Author: Ralph Harris

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the device’s left edge for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– As you let that adhesive take its sweet time loosening up, keep an eye out for these sensitive spots that are a bit prying-shy:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give the blue handle a little tug backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms. It’s like a gentle pull, no force needed!

– Place something under your iPad so it stays perfectly level between the suction cups. We want this setup to be steady as a rock.

– Position the suction cups along the left edge—one at the top and one at the bottom. Make sure they’re about in the middle, but don’t stress the details.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp secure, then press down on the top cup with a solid, steady push to create the suction. You got this!

– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch out a bit.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay perfectly aligned. If they start to drift, just loosen them a touch and straighten those arms back up.

– Hang tight for a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a cozy opening gap.

– If your screen isn’t warming up enough, feel free to give it a little love with a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.

– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice gap for you.

– No need to worry about the next step—just skip it!

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– If the opening pick starts sticking to the adhesive, simply ‘roll’ the pick along the iPad’s side to keep separating that stubborn glue.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from getting cozy again.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let’s get that thing nice and toasty!

– Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. Take it slow, you’ve got this!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, stopping just shy of the front camera. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the pick out so only the tip is left nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick just above the front camera to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Leave the pick resting near the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and slide it up towards the top-right corner of the device. This will completely separate the stubborn adhesive.

– Leave the pick in the top-right corner for now to stop the adhesive from re-sticking, giving you a breather before the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.

– Grab a new opening pick and slide it right into the heart of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.

– Keep the pick in place at the corner before moving on to the next step.

– Pop a new opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.

– Keep that pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. You’re doing great!

– Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame—you’re almost there!

– Slide the pick in gently towards the home button to peel away that stubborn bottom adhesive. It should separate smoothly, no sweat!

– Leave the pick snugly on the right side of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things loosened up.

– Give those two opening picks a twist at the left corners of your iPad to gently lift the digitizer a bit, while waving goodbye to the last bits of adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. Keep it steady and take your time—you’ve got this!

– While holding the digitizer steady, carefully insert an opening pick between the two display cables to gently break free the last bit of adhesive.

– Once you’ve successfully peeled off all the sticky bits, gently flip the digitizer open like a book, and lay it down flat, parallel to the iPad.

– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to tidy up any leftover adhesive on the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap out the old adhesive for fresh strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Be cautious with the display cables during reassembly. Ensure they’re folded neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any unwanted damage.

– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape that’s covering those pesky LCD screws. Let’s get those screws exposed and ready for action!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. You’ve got this!

– Slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.

– Gently wiggle the spudger to loosen the adhesive without rushing.

– Now, let’s tackle the top-left section of the LCD—just like we did before!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its slot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the LCD over like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and rotating it over the home button side of the frame.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to safely access the display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector, angling it about 35 degrees. Think of it like a mini-surfboard under a connector, just at a cool angle.

– Once it’s in place, leave the battery blocker where it is while you continue working. It’s your trusty sidekick now, no need to move it around!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe!

– Carefully use tweezers or your fingers to lift and remove the display cable bracket.

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry up the LCD cable press connector to disconnect it.

– To reattach those press connectors, start by carefully aligning one side and pressing down until you hear a satisfying click, then repeat on the other side.

– Avoid pressing down on the center. If the connector’s off-kilter, the pins could bend, and that’s a one-way ticket to permanent damage.

– Carefully lift the LCD off and gently lay it face down on a clean, soft surface free from any lint. Treat it like you’re placing it on a cozy bed – just a little extra care goes a long way!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s cozying up to the home button cable ZIF connector. You’re doing great!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

– Grab your trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Just a little wiggle, and it’ll pop right out. No rush, you’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’re doing great!

– Grab that trusty flat end of your spudger and gently lift up the vibration isolator nestled right below the SIM card reader. Easy peasy!

– Now, go ahead and remove the vibration isolator. You’re doing great!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel the home button cable away from the back case. Take your time, it’ll pop off smoothly!

– First things first, let’s get that front panel assembly off. It’s time to break free!

– If your new display is acting a little quirky with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t fret! A simple fix is to add a thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. And good news! Our replacement digitizers usually come with the right insulation, so you might not need to add any tape at all.

– As you start putting things back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This step is key for ensuring the new adhesive sticks like a champ.

– Once that’s done, give your iPad a quick functionality test. Then, apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy display adhesive application guide before sealing it all up tight.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift the tiny, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Nice and easy!

– Slide the pointed end of a spudger under the left antenna cable and gently lift it straight up to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Lift the left antenna cable away from the back case with care.

– Gently continue peeling the left antenna cable off the rear case, following the bottom edge of your iPad. Take it slow and steady – no need to rush here!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the vibration isolator in the bottom left corner of the iPad to lift it up.

– Grab your tweezers and carefully pull out the vibration isolator from its spot.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove the three screws holding that right antenna in place.

– One 2.3 mm screw, just chilling there, ready to come out.

– Two 1.4 mm screws, a little shorter but still ready to go.

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket. Take it slow, there’s no rush!

– Move the pick toward the charging port to cut through that sticky adhesive. Easy does it!

– Now, gently push the bracket away from the speaker to lift it off the tape underneath. A little wiggle and it should pop right off.

– Place an opening pick gently between the antenna and speaker assembly, like you’re making room for a surprise gift!

– Slide that pick under the antenna to carefully slice through the foam adhesive, just like butter.

– Use your trusty tweezers, or if you’re feeling extra, your fingers, to lift off the left antenna and give it a little wiggle out.

– Grab a pair of tweezers or use your trusty fingernail to carefully lift the tape that’s keeping the speaker connectors snug. It’s like unwrapping a little surprise!

– Grab your spudger, opening tool, or just your trusty fingernail, and gently lift up the small, hinged locking flap on the left speaker cable ZIF connector. A little wiggle should do the trick!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the left speaker cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and twist out the 2.3 mm screw holding the left speaker in place.

– Gently peel off the tape that’s holding the speaker in place on the back case.

– Slide the flat end of your spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.

– Gently nudge the speaker away from the rear case.

– Carefully push the speaker out from under the little shelf on the rear case.

– Carefully take out the left speaker.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Gently slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Place your iPad on something stable, making sure it sits flat between the suction cups.

– Position the suction cups about halfway down the left edge—one on the top and the other on the bottom.

– Hold the Anti-Clamp steady with one hand and give a firm press on the top suction cup to create a good seal.

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.

– Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until you feel those cups starting to stretch – it’s like a mini workout for your hands!

– Keep an eye on those suction cups; they should stay in perfect harmony. If they start to dance out of alignment, just loosen them a bit and guide those arms back to their happy place.

– Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and gently heat along the left edge of the iPad to help things along.

– When the Anti-Clamp opens up a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to start prying it open.

– Skip the next step.

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Gently lift the screen with the suction handle just enough to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the little gap you’ve made between the digitizer and the frame.

– Pop a second opening pick into that lovely gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner of the device to break that adhesive seal.

– Keep that pick snugly in the bottom-left corner to ward off any adhesive re-sealing attempts!

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation moving smoothly.

– Gently slide your first opening pick toward the top-left corner to start loosening that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for two minutes. Let’s get that heat working its magic!

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the top edge of your device, but hold up just before you hit the front camera. We don’t want any accidental selfies!

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick above the front camera to break that sticky adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward.

– Slide that pick back in and glide it over to the top-right corner of your device to totally break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep that pick in the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to rejoin the party.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive like a pro.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the center of the iPad’s right edge like a pro!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break the adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

– Keep that pick snug in the corner as you gear up for the next step. You’re doing great!

– Slide a shiny new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.

– Make sure to leave the pick to the left of the home button as you move on to the next step.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle the pick under the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame. Easy peasy!

– Slide the pick back in and gently wiggle it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.

– Gently twist the two opening picks in the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to break free the last stubborn bits of adhesive along the way. Keep it cool and steady, you’re doing great!

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to peel away more of that stubborn adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. Patience is key!

– As you hold the digitizer steady, gently slip an opening pick between the two display cables to break free that last bit of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble; make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and gently peel away any tape that’s hiding those LCD screws. Let’s get to the good stuff!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.3mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. Nice and easy, just give it a twist and you’ll be good to go!

– Slide a spudger gently between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.

– Carefully nudge the spudger to loosen the adhesive bit by bit.

– Now, let’s tackle the top-left section of the LCD just like we did before!

– Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge the LCD out of its snug little home just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.

– Now, flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over toward the home button end of the frame.

– Place the LCD down on a tidy, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Unscrew that 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector down to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle, like you’re tucking in a cozy blanket.

– Keep that battery blocker in position while you tackle the rest of the repair!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty tweezers or simply use your fingers to gently lift off the display cable bracket.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that LCD cable press connector. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to re-attach those press connectors, just align it carefully and give one side a little push until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same for the other side!

– Just a friendly reminder: avoid pressing down in the middle. If things get a bit off-kilter, you might bend the pins, and nobody wants that kind of drama!

– Carefully lift off the LCD and lay it screen-side down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab some tweezers and carefully lift the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps.

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable free from the ZIF connector, pulling it straight out like a pro!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to lift and unplug them without any drama.

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the vibration isolator sitting just below the SIM card reader to lift it up.

– Take out the vibration isolator carefully.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t panic! Adding a super thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape to the marked spots on the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers come with this insulation already, so you probably won’t need extra tape.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those sticky spots with high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or above) and a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface perfectly for fresh adhesive and helps everything stick like it should.

– Give your iPad a full test to make sure all functions are working, then apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.

– Gently nudge that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector up with the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable right out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Slide the sharp end of a spudger underneath the left antenna cable and gently lift it straight up to disconnect. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the back casing, giving it a little room to breathe.

– Keep peeling that left antenna cable off the rear case, making your way along the bottom edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!

– Grab your spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the vibration isolator from the bottom left corner of the iPad.

– Now, carefully pick up the vibration isolator using a pair of tweezers. Easy does it!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and loosen the three screws holding down the right antenna.

– One screw measuring 2.3 mm long

– Two screws each 1.4 mm long

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—easy does it!

– Work the pick toward the charging port, slicing through the adhesive like a pro.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker to free it from the tape hiding underneath.

– Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna and the speaker assembly.

– Gently glide the pick under the antenna to slice through the foam adhesive like a champ.

– Grab some tweezers or just your fingers to lift the left antenna out with ease.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– As you let the adhesive take its time to loosen up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that need some extra love while prying:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set something underneath your iPad so it sits evenly between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one towards the top and one near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top cup to create suction.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups — they should stay lined up. If they start to wander off, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before moving on.

– Take a breather for about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap.

– If your screen feels more like a chilly breeze than warm toast, grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the left edge of the iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and opened up a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Go ahead and skip this step.

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it right on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to wiggle open a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame to keep things moving.

– Pop in a second opening pick where you made that first little gap.

– Gently slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner to help loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Leave the pick hanging out in that corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.

– If your opening pick gets a bit clingy with the adhesive, just give it a smooth ‘roll’ along the iPad’s edge to keep the separation groove going.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to break through the adhesive. Go slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Once you’re in there, leave the pick in the top-left corner. This will keep the adhesive from sealing itself back up, making your life a whole lot easier.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device, letting it sit for a couple of minutes to soften things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen that adhesive grip.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to stop just before you get to the front camera. Take it slow, we don’t want any accidental bumps!

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide that pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding things together.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it up towards the top-right corner to fully free the top adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in that corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Grab your trusty iOpener and warm it up. Then, press it gently against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. This little heat-up session will help loosen things up so the next steps are smoother. Keep it steady, and you’re on the right track!

– Gently rotate the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. Take your time, and it should come apart easily!

– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad’s right edge like you’re unlocking a treasure chest!

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes. Let it work its magic and soften things up for the next step.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the corner before moving on to the next move.

– Pop a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you hit the home button.

– Keep the pick resting to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Gently slide an opening pick into that little gap you’ve made. You’re doing great!

– Now, carefully maneuver the pick under the home button, gliding it toward the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame—keep it cool and steady!

– Pop that pick back in place and gently slide it towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive.

– Leave the pick hanging out just to the right of the home button, ready for the next move.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the right edge of your device for about two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic and loosen things up.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, breaking the last bits of adhesive holding it down.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer, working your way up to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

– Gently support the digitizer, then carefully slide an opening pick between the display cables to release the last bit of adhesive. A little patience here goes a long way!

– Once you’ve successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, swing open the digitizer like it’s a book and lay it beside the iPad, just chilling out.

– As you put everything back together, give that frame a little TLC by cleaning up any leftover adhesive—don’t forget to check the digitizer if you’re reusing it! A splash of isopropyl alcohol will do wonders. When it’s time to stick it all back, use our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those display cables when you’re reassembling! Make sure they’re neatly tucked under the LCD screen, so they don’t get squished and cause any trouble.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Take your time – you’re doing great!

– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail and gently lift up that tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. It’s like a little flap party waiting to happen—just make sure to keep it nice and controlled!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end underneath the vibration isolator that’s hanging out under the SIM card reader. It’s like giving it a little lift!

– Once it’s popped up, go ahead and remove the vibration isolator. You’re making great progress!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the rear case. Take it slow—no need to rush here!

– Start by removing the front panel assembly. It’s a bit like peeling off a sticker, but with a bit more precision!

– If your new display is giving you trouble with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch inputs, don’t panic! Just add a layer of thin insulating tape (like Kapton tape) to the marked areas on the back of the panel. But don’t worry, most replacement digitizers come with the right insulation already in place, so you might not need to do anything extra.

– Before you put everything back together, take a moment to clean off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to scrub down those glued areas. This little step helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures everything sticks just right.

– Now, test your iPad’s functions to make sure everything is working. After that, use the display adhesive strips and follow our guide to apply them to the back of the display. Once that’s done, you’re almost there—just seal it up and enjoy your newly fixed device!

– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers, and peel away any tape hiding those LCD screws. It’s like unwrapping a gift, but with a little tech twist!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.3mm screws that are keeping the LCD screen in place.

– Slide a spudger gently between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.

– Slowly pry apart with the spudger to break the adhesive seal.

– Go ahead and do the same thing for the top-left corner of the LCD.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD out of its cozy spot just enough to get a grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip that LCD like you’re turning a page in your favorite book, lifting from the camera side and rotating it over to the home button end of the frame.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables without a hitch.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Keep it safe!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle—smooth moves only!

– Keep that blocker right where it is while you carry on with the next steps.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out those three tiny screws, each just 1.4 mm long, that are holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers or use your fingers to carefully pop off the display cable bracket. It’s like a gentle tug, but make sure you’re steady!

– Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the LCD cable press connector.

– To put those press connectors back in place, carefully line one side up, give it a little press until you hear a satisfying click, then repeat on the other side.

– Avoid pressing down in the middle. If it’s not aligned just right, you might bend the pins, and that could lead to some serious damage.

– Time to put it all back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you’ll be good to go.

– Got some old tech lying around? Don’t forget to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Feeling stuck? No worries! Dive into some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our iPad 8 Answers community for a helping hand.

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– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– While you’re giving the adhesive some time to chill and loosen up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t appreciate being pried too hard:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms and let the magic begin!

– Nestle your iPad on a surface so it sits comfortably between the suction cups—like it’s getting a cozy hug.

– Set those suction cups near the center of the left edge—one on top and one on the bottom, nice and snug.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give the top cup a firm press to create a perfect seal.

– Grab that blue handle and pull it forward to lock the arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise twist, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch nicely.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups so they stay lined up. If they start to drift out of sync, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.

– Hold tight for a minute to give that adhesive a little time to let go and open up a gap.

– If your screen’s not warming up enough, try using a hair dryer to gently heat the left edge of the iPad.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has created a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Feel free to skip the next step, you’ve got this!

– After the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle near the left edge, as close to the border as you can get.

– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to keep things moving.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.

– If your opening pick gets a bit clingy with the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep on breaking that adhesive loose.

– Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and stick together again.

– Warm up that iOpener and stick it to the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to stop just before you get to the front camera.

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is sitting between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick above the front camera, carefully separating the adhesive as you go.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera for the next steps.

– Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the device’s top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick planted in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from sneaking back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it rest on the right edge of your device for a couple of minutes. This will give it a nice, gentle heat-up to get the job done.

– Gently slide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and gently slide it halfway along the right edge of your iPad.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently slide that bottom-left pick into the corner to break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep the pick snug in the corner while you gear up for the next step.

– Pop a fresh opening pick into that gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up right before you reach the home button.

– Keep the pick resting to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Pop an opening pick into that sneaky little gap you’ve just created.

– Now, slide the pick under the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner, ensuring that only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick back in and glide it toward the home button to fully break free of that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Before moving on, keep the pick snugly positioned to the right of the home button.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently twist the opening picks into the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, while you cleverly tackle the last of that pesky adhesive.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.

– Keep a steady hand on the digitizer while you gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive.

– After you’ve cleverly peeled away all that sticky stuff, think of the digitizer as a book and gently swing it open, laying it down flat next to the iPad.

– When you’re putting everything back together, give the leftover adhesive on the frame—and on the digitizer if you’re reusing it—a little scrub with isopropyl alcohol. Don’t forget to use our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things nice and secure.

– Keep an eye on those display cables as you wrap up the reassembly. Make sure they’re tucked away neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps!

– Grab some tweezers or use your fingers to gently peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws. It’s a small step, but it’ll make the next one much easier!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. A little twist here, and you’re on your way!

– Gently slide a spudger into the gap between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.

– Take your time and pry carefully with the spudger to peel away the adhesive.

– Now, do the same thing for the top-left corner of the LCD. You got this!

– Take the flat side of your spudger and gently ease the LCD out of its snug little home, just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, carefully flip the LCD like you’re turning a page of a book—start from the side near the camera and smoothly rotate it over towards the home button end of the frame.

– Place the LCD on a clean, soft surface that’s free of lint, so you can get to the display cables without a hitch.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the 2.3mm screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board.