Author: Ralph Harris

– Grab a SIM card eject tool, a small screwdriver, or even a straightened paperclip, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray. You’ll find it on the top edge of your phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.

– Press in with a little force, and voilà, the tray will pop right out!

– Pop out that SIM card tray like a pro! It’s easier than you think.

– When you’re ready to put the SIM card back in, just make sure it lines up perfectly with the tray. It’s like a puzzle piece!

– Don’t forget about that thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray; it’s your phone’s little superhero against water and dust. If it’s looking worse for wear, consider swapping it out or getting a new SIM tray to keep your device safe and sound.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the back cover for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive so you can lift the cover more easily. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge. Think of it as giving your phone a little hat.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to start cracking open a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to arm wrestle, just steady pressure.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you’ve made. You’re basically a phone ninja now.

– Gently slide the pick along the bottom edge, back and forth, to cut through the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from sealing itself back up.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Give it a nice spa treatment to loosen things up!

– Once you’ve got the pick under the edge of the glass, give it a little tilt and slide it in deeper to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and free the back cover.

– Run the pick along the left side of your phone to break up that stubborn adhesive holding the back cover.

– Leave the pick chilling under the left edge—think of it as a doorstop for glue, so it doesn’t sneakily reseal itself.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a solid two minutes. Let the heat work its magic before moving on.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the right edge like a pro.

– Give that suction cup a good, firm tug to open up a little gap between the back cover and the frame—you’re doing great!

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just created. Easy peasy!

– Gently glide your pick along the right edge of the phone to break the adhesive on the back cover. Keep it steady, you got this!

– Once you’ve slid your pick under the right edge of the glass near the top, leave it there to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. Easy, right?

– Lay a heated iOpener across the top edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes to help loosen things up.

– Carefully slide the pick from the right edge of your device, hugging that top right corner as you go.

– Keep on slicing along the top edge and around to the left side until you’ve fully separated the back cover adhesive.

– Gently lift the back cover, using opening picks to slice through any stubborn adhesive along the way. Once it’s loose, remove the back cover completely. During reassembly, this is a good moment to power on your device and check all functions before sealing it back up—just remember to turn it off completely before continuing. Use tweezers or your fingers to clear away any leftover adhesive chunks; applying a bit of heat can help loosen stubborn spots. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. For double-sided tape, stick to this guide. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to tackle those six 4 mm-long screws holding the motherboard bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. Easy does it — just a gentle tug to unclip it.

– Lift the motherboard bracket just enough to sneak a peek at the orange battery connector.

– Time to getthis repair started! Use a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect thebattery connector.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector—think of it as giving it a friendly nudge to disconnect.

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil off—it’s like peeling a sticker, but way more high-tech.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and give yourself a mental high five.

– When putting it all back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors, then secure those motherboard bracket screws so everything lines up. Press the coil pad down so it sticks snugly.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five 4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe.

– Grab your trusty spudger or tweezers and poke them into the notch at the top left corner of the midframe—give it a gentle pry to pop those clips loose.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and lower midframe like a pro.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up those main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard hanging out near the bottom of your device.

– When you’re reconnecting these press connectors, line them up with care, press down on one side till you get that satisfying click, then do the same on the other. Steer clear of pressing in the middle—misalignments can mean bent pins and a world of trouble. Take it slow and you’ll keep everything happy and healthy.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard. Easy does it—no need to rush!

– Lift up those main and auxiliary flex cables with care and set them aside.

– Gently lift and detach the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard.

– Grab your spudger and gently pry up the main display flex cable from the motherboard. Keep it careful—you’re disconnecting a key component, but there’s no rush. If you run into trouble, remember you can always schedule a repair for extra help.

– Gently lift and bend the display and left 5G antenna flex cables away from the motherboard and battery, keeping everything safe and snug.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and spin out the three 4 mm screws holding down the upper midframe—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and slide its tip into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a gentle wiggle to pop those clips loose.

– Lift off the upper midframe and set it aside—like a pro!

– Grab your spudger and pop up the right 5G antenna flex cable from the motherboard. It’s like giving it a gentle nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to move!’

– Take your tweezers and carefully bend that cable out of the way, making space for the next move. Think of it as rearranging furniture at a tiny tech party.

– Gently pry up and disconnect that side button flex cable from the motherboard—think of it as peeling away a sticker. Then, carefully bend the cable out of the way of the motherboard, keeping it out of harm’s way. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently pry up the front-facing camera flex cable and disconnect it from the motherboard. Take your time, no rush!

– Once it’s free, carefully bend the cable out of the way so it doesn’t get caught on anything while you continue working.

– Gently lift and unplug the upper 5G antenna cable from the motherboard.

– Grab a spudger and gently pop up the corner of the 5G millimeter wave antenna module—think of it like opening a stubborn bag of chips.

– Lift out the 5G antenna module and set it aside, like you just found treasure.

– When you’re putting it back, connect the 5G antenna connector first to get everything lined up, then press the rest down so it sticks. Nice and snug!

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and loosen up the two screws holding down the motherboard and camera assembly.

– One screw is 4 mm long.

– The other is 3.4 mm long.

– Slip the flat end of your spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly—think of it as a tiny lever—and gently pop it up like you’re opening a secret compartment.

– Lift out the motherboard assembly and give yourself a nod of approval for this slick extraction.

– Gently pop the ultrawide camera connector off the motherboard using the flat end of your spudger—it’s like unplugging a little Lego brick.

– Lift out the ultrawide camera module and set it aside. Nice work!

– Gently pop up the telephoto and wide-angle camera connector from the motherboard using a spudger. Think of it like giving your phone a little chiropractic adjustment.

– Lift off the depth sensor with your spudger—just a casual disconnect, no stress.

– Gently take out the last rear-facing camera module—give it a little wiggle if it’s feeling stubborn!

– Take a moment to compare your shiny new replacement part with the original—don’t forget to transfer any leftover components or peel off those pesky adhesive backings before you dive into the installation!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. Easy peasy!

– Once you’ve wrapped up the repair, follow this guide to give your handiwork a test run.

– Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let’s keep our planet happy!

– If things didn’t go quite as planned, don’t sweat it! Swing by our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips. And remember, if you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute rest on the bottom edge of the back cover. This will help soften things up for the next step!

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the phone frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap to get things started.

– Glide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through that sticky stuff.

– Keep your pick chilling in the seam so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover by applying a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This helps loosen the adhesive and makes the cover easier to lift. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of the phone, aiming for the center of the left edge—precision points if you’re feeling fancy.

– Give the suction cup a firm, steady pull to coax a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need for superhero strength, just some solid determination.

– Slip the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made. You’re basically a phone ninja at this point.

– For stubborn adhesive, a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can help loosen things up. Science saves the day!

– Slide the pick under the edge of the glass, then angle it down and push it in a bit more to break up the adhesive holding the back cover. Keep it smooth and steady—you’re almost there!

– Glide the pick along the left edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the back cover.

– Leave the pick chilling under the left edge so things don’t stick themselves back together.

– Place a heated iOpener on the right edge of the back cover and let it sit for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up so you can get inside more easily.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center along the right edge. Time to give it a good grip!

– Pull on the suction cup with steady strength—like you mean it—until you see a little gap pop up between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into that gap. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide your pick along the right edge of the phone to loosen the adhesive holding the back cover.

– Keep your pick tucked under the top part of the glass near the right edge to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. This gentle heat will loosen things up, making it easier to get inside. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently work your way from the right edge of the device, slipping the pick around the top right corner. Keep the momentum going along the top edge, slicing all the way to the left to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the back cover, taking your time. Use opening picks to carefully slice through any stubborn adhesive. Once you’ve got it loose, remove the back cover entirely. During reassembly, it’s a smart move to power on your device and test all functions before sealing everything up tight. Make sure to shut it down completely before you put the back on again. For leftover adhesive bits, grab a pair of tweezers or your fingers—apply a bit of heat if they’re being stubborn. If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide. For double-sided tape, refer to this step-by-step.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the six 4 mm screws holding down the motherboard bracket. Keep those screws safe—you’re going to need them to put things back together later.

– Grab your tweezers and smoothly lift the motherboard bracket out of its cozy spot on the plastic midframe—just pop it up and unclip it like you own the place.

– Carefully lift the motherboard bracket to reveal the orange battery connector, making it easy to access.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the battery connector to disconnect it. Easy does it—no need to wrestle!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector to set it free.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully lift the wireless charging coil away from the device. Easy does it!

– Next up, gently take out the wireless charging coil. You’re doing great!

– As you put everything back together, start by reconnecting the charging coil and battery connectors. Then, secure those motherboard bracket screws to keep everything snug in its place. Finally, give that coil pad a firm press to ensure it sticks nicely. You’re almost there!

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and gently unscrew the five 4 mm screws holding in the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Keep them safe—these little guys are easy to lose! If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take a moment to compare your new replacement part to the original one. If necessary, transfer any remaining parts or peel off any adhesive backings before you start the installation.

– Now, just work your way back through the steps to reassemble your device—easy peasy!

– Once you’ve wrapped up the repair, follow this guide to test if everything’s working like it should.

– Don’t forget to recycle your e-waste properly! Find a certified recycler, like an R2 or e-Stewards certified one, to dispose of it responsibly.

– Things didn’t go quite as planned? No worries—check out our Answers community for some troubleshooting help, or if you feel like you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the bottom edge—like you’re giving your phone a little belly button.

– Give the suction cup a confident pull so you open up a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to arm wrestle, just keep it steady.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you’ve created. It’s like sneaking a backstage pass for your phone’s inner workings.

– Gently glide the pick along the bottom edge, back and forth, to break through that sticky adhesive barrier.

– Once you’ve made some progress, keep the pick in the gap to stop that adhesive from sealing back up. You’re doing great!

– Warm up that trusty iOpener and give the left edge of the back cover a cozy hug for two minutes.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center of the left side.

– Give the suction cup a good, steady pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the pointy end of an opening pick into the gap you’ve created.

– If the adhesive is stubborn, a few drops of high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can loosen things up.

– Once the pick is tucked under the edge of the glass, give it a gentle tilt downward and work it in further. This helps to fully loosen the adhesive holding the back cover. Keep at it until it’s free—salvation repair is here to help if you get stuck.

– Carefully glide the pick along the left side of the phone to break the hold of the back cover’s adhesive.

– Keep that pick tucked under the edge of the glass to stop the adhesive from making a sticky comeback.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Let it get nice and toasty—your phone’s about to get the spa treatment.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the right edge.

– Give that suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently glide your pick along the right edge of the phone to break free the adhesive holding the back cover in place.

– Once you’ve made some progress, tuck that pick under the right edge of the glass near the top to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes.

– Gently glide the pick from the right edge of your device, making your way around the top right corner like a pro.

– Keep slicing along the top edge, all the way to the left edge, until the back cover adhesive is completely separated. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the back cover—don’t rush it! Slide an opening pick along the edges to free up any stubborn adhesive.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside.

– When you’re putting things back together:

– This is the perfect moment to power up your device and check that everything’s working before you seal it shut. Just remember to turn it off completely before moving on.

– Clear away any leftover adhesive with tweezers or your fingers. If it’s being clingy, a little heat can help loosen things up.

– Using custom-cut adhesives? You can follow Salvation Repair’s guide for a smooth application.

– Going with double-sided tape? There’s a guide for that too, courtesy of Salvation Repair.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift up the motherboard bracket—just unclip it from the plastic midframe. Easy does it!

– Carefully lift the motherboard bracket, just enough to make the orange battery connector visible and ready for action.

– Grab a spudger and gently work it under the battery connector to carefully disconnect it.

– Grab your spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector. Easy does it—steady hands win the day!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil away from the device—think of it as peeling a sticker, but way cooler. Next, carefully remove the coil completely. When you’re putting everything back together, first reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors, then tighten the screws on the motherboard bracket to keep things aligned. Finally, press down firmly on the coil pad to make sure it sticks well—salvation repair is all about that solid connection. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and let’s get to work! Remove those three little 4 mm-long screws holding the upper midframe in place. It’s easier than it sounds, and you’ve got this!

– Take that trusty spudger and gently slide its pointed end into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe. Give it a little pry to pop those clips loose and free it up.

– Now, go ahead and lift off the upper midframe. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard. It’s like giving your phone a little high five—just don’t get too rowdy.

– When reconnecting, line up the connector carefully and press down one edge until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Skip pressing in the middle—those pins are delicate! Misalignment could mean bent pins, and that’s just bad news for everyone.

– Dab some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol around the front-facing camera area to loosen up that stubborn adhesive. Think of it as giving the glue a little spa treatment.

– Let it sit for a minute or two so the alcohol can work its magic and soften that adhesive, making your next steps smoother sailing.

– Slide the flat end of your spudger under the bottom edge of the front-facing camera module and gently pop it loose.

– Lift out the front-facing camera module—don’t worry, it’s not shy.

– If the old adhesive still looks sticky, you can reuse it. Want a fresh start? Swap it out with a pre-cut adhesive sheet.

– If you’ve taken out the camera module’s insides without the plastic shell, a few drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol around the edges can help loosen that stubborn adhesive. Then, grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the plastic camera casing away. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a SIM eject tool, a paperclip straightened out, or a bit, and gently insert it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray—it’s usually on the top edge of the phone, right next to the plastic antenna band.

– Give it a firm press to pop the tray out and get ready for the next step.

– Take out the SIM card tray. When you pop the SIM card back in, make sure it’s oriented correctly—no upside-down surprises! There’s a skinny rubber gasket around the tray that keeps water and dust out—if it’s torn or missing, swap it out or replace the whole tray to keep your device happy and healthy. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair if things get tricky.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the back cover’s bottom edge for about two minutes to loosen things up. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the bottom edge.

– Give the suction cup a confident pull—steady and strong—to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Wiggle your pick along the bottom edge like you’re slicing a digital cake—this cuts through the sticky stuff holding things together.

– Keep your pick chilling in the gap so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up the left side of the back cover with a heated iOpener for a couple of minutes.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the center along the left edge—precision points for style.

– Give the suction cup a steady, confident pull to open up a gap between the back cover and the frame. No need to break out the superhero muscles, just keep it firm.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you created, like you’re unlocking a secret level.

– Feeling a little resistance? A few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the seam can help persuade that stubborn adhesive to let go.

– Once the pick slips under the edge of the glass, tilt it down and keep pushing to loosen the adhesive, helping the back cover come free.

– Glide the pick along the left edge of your phone and let it do its thing—separating that stubborn adhesive from the back cover.

– Leave your pick chilling under the left side of the glass, so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and stick itself again.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—think of it as giving your device a cozy spa moment before we get to work.

– Stick a suction cup on the back of your phone, aiming for the middle of the right edge—like you’re giving your phone a little badge of honor.

– Give the suction cup a solid pull—think strong, steady, and determined—to pop a gap between the back cover and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap you just made. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide your pick along the right edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady to avoid any cracks or snags.

– Tuck your pick under the top right corner of the glass near the edge to stop the adhesive from sealing back up as you work. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty iOpener and warm it up! Place it on the top edge of the back cover and let it work its magic for two minutes. You’re doing great!

– Carefully work that pick from the right edge of your device, around the top right corner, like you’re navigating a rollercoaster ride.

– Keep on slicing across the top edge until you reach the left side, pulling that back cover adhesive apart like a champ!

– Gently lift the back cover—no need to rush! Use your opening picks to cut through any leftover adhesive like a pro.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside. You’re making progress!

– While putting things back together:

– Now’s a smart time to turn your phone on and check that everything works before sealing it shut. When you’re done testing, power it off completely before moving on.

– Clear away any stubborn adhesive bits using tweezers or your fingers. If the adhesive isn’t letting go, a little heat can help loosen things up.

– If you’re working with custom-cut adhesives, check out Salvation Repair’s guide.

– If double-sided tape is your weapon of choice, Salvation Repair’s got a guide for that too.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out those six 4 mm screws holding the motherboard bracket in place.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe. Just a gentle tug is all it takes—no need to force it. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Carefully lift the motherboard bracket to reveal the orange battery connector, making it easy to access.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up the battery connector to disconnect it. Keep it smooth and steady—no force needed. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the connector for the wireless charging coil—easy does it!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the wireless charging coil away from the device. Take it slow, we don’t want any accidents!

– Gently remove the wireless charging coil, being cautious not to damage any surrounding components.

– When you’re putting everything back together, first reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors. Then, tighten up those motherboard bracket screws to keep everything in place. Finally, press down the coil pad to make sure it sticks and aligns perfectly.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five 4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe in place.

– Grab your trusty spudger or tweezers and poke them into the notch sitting at the top left corner of the midframe. Give it a gentle pry—those clips are ready to let go!

– Lift out the loudspeaker and the lower midframe like a pro.

– Grab a spudger and gently pry up and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of the device—think of it as giving them a little nudge. When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, align them carefully and press down on one side until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Never press down in the middle—misaligning the pins can cause permanent damage, and nobody wants that. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair to get expert help.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main and auxiliary flex cables to disconnect them from the motherboard. Easy does it—you’re making great progress!

– Carefully lift and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables. Take your time, but don’t worry, you’ve got this!

– Gently lift and disconnect the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard to keep things moving smoothly.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work it under the main display flex cable. With a little finesse, disconnect it from the motherboard. You’re doing great!

– Gently peel back and bend the display and left 5G antenna flex cables away from the motherboard and battery, giving yourself some wiggle room to work with.

– Grab a Phillips #00 screwdriver and unscrew the three 4 mm-long screws holding down the upper midframe. Easy does it—just a gentle twist to free it up.

– Slide the point of a spudger into the notch on the right side of the upper midframe and gently pry upward to pop the clips loose. Once it’s free, lift out the upper midframe. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the right 5G antenna flex cable from the motherboard. No need for brute force—just a little finesse!

– With tweezers in hand, give that cable a gentle bend to keep it clear of the motherboard. Nice and tidy!

– Gently lift and unplug the side button flex cable from the motherboard. Be careful, it’s like a little dance move, but with wires.

– Now, carefully bend the cable out of the motherboard’s way. Think of it as giving your device a little more breathing room.

– Lift up and unplug that front-facing camera flex cable from the motherboard—like you’re disconnecting a tiny phone call.

– Gently nudge the cable aside so it’s not blocking the motherboard’s path.

– Gently lift and pop off the upper 5G antenna cable from the motherboard—like unplugging a tiny, high-tech seatbelt!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the corner of the 5G millimeter wave antenna module—think of it as giving it a little encouragement.

– Lift out the 5G antenna module like you’re removing a VIP from a party.

– When putting things back together, start by snapping the 5G antenna connector in place to line it up right, then press the rest of the module down so it sticks and stays put.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the two screws holding the motherboard and camera assembly in place.

– One screw is 4 mm long.

– The other is 3.4 mm long.

– Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and give it a gentle pry to loosen it from the phone body. Once it’s loose, carefully lift out the motherboard assembly. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– You made it! Compare your shiny new replacement part to the original to make sure everything is in order. You might need to swap over some extra components or〖remove any adhesive backing from the Disney new part〗 before extend installing.

– <|start_header_id|>Now it’s time〖to　ｌ put everything back together again〗. Just follow the steps above in reverse order, nice and easy.

– Give yourself a high-five! After you’ve finished the repair, head over to our testing guide to make sure everything is working smoothly.

– Don’t forget to responsibly recycle your old parts. Find an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give them a visit.

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t worry! Check out our Answers community for some troubleshooting tips. And if you’re really stuck, remember you can always schedule a repair with the pros at Salvation Repair.

–

– Warm up that iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the back cover for a solid two minutes. Patience is key, and soon you’ll be on your way to a successful repair!

– Glide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep your pick chilling in the seam to stop the adhesive from sticking itself back together.

– Warm up the left edge of the back cover for two minutes with your heated iOpener. Let it get nice and toasty!

– Once the pick is slid under the edge of the glass, tilt it downward and work it in further to break free the back cover’s adhesive. Keep at it gently—you’re on your way to opening it up. If you need help along the way, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently slide your pick along the left edge of the phone to loosen the back cover’s adhesive. Keep the pick in place under the left edge of the glass to prevent the adhesive from resealing. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up the right edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes—like giving your device a cozy spa moment.

– Stick a suction cup onto the back of the phone, right near the middle of the right edge—nice and close to the corner for leverage.

– Pull gently but firmly on the suction cup to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame—no need to yank, steady wins the race.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap to start prying it open, and get ready to keep the momentum going.

– Warm up the top edge of the back cover with a heated iOpener for about two minutes. Keep it cozy enough to loosen things up, but not so hot that you get a surprise burn. If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take your pick and cruise along the right edge, swinging up and around the top right corner like a pro.

– Keep sliding along the top edge, making your way to the left side, until the back cover is fully freed from its sticky situation.

– Gently lift up the back cover. If it’s feeling clingy, grab those opening picks and give any leftover adhesive a little slice.

– Take off the back cover and set it aside.

– When you’re putting things back together:

– Now’s a great time to power up your phone and check that everything’s working. Make sure to shut it down completely before sealing things up again.

– If you spot any sticky adhesive chunks, nab them with tweezers (or your fingers). Heat can help if the adhesive’s being stubborn.

– Using custom-cut adhesive? Follow the guide for that.

– Using double-sided tape? There’s a guide for that too.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully lift up the motherboard bracket, unhooking it from the plastic midframe. Easy does it—no wrestling required!

– Carefully lift the motherboard bracket to reveal the orange battery connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the battery connector to disconnect it. Take it easy—you got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the wireless charging coil connector—no need for brute force, just a smooth lift!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the wireless charging coil away from the device—think of it as peeling a sticker, but way cooler.

– Take out the wireless charging coil and set it aside like the tech trophy it is.

– When putting things back together, reconnect the charging coil and battery connectors first, then secure the motherboard bracket screws to get everything lined up nicely. Press the coil pad down firmly so it sticks like it means it.

– Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out the five 4 mm screws holding the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Let’s make those screws history!

– Grab a spudger or tweezers and dive into the upper left notch of the midframe. Gently pry it up—those sneaky clips will pop right off.

– Lift out the loudspeaker and lower midframe. Nice work!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up those main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard at the bottom of your device. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to reconnect those connectors, take a moment to align them just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If things get misaligned, those little pins can bend, and we definitely don’t want that. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up the main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard. Take it slow—these connectors like a gentle touch!

– Lift up the main and auxiliary flex cables with care, and set them aside like you’re handling secret ninja scrolls.

– Gently pry up and unplug the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Pop a spudger under the main display flex cable and gently lift it off the motherboard—like you’re unplugging a stubborn headphone jack.

– Carefully lift and bend the display along with the left 5G antenna flex cables to clear the path for the motherboard and battery.

– Drop 1-2 drops of high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the little gaps between the frame and the edges of the battery. It’s like giving your device a refreshing drink!

– Now, let it chill for a minute to give the isopropyl alcohol some time to work its magic on that sticky adhesive.

– Stick a suction cup right in the middle of the battery, then brace the top and bottom of your device against your work surface with one hand while pulling gently on the suction handle with the other. When you see the battery start to lift away from the device, you’re good to go to the next step. Keep in mind, patience is key—gentle, steady pulls over time work better than brute force. Pull on the suction cup with consistent pressure for about 15 seconds each time. If the battery refuses to budge, try adding a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol along the top, left, and right edges, wait a minute for it to soak in, then give it another gentle tug. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now it’s time to get that battery out – start by slipping an opening pick under the bottomsolid edge of the battery and give it a gentle twist to! loosen up the adhesive that’s holding it! in place.

– Double-check your shiny new part against the old one—sometimes a little sticker or leftover piece needs a home on the new guy before you install.

– Ready to put everything back together? Just flip through the steps backward and you’re golden.

– Give your battery a fresh start with a cycle reset and calibration. Your device will thank you.

– When it’s time to part ways with old electronic bits, recycle them responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified location.

– Hit a snag? Our Answers community is standing by with troubleshooting tips, or you can always schedule a repair if you want some backup.