Author: Ralph Harris

– Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave and get ready to warm it up!

– Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a cozy spa day for your gadget!

– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to chill out.

– Grab the iOpener by one of its flat ends and carefully take it out of the microwave—steer clear of that hot, steamy middle!

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.

– Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it’s bubbling away, turn off the heat.

– Gently lower your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged, giving it a cozy soak.

– Using tongs, carefully lift the warmed-up iOpener out of the water. Hot stuff coming through!

– Give your iOpener a good dry with a towel—let’s keep it tidy!

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If you find it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the water boiling and soaking process for another 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!

– If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering further and protect your hands while you work by adding some tape to it.

– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips across the iPad’s display, covering the entire front. It’s like giving it a little armor!

– Now, follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass starts to break, it might keep cracking as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the broken pieces.

– Grab the tag and gently place the warmed-up iOpener on the left side of the iPad, right next to the home button assembly.

– Give the iOpener a minute to work its magic and soften that sticky adhesive hiding under the glass.

– As you dive into these steps, be sure to tread lightly around these sensitive spots:

– Front-facing camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle back to release the grip on the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Prop up your iPad with something underneath so it sits evenly between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one toward the top, the other at the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top suction cup to create a good seal.

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place!

– Now, spin that handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch. You’ve got this!

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to wander off, just loosen them a tad and guide those arms back into position.

– Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive do its thing and open up a little gap.

– If your screen’s feeling lukewarm, grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPad a little love to warm it up.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and made enough space, gently slide an opening pick under the screen.

– Feel free to skip the next two steps if you’re cruising ahead.

– Place the suction cup gently about halfway up the heated side, like you’re giving your device a gentle hug.

– Hold the iPad steady with one hand, then gently pull up on the suction cup to give the front panel a little nudge away from the rear case.

– Make sure the suction cup sits flat on the screen for a nice, tight seal. A solid grip is key!

– Slide an opening pick into the little gap you made with the suction cup. Go slow and easy!

– Lift the suction cup’s plastic tab to break the vacuum and gently remove it from the screen assembly.

– Heat up that iOpener again and swap it out for the new one!

– Slide a second opening pick right next to the first one and glide it smoothly down the iPad’s edge, gently breaking the adhesive seal as you go.

– Keep sliding the opening pick down the edge of the display to loosen that sticky adhesive.

– If the pick gets stuck, just roll it gently along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive from holding you back.

– Grab that first pick you popped in and slide it upwards towards the top corner of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– If you spot the tip of the pick poking through the front glass, no need to freak out—just gently pull it back a smidge. You’re probably in the clear, but let’s avoid this if we can, as it might leave a bit of sticky adhesive on the LCD that’s a pain to clean up.

– Warm up the iOpener and set it on the top edge of the iPad, right above the front-facing camera. Let’s get that warmth working for us!

– Gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner of your iPad to loosen and lift the adhesive like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, making sure to stop just before the camera to keep things safe.

– Gently pull the pick out just a bit, then carefully slide its tip along the top edge right over the front-facing camera area.

– Keep that opening pick tucked in just past the front-facing camera—steady does it!

– Grab a second pick, slide it in to the left of the camera, then glide it all the way to the corner to finish slicing through the adhesive on that side.

– Slide that trusty pick deeper into the iPad and gently nudge it away from the camera towards the corner. You’ve got this!

– Keep those three picks snugly in the corners of your iPad to stop the front panel adhesive from getting too cozy again.

– Give your iOpener another warm hug and then set it on the last side of the iPad, right where the volume and lock buttons hang out.

– Gently slide the opening pick around the top right corner of your iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the middle of the right edge of the iPad and glide it along to loosen the adhesive like a pro.

– Keep those opening picks in place and lay the warmed-up iOpener right on the home button end of your iPad. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the lower left pick over to the lower left corner to slice through the adhesive chillin’ there.

– Keep that pick planted in the corner—no sneaky prying past it, and definitely don’t yank it out of the iPad.

– Next up, we’ll guide you exactly where to pry and heat so you don’t accidentally mess with any sensitive parts. Stick to the plan!

– Grab a fresh pick and carefully glide it over the left antenna, but stop just before you reach the home button.

– Keep the pick in place while you move on to the next step.

– Grab a fresh pick and slide it in right next to the last one you used. You’re doing great!

– Gently glide across the home button and the right-hand antenna with just the tip of your pick to peel away that stubborn adhesive. Nice and easy!

– Now that the adhesive is feeling a bit shy, grab your trusty pick and slide it into the right-hand corner. Gently glide it to the left, but be careful not to bump into the Home button—stop just before you reach it!

– Heat up your iOpener again and give the volume control side of the iPad some extra love by applying it once more. Warm it up and let that adhesive work its magic!

– On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you’ll find a pick tucked into each corner. Give those picks a little twist to gently lift the glass, easing the last bit of adhesive along the edge near the display cable.

– Gently lift it up, taking your time to peel away the adhesive that’s holding the display cable in place.

– Keep the front panel glass steady and slide an opening pick under the edge to carefully slice through the last bit of adhesive.

– Once you’ve separated all the adhesive, gently lift the glass panel like you’re turning the page of a book and set it down on your workspace. Take your time, no need to rush!

– When putting everything back together, make sure to clean up any leftover adhesive from the case (and from the front glass, if you’re reusing it) using some isopropyl alcohol. After that, just follow our display adhesive guide and apply the pre-cut adhesive strips like a pro.

– Be extra careful with those flex cables when reassembling! It’s easy to accidentally pinch them between the front glass and the frame. Just guide them gently under the frame—don’t press them flat, or they could get damaged beyond repair.

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those four 4.3 mm-long screws holding the LCD to the frame. Piece of cake!

– As you go along, keep track of every screw and remember where it came from. A little organization goes a long way in keeping your device in tip-top shape.

– Peel away any tape that’s covering those LCD screws. We want to see those screws, not some sticky tape!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the LCD to lift it just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re flipping through a fun book, lifting it near the camera side and rotating it over toward the home button end of the rear case.

– Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to give yourself easy access to those display cables. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the lone 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector to the logic board. Easy, right?

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the battery connector of the logic board at a 35-degree angle. It’s like fitting a puzzle piece, but with more precision.

– Leave the battery blocker where it is and keep going with the rest of the steps. You got this!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe!

– Take off the display cable bracket – it’s time to let that little guy go!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the LCD cable straight up from the press connector. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reattach those press connectors, take a moment to line things up just right. Press down gently on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If things aren’t aligned, you risk bending those delicate pins, and nobody wants that. If you’re feeling a bit lost, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help!

– Gently take off the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft surface that’s free of lint. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the home button cable’s ZIF connector under wraps.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your trusty fingernail to lift up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pry up those two digitizer cables. Just lift them straight up from their connectors, and they should come off without any trouble.

– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger underneath the vibration isolator located right below the SIM card reader to lift it up.

– Carefully take out the vibration isolator and set it aside.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the rear case like a pro.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If you notice any strange or phantom touch responses on your new display, try adding a super thin insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. The replacement digitizers usually come with the right insulation, so extra tape might not be needed.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Clean the areas where the glue will go with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface for fresh adhesive and helps everything stick just right.

– Give your iPad a test run to check all functions, then apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.

– Gently lift the home button cable from the back of the front panel using your fingers. It should come off with just a little bit of patience.

– Slide your opening pick under the home button cable and gently work it free from the front panel.

– Carefully slide it forward to slice through the adhesive that’s holding the home button cable in place.

– Keep sliding the opening pick until you hit the home button bracket.

– Gently slide an opening pick beneath the top of the home button cable to free the metal contact from the home button bracket. You’re doing great—keep it up!

– Warm up an iOpener and let it work its magic on the home button bracket for about thirty seconds.

– Grab your opening tool and gently pop the home button bracket off the front panel like a pro!

– First, carefully remove the home button bracket. You got this!

– When you’re putting the bracket back in place, grab some high-bond glue like E6000 to keep it nice and secure to the front panel assembly. Just a little glue goes a long way!

– Gently press on the home button from the front panel to release the adhesive that’s holding it down. A little push, and you’re on your way!

– Gently remove the home button assembly. Take it easy, it’s just a small step!

– When you’re putting things back together, remember to move the home button gasket over to the new front panel or home button assembly. It’s like a little puzzle piece!

– If the new panel is missing the spacer ring, no worries! Just transfer your existing spacer over, and you’re good to go.

– Before you stick everything back down with adhesive and seal it up, try turning on your iPad to test the repair. It’ll save you from any surprises later on.

– Put your device back together by going through these steps in reverse.

– Remember to recycle your e-waste responsibly at an R2 or e-Stewards certified facility.

– If things didn’t quite work out, try some basic troubleshooting or reach out for help. And if you’re stuck, you can always schedule a repair.

– Warm up your iOpener and give a little love to the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– While waiting for that adhesive to loosen up, make sure you’re mindful of these areas that don’t love being pried at:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set your iPad on something to keep it level between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top and the other near the bottom.

– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top suction cup to create suction.

– Slide the blue handle forward to securely lock those arms in place.

– Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch out.

– Double-check that the suction cups stay lined up with each other. If they start slipping out of sync, just loosen them a little and get those arms back in line.

– Give it a minute to let that adhesive do its thing and start loosening up, creating a nice little gap.

– If the screen’s not heating up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to give it some extra warmth.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and you’ve got a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to move things along.

– You can skip the next step. No need to worry about that one.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you made earlier.

– Slide it down toward the bottom-left corner of the device to break free the adhesive.

– Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t try to seal itself back up.

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, simply ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking the adhesive apart. Keep going, you’ve got this!

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive loose.

– Leave the pick snugly in the top-left corner to keep that adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up!

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the top edge of your device.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to pause right before you reach the front camera.

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip is snugly sitting between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick just above the front camera to break that pesky adhesive loose.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on. You’re doing great!

– Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the device’s top-right corner to fully break through that stubborn top adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for about two minutes to loosen things up.

– Gently glide that pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your device. You’ll be amazed at how much that helps!

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.

– Keep the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner while you get ready for the next step.

– Pop in a brand new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide that pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.

– Keep the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made—nice and easy!

– Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and head towards the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip slip in between the digitizer and the frame. You’re doing great!

– Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and ready.

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it in place.

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.

– With a gentle hand on the digitizer, carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You’re doing great!

– After you’ve carefully separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.

– When putting things back together, give the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—a good clean with isopropyl alcohol to remove any leftover adhesive. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on each screw throughout the repair—make sure every one goes back to its original spot to keep your device happy and healthy.

– Peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to them without any trouble.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger to ease the LCD out of its cozy little spot, just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Now, give that iPad LCD a little flip like you’re turning a page in a book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the rear case.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the lone 2.3 mm-long screw that’s keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue working.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Steady hands, you got this!

– Take off the display cable bracket.

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the LCD cable connector straight up—think of it as a little elevator ride for the cable.

– When it’s time to snap those press connectors back in, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and unbent.

– Carefully take out the LCD and set it down, screen side facing the surface, on a nice, clean, soft, lint-free spot.

– Grab a handy pair of tweezers and gently peel away that tape hiding the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out of that ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the two digitizer cables straight up to pop those press connectors free. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up the vibration isolator located just below the SIM card reader. It’s like giving it a little lift to say hello!

– Once it’s popped up, go ahead and remove that vibration isolator. You’re one step closer to achieving repair greatness!

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the back case like a pro.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches, don’t panic! A thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the highlighted spots at the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers already come insulated, so this step might be unnecessary.

– When putting things back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean the sticky areas with high-proof isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to get the surface ready for fresh adhesive. This helps everything stick just right.

– Before sealing it all up, test your iPad’s functions and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide.

– Grab a SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a straightened paper clip and pop it into the SIM card tray hole.

– Give it a firm press to make the SIM card tray pop right out.

– Gently pop out the SIM card tray from your iPad to get started.

– Grab the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail and gently lift up that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom left corner of the back case to gently loosen the SIM card tray’s adhesive—give it about thirty seconds to do its magic.

– Gently slide your opening tool under the bottom edge of the SIM card reader, applying slow and steady pressure to carefully lift it up.

– Now it’s time to put your device back together—just retrace your steps and you’ll be golden!

– Got some e-waste? Don’t toss it; take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. They’ll know what to do!

– If things didn’t quite go as planned, no worries! Give some troubleshooting a shot or check in with our iPad 7 Answers community for a little extra support.

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– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of your device for about two minutes. It’ll soften things up nicely and make the next steps a breeze.

– While you’re letting that adhesive chill out and loosen up, keep an eye on these sensitive spots that you definitely don’t want to poke around:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Gently pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms—no need to rush, it’s all about the smooth moves.

– Place something soft under your iPad to keep it comfy and level between the suction cups.

– Position those suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on top, one on the bottom, just like a perfect balance.

– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then press down firmly on the top cup to create a solid suction. You got this!

– Give that blue handle a little tug forward to get those arms locked in place.

– Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees, or until those suction cups start to stretch out like they’re ready for a workout.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re in sync with each other. If they start to wander off course, just loosen them up a bit and guide the arms back into alignment.

– Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small gap to work with.

– If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to heat things up.

– Once the Anti-Clamp opens a good-sized gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to gently pry it open.

– Go ahead and skip the next step.

– Let the screen warm up a bit until it’s comfortably toasty. Then, attach a suction handle to the left edge, as close to the corner as you can get.

– Gently pull the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame. Not too much, just enough to work with.

– Now, carefully slide an opening pick into that little gap you’ve just made. You’re almost there!

– Pop in a second opening pick where you’ve made the gap. Gotta give that adhesive some room to breathe!

– Now, slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device. You’re aiming to break up that sticky stuff so we can keep moving.

– Leave that pick in the corner to keep the adhesive from trying to sneak back together. It’s all about holding the line!

– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling the adhesive apart without a fuss.

– Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to break up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

– Gently spin the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive like a pro.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but stop just before you get to the front camera. We don’t want to mess with that little guy!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip is chilling between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick right over the front camera to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick hanging out near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Grab the pick again and gently slide it to the top-right corner of your device. This will fully separate that stubborn top adhesive.

– Now, leave the pick in the top-right corner to keep that adhesive from getting any funny ideas and re-sealing itself.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right side of your device for two minutes. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of your device, letting it do its thing for two minutes.

– Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the corner and watch the adhesive give way like it’s nothing. You’ve got this!

– Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner before you tackle the next step. You’re on your way to success!

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the little gap you’ve made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Carefully glide the pick along the antenna, and stop just shy of the home button.

– Make sure to leave that pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you carry on.

– Start by gently inserting an opening pick into the gap you’ve just created.

– Now, slide the pick underneath the home button, guiding it towards the bottom-right corner. Make sure that only the tip of the pick is between the digitizer and the frame. Take it slow and steady!

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it towards the home button to fully separate that bottom adhesive.

– Leave the pick hanging out to the right of the home button for now before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for about two minutes. It’s like giving your device a little heat therapy to help it loosen up!

– Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of the iPad. This will help you lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bits of adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to start peeling away the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!

– Keep the digitizer steady while gently sliding an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break up the last bit of adhesive holding them together.

– Once you’ve peeled off all the old adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad. It’s like giving it a little rest before the next steps!

– As you start putting things back together, grab some isopropyl alcohol to wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and digitizer (if you’re reusing it). Then, replace the old adhesive with our fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards. Simple, right?

– When putting everything back in place, keep an eye on those display cables! Make sure they’re tucked neatly under the LCD screen—no one likes a tangled mess, and this way, you avoid any potential damage.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on every screw you take out—put each one back exactly where it came from to keep your device happy and safe.

– If there’s any tape covering the LCD screws, peel it away so you can get to those screws without a hitch.

– Grab your spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the LCD just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, flip that LCD like you’re turning a page in a book—start from the camera side and slowly pivot it over towards the home button end of the rear case.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. This gives you easy access to the display cables, so no need to rush!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to work some magic! First up, let’s tackle that pesky little 2.3 mm screw that’s keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. Unscrew it with care, and you’ll be one step closer to giving your device the love it deserves!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35 degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker right there while you continue working to keep things safe and sound.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep track of those little guys!

– Carefully lift off the display cable bracket to get to the good stuff underneath.

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the LCD cable connector up. Keep it straight, and it’ll come right off without a hitch.

– When it’s time to reattach, take your time. Line up one side of the connector, press down until you hear that satisfying click, and then do the same for the other side. Just avoid pressing the middle—misalignment can cause the pins to bend, and that’s never good news.

– Gently lift the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft surface free of lint. You got this!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps.

– Grab your spudger, opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail, and gently lift up that small, hinged flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, let’s open up!’

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Be sure to keep it straight as you go, nice and easy.

– Grab the flat side of your trusty spudger and gently lift those two digitizer cables straight up from the press connectors. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the vibration isolator right below the SIM card reader. It’s like giving your device a little nudge!

– Once you’ve done that, go ahead and take out the vibration isolator. You’re making great progress!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Start by removing the front panel assembly.

– If you notice any weird ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch input issues after installing your new display, don’t worry. A simple fix is to add a very thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the marked areas on the back of the panel. No tape? No problem—Salvation Repair’s replacement digitizers come with all the insulation you need, so this step shouldn’t be necessary.

– When it’s time to put things back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Clean the glued areas with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the surface for fresh adhesive and ensures a strong, lasting bond.

– Once you’ve got everything clean, test out the iPad’s functions to make sure everything’s working like it should. Then, apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display. Follow our guide to apply the adhesive, and you’re almost ready to seal it all back up!

– Grab the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail, and gently lift up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. It’s a small move, but it gets you one step closer to success!

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable right out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the sharp end of a spudger under the right antenna cable and give it a little lift straight up to disconnect it. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift up the right antenna cable with care.

– Keep on peeling that right antenna cable away from the rear case like a pro! You’re doing great!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three screws holding the right antenna in place.

– One screw, 2.3 mm in length.

– Two screws, each 1.4 mm long.

– Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—think of it as sneaking in like a ninja.

– Carefully glide the pick toward the charging port to slice through the adhesive holding things together.

– Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape below.

– Pop that opening pick right between the antenna and speaker assembly like a pro!

– Gently slide the pick under the antenna to give that foam adhesive a little trim.

– Now, it’s time to liberate the right antenna. You’ve got this!

– Carefully slide the pointy tip of your spudger under the left antenna cable and gently lift straight up to unplug it.

– Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the rear case, following the bottom edge of the iPad like it’s giving you a little secret handshake.

– Carefully fold the left antenna cable out of your way, making sure it’s cozy and safe for the next step.

– Grab some tweezers or just your trusty fingernail to gently lift the tape hiding the speaker connectors.

– Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift the tiny, hinged locking flap on the right speaker cable ZIF connector. Take your time—it’s delicate, but you’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers and gently pull the right speaker cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and steady, you got this!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding down the right speaker. You’ve got this!

– Gently peel the LCD buffer tape off the back case with care – no rush, you got this!

– Slide the flat end of your spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.

– Gently nudge the speaker away from the rear case.

– Carefully push the speaker out from under the little shelf on the rear case.

– To wrap things up, just follow these steps in reverse to get your device back together.

– When it’s time to part with your e-waste, make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Having trouble? No worries! Check out some basic troubleshooting tips, or reach out to our helpful iPad 7 Answers community.

– If you’re still stuck, you can always schedule a repair for some extra hands on deck.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the left edge of the device for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic and soften things up.

– While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like to be messed with:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Grab the blue handle and gently pull it back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms. Nice and easy!

– Set something soft under your iPad to keep it perfectly balanced between the suction cups. We’re aiming for a smooth ride here.

– Place one suction cup at the top and one at the bottom, right near the middle of the left edge. We’re going for symmetry!

– Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down on the top cup to activate that suction. You’re almost there!

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Give the handle a full 360-degree twist clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to slip out of sync, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.

– Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little opening gap.

– If your screen isn’t warming up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to heat things up a bit.

– Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Skip the next step.

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it right on the left edge, as close to the border as you can get.

– Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame—slow and steady wins the race!

– Slide an opening pick carefully into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start loosening things up.

– Pop in a second opening pick where you’ve just made some space.

– Gently glide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive bond.

– Keep that pick snugly in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stubborn in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep separating that sticky stuff like a pro.

– Gently nudge the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.

– Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t decide to stick around again!

– Warm up that iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.

– Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of the device to ease off the adhesive. Take your time, it’s all about patience!

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but ease up just before you reach the front camera to keep things safe.

– Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide that pick just above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it down.

– Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you press on to the next step.

– Grab your pick, reinsert it, and give it a little slide towards the top-right corner of your device to fully break free that top adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Once you’ve got it separated, leave that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.

– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it to the center of the iPad’s right edge. You’ve got this!

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let’s get that adhesive nice and toasty!

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to start loosening that adhesive.

– Keep the pick right there in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

– Pop a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the pick across the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.

– Leave the pick just to the left of the home button before you keep going.

– Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip sneaks between the digitizer and the frame.