Author: Ralph Harris

– Turn off your phone and disconnect any cables—give your device a little break before we dive in!

– Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the bottom edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to loosen things up.

– Place the suction cup right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover—try to get it as close to the edge as you can.

– Gently pull the suction handle upwards with consistent force. This will start to create a little gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap to keep it open and continue the process.

– Glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep the pick hanging out in the bottom right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick things back together.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep the heat gentle but steady to loosen things up and make the cover easier to lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Glide the opening pick along the bottom right corner and cruise up the right edge to slice through that stubborn adhesive.

– Let the pick chill in the top right corner for now.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Glide the opening pick around the top right corner and cruise along the top edge to slice through that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick chilling in the top left corner for now.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Give it a nice spa treatment before you start prying.

– Glide the opening pick around that top left corner, then cruise down the left edge to slice through the last bits of sticky stuff holding things together.

– Pop off that back cover like it’s the lid on a soda can!

– Before you snap everything back together, fire up your device to make sure all the important stuff is working. Once you’ve checked, shut it down fully before you get back to business.

– Putting your old back cover back on? You know the drill.

– For a fresh back cover, peel off the protective liners, then press down like you’re sealing an envelope—make sure the edges are locked in tight.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to pull away the old sticky adhesive from the cover and the frame.

– A little isopropyl alcohol (over 90%), a trusty microfiber cloth, and some elbow grease will wipe out any leftover gunk.

– Ready for new adhesive? Follow this guide to lay down the custom-cut stuff and get your device looking sharp again.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and get ready to unscrew! First, remove the nine 4 mm screws that keep the motherboard cover snug. Then, take out the seven 4.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker. Keep track of your screws—they’re the star players in this teardown. Need a hand? Remember, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair if things get tricky.

– Slide a pick under the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover and let the adventure begin.

– Give the pick a gentle twist—those clips won’t know what hit them.

– Sneak your pick under the bottom left edge and twist again to set the rest of those clips free.

– When you’re putting it all back together, press all around the edge of the motherboard cover to snap those clips back in place.

– Swing the motherboard cover out of the way to get to the battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out near the bottom edge of the motherboard.

– Slide the tip of a spudger into the bottom left corner between the loudspeaker and the frame—like you’re opening a secret door.

– Gently lift to pop the clips along the left edge of the loudspeaker free. Give it a little wiggle if needed.

– Move to the bottom right corner and lift up to release the last few stubborn clips. Victory is near!

– When putting it all back together, press down all around the loudspeaker’s edges to snap those clips back in place. That satisfying click means you nailed it!

– Take out the wireless charging assembly with care.

– Place a heated iOpener on the loudspeaker to loosen up the glue holding it to the wireless charging assembly. This will make it easier to peel off without a fuss.

– Gently peel back the graphite sheet from the top edge of the loudspeaker, like you’re peeling a sticker—smooth and steady. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up that iOpener and give some love to the graphite tape on the bottom edge of the motherboard cover. It’s like a cozy blanket for your device!

– Gently lift the graphite sheet away from the bottom edge of the motherboard cover, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.

– Now you’re looking at the wireless charging coil. Fancy, isn’t it?

– Line up your new part with the original—sometimes there’s a little sticker or adhesive you need to peel off before popping it in.

– Power down your device and disconnect all cables to get ready for the repair. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Easy does it—this will soften the adhesive and make the next steps smoother. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick the suction cup right at the bottom edge of the back cover—get it as close to the edge as you can.

– Give the suction handle a solid, steady pull to pop open a gap between the cover and the frame. Channel your inner strong person!

– Slip an opening pick into the gap—slide it in carefully.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep the pick in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give that right edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug. You’ll be amazed at how easily it pops off after that!

– Gently glide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and continue up the right edge to cleverly cut through that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the opening pick snugly in place at the top right corner while you tackle the next step!

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to get things loosened up.

– Gently slide your opening pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to loosen the adhesive grip.

– Keep the pick in place in the top left corner to hold things steady.

– Gently warm up the left edge of the back cover using a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the cover easier to remove. If you need a hand with this step, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to cut through the last bits of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Pop off the back cover—like opening a secret hatch to tech adventure!

– Now is a great time to power on your device and double-check everything works before you seal it back up. Don’t forget to shut it down completely before moving on.

– Reinstalling your old back cover? No problem, let’s get that snug and secure.

– Got a new back cover? Peel off those liners and press firmly around the edges to make sure it’s tight and secure.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to gently remove the old adhesive from the back cover and frame.

– For any leftover sticky residue, grab some isopropyl alcohol (the stronger, the better) and a microfiber cloth to wipe it all away.

– Follow these steps to add some fresh custom-cut adhesive and keep everything in place.

– Slide a pick under the bottom right side of the motherboard cover—think of it as the secret handshake.

– Give the pick a little twist to pop loose those stubborn clips holding the cover down.

– Do the same pick-and-twist move on the bottom left edge to set the rest of the clips free.

– When you’re putting things back together, press down evenly all around the cover so the clips snap back into place. Almost done—high five!

– Shift the motherboard cover out of the way so you’ve got a clear shot at the battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out on the bottom edge.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the connectors for the battery and wireless charging from the motherboard. Easy does it—precision beats force every time!

– Slip a spudger right into the gap at the bottom left corner of the loudspeaker, nestled between it and the frame. Gently pry up to pop the clips holding the left edge in place. Then, wiggle the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker to free the remaining clips. When you’re putting everything back together, press down firmly around the edges of the loudspeaker to ensure all the clips click into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Start by carefully detaching the wireless charging assembly from the device. Keep your cool and work steadily—you’re almost there! If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros.

– Power down your device and disconnect all cables to get ready for the fix. Keeping things unplugged and off makes the repair safer and smoother. If you need a pro hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your SIM eject tool, a small bit, or even a paperclip you’ve straightened out—whatever you’ve got handy—and give it a firm press into the SIM tray hole on your phone’s top edge. Keep pressing until the tray pops out.

– Once the tray is ejected, go ahead and remove it.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.

– Place the suction cup right in the middle of the bottom edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible. We’re aiming for a clean start.

– Now, gently pull up on the suction handle with steady, firm pressure. You want to create a small gap between the cover and the frame. No need to rush, just steady and strong.

– Slip an opening pick into the gap you just created. You’re doing great so far!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep the pick in the corner—specifically the bottom right—to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a little spa treatment before you dive in.

– Glide your opening pick along the bottom right corner and cruise up the right edge to slice through that sticky adhesive.

– Let the opening pick chill in the top right corner for now.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give the top edge of the back cover a cozy two-minute hug. It’s like a spa day for your device!

– Glide the opening pick along the top right corner and across the top edge to cut through the sticky stuff.

– Let the pick chill out in the top left corner for now.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for two minutes to loosen things up.

– Glide your opening pick along the top left corner, then cruise down the left edge to cut through that last bit of adhesive. Almost there!

– Start by carefully removing the back cover of the device. Keep your tools steady and gentle, and you’ll have that cover off in no time. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now’s a great time to turn your device back on and make sure everything is working smoothly. Just remember to power it down again before you finish up.

– Breathe new life into’ or ‘resurrect’ your old back cover? If so, here’s what to do next:

– Got a shiny new back cover? Remove the liners and press silent assassin style around6930 the perimeter to secure it to the frame.

– Gently pry the old adhesive off the back cover and frame using tweezers or your fingers – it’s like removing a stubborn sticker.

– Dab a microfiber cloth với some high-octane iso-propyl alcohol (we’re talking 90% or higher) to wipe away any lingering adhesive residue.

– Ready for a fresh start? Follow this guide to apply new custom-cut adhesive and get your device looking brand new. If you need help, schedule a repair

– Slide a pick under the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover.

– Give that pick a little twist to pop the clips free and set the cover loose.

– Now, slide and twist the opening pick at the bottom left edge to let the rest of those clips join the party.

– When you’re putting things back together, give a solid press around the edges of the motherboard cover to lock those clips in place.

– Swing the motherboard cover out of the way to get to those battery and wireless charging connectors hanging out on the bottom edge.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the connectors for the battery and wireless charging from the motherboard. Take your time—careful leverages make for smooth sailing. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slip the pointy end of your spudger between the bottom left corner of the loudspeaker and the frame—like you’re sneaking up on it.

– Gently pop up the left edge of the loudspeaker to free those hidden clips. They’ll let go, promise.

– Now, ease up the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker to set the rest of the clips free.

– When you’re putting it all back together, give the perimeter of the loudspeaker a good press to make sure all the clips snap back in place.

– Carefully detach the wireless charging assembly.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the interconnect cable’s press connector from the motherboard. Take your time—patience makes perfect. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop off those three camera connectors—like unplugging tiny, high-tech Legos.

– Slip one arm of your angled tweezers beneath the red antenna cable’s head, like you’re scooping up a tiny treasure.

– Lift straight up with gentle confidence—no need to wrestle, just a clean disconnect.

– Repeat the move for the white antenna cable. Easy does it!

– Repeat the previous step to disconnect the blue antenna cable from the bottom left corner of the motherboard. During reassembly, ensure the antenna cables are snugly seated in their channels along the edges of the phone. When reattaching antenna connectors like these, line up the connector with its socket and gently press down with the flat end of a spudger—there’s a satisfying snap when it seats properly. It might take a couple of tries, but patience pays off. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew that 4 mm long screw holding the motherboard in place.

– Take your spudger and gently nudge up the top edge of the motherboard until you can grab it like you mean it.

– Lift out the motherboard—don’t be shy, give it a confident pull.

– When you’re putting things back together:

– Keep those eight motherboard cables clear so they don’t sneak underneath and get trapped.

– Set the motherboard back in its spot and press down to lock it in place.

– Flip the motherboard over and set it gently on a soft, clean cloth—treat it like royalty so it doesn’t get scratched or dinged.

– Gently pop the ultra wide camera connector with the flat end of your spudger.

– Lift out the camera and set it aside like a true tech magician.

– Hit that power button to turn off your phone, and disconnect all the cables—let’s keep things chill and safe before you dive in!

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup right at the bottom center of the back cover, as close to the edge as you can get. Think of it as your tiny, friendly pry buddy.

– Pull up on that suction handle with steady, confident pressure—no need to go Hulk on it, just enough to loosen things up and create a small gap between the cover and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap you just made. Easy does it—this is your first step in gently separating the parts without any drama.

– Glide the opening pick across the bottom edge to loosen up the sticky adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Keep the pick chilling in the bottom right corner—this stops the adhesive from sneaking back together.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This gentle heat helps loosen the adhesive, making it easier to peel apart. Take your time and be patient—if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide that opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge to cut through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep that opening pick snugly inserted in the top right corner while you tackle the next step.

– Warm up your iOpener and set it on the top edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes. Let the heat work its magic!

– Gently wedge the opening pick into the top right corner and glide it along the top edge to cut through the adhesive. Keep the pick in place at the top left corner as you work. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Give your iOpener a little love and warmth by applying it to the left edge of the back cover for about two minutes. Let it work its magic!

– Glide your opening pick around the top left corner, then cruise down the left edge to slice through that last bit of adhesive.

– Start by carefully removing the back cover to get to the internal components. Take your time and keep track of any screws or parts you take out. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now’s a perfect time to power up your device during reassembly and test all functions. Just make sure to power it down completely before moving forward with sealing everything back up.

– If you’re putting your old back cover back on:

– If you’re working with a new back cover, just peel off the liners and press it down around the edges to make sure it sticks securely to the frame.

– Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully peel off any leftover adhesive from the back cover and the frame.

– Grab some highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and a microfiber cloth to wipe away any stubborn adhesive residue.

– Check out this guide to apply fresh, custom-cut adhesive to get things back to brand new.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those 16 screws holding the wireless charging assembly in place:

– First up, we’ve got nine 4 mm-long screws keeping the motherboard cover snug and secure.

– Next, don’t forget about the seven 4.5 mm-long screws that are holding the loudspeaker down.

– Slide a pick under the bottom right side of the motherboard cover—like a secret agent sneaking in.

– Give the pick a twist to pop those clips loose. It’s less dramatic than a movie, but way more satisfying.

– Head to the bottom left edge and repeat the pick-twist move to free up the rest of the clips. You’re basically a clip ninja at this point.

– On your way back to reassembly, press down all around the cover’s edge. The clips will snap into place, no sweat.

– Slide the motherboard cover aside to give yourself a clear shot at the battery and wireless charging press connectors along the bottom edge of the motherboard. Keep it easy, keep it friendly—you’re just making space for the next step. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the battery and wireless charging press connectors. Give them a little nudge to disconnect them from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Slide a spudger into the gap at the bottom left corner of the loudspeaker, where it meets the frame.

– Gently pry upward to pop the clips holding the left side of the loudspeaker in place.

– Same deal for the bottom right corner—lift it up to release those last clips.

– When putting everything back together, press down along the edges of the loudspeaker to click the clips into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop out the wireless charging assembly—easy does it, no wrestling required!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the display cable press connector from the charging board. Nice and easy—no wrestling moves required!

– Grab a spudger and gently disconnect the fingerprint sensor and its interconnect cable by pressing on the connectors. Easy does it—think of it as giving those connectors a little polite tug to free them up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide one arm of your angled tweezers under the head of that white antenna cable like a pro.

– Gently lift straight up to disconnect the cable—easy peasy!

– Now, repeat the same smooth moves to disconnect the red antenna cable.

– Carefully pop the red and white antenna cables out of their snug little clips on the charging board. No need to wrestle—just lift them out gently.

– When you’re putting everything back together, make sure those antenna cables are chilling in their channels along the right edge before snapping them into place. Smooth and simple.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew that 3.5 mm screw holding the charging board in place. Easy does it—you’re just freeing up one tiny piece to move forward.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the left side of the charging board until you can grab it with your fingers. Keep it light and steady—you’re just loosening it up for the next step. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Before you install your new part, give it a quick side-by-side comparison with the original one. If there’s anything left to transfer, now’s the time.

– To wrap things up, just reverse the steps you followed to take it apart—easy, right?

– Got e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.

– Something went wrong? No worries, take a breath! Try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our community for some extra guidance. And if it’s still not working, you can always schedule a repair.

– Power down your device and disconnect all cables before you start. No need to rush—just a quick shutdown keeps everything smooth for the repair. If you hit a snag or want to get it done professionally, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Stick a suction cup onto the bottom center of the back cover, close to the edge. Keep it nice and snug for a good grip.

– Pull gently on the suction handle with steady, confident pressure to start prying the back away from the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve created. Easy does it—you’re opening the door to what’s inside!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the bottom edge to cut through the adhesive holding the back cover in place. Keep the pick in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from resealing as you work.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Glide your opening pick around the bottom right corner, cruising up the right edge to loosen that sticky adhesive.

– Let the pick chill in the top right corner—it’s holding things in place nicely.

– Place a heated iOpener on the top edge of the back cover and hold it there for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps smoother. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Glide your opening pick around the top right corner and cruise along the top edge to cut through the adhesive.

– Let that pick chill in the top left corner for now.

– Gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner and all the way down the left edge to cut through that stubborn adhesive like a pro!

– Start by gently removing the back cover to get access to the inner parts. Take your time and keep track of any clips or screws—you’ll want to put everything back just right.

– Now’s a great time to power on your device and test all functions before sealing everything back up. Just remember to turn it off completely before you get back to work.

– If you’re putting your old back cover back on:

– When installing a brand new back cover, peel off the liners and press down firmly along the edges to make sure it sticks to the frame.

– Grab some tweezers or your fingers to gently peel off the old adhesive from the back cover and frame.

– To clean up any leftover adhesive, use highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a microfiber cloth for a spotless finish.

– Follow this guide to apply the new custom-cut adhesive for a smooth, secure fit.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and gently remove the 16 screws holding down the wireless charging assembly. This includes nine 4mm screws securing the motherboard cover, and seven 4.5mm screws holding the loudspeaker in place. Take your time, stay organized, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently wedge a pick under the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover. Give it a twist to pop the clips loose. Then, slide the pick into the bottom left edge and turn to release the remaining clips. When putting everything back together, press down around the edges of the motherboard cover to click the clips into place. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Shift the motherboard cover into a new position to reveal the battery and wireless charging press connectors nestled at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Let’s get to it!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up the connectors for the battery and wireless charging press from the motherboard. Take your time—it’s all about careful prying. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the bottom left corner where the loudspeaker meets the frame. Like a ninja, but with way less drama.

– Pop up the left edge of the loudspeaker—those clips won’t know what hit ’em.

– Lift the bottom right corner to finish freeing the loudspeaker. Clips, begone!

– When you’re putting things back together, give the perimeter of the loudspeaker a solid press to snap those clips right back in place.

– Carefully disconnect and remove the wireless charging assembly to keep things moving smoothly. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently use the flat side of your spudger to lift and disconnect the fingerprint sensor press connector. A little nudge is all it takes!

– Ready to put things back together? Just retrace your steps and give your device that finishing touch.

– Got old parts or tech clutter? Drop them off with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler—your future self will thank you.

– If things didn’t go as planned, don’t sweat it! Try a little troubleshooting or reach out to our Answers community for advice.

– Still stuck? You can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.