Author: Ralph Harris

– Grab that iOpener and give it a little warm-up! Stick it on the left edge of your device for a cozy two minutes. You’re doing great!

– While the adhesive is doing its thing and loosening up, keep these sensitive spots in mind before you start prying:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Prop up your iPad so it sits evenly between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the center of the left side—one toward the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create a strong seal.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree turn clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch a bit.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a little and realign the arms.

– Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen isn’t heating up like you’d hoped, grab a hair dryer and give that left edge of the iPad a gentle warm-up.

– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp gives you enough space to work with.

– Feel free to skip the next step.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick gently along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that stubborn glue away.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to start separating the adhesive. Take it slow, we’re in no rush!

– Once you’ve got the pick in the top-left corner, leave it there to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. It’s like holding the door open so it doesn’t close on you.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let’s get that glue nice and toasty!

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause just before you hit the front camera. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the pick in until just the tip is between the digitizer and the frame—no rush, just a light touch.

– Now, carefully move the pick above the front camera to start breaking that adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera, then move on to the next step when you’re ready.

– Pop the pick back in and slide it over to the top-right corner of your gadget to fully break free the top adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Keep that pick nestled in the top-right corner to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to soften things up.

– Give that pick a little spin around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it in until it reaches the middle of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the device for about two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic!

– Gently glide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to peel away that pesky adhesive.

– Keep the pick in its cozy spot at the bottom-left corner before you dive into the next step.

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the little gap you’ve just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, but remember to stop just shy of the home button.

– Now, let that pick chill to the left of the home button before you move on!

– Pop an opening pick into the gap you’ve just made. Don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds!

– Gently slide the pick underneath the home button, angling it toward the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be between the digitizer and the frame, so be careful not to push too hard.

– Grab the pick and gently slide it towards the home button to fully detach the bottom adhesive. Easy does it!

– Leave the pick right of the home button and move on when you’re ready to roll.

– Warm up that iOpener and place it gently on the right edge of your device for a cool two minutes. Relax and let the heat work its magic.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, while also saying goodbye to the last bits of adhesive that are holding it in place.

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad a bit more.

– Gently support the digitizer and carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to help you break through the last bit of adhesive. Take it slow and steady – you’ve got this!

– After you’ve successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad. We’re getting there!

– As you put everything back together, take a moment to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if it’s making a return appearance—using some isopropyl alcohol. When it’s time to seal the deal, replace the old adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly tucked away under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. We want everything to fit just right!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep track of every single screw as you go—each one needs to go back exactly where it came from to keep your device happy and safe.

– Make sure to peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to them without trouble.

– Use the flat side of a spudger to gently lift the LCD just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.

– Flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, lifting it near the camera and letting it roll over to the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3mm-long screw holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Once that’s done, you’re one step closer to getting things back in action!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker right there while you continue working.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those screws! Unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift off the display cable bracket. It’s a simple move, just take your time and be careful not to tug too hard.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the LCD cable connector to pop it loose. Take your time, no rush!

– When it’s time to reconnect, start by aligning one side and giving it a gentle press until you hear that satisfying click. Then, repeat for the other side.

– Avoid pressing down on the middle. If the connector’s not lined up just right, the pins could bend, and that’s a one-way ticket to trouble. Stay patient!

– Carefully lift the LCD off completely and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the tape that’s protecting the home button cable ZIF connector. Take it slow, and you’ll be just fine.

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to carefully pry them up and disconnect.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently work your way under the vibration isolator in the bottom-right corner. Don’t rush, take your time!

– Carefully lift and remove the vibration isolator. It should come off easily once you’ve got it loose.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift that home button cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Step one: Remove the front panel assembly. This is your first move to get the ball rolling.

– Having issues with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch inputs on your new screen? No worries! A super thin layer of insulating tape (Kapton tape works like a charm) on the highlighted areas at the back of the panel should do the trick. Most replacement screens come with the right insulation, so you might not even need this step, but it’s good to know just in case.

– When you’re getting ready to put things back together, make sure to clean off any old adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth, and give those glued areas a good clean. This ensures the new adhesive will stick like glue (literally).

– Once that’s done, give the iPad a quick function test to make sure everything’s working as it should. Then, apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using the guide for display adhesive application. Now you’re ready to seal it up tight!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the upper component bracket.

– Grab some tweezers or your fingers and gently lift that upper component bracket right off the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the front camera cable press connector and give it a little lift to disconnect it. You’re doing great!

– Slide an opening pick gently between the front camera shell and the frame.

– Gently glide your pick around the edge of the camera shell to loosen the sticky adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently slide in the opening pick to pop off the front camera shell from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Now, go ahead and lift off that front camera shell. Easy peasy!

– Slide a spudger gently between the front camera and the microphone assembly.

– Carefully pry up to loosen the sticky adhesive holding the front camera in place.

– Lift out the front camera and set it aside.

– Gently use the flat end of the spudger to lift and disconnect the headphone jack’s press connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the headphone jack cable from the frame using tweezers or your fingers—easy does it!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle that 4.2 mm-long screw holding the headphone jack snugly in the frame. Time to get that jack free!

– Now that you’ve successfully put everything back together, just retrace your steps in reverse. Easy peasy!

– Have some e-waste that needs a new home? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s the responsible thing to do!

– If things didn’t go quite as smoothly as you hoped, don’t sweat it! Give some basic troubleshooting a whirl, or pop into our iPad 8 Answers community for some friendly advice.

–

– Grab your iOpener and heat it up. Then, gently place it along the left edge of your device for two minutes. Let it work its magic, softening things up for the next step.

– While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t like being poked:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Gently pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Place something under your iPad to keep it nice and level between the suction cups.

– Position the suction cups on the left edge—one on top, the other on the bottom, right in the middle.

– Firmly hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down on the top cup to create a strong suction grip.

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place.

– Now, let’s get that handle spinning! Turn it clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you see those cups starting to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re staying in sync. If they start to go their own way, just loosen them a tad and get those arms back in line.

– Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive chill and create a little gap for you to work with.

– If the screen feels more like a chilly breeze than a warm hug, try warming up the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has done its job and there’s a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to get things moving.

– Feel free to skip the next step.

– Once your screen feels nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the border as you can get.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a little gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit sticky with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a pro.

– Gently slide that first opening pick up to the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive’s grip. You’re doing great!

– Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. Nice work!

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a little warm-up dance for about two minutes, then press it against the top edge of your device. It’s time to get things cozy!

– Swing that pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it down.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.

– Slide your pick back in and glide it over to the top-right corner of your device to fully break free that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep that pick in the top-right corner like a trusty sidekick to stop the adhesive from sealing back up.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let’s get that adhesive nice and toasty!

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the middle of the iPad’s right edge like a pro.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick in place down in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick into the gap you made at the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the pick across the antenna, just before you reach the home button.

– Leave the pick just to the left of the home button, then you’re all set to continue.

– Slide an opening pick into the space you just made—nice and easy!

– Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip is snugly between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it towards the home button, making sure to completely separate that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Once the pick is in place, leave it just to the right of the home button before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently twist those two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, helping to break free the last bits of adhesive along the way. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to help loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

– While gently holding the digitizer in place, use an opening pick to sneak between the two display cables and carefully break free the last bits of adhesive. Keep it steady, you’re doing great!

– Once you’ve managed to separate all the sticky stuff, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– As you’re putting things back together, take a moment to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you’re reusing the digitizer, give it a good wipe too—with some isopropyl alcohol. Then, grab our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to replace it.

– When you’re reassembling the device, make sure to pay attention to the display cables. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out those four 4.3 mm-long screws holding the LCD to the frame. You’ve got this!

– As you work your magic, keep those screws organized and remember where each one belongs. This helps to keep your device safe and sound.

– Don’t forget to peel away any tape that might be hiding those LCD screws. We want everything to be clear and accessible!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD from its cozy spot just enough so you can snag it with your fingers.

– Give that LCD a little flip like you’re turning the pages of a good book, lifting it near the camera and spinning it over the home button end of the frame.

– Nestle the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface, giving you easy access to those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew that 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector tight to the logic board. Nice and easy, you’ve got this!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at a 35-degree angle. Take it slow and steady!

– Keep the battery blocker in place while you keep working. It’s your trusty sidekick now.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws holding the display cable bracket in place.

– Grab those trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift off the display cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the LCD cable press connector. It’s a bit like giving it a little hug to set it free!

– When you’re ready to reconnect it, make sure to align it just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same for the other side. Teamwork makes the dream work!

– Remember, no need to press in the middle! If things get a little out of line, the pins could get bent, and we definitely don’t want that. Keep it aligned and happy!

– Carefully take the LCD off completely and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s covering the home button cable ZIF connector. You got this!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy peasy!

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently lift and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’ve got this!

– Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the vibration isolator located at the bottom-right corner of the device.

– Carefully lift and remove the vibration isolator.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t worry! You can fix this by placing a super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers come with this insulation built-in, so usually no extra tape is needed.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those sticky areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or above) using a lint-free cloth. This preps your iPad perfectly for fresh adhesive and helps it stick like a champ.

– Give your iPad a quick test to make sure all functions work, then apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those three little 1.4 mm screws out from the upper component bracket! You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift the upper component bracket off the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the front camera cable connector and carefully pop it up to disconnect it.

– Slide an opening pick gently between the front camera shell and the frame to get things moving.

– Gently glide that pick around the edges of the camera shell to break free the adhesive holding it tight. You’re almost there!

– Use your trusty opening pick to gently pry up and free the front camera shell from the frame. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, time to come out!’

– Once it’s loosened up, go ahead and remove the front camera shell. You’ve got this!

– Now that you’ve conquered the assembly, simply retrace your steps to put everything back together.

– Got some old gadgets lying around? Make sure to drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go quite as smoothly as you’d hoped, don’t fret! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot or reach out to our iPad 8 Answers community for a helping hand.

–

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left side of your device for two minutes to loosen things up.

– As the adhesive starts to give way, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set something under your iPad so it stays nice and level between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left side—one up top, one down low.

– Hold the bottom part of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top suction cup to get a good grip.

– Slide the blue handle forward to secure the arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you notice the suction cups starting to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.

– Take a moment and let the adhesive chill for about a minute to create a little breathing room.

– If your screen’s feeling a bit chilly, warm it up a touch by running a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– When the Anti-Clamp has opened up a nice gap, slip an opening pick underneath the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– Once the screen feels comfortably warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it firmly on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.

– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle, creating a small gap between the digitizer and the frame. Don’t rush; a little space is all you need.

– Now, carefully slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame. Take your time to get it in there without forcing it.

– Pop in a second opening pick right into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down toward the device’s bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep that glue from holding you back.

– Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your device to break that pesky adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick in the top-left corner to stop that adhesive from getting cozy again.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently twist the pick around the upper-left corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you hit the front camera — take it slow and steady!

– Gently pull the pick until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide that pick right above the front camera to help free the adhesive like a pro.

– Now, keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it toward the top-right corner of your device. This will fully separate the top adhesive like a charm.

– Once you’re there, leave the pick in the top-right corner. That’ll stop the adhesive from making a sneaky reappearance and sticking back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device. Let’s get that adhesive loosened up!

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it right down the middle of your iPad’s right edge like you’re giving it a little tickle.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic!

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick right there in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

– Pop in a new opening pick right where you just made that sweet gap along the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.

– Make sure to keep that pick on the left side of the home button before you carry on!

– Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick back in and nudge it gently towards the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.

– Let the pick chill just to the right of the home button before you move on.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just enough. This will help separate the last bit of adhesive, getting you closer to your goal!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– While holding the digitizer steady, carefully insert an opening pick between the two display cables to peel away the final bits of adhesive.

– After you’ve successfully peeled away all that stubborn adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down flat beside the iPad, just chilling out.

– As you put everything back together, take a moment to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re giving it a second life—with some isopropyl alcohol. Don’t forget to replace that adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those display cables when you’re reassembling the device! Make sure they are neatly tucked away under the LCD screen to keep everything safe and sound.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3mm screws holding the LCD in place. Nice and steady!

– Keep an eye on each screw as you go—make sure it finds its way back to the exact spot it came from. This will help prevent any mishaps with your device.

– Peel off any tape hiding those pesky LCD screws. You’ve got this!

– Grab a spudger and gently ease the LCD out of its cozy spot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip that LCD like you’re turning a page in your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the frame.

– Place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to give those display cables some breathing room.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Keep it safe!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle—smooth and steady wins the race.

– Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue working.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.

– Gently grab the display cable bracket with tweezers or your fingers and lift it out like a pro.

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently lift up the LCD cable press connector like you’re giving it a little hug!

– When it’s time to snap those press connectors back in, make sure to line them up just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then work your magic on the other side.

– Remember, no need to push down in the center! If things get a bit wonky and the connector isn’t aligned, you could accidentally bend the pins, and we definitely don’t want that!

– Carefully take off the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft surface that won’t leave any lint behind. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector snug and secure.

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under those two digitizer cable press connectors. Give them a little nudge to pop them up and disconnect. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the vibration isolator located in the bottom-right corner of your device. Be gentle—you’re just coaxing it out!

– Once you’ve raised it, go ahead and take out the vibration isolator. You’re one step closer to your device’s revival!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the frame like a pro.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with those annoying “ghost” or “phantom” touch inputs, try placing a super thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already have this covered, so usually no extra tape needed.

– When putting things back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad, then give the glued areas a good clean with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This step helps the new adhesive stick like a champ.

– Give your iPad a quick test to make sure everything is working, then apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three screws, each 1.4 mm long, that are holding the upper component bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab those trusty tweezers or use your fingers to gently lift away the upper component bracket from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the front camera cable connector and lift it up to disconnect it with a smooth move.

– Carefully slide an opening pick between the front camera housing and the frame to gently separate them.

– Gently slide your pick around the edge of the camera shell to break through the adhesive seal.

– Grab your opening pick and gently pry up to pop the front camera shell away from the frame.

– Now, go ahead and lift off that front camera shell!

– Slide a spudger in between the front camera and the microphone assembly.

– Gently pry upwards to break the front camera’s adhesive seal.

– Carefully lift out the front camera.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the headphone jack’s press connector.

– Do the same for the microphone assembly’s press connector.

– Gently lift the headphone jack away from the frame with your fingers, then tuck the cable to the side like a pro.

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently lift the rear camera’s press connector straight up to disconnect it. Easy does it!

– Gently remove any tape that’s keeping the button control cable ZIF connector under wraps.

– Gently lift the little hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle out that button control cable from the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel away any tape hiding the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

– Grab your trusty spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up that little hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the Smart Cover sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the coaxial cable from the left antenna. You’ve got this!

– Now, let’s do the same for the right antenna’s coaxial cable. Easy peasy!

– When you’re putting everything back together, those connectors can be a bit finicky. Just hold each one in position over its socket and give it a good push with the flat end of your spudger. You’ll hear a satisfying snap when it’s secure!

– Gently lift the right antenna cable and free it from its cozy spot.

– Gently peel the left antenna cable off the frame, following the bottom edge of the iPad. Take your time—patience is key!

– Grab that trusty flat end of a spudger and gently nudge the vibration isolator up from the bottom left corner of your iPad. It’s like giving it a little lift!

– Now, with the precision of a ninja, use your tweezers to pluck out the vibration isolator. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers or use your trusty fingernail to gently lift the tape that’s holding down the speaker connectors. It’s time to get that sound back in action!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up the little hinged locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors.

– Gently grab a pair of tweezers and slide the left and right speaker cables straight out from their ZIF connectors—smooth and steady wins the race!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its sharp end to gently pry up the Smart Connector coaxial cable. Aim for the spot closest to the connector to disconnect it with ease.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the Smart Connector cable’s connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the tape holding the Smart Connector cables to the frame—easy does it!

– Gently peel the Smart Connector cables off the frame, taking care not to rush it. Give it a little wiggle, and it’ll come free without a hitch!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those screws out! You’ll need to tackle four of them that are keeping the charging port snug in the frame:

– First up, two screws that are 2.2 mm long—easy peasy!

– And don’t forget the two slightly longer ones at 3.2 mm. You’ve got this!

– Heat up your iOpener and gently press it against the bottom, top, and logic board side of your iPad. Give each spot about 30 seconds to warm up, making sure it gets nice and toasty in all the right places.

– Slip an opening pick right under the charging port cable, just next to the port. Gently slide it towards the logic board to separate the adhesive.

– Gently coax the charging port out of its snug little home in the frame.

– Carefully slide an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and gently work it toward the board to slice through the adhesive holding it to the frame.

– Keep the pick in place to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.

– Pop that battery blocker out of its cozy spot!

– Gently slide an opening tool into the center of the logic board and apply a slow, steady pressure to lift it away from the frame. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty halberd spudger or an opening pick and give that stubborn adhesive a good slice to free the logic board from the frame. You’ve got this!

– First up, let’s liberate that logic board! Carefully remove it from its cozy spot.

– As you start putting everything back together, make sure there are no sneaky ribbon cables hiding under the logic board before you stick it down with glue.

– And don’t forget—while reassembling, grab some high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) to wipe away any leftover adhesive. Then, use strips of Tesa tape to give your Logic Board a solid hug to the chassis!

– Grab a strip of painter’s tape or Scotch tape, cutting it to match the width of your iPad.

– Stick the bottom edge of the tape strip onto the back case right above the speakers and bottom antennas.

– Press down the top edge of the tape over the lower components to keep any cables out of the way when removing the battery.

– Now, repeat the taping process for the top components. Make sure everything sticks securely so you’re on the right track!

– Make sure to rock those safety glasses when you’re working with that adhesive remover!

– Skip the contact lenses for now—safety first, right?

– Your kit comes with protective gloves. If you’re worried about skin irritation, go ahead and slip those gloves on before we dive in!

– Take off the black rubber cap from your adhesive remover bottle.

– Grab some scissors and snip off the sealed tip of the applicator.

– The red boxes highlight where you’ll find the adhesive strips that hold the battery snugly to the back case. Time to get that battery free and clear!

– Drop a little bit of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery. Let it work its magic, making it easier to separate things when you’re ready.

– Pour a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the lower edge of the battery to loosen things up a bit.

– Gently drip a few drops of adhesive remover or some strong isopropyl alcohol right between the two battery cells to loosen things up.

– Drop a few splashes of adhesive remover or some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the right edge of the battery. This will help loosen things up a bit.

– Gently drop a few drops of adhesive remover or some strong isopropyl alcohol along the top edge of the battery to loosen things up.

– Slide a plastic card gently into the bottom right corner of the battery to get things moving.

– Slide the plastic card under the right edge, aiming for the center like a pro.

– Push that card in as far as you can go beneath the battery to slice through the adhesive.

– Pull the plastic card out and admire your handiwork.

– Slide the plastic card under the battery connector, pushing it in as far as it will go.

– Keep the plastic card in place for now.

– Slide another plastic card just above the battery connector, pushing it in as far as it will comfortably go.

– Slide the plastic card out from under the battery connector and tuck it beneath the bottom edge of the battery to gently pry it up.

– Gently glide that trusty plastic card along the bottom edge of the battery to slice through the adhesive strip. You’ve got this!

– When you hit the left corner of the bottom edge, slide that card in as far as it will go. Keep going, you’re almost there!

– Time to get that battery out! Start by sliding a plastic card above the battery connector right under the upper edge of the battery. You’re doing great!

– Now, gently glide the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to slice through the adhesive strip. Keep it steady and you’re almost there!