, grab an iOpener or fire up a hair dryer to warm up the rear case right behind the battery.

– Flip your iPhone back so it’s screen-side up, and slide a sturdy piece of string (dental floss or some thin guitar string works wonders) underneath the battery.

– Work the string back and forth in a gentle sawing motion along the length of the battery. The adhesive can be stubborn, so take your time. Patience wins! Just don’t bend or poke the battery.

– Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth or pop on some gloves to save your fingers from the workout.

– Grab the battery by its bottom edge and lift it out of the iPhone.

– If there’s any leftover alcohol solution inside the phone, gently wipe it off or let it air dry before popping in your new battery.

– Before installing the new battery, reattach the Taptic Engine and speaker. This will help keep the battery in place during installation.

– Before sticking the new battery down, plug it back into the logic board socket just to make sure it fits snugly in place.

– If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive already, no worries! Follow our guide to swap out the adhesive strips.

– After putting everything back together, do a force restart. It can prevent common issues and save you time troubleshooting later on.

– Stick the battery in, unplug it for now, and finish putting your device back together.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently unplug the trio of front camera assembly cables:

– First up, the dot projector.

– Next, the front camera.

– And finally, the infrared camera.

– Grab your spudger and carefully slide its tip between the IR camera cable and the case, starting at the connector. This will help you gently separate the cable from the case.

– Now, do the same for the front camera cable. A little patience goes a long way here!

– Warm things up a bit to loosen the adhesive around the front camera assembly. A little heat goes a long way!

– Gently detach the front camera assembly and set it aside. We’re almost there!

– Carefully unplug the following cable connectors to get things moving:

– The WiFi Antenna connector.

– The Wide-Angle Camera connector.

– The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.

– The Telephoto Camera connector.

– The Dock Flex connector.

– The Button / Wireless Charging connector.

– The Cellular Antenna connector.

– Gently unplug the WiFi antenna cable connector to keep things cool and connected.

– Gently unplug the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector to keep things safe and sound.

– Unplug the cable connector for the Power Button, Flash, and Microphone—just a gentle lift and it’s out!

– Gently unplug the Telephoto Camera cable connector to keep things moving smoothly.

– Unplug the Dock Flex cable connector with care.

– Give that cable a little bend, about 90 degrees straight up, to create some space for removing the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently unplug the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector—like you’re disconnecting from a group chat that’s gone off the rails.

– Time to give the Cellular Antenna cable a little freedom – disconnect that connector!

– Gently bend the cable out of the way so it doesn’t get in the way of your next move.

– You can’t take out the logic board with the SIM card tray still hanging out. If you missed it earlier, now’s the time to pop it out.

– Unscrew the two Phillips screws holding things down.

– Next, remove the 2.0 mm Phillips screw that grounds the board.

– Pull off that grounding tab.

– Take out the single 2.7 mm Phillips screw.

– Then remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

– When you pop out the SIM card, a little pin comes along for the ride, sliding out from the frame and giving the eject lever a push in the SIM card carrier. Don’t forget, that pin needs to be slid back into its frame so it doesn’t block your way when you’re ready to remove the logic board. Keep it neat and tidy!

– Grab a pair of fine-tip tweezers and gently slide the SIM card eject lever to the side of the case.

– Once you’ve slid it over, the eject lever should look like this. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board.

– The logic board assembly sits on two posts that poke through the lower board and lock into the upper board. To take it out, lift it straight up evenly so you easily clear the stand-offs without any drama.

– First, grab your trusty screwdriver and unscrew the two Phillips screws holding the camera bracket in place. Here’s the scoop on the screw sizes you’ll need:

– One screw is 2.3 mm long

– The other one is a little smaller, 2.0 mm

– Grab your tweezers and carefully fold that tiny metal grounding bracket out of the way. Heads up: don’t yank it up since it’s attached to a delicate flex cable—handle with care!

– Gently lift the camera bracket from the side nearest the battery and take it out.

– When you’re ready to pop that camera bracket back in, it’s all about reversing the steps: start by aligning the outside edge and sliding the tab on the right side into the gap between the phone’s case and the camera module. Then, simply swing the bracket down over the camera like a pro.

– Grab an opening tool or your trusty fingernail and gently pry the two camera connectors straight up to unplug them from their sockets.

– Place the tip of a spudger into the tiny notch at the bottom right corner of the camera module.

– Carefully pry upward to pop the camera out of the iPhone without causing any harm.

– Carefully pop out the rear-facing camera module.

– Take out the 1.2 mm Y000 screw holding the cellular antenna cable to the screen retainer.

– Gently bend the antenna cable away from the case side so you can reach the screws that keep the retainer attached to the case.

– Unscrew the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the screen retainer in place. Don’t let them roll away—you’ll need them later.

– Lift off the retainer like you’re opening a treasure chest. Onward to the next step!

– Take out those two 2.6 mm stand-off screws that are keeping the Lightning connector anchored to the back of the case.

– Next, remove the pair of 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are locking the charging port into the bottom of the case.

– Warm up the adhesive that’s holding the flex cable to the case. You can use a hot air gun, a hair dryer, or heat the back of the case with an iOpener – whatever works best for you!

– Use a spudger to gently lift the dock connector cable – it’s like peeling back a sticker, but way more satisfying!

– Keep gently lifting the dock connector up – you’re doing great!