Author: Ralph Harris

– Curious about what makes the S10e stand out from the S10? Let’s dig into the specs and find out! We’ll look at the display sizes—5.8″ Super AMOLED Infinity-O on the S10e versus 6.1″ on the S10—along with the processors, cameras, and fingerprint sensors. The S10e features a side-mounted fingerprint button, while the S10 sports an ultrasonic sensor tucked under the screen. Plus, we’ll check out the headphone jack, microSD slot, and water resistance ratings. Exploring these differences helps us understand what’s behind the design choices. If you need a hand with anything more involved, you can always schedule a repair.

– At first glance, these smartphones might seem pretty mysterious with their sleek, monolithic designs. But take a closer look at the S10 and S10+—you’ll find those cool curved display edges waiting to be admired!

– Turning these devices around reveals a fascinating feature: while all of them come equipped with wide-angle and ultra-wide cameras, the S10 and S10+ have a little extra flair with their telephoto camera.

– While we might feel like we’ve time-traveled back to the 1800s when gazing at these phones, Creative Electron has got our back with their cutting-edge X-ray photos that unveil all the secrets hidden beneath the surface.

– Check this out: the S10+ sports a thick ceramic back cover that makes it much less transparent to X-rays compared to its glassy counterparts. In other words, it shows up much darker on X-ray scans!

– The S10e and S10 may look like twins, but the S10e rocks a chunky power button that moonlights as a fingerprint sensor.

– The S10 is a bit mysterious—you won’t spot its fingerprint sensor unless you bust out the teardown skills.

– Both models are still rocking headphone jacks, plus matching USB-C, mic, and speaker ports. Classic moves.

– Up top, you’ll catch your first real-life look at those hole-punch displays, already sporting their screen protectors.

– A shiny new phone may come with a shiny new way to open it… or maybe not! We’re back to warming things up and putting our trusty iSclack to work.

– As we peel the backs off our phones, we’re on the lookout for traps. Not today, Admiral Ackbar! The panels pop off with ease.

– Just when things start to cool down, we spot some clever heat-dissipating graphite pads snugly placed on the back covers. Looks like something’s built to handle the heat without singeing your fingers.

– And wait, is it just us, or is the adhesive playing nice this time around?

– Just a few standard Phillips screws stand between us and the exciting parts! Our Marlin driver set has got your back, and thankfully Samsung has kept it simple with just one driver for this step.

– These midframe assemblies come with their own special feature: they can now wirelessly charge other gadgets too!

– That’s likely why the coils are snugly nestled between two layers of graphite this year—a wireless charger that can both send and receive will create a lot more heat.

– Samsung’s headphone jacks are compact—just 12 mm tall and 8 mm wide—and completely standalone. We love a good modular part! Too bad there’s no space for one in iPhones or iPads.

– We’ll dive into cameras soon, but first, let’s move those selfie cams aside so we can free the motherboard.

– Our teardown pro pulls off a smooth, perfectly coordinated motherboard lift…

– …or do they? Stay tuned!

– Peeking under the motherboard reveals some pretty interesting bits. First off, that big copper heat pipe sitting beneath the board is definitely beefier than the one in the S9—it’s more like the one from the Note9. Next, we carefully peel away a multi-layer thermal interface material from the board. That wide copper surface helps with heat transfer, but since it’s soft metal, a flexible interface layer helps fill in gaps and keeps everything running cool and smooth. We also notice a thin sticker that looks like it provides RF shielding, especially since there’s a large hole in the can lid underneath—showing a PMIC and a pink thermal pad. To sum it up: fast charging and reverse wireless charging crank up the thermal stress on the system, and Samsung has gone all out with cooling measures to keep things in check. If you want to get more hands-on, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Start by carefully removing the main camera array from the board. It’s housed in a yellow plastic frame—probably ABS or nylon in its natural hue, giving it a slightly retro vibe, but that’s part of the charm. Next, set each camera array aside near its corresponding selfie camera—left for the main, right for the selfie. For the Galaxy S10, note that the left array has an extra camera: a 12 MP telephoto with ƒ/2.4 aperture and OIS, connected on the same connector as the standard wide-angle. The 12 MP wide-angle cameras also feature OIS and the dual-aperture setup from the S9+. Lastly, the 16 MP ultra-wide modules, with ƒ/2.2, are a bit bulkier with thicker plastic frames. Want to see what’s happening inside? An X-ray view reveals the telephoto camera’s sensor and OIS electromagnets. If you need help with the more intense teardown steps, you can always schedule a repair.

– Alright, let’s dive right into the heart of the matter—those chips! On the top side of our motherboards (S10e on top, S10 at the bottom), here’s what we’ve got:

– S10e: THGAF8T0T43BAIR 128 GB Toshiba UFS NAND flash storage

– S10: KLUFG8R1EM-B0C1 512 GB Samsung eUFS NAND flash storage

– Samsung K3UH7H70AM-AGCL LPDDR4X sitting proudly above the Qualcomm Snapdragon 855 SoC

– Qualcomm WCD9341 audio codec making sure your tunes sound great

– Qorvo QM78062, probably a snazzy RF Fusion front-end module

– Maxim MAX77705C PMIC keeping everything powered up

– Skyworks SKY78160-51 Low Noise Amplifier, because noise is so last season

– Samsung really went all out this time, adding even more tech magic to the flip sides:

– Murata KM8D03042 (your likely Wi-Fi/Bluetooth buddy)

– Qualcomm SDR8150 RF Transceiver (the communication wizard)

– Qualcomm PM8150 Power Management (keeping the power flow just right)

– IDT P9320S wireless power receiver (your wireless charging friend)

– Qorvo QM78062 Power Amplifier Module (likely boosting those signals)

– NXP PN80T NFC controller w/ Secure Element (for those tap-to-pay moments)

– Qualcomm QDM3870 RF front end module (laying the groundwork for great connectivity)

– We’ve checked out the big-ticket components—now let’s give a shout-out to the unsung heroes playing backstage:

– Cirrus Logic CS35L40 audio amplifier

– Qualcomm QET5100 envelope tracker

– Skyworks SKY13716-11 low-band LNA front-end module

– Probably a Samsung S2DOS05 display power management IC

– Probably a Samsung S2MPB02 camera power management IC

– STMicroelectronics STM32G071EBY6 32-Bit Arm Cortex-M0+ microcontroller with 128 Kb flash memory

– NXP Semiconductor BGU8103 GPS/GLONASS/Galileo/COMPASS low noise amplifier

– And now, for the grand finale:

– STMicroelectronics LPS22HH pressure sensor

– STMicroelectronics LSM6DSO accelerometer

– Samsung S2MIS01 MST driver

– Most likely a Diodes Incorporated AH1897T Hall Effect sensor

– Vishay DG2730 USB 2.0 DPDT analog switch

– NXP Semiconductor NCX2200 low voltage comparator

– RDA Microelectronics RDA6213N FM transceiver (probably)

– Time to tackle those batteries! Both are stuck down tight to their metal midframes—no easy pull tabs here.

– No stress—we’ll use some adhesive remover and let it do its thing while the glue chills out.

– The S10e packs an 11.94 Wh battery, while the S10 steps it up with 13.09 Wh (that’s a 13% bump from last year’s 11.55 Wh).

– Just for comparison, the iPhone XR runs on 11.16 Wh, and the XS has 10.13 Wh.

– Alright, we’re going in! Removing these ultra-thin displays is always a gamble, but we like living dangerously. Once inside the S10, you’ll spot the fancy ultrasonic fingerprint reader.

– Cool tech, but don’t get too attached—the sensor is stubborn and not likely to survive an extraction. We threw everything short of a kitchen sink at it, and it’s still holding on for dear life.

– Other chips you’ll see:

– Qualcomm QBT2000 Ultrasonic Fingerprint Sensor Controller

– If the fingerprint sensor ever throws a tantrum, just know that a new screen might cost you a small fortune. If things get dicey, you can always schedule a repair.

– Samsung S6SY771X Touchscreen Controller

– Winbond W25Q80EWUXIE 8 Mb Serial Flash Memory

– Removing the flat display on the S10e isn’t exactly a walk in the park, but it’s a bit less intimidating than tackling the curved S10 screen. Heads up—these displays probably won’t be winning any Fortnite tournaments after this. The S10e doesn’t have that fancy ultrasonic tech glued on the back, but it’s got its own familiar feature: a capacitive touch sensor built right into the power button. Just a heads-up: this repair means peeling the entire screen off to get to the button—kind of a full-on display removal mission. The touch controller IC inside is the same one used in last year’s S9s and previous Galaxy models, so it’s a familiar face in the repair world. And that serial flash memory? It’s a GigaDevice GD25LH40C 4 Megabit chip, sitting quietly, waiting to be handled. If you need a hand with any of this, you can always schedule a repair.

– These ultra-slim Samsung displays don’t just look cool—they also help keep things chill inside your phone with layers of copper and graphite working together to whisk away heat from those busy components.

– See that camera hole? That’s no accident! It’s laser-zapped out, pixel by pixel, carving a perfect tunnel right through the midframe and motherboard straight to the camera. Science, but make it snazzy.

– Now, the hidden sensors—proximity and fingerprint—are even sneakier. They peek straight through the OLED screen, making for a wild edge-to-edge look. You won’t notice them during regular use, but with the screen popped off, they’re suddenly playing peekaboo.

– We went all-in and took apart two phones just for you—here’s the highlights if you’re short on time:

– But that’s not all! If you’re feeling extra curious, check out our third teardown: we’ve got a video walkthrough of the S10+.

– Now let’s see how these phones stack up with their repair scores.

– Big batteries inside, but they’re stuck down with glue and swapping them isn’t a breeze.

– These phones can wirelessly charge other devices, but heads up—it generates a lot of heat and could be tough on your battery in the long run.

– The screens are cool and packed with tech, but replacing them will still hit your wallet and patience hard—especially now that the fingerprint sensor’s moved. If this step looks impossible, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop open your settings app—it’s where the magic happens!

– Head over to the ‘Advanced Features’ section—it’s usually hanging out right there in your settings, just waiting for you to tap it.

– Tap that Bixby key like you mean it!

– Flip the switch for ‘Single press to open Bixby’ to turn on ‘Use double press,’ then tap on the text to confirm. Easy peasy! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Next, go ahead and tap on ‘Open App’ to get things rolling!

– Give that ‘Flashlight’ button a tap, or pick any other feature that catches your eye.

– Power down your phone before you get started—let’s not have any unexpected surprises.

– Grab your iOpener and heat up the right edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Get ready to dive in! In the upcoming steps, we’re going to slice through the adhesive that’s holding the back cover in place.

– From the outside of your phone, you’ll be making your way through the adhesive in the areas we’ve highlighted for you.

– The adhesive is a bit more chill on the right side of the phone, just under the Bixby button, so that’s where you want to start!

– Attach a suction cup to the back cover, aiming for the heated edge near the Bixby button where the adhesive is at its weakest. Let’s get that cover off with a little finesse!

– Prop up the warm edge of your phone on something that’s about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick. This nifty angle will make it a breeze to slide in that opening tool.

– Use your suction cup to gently lift the right edge of the back cover, creating a little gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Now, slide the edge of your opening tool into that gap.

– It might take a bit of muscle! If you’re struggling, don’t hesitate to apply a little more heat to soften that adhesive, and give it another go. Just a heads up, the adhesive cools off quickly, so you might need to warm it up a few times.

– Gently slide the opening tool along the right edge of your phone to carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Take it slow—you’ve got this!

– Slide an opening pick along the edge, right next to the opening tool. Let it hang out there to stop the glue from sticking back together while you keep working.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of your phone a cozy two-minute hug.

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently insert it at the top right corner of your device. Slide it around the corner and across the top edge like you’re tracing a smile!

– Keep that opening pick in place to keep the adhesive from staging a comeback. You’ve got this!

– Warm up the left edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Slide a new opening pick into the top left corner and gently glide it down the left edge of your phone. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick snugly in place along the left edge to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. Nice work!

– Heat things up by placing a warmed iOpener along the bottom edge of your phone for about two minutes.

– Grab an opening pick, sneak it into a bottom corner of your phone, and glide it smoothly along the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Grab those opening picks and gently wiggle them to lift the back cover. Take your time, we want to keep things smooth!

– Once you’ve got it, go ahead and remove the back cover like a pro.

– If you feel any stubbornness, just pause for a moment. Use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Time to grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out those eight 3.9 mm screws holding the upper midframe in place. Let’s make it rain screws—just keep them somewhere safe!

– Gently slide an opening pick into the bottom right corner of the upper midframe to break free the adhesive that’s binding it to the lower midframe. Take your time and be careful—you’re doing great!

– Let’s kick things off! Slide the point of your spudger into that nifty little cutout on the right edge of the plastic upper midframe, just a stone’s throw from the Bixby button.

– Now, using that same trusty spudger, give the midframe a gentle pry to lift it away from the phone’s chassis. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the midframe using the plastic section and slide it out of the phone. To put it back, start by hooking the top edge of the assembly into the phone’s frame, then carefully press down on the rest of the assembly until it clicks into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place a heated iOpener on the top half of the midframe and hold it there for about a minute. This gentle warmth helps loosen things up, making the rest of the disassembly smoother. If you need a hand with the process, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take your opening tool and gently lift the wireless charging coil’s contact pad away from the midframe—no need to rush, just a smooth move!

– Gently lift the wireless charging coil off the midframe—no need to rush, just take it slow and steady.

– Gently pull the wireless charging coil’s contact pad out of its midframe slot to loosen it up.

– Take out the wireless charging coil carefully.

– When you’re putting things back together, use some double-sided Tesa tape to stick the contact pad onto the midframe—it helps keep everything in place.

– Compare your new replacement part with the original—sometimes you need to transfer bits or peel off adhesive backing on the new part before it’s ready to go.

– Make sure your phone is powered all the way down before getting started—trust me, it’s less dramatic that way.

– Warm up your iOpener and give the right edge of the back cover a good two-minute spa treatment. This helps loosen up the sticky stuff holding everything together.

– Next up, you’ll be working your magic to slice through the sticky stuff holding the back cover in place.

– From the outside, aim for the highlighted zones—those are your adhesive targets.

– Pro tip: The right side, just below the Bixby button, has the skinniest layer of adhesive.

– Stick that suction cup onto the back cover, right up near the heated edge—aim for just below the Bixby button, where the glue is at its weakest. You’ve got this!

– Prop up the heated edge of your phone on something about half an inch (13 mm) thick. This gives you a nice angle to sneak in your opening tool.

– Use your suction cup to lift up the right edge of the back cover, just enough to create a little gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide the edge of your opening tool into that gap like you’re slicing into a stubborn avocado.

– It might take some muscle! If it’s being difficult, reheat the area to loosen up the adhesive—don’t be shy, it cools off quickly and might need a second (or third) round.

– Glide your opening tool along the right side of the phone to gently cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Gently insert an opening pick into the edge next to the opening tool. Keep the pick in place to stop the glue from sticking back together as you work.

– Warm up the top edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic before moving on.

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of your phone, then gently glide it around the corner and along the top edge. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick snugly in place to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. You’re almost there!

– Warm up the left edge of your phone for about two minutes using a heated iOpener—think of it as giving your device a quick spa treatment before you get hands-on.

– Pop a new opening pick into the top left corner and slide it smoothly down the left side of your phone—like you’re buttering toast, but with more tech.

– Let that pick chill on the left edge so the sticky stuff doesn’t try to make a comeback.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your phone.

– Grab an opening pick and slide it along the bottom edge of your phone, starting at one of the corners. This will loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.

– Grab your trusty opening picks and gently get under the back cover – treat it like a secret treasure waiting to be uncovered!

– Carefully lift off the back cover once you’re in – it’s like peeling off a surprise layer of a gift!

– If you feel any stubborn resistance, pause for a moment and use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive that’s playing hard to get.

– Take out the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding the upper midframe to your phone. Keep those screws somewhere safe—they love to wander off!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe and loosen up that sticky adhesive bonding it to the lower midframe. Take it slow—no need to rush this part!

– Begin by slipping the tip of a spudger into the small notch on the right edge of the upper midframe’s plastic section, just near the Bixby button. Gently leverage the spudger to lift the midframe away from the phone chassis. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the midframe using the plastic section and carefully take it out of the phone. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put it back together, start by inserting the top edge of the assembly into the phone’s frame. Then, with a little love, press down on the rest of the assembly until it clicks into place. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery connector and lift it straight up to disconnect it. Nice and easy—no rush!

– Grab your Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew those seven 3.9mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently insert the tip of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the loudspeaker. Carefully pry upward with the spudger to lift and loosen the speaker.

– Gently lift the loudspeaker out and set it aside.

– When putting things back together, press around the edges of the loudspeaker until it clicks into place.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop the screen connector free from its spot on the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!

– Flip your phone over so the screen is staring right back at you.

– Warm up the right edge of the display with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as a spa day for your phone.

– Look for the display seam—it’s the one above that slim plastic bezel. That’s your VIP entrance for prying the screen loose.

– Avoid the frame seam! It’s hanging out below the bezel, and poking at it will only annoy the plastic. Stick to the display seam for smooth sailing.

– Stick a suction cup onto the heated edge of the display—think of it as a little grabber for your screen.

– Gently pull up on that suction cup with steady, confident force to create a small gap.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the seam between the display and the frame—think of it as gently prying it open like a book.

– Gently glide that opening pick along the right edge to cut through the sticky stuff holding your device together.

– Once you’re in there, keep the opening pick in the corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t seal up on you again.

– Warm up the bottom edge of the display by applying a heated iOpener for about a minute. This helps loosen things up and makes the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, remember you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide an opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive, like you’re opening a treasure chest. Keep the pick in the corner to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up, so your next move stays smooth. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Work your magic again: heat and slice along each of the other display edges. Take it one side at a time, and keep that patience strong!

– Gently lift the display glass and set it aside like royalty—your screen’s grand exit is complete.

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the OLED panel for about a minute. This will help loosen the adhesive and make the next steps way smoother.

– Gently lift the display panel from the right side and ease it away from the frame. Take your time and let it peel off like a sticker—nice and smooth!

– Carefully guide the display panel connector through the frame like you’re threading a needle—steady hands win the day!

– Ready to put everything back together? Just retrace your steps in reverse order.

– Got old parts or gadgets? Drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give them a second life.

– Once you’re done, check out our guide to make sure your repair is working smoothly.

– If your device is still being stubborn, try some basic troubleshooting, or chat with our Answers community for advice. If you need backup, you can always schedule a repair with us!

– Power down your phone before getting started—no one likes a surprise buzz in the middle of a repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone’s back for about two minutes. That heat helps loosen the sticky stuff holding the cover on.

– In these next steps, you’ll gently slice through the adhesive holding the back cover in place, so be patient and steady.

– From the outside of the phone, carefully cut along the highlighted areas where the adhesive is securing the cover.

– The adhesive is thinnest just on the right side of the phone, just below the Bixby button—pay extra attention there for a smooth separation.

– Stick a suction cup on the back cover, right up near the heated edge, just below the Bixby button—this is where the adhesive is at its weakest. Get ready to make that glass pop!

– Prop up the heated edge of the phone on something about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick to tilt it just right—making it easier to slide in the opening tool. Then, grab your suction cup and gently lift the right edge of the back cover to create a small gap between the cover and frame. Carefully insert your opening tool into that gap. Be prepared to apply a bit of elbow grease—if it’s stubborn, give the area a quick blast of heat to soften the adhesive further, then try again. Remember, the adhesive cools quickly, so reheating may be necessary. If you need a hand with this, you can always schedule a repair.

– Glide your opening tool down the right side of the phone, slicing through the sticky stuff holding the back cover in place.

– Gently slide in an opening pick into the edge right next to the opening tool. Keep the pick there to stop any leftover glue from sneaking back together. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

– Place the heated iOpener on the top edge of your phone and let it sit for two minutes. It’s like giving your device a little warm-up before the big fix!

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of the phone and gently work it around the corner and along the top edge.

– Keep that opening pick in place so the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick again.

– Warm up the left edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for a solid two minutes.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the top left corner, then cruise along the left edge like you own the place.

– Keep that pick hanging out on the left edge—it stops the sticky stuff from coming back together. Sticky situations avoided!

– Warm up the bottom edge of your phone with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Start by slipping in an opening pick near a bottom corner of the phone. Then, gently slide it along the bottom edge to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the device together.

– Grab your opening picks and gently work around the edges to pop off that back cover. Go easy now!

– Once the cover is free, lift it off and revel in your achievement.

– If you run into any sticky spots, pause for a moment, whip out your trusty opening pick, and slice through any stubborn adhesive before continuing.

– Follow this step-by-step to reattach the back cover and stick down the new adhesive. Keep it friendly and straightforward—you’re almost there! If you hit a snag or need a pro touch, just schedule a repair with Salvation Repair for extra help.

– Unscrew the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding the upper midframe in place. Take your time—these little guys love to hide, but you’ve got them covered!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding it to the lower midframe. Take your time—no need to rush!

– Slip the tip of your spudger into the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe—it’s hanging out near the Bixby button.

– Gently pop the midframe up from the phone’s body using the spudger. Easy does it!

– Grab the midframe by the plastic section and lift it out—like you’re picking up a slice of pizza, but less cheesy.

– When putting it back, slide the top edge into the frame first, then gently press down on the rest until it clicks into place. Easy does it!

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the battery connector straight up from its socket to give it a little break from the circuit.

– Grab your trusty Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew! It’s time to take out the seven 3.9 mm screws that are holding your loudspeaker in place. Let’s do this!

– Slide the pointed end of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the loudspeaker. Think of it as gently wedging your way in.

– Carefully leverage the spudger to lift and loosen the loudspeaker, like giving it a friendly nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come out.’

– Gently lift out the loudspeaker—like you’re plucking a prize from a claw machine.

– When you’re ready to put it back, press around the edges until you hear that satisfying snap.

– Gently wiggle your spudger under the headphone jack connector and pop it free from the motherboard socket.

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the headphone jack port like you’re sneaking snacks into a movie.

– Give the spudger a confident lift until you feel the headphone jack pop loose from the frame—no sweat!

– Take out the headphone jack—give it a gentle wiggle if needed, and set it aside for later.

– Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse.

– Once you’re done with the repair, give your device a little test run using this guide to make sure everything’s working smoothly.

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, no worries! Try some basic troubleshooting, or if you’re feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair for some expert help.

– Power down your phone completely before getting started. Trust us, it’ll make things easier!

– Warm up an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone’s back for about two minutes. This helps loosen up that stubborn adhesive holding the cover in place.

– Time to slice through that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover in place. Grab your tool—think of it as a butter knife but way cooler.

– You’ll be gliding along the highlighted zones, just like tracing a secret map from the outside of your phone.

– Heads up: the adhesive is at its skinniest on the right side, right under the Bixby button—so that’s your easiest spot to start!

– Tilt your phone gently by propping up its heated edge on something about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick — this makes slipping in the opening tool way easier. Grab your suction cup and lift the right edge of the back cover, creating a tiny gap between the cover and the frame. Wiggle an opening tool into that gap, applying steady pressure — and don’t worry if it takes a bit of force. If it’s stubborn, give it some more heat to loosen the adhesive, then try again. Remember, the adhesive cools fast, so reheating might be necessary if resistance persists. If you need a hand, schedule a repair.

– Glide your opening tool along the right edge of the phone to gently break through the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap next to the opening tool. Keep the pick in place to stop that pesky glue from sticking back together.

– Pop a heated iOpener on the top edge of your phone and let it chill for about two minutes. This will help loosen up things a bit before we dive in!

– Slide an opening pick into the top right corner of your phone and gently maneuver it around the corner and along the top edge. You’re doing great!

– Keep that opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from making a comeback. You’ve got this!

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the left edge of your phone a cozy two-minute hug.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and sneak it into the top left corner, then cruise along the left edge of your phone.

– Let that pick chill in the left edge to keep the sticky stuff from closing back up on you.

– Gently press a heated iOpener against the bottom edge of the phone and hold it there for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up, making the next steps smoother. If you need a hand along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your opening pick and slide it into a bottom corner of the phone, then cruise along the bottom edge to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Grab your opening picks and gently work around the edges to loosen the back cover—no need to rush, just vibe with it.

– Lift off the back cover once it’s free. Nice and easy!

– If the cover puts up a fight, pause for a sec and use an opening pick to slice through any stubborn adhesive. Patience wins this round.

– Pop that back cover into place and swap out the adhesive—almost like giving your device a fresh new outfit.

– Loosen and remove the eight 3.9 mm Phillips screws holding down the upper midframe to free it up. If you need assistance along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the upper midframe and work your way around—you’re just convincing that stubborn adhesive to let go of the lower midframe.

– Grab your spudger and aim for the little notch on the right side of the upper midframe, right by the Bixby button—like finding the secret snack stash.

– Gently coax the midframe up from the phone’s body using the spudger. It’s a bit like popping the lid off a stubborn jar, but way more satisfying.

– Grab the midframe by its plastic bit and lift it out of your phone like a pro.

– When you’re ready to put it back, line up the top edge with the frame first, then press down gently to snap everything back together. Easy does it!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the battery connector. Give it a little nudge upwards to pop it right out of its socket and you’ve got it disconnected!

– Grab your trusty Phillips driver and get ready to unscrew! Carefully take out those seven 3.9 mm screws that are keeping the loudspeaker in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch on the right side of the loudspeaker.

– Give it a little pry with the spudger to help loosen that loudspeaker up!

– Gently lift the loudspeaker out of its spot and set it aside. When you’re ready to put everything back, press around the edges of the loudspeaker until it clicks into place. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the screen connector from its socket on the motherboard. Easy does it—just a steady, careful lift to disconnect.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the fingerprint sensor connector from its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips driver and take out the two 4 mm screws holding the fingerprint sensor bracket in place. Easy does it!

– Warm up the fingerprint sensor bracket with a heated iOpener for about a minute. This helps loosen that stubborn adhesive, making your next step smoother sailing.

– Gently use your tweezers to lift up the fingerprint sensor bracket—easy does it!

– Take out the fingerprint sensor bracket and set it aside.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pry the fingerprint sensor cable away from its sticky home on the adhesive gasket. You’ve got this!

– Place the phone face up, so the display is looking right at you.

– Warm up the right edge of the screen with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Spot the display seam—it’s the line just above the skinny plastic bezel. This is your go-to area for prying the display loose.

– Watch out for the frame seam—that one’s below the bezel. Don’t pry there, or the plastic bezel will have a bad day.

– Stick your suction cup on the warmed-up edge of the screen—give it a good press so it grabs hold.

– Pull up on the suction cup with steady confidence until you see a small gap start to form.

– Slide the tip of your opening pick right into that gap like a pro.

– Glide the opening pick along the right side to break up that stubborn adhesive.

– Let the pick chill in the corner—this keeps the adhesive from making a comeback.

– Warm up the bottom edge of the screen with a heated iOpener for about a minute—give it a little spa treatment before moving on.

– Slide a plastic opening pick carefully along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the device together.

– Keep the opening pick in the corner once you’ve started to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up.

– Work your way around the rest of the display, giving each side a warm-up and a gentle slice. Keep going until you’ve got it free!

– Gently lift up the display glass and set it aside like you’re handling a piece of precious art.

– Warm up the OLED panel gently with a heated iOpener for about a minute to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. This helps make the next steps smoother and safer.

– Gently lift the display panel starting from the right edge, and smoothly peel it away from the frame like opening a perfectly wrapped present.

– Slide the display panel connector through the frame, like threading a needle—smooth moves only!

– Start by carefully removing the display panel. If you’re working with a custom-cut adhesive, follow this guide to remove the old glue and prep the surface for the new one. When using Tesa tape to stick the screen back on, just follow this guide for a smooth reattachment. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the fingerprint cable cover. Give it a little pry to pop it off the frame.

– Now, go ahead and lift that fingerprint cable cover right off!

– Take your spudger and nudge the fingerprint sensor cable out of its frame cutout—nice and easy, like you’re threading spaghetti through a straw.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift out the power button support bracket from its cozy little spot.

– When you’re putting it back, make sure those indents are pointing away from the button, and the center tab is looking up—like it’s ready for action.

– Ready to put your device back together? Just follow these steps in reverse.

– Don’t trash those old parts—take them to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and keep our planet happy.

– Once you’re done, check out our guide to make sure everything works perfectly.

– If things didn’t go as planned, try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for advice.

– Still stuck or want a pro to handle it? You can always schedule a repair with us.

– Ready to get sticky with it? In these next steps, you’ll be working your way through the glue that’s keeping the back cover locked down.

– From the outside, you’ll be slicing along the highlighted zones—think of them as your adhesive obstacle course.

– Pro tip: The adhesive is thinnest on the right side, just below the Bixby button, so that’s your easiest entry point.

– Set the heated side of your phone on something about half an inch (13mm) tall. This gives you a nice angle to slide in your opening tool—like setting up your own little repair ramp!

– Grab that suction cup and lift the right edge of the back cover until you see a tiny gap peeking through.

– Slide the edge of your opening tool into the gap. Be brave—sometimes it takes a bit of muscle!

– If the adhesive is putting up a fight, hit it with some more heat to soften it up. It cools down fast, so you might have to warm things up a couple times. Patience pays off!

– Gently slide your opening tool along the right edge of the phone to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep a steady hand and take your time—you’re peeling back the layers for a smooth reveal. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide an opening pick into the edge right next to your opening tool. Let it chill there—it’s your secret weapon to keep that pesky glue from sticking back together.

– Gently lay a heated iOpener on the top edge of the phone and let it sit for about two minutes. This helps loosen things up so you can get inside more easily.

– Grab an opening pick and work it into the top right corner of your phone, then glide it smoothly around the corner and all the way across the top edge.

– Keep the pick in place so that the sticky adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick itself back together.

– Gently press a heated iOpener along the left edge of the phone for two minutes to loosen things up.

– Start by inserting a new opening pick near the top left corner of the device. Gently slide it along the left edge to loosen the adhesive. Keep the pick in place on the left side to prevent the adhesive from resealing, making your next steps easier. If you need assistance at any point, you can always schedule a repair.

– Place a heated iOpener along the bottom edge of your phone and let it chill there for two minutes.

– Take an opening pick and slide it into a bottom corner of your phone. Glide it smoothly along the bottom edge to loosen up the sticky adhesive holding things together.

– Grab those opening picks and gently work your way around the back cover—slow and steady wins the race.

– Lift off the back cover with care.

– If you hit a stubborn spot, pause for a sec and use an opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive.

– Put your device back together by working through the steps in reverse—like rewinding a movie, but with more tiny screws.

– When it’s time to say goodbye to old parts, drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and let them live their best second life.

– Done with the repair? Jump over to the testing guide to make sure everything’s working like a charm.

– If things aren’t cooperating, swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting wisdom. And if you need backup, you can always schedule a repair.