Author: Ralph Harris

– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it onto the left edge of your device for about two minutes. Give it a moment to work its magic and soften things up!

– While you wait for the adhesive to loosen up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being pried:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms—easy does it!

– Set something underneath your iPad so it sits nice and balanced between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top cup to get a good seal.

– Gently pull the blue handle forward to secure those arms in place.

– Give that handle a good twist clockwise, going all the way around 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch.

– Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they’re lined up just right. If they start to drift out of sync, loosen them up a tad and realign those arms like a pro.

– Give it a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen isn’t warming up enough, a hair dryer can be your best buddy for heating up the left edge of the iPad.

– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice gap for you.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– Pop in a second opening pick into that gap you just made. You’re doing great!

– Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner of your device to help loosen the adhesive. Keep it steady!

– Now, leave that pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. You’re on the right track!

– If your opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just gently ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep things moving and separate the adhesive smoothly.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that sticky adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

– Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. Nice work!

– Warm up your iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for two minutes. Let the heat work its magic!

– Take your pick and gently slide it around the top-left corner of the device, making sure to break through the adhesive without rushing.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device. Stop just shy of the front camera—no need to get too close, you don’t want to disturb it!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick over the front camera to carefully loosen the adhesive.

– Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.

– Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.

– Warm up your iOpener and give it a two-minute rest on the right edge of your device. Let it work its magic and soften things up.

– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break that adhesive seal. You’ve got this!

– Place a fresh opening pick into the edge of your iPad, then gently slide it along to the middle of the right side. Take your time – you’re almost there!

– Warm up an iOpener and give it a nice cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there before moving on to the next step.

– Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Carefully move the pick past the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.

– Let the pick rest just to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve made—no need to rush, take your time.

– Carefully maneuver the pick under the home button and slide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip of the pick should be between the digitizer and the frame, so make sure it’s a smooth, easy ride!

– Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully release that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Once it’s free, rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on.

– Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the right side of your device for about two minutes. Give it a moment to work its magic before moving on.

– Gently twist those opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a tad, which will help you break free the last bits of that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. You’ve got this!

– As you gently hold the digitizer in place, take an opening pick and slide it between the two display cables to break free the last bits of adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Once all the sticky stuff is out of the way, flip the digitizer open like a book and lay it down next to the iPad. Nice and easy!

– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and give the digitizer a little love if you’re reusing it. Then, stick on some new adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Watch out for those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly tucked away under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on every screw throughout this process — each one needs to go back exactly where it came from to keep your device happy and safe.

– Peel away any tape that might be hiding the LCD screws before you get started.

– Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the LCD out of its snug spot, just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, lifting from the camera side and gently turning it over towards the home button end of the case.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can get to the display cables without any hassle.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and go ahead and remove the single 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector to the logic board. Nice and easy, no need to rush!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue working.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Once they’re out, you’re one step closer to victory!

– Take off that display cable bracket like a pro!

– Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift the LCD cable straight up from the press connector. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to reattach those press connectors, just line it up carefully and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click! Then do the same on the other side. Remember, no pressing down in the middle! If it gets misaligned, those little pins can bend, and we definitely don’t want that. Keep it precise for a smooth ride!

– Put your device back together by retracing these steps in reverse.

– Remember to bring your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t quite work out, try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our community for support. And if you’re still stuck, you can always schedule a repair with us.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.

– While you let that adhesive chill for a bit, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t appreciate a rough touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a little tug backwards to set those Anti-Clamp arms free!

– Slide something under your iPad to keep it nice and level between those suction cups.

– Nestle the suction cups right around the center of the left edge—one on the top and another on the bottom.

– Stabilize the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down firmly on the top cup to create a good seal.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you notice the suction cups starting to stretch out.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly aligned. If they start to shift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before moving on.

– Hang tight for a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a little opening for you.

– If your screen isn’t warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPad a little warm-up session.

– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap for you.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– Slip a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device, breaking that adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner to stop that adhesive from sealing back up again.

– If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently ‘roll’ it along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that sticky stuff away.

– Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal.

– Keep the pick in place at the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t seal back up.

– Grab an iOpener, heat it up, and gently press it against the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Just enough time for it to work its magic and soften things up.

– Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. You’re doing great!

– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but be sure to stop just shy of the front camera. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the pick out so just the tip stays wedged between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the top of the front camera to loosen the adhesive.

– Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop the pick back in and gently slide it towards the top-right corner of the device, making sure the adhesive comes loose completely.

– Keep the pick in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t decide to get all clingy again.

– Warm up your iOpener and let it sit on the right edge of your device for two minutes. Trust us, it’ll make things so much easier!

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that sticky adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it in halfway along the right edge of your iPad. Keep it steady!

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that adhesive like a pro.

– Keep the pick right there in the corner before moving on to the next step.

– Slip a fresh opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.

– Gently glide the pick across the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.

– Position the pick to the left of the home button before you carry on.

– Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick under the home button, gliding it down toward the bottom-right corner—just the tip should sneak between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.

– Let the pick rest just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a good heat-up! Once it’s nice and toasty, place it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. This will help loosen things up for the next steps!

– Give those opening picks a little twist at the iPad’s left corners. This will gently lift the digitizer, slowly peeling away the last of the adhesive. Take it easy, no need to rush—patience is key!

– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad a bit more.

– Keep a steady hand on the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully separate the last bit of stubborn adhesive.

– Once you’ve successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently swing open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you’re reusing the digitizer, give it a clean too—with some isopropyl alcohol. For a secure fit, swap in our adhesive strips or those handy pre-cut adhesive cards.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while you’re reassembling everything. Tuck them away neatly beneath the LCD screen to keep them safe and sound. You’re doing great!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.

– Keep a close eye on each screw during this repair—making sure every one goes back exactly where it came from will save your device from any mishaps.

– If any tape is hiding those LCD screws, peel it away so you can get to work.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its cozy little spot just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the pages of your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and swinging it over to the home button side of the rear case.

– Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to give yourself easy access to those display cables.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the lone 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Easy peasy!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. You’ve got this!

– Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you tackle the rest of the repair. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those three little 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Nice and easy—no rush!

– Gently remove the display cable bracket and set it aside. It’s a simple step, but don’t rush—take your time and make sure everything is safe and sound.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the LCD cable out of its press connector like you’re peeling a sticker off a fresh notebook. Just be sure to lift straight up!

– When it’s time to reconnect those press connectors, take a moment to align it just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid the middle to keep those pins safe and sound; a little misalignment can lead to some serious damage.

– Carefully detach the LCD and set it down gently, screen side facing the surface, on a clean, soft, lint-free area.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel back the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps. Easy does it!

– Gently lift the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail. Take it slow, no rush!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Take your time—patience is key here!

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift straight up on those press connectors to unplug the two digitizer cables. Easy does it!

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently work it under the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.

– Once you’ve got it lifted, remove the vibration isolator with care.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax that home button cable away from the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Kick things off by taking off the front panel assembly!

– If you’re dealing with pesky ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch issues on your shiny new display, fear not! A quick fix is to add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. No need to stress—Salvation Repair replacement digitizers come prepped with the right insulation, so you shouldn’t need to add any extra tape.

– As you put everything back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from your iPad and give those glued areas a good clean with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth. This little step is crucial for getting your iPad ready for some fresh adhesive, ensuring a solid bond.

– Before sealing everything up, give your iPad a test run to check all functions and apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy display adhesive application guide. You’re almost there!

– Gently peel the home button cable away from the back of the front panel using just your fingers.

– Slide an opening pick under the home button cable to gently disconnect it from the front panel.

– Carefully glide it forward to slice through the adhesive holding the home button cable in place.

– Keep sliding that pick until you reach the home button bracket – you’re almost there!

– Gently slide an opening pick under the top edge of the home button cable to carefully lift the metal contact away from the home button bracket.

– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the home button bracket for about thirty seconds.

– Grab your trusty opening tool and gently nudge the home button bracket away from the front panel. You’ve got this!

– First up, carefully take off that home button bracket. It’s like a mini treasure hunt, so make sure you’re gentle with it!

– When you’re putting it back on, grab some high bond glue like E6000 to stick it onto the front panel. Just a little dab will do the trick to make sure it stays in place and you’re good to go!

– Give that home button a gentle nudge with your finger from the front side of the panel to break free the adhesive that’s keeping it snug. You’ve got this!

– Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow the instructions in reverse.

– Got some old electronics lying around? Make sure to drop them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, no worries! A little basic troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our iPad 7 Answers community for some friendly advice. And remember, if you’re feeling stuck, you can always schedule a repair!

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– While waiting for the adhesive to loosen up, be mindful of these sensitive spots that might need some extra care when prying:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug towards you to let the Anti-Clamp’s arms stretch out and get ready.

– Slide something underneath your iPad so it sits nice and flat between the suction cups.

– Set those suction cups right around the midpoint of the left edge—one at the top and the other at the bottom.

– Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give a solid push down on the top cup to get that suction going.

– Slide that blue handle forward to lock the arms in place. Easy peasy!

– Twist the handle 360 degrees clockwise (or until the cups start to stretch) – give it a good turn to get things moving.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay in line. If they start to wander, just loosen them a little and get them back where they need to be. No big deal!

– Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little gap for you.

– If your screen isn’t warming up as it should, feel free to grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPad a gentle warm-up.

– When the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and there’s a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.

– Go ahead and skip the next step.

– Grab a second opening pick and gently slide it into the gap you just made. You’re doing great!

– Move the pick towards the bottom-left corner of your device to start separating that stubborn adhesive. Take your time!

– Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner for now to stop that adhesive from getting all cozy again. Keep it steady!

– If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, gently ‘roll’ it along the side of the device to keep working your way through the sticky stuff.

– Gently slide your first opening pick toward the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged there to stop the adhesive from sticking back together on you.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– Give that pick a twirl around the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the device, but stop just before you get to the front camera. Keep it smooth and steady—you’ve got this!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip remains tucked between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it down.

– Now, keep that pick close to the right side of the front camera before you move on.

– Slide the pick back in and carefully glide it toward the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.

– Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.

– Warm up an iOpener and press it gently onto the right edge of the device for two minutes. Let the heat work its magic!

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it into the midpoint of the iPad’s right edge.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that adhesive.

– Keep the pick right there in the bottom-left corner before you move on to the next step.

– Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently glide the pick past the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.

– Keep the pick resting to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.

– Now, gently slide an opening pick into that gap you’ve just made. You’re doing great!

– Carefully slide the pick underneath the home button, aiming towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip of the pick is snugly wedged between the digitizer and the frame. Nice and easy—you’re on the right track!

– Pop that pick back in and shimmy it over to the home button to fully free up the bottom adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Leave that trusty pick hanging out to the right of the home button while you move on to the next step!

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’re doing great!

– Gently twist the two opening picks at the iPad’s left corners, just enough to lift the digitizer slightly. This will help separate the last of the sticky adhesive holding things together.

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to loosen the adhesive on the right edge of your iPad. You’re doing great!

– Hold the digitizer steady while you gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive.

– Now that all the adhesive is separated, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat, parallel to the iPad. Take it easy, it’s like flipping through a good read!

– When you’re putting things back together, make sure to clean up any leftover adhesive on the frame (and the digitizer if you’re reusing it) with some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap out the old adhesive with our fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards. It’s like giving your device a clean, fresh start!

– As you reassemble, keep an eye on those display cables. Make sure they’re neatly tucked underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage. A little care here goes a long way!

– Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four screws, each 4.3 mm long, that are holding the LCD to the frame. Be gentle, they’re doing an important job!

– As you work through this, keep a close eye on each screw. You want to make sure every one goes back to its original spot to keep everything running smoothly.

– Check for any tape that might be covering those LCD screws and peel it away before you go any further. We don’t want any surprises!

– Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its slot so you can grab it with your fingers.

– Carefully flip the iPad LCD like turning a page in a book—lift near the camera and rotate it over the home button end of the rear case.

– Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to get easy access to the display cables.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the single 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. A little twist, and you’re one step closer!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at a 35-degree angle, like you’re tucking in a cozy blanket.

– Leave the battery blocker there while you continue working. It’s your trusty sidekick through this repair journey.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws holding that display cable bracket in place. Simple, right?

– Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD cable connector straight up and disconnect it.

– When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle, or you might bend the pins and cause damage.

– Gently take out the LCD and place it face down on a nice, clean, soft surface that won’t leave any lint behind. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the home button cable’s ZIF connector under wraps.

– Gently pry open the small hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail. A little finesse goes a long way here!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Take it slow, and it’ll come right out without a hitch.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift straight up and unplug the two digitizer cables from their press connectors.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the vibration isolator sitting right under the SIM card reader.

– Carefully take out the vibration isolator.

– Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the rear case like a pro.

– Take off the front panel assembly carefully.

– If your new display starts acting up with “ghost” or “phantom” touches, no worries! You can fix this by placing a super thin insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the highlighted spots at the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with this insulation, so you usually won’t need to add tape.

– When putting things back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean the sticky areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) using a lint-free cloth. This step gets your iPad ready for fresh adhesive and helps everything stick perfectly.

– Give your iPad a quick function test and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.

– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the upper component bracket, taking your time to make sure it’s coming off cleanly.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the five screws holding the upper component bracket in place.

– You’ll need three screws, each 1.4 mm long.

– There are also two screws that are 1.9 mm long.

– Grab the pointy end of your trusty spudger and gently pry up the upper component bracket just enough so you can pinch it between your fingers.

– Once it’s loose, go ahead and remove the upper component bracket.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop off the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the front camera out of its cozy little home until you can snatch it up with your fingers.

– Next, use that same spudger to carefully peel away the adhesive foam pad that’s sticking to the front camera.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently grab the front camera. Now, twist it carefully so you can guide the cable through its slot in the rear case.

– Once that’s done, just pop out the front camera and set it aside.

– Gently use the flat end of the spudger to lift the headphone jack straight up from the press connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the headphone jack cable off the logic board. Easy does it!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and twist out the 4.3 mm screw holding the headphone jack to the back case. Easy does it!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the headphone jack away from the rear case. It’s a quick move, just be careful not to force it!

– Now, let’s put your device back together by retracing your steps, just like a fun puzzle!

– Got some old electronics lying around? Don’t forget to give them a second chance by dropping them off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, no worries! A little troubleshooting might just do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our iPad 7 Answers community for some extra support.

–

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– As you let that adhesive take its sweet time loosening up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that prefer a gentle touch:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Slide the blue handle backward to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Set your iPad on something to keep it balanced and level between the suction cups.

– Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.

– Keep the bottom part of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down firmly on the top cup to create suction.

– Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.

– Rotate the handle a full 360 degrees clockwise, or until you see the suction cups start to stretch.

– Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay perfectly lined up. If they start to drift out of sync, loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.

– Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little opening for you.

– Not feeling the warmth? Grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPad a gentle heat-up.

– Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice gap for you.

– Feel free to skip the next step!

– When the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle on the left edge, as close to the edge as you can get.

– Gently pull up on the screen with the suction handle to make a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame.

– Slide a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.

– Keep that pick in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together!

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going smoothly.

– Gently slide that first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep that pick snug in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from getting cozy again.

– Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and place it gently on the top edge of your device. Let it work its magic for about two minutes to soften things up.

– Gently slide the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.

– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but stop just before you hit the front camera. You’ve got this!

– Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays sandwiched between the digitizer and the frame.

– Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen the adhesive hiding there.

– Rest the pick by the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.

– Pop that pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner to fully free the top adhesive.

– Leave the pick chilling in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– Warm up your iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’re doing great!

– Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the heart of the iPad’s right edge like a pro.

– Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your device.

– Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.

– Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.

– Pop a new opening pick into that gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.

– Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.

– Keep that pick snug to the left of the home button before you move on.

– Gently slide an opening pick into the little gap you’ve made. You’re doing great!

– Now, carefully guide that pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame. Keep it steady!

– Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it toward the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.

– Set the pick just to the right of the home button and hold tight before moving on.

– Warm up your iOpener and press it gently onto the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic!

– Gently twist the two opening picks positioned at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to peel away the last stubborn bits of adhesive.

– Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. Take your time and don’t rush—it’s all about that smooth separation!

– As you gently hold the digitizer in place, slip an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– After you’ve carefully loosened all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it down flat next to the iPad.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer (if you’re reusing it) using isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.

– Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the four screws that are holding the LCD in place. These screws are 4.3 mm long – don’t lose them!

– While you’re working, make sure to keep track of every screw you remove. Getting them back in the right spot is key to keeping your device happy and safe.

– Before you go any further, check for any tape that’s hiding the LCD screws and peel it away.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently ease the LCD out of its snug little spot—just enough so you can give it a friendly tug with your fingers.

– Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the page of a captivating book, lifting near the camera and swinging it over to the home button side of the rear case.

– Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle this step! Carefully unscrew the lone 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.

– Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working to keep things safe and sound.

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm-long screws holding down the display cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Carefully take off the display cable bracket to free up some space.

– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the LCD cable connector straight up and unplug it. Easy does it!

– When reconnecting these press connectors, line them up carefully and press down on one side until you hear a little click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle—misaligned pins can bend and cause permanent damage. Take your time and keep it smooth.

– Carefully take the LCD off and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps.

– Grab your trusty spudger, an opening tool, or even your own fingernail, and gently lift that small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently grab your trusty tweezers and give that home button ribbon cable a careful tug straight out of the ZIF connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift straight up on the press connectors to unplug those two digitizer cables. Easy does it!

– Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the vibration isolator sitting just below the SIM card reader.

– Carefully take out the vibration isolator.

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You’ve got this!

– Carefully take off the front panel assembly.

– If you notice any weird ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touches on your new display, don’t panic! Simply add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel to fix it. The replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add tape yourself.

– When putting everything back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to prep the surface for fresh adhesive and ensure a solid bond.

– Give your iPad a quick test to make sure everything works, then apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

– Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off of the upper component bracket with care. You’ve got this!

– Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the five screws holding down the upper component bracket.

– There are three screws that are 1.4 mm long.

– Plus, two screws that measure 1.9 mm long.

– Gently pry up the upper component bracket using the pointy end of your spudger until it’s loose enough to grab with your fingers.

– Take off the upper component bracket.

– Gently pry up the front camera cable’s press connector using the flat end of a spudger to disconnect it cleanly.

– Gently grab a spudger and lift the front camera out of its cozy home, just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.

– Now, use that trusty spudger to carefully peel away the adhesive foam pad from the front camera—no rush, just a steady pull.

– To put your device back together, just reverse these steps and you’ll be good to go!

– Got some e-waste? Don’t just toss it! Take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

– Things not going as smoothly as planned? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our iPad 7 Answers community for a helping hand.

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– Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the device’s left edge for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.

– While the adhesive is loosening up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots where prying can cause trouble:

– Front camera

– Antennas

– Display cables

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug backward to set the Anti-Clamp’s arms free!

– Slide something under your iPad to keep it nice and level between those suction cups.

– Place the suction cups snugly near the center of the left edge—one up top, and one down below.

– Stabilize the bottom of the Anti-Clamp, then confidently press down on the top cup to create a strong seal.

– Grab the blue handle and slide it forward to lock the arms into place.

– Give the handle a nice, smooth 360-degree turn (or keep turning until the cups start to stretch).

– Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay aligned. If they start drifting apart, loosen them a bit and gently realign the arms. Simple fix!

– Give the adhesive a moment—about a minute should do the trick—to loosen up and make room for an opening gap.

– If your screen isn’t warming up as quickly as you’d like, a hair dryer can help out—just give the left edge of your iPad a gentle heat boost.

– Once you’ve got a decent gap thanks to the Anti-Clamp, gently slide an opening pick under the digitizer to move forward.

– Skip ahead to the next step; you’re good to go!

– When your screen is feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, getting as close to the edge as you can.

– Gently pull up on the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame – just enough to get things moving.

– Slide an opening pick into that little gap you’ve made between the digitizer and the frame to keep it open.

– Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.

– Gently slide that pick toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep the pick tucked in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.

– If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a champ!

– Gently glide that first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep the pick snug in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to play hide and seek again.

– Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’ve got this!

– Take your pick and gently work it around the top-left corner of your device to peel away the sticky stuff. Go slow, we don’t want to rush this part!