DIY Google Pixel 4a Headphone Jack Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
Welcome to Salvation Repair’s step-by-step guide! Our team has put together this repair guide to help you fix your device. For more information about our repair process, check out our website.
Be careful when handling the Google Pixel 4a 5G’s display panel – it’s pretty fragile and can break easily. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Ready to get your Google Pixel 4a’s headphone jack back in action? This guide will walk you through the process, step-by-step. Just remember, the Pixel 4a 5G’s screen is a bit delicate, so be extra careful during the opening process. If you need help with any part of the repair, you can always schedule a repair with us. Let’s get this headphone jack fixed!
Step 1
– Time to get started! Insert a SIM eject tool, a trusty paper clip, or a bit into the SIM tray hole – it’s like a little key to unlock your SIM card.
– Gently press the tool straight into the hole until you hear that satisfying click, and the SIM card tray will pop out.
– Now, carefully remove the SIM card tray, and you’ll be one step closer to getting your device up and running. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: keep an eye on that orange ribbon cable tucked away in the lower-right corner of the screen. It’s a bit delicate and can get hurt if your opening pick pokes it too hard. So, be gentle and only slide your pick in just enough to break that screen adhesive. You’ve got this!
Get ready to gently pry the screen away from the phone to set it free! Make sure to check out the notes below before diving in.
– Keep an eye on those two seams along the edge of your phone:
– Before diving in, check out these key areas on the screen:
– Screen seam: This is the line that separates the screen from the rest of the phone. It’s your go-to spot for prying.
– Frame seam: Here’s where the plastic frame meets the back cover, secured by screws. Steer clear of prying at this seam.
– Screen flex cable: Be careful not to push the opening pick deeper than advised, or you might end up damaging this cable.
– Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond this slim perimeter without angling the pick could harm the OLED panel.
Step 3
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to gently warm things up, but keep an eye on the heat! Overheating can turn your phone’s display and internal battery into party poopers, so handle with care.
– Let’s get this display warmed up! Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the display for a minute to loosen up that adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 4
If your screen is badly cracked, don’t worry – we’ve got you covered. Try covering it with clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick. If that doesn’t work, you can use some seriously strong tape instead. And if all else fails, a little superglue can be your best friend to get that suction cup to stay put. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Get your suction cup nice and close to the right edge of that screen, right on the edge!
– Now, give that suction cup a good, strong lift! It’s like you’re opening a treasure chest!
– Slide that opening pick gently into the seam of the screen. Just a tiny bit, no more than 1 mm. You’ve got this!
Step 5
Whoa there, cowboy! If you feel your pick hitting a bump, you might be digging into the OLED panel. Just shift the pick and try again, like you’re doing a little jig! 😉
In this step, we’ll show you the best way to slide in that pick without hurting the OLED panel. Make sure you do this before getting into the fun of slicing through the adhesive.
– Slide the pick into the gap about 1 mm, then gently pivot it upwards to a sharp angle.
– Once you’re at that angle, nudge the pick further into the gap, about 1/4 inch (6 mm). It should smoothly slide in just under the OLED panel.
Step 6
Keep that pick to a maximum of 1/4 inch (6 mm)! Going deeper might just end up putting a little too much pressure on the screen’s flex cable, and nobody wants a drama with that.
– Gently slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to carefully cut through the adhesive – you’re making great progress!
– Leave the pick in the top right corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing, and get ready for the next step. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 7
Hey, there’s a little cable chillin’ under the screen. If you feel your pick snagging, back off and try again. Keep your tool angled down and only go in as far as you need to (about 2 millimeters deep). You got this!
– Now it’s time to get a little more aggressive – insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle, where you’ve already created some space. This will help you avoid damaging that fancy OLED panel.
– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut through the adhesive. Take your time, you’re making great progress!
– Leave the pick in place along the bottom edge – this will prevent the adhesive from sneaking back in and undoing all your hard work. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 8
If the screen is putting up a fight, warm up the left edge for a minute and give it another go.
– Slide another opening pick into the lower edge of your phone at a cozy angle where a little gap has already made itself at home, keeping your OLED panel safe and sound.
– Use that trusty pick to carefully glide along the left edge of the phone, cutting through any sticky situations.
– Once you’re through, leave the pick nestled along the left edge to keep that adhesive from being too clingy.
Step 9
– Gently slide another opening pick into the left edge of your phone at an angle where you’ve already created a little gap. This will help protect that beautiful OLED panel from any mishaps.
– Now, take that pick and glide it around the top edge of the phone to carefully slice through the adhesive. Easy peasy!
Check out the awesome mesh protecting the earpiece speaker on the top edge of your screen! If you’re missing the replacement, be extra careful not to mess with or lose this small but mighty part. If you’re upgrading that cracked screen, make sure the top edge isn’t too tough to slice through – try heating it up for a minute first, and if it’s still a tough cookie, give it another try!
Step 10
Hold on there, cowboy! We’re not ready to pull the screen off just yet. Let’s take it slow and steady, alright?
– After you’ve made your way around the edges of the phone, gently lift the right side of the screen, almost like you’re flipping a page in a book.
– Grab an opening pick and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 11
Gently handle the connected ribbon cable to avoid any strain!
– Gently lift the screen from the top edge and swing it over the bottom edge until it’s comfortably resting glass-side down. Keep it cool and collected, you’ve got this!
Step 12
– Time to get up close and personal with that screen connector bracket! Use a trusty pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering it.
– If the tape is still in great shape, you can definitely reuse it when you’re putting everything back together. But if it’s seen better days, go ahead and swap it out with some fresh electrical tape. And don’t worry if you’re not feeling confident – if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 13
Keep tabs on those tiny screws throughout the repair! Make sure each one goes back to its original spot to avoid any mini-disasters.
– Alright, let’s loosen things up a bit! Use a T3 Torx driver to remove those two tiny 2.1 mm screws holding the screen connector bracket in place. It’s like giving your device a little hug, but with a screwdriver. 😉
Step 14
– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully remove the screen connector bracket – it’s a delicate part, so be gentle!
– Hang onto this tiny component, you’ll need it again when you’re putting everything back together. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 15
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the screen flex cable. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to reconnect, align those connectors like a pro! Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then repeat on the other side. Just a little tip: avoid pressing down in the middle. If things get misaligned, those tiny pins can bend, and we definitely don’t want that! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
When you boot up your device after reassembling it, the screen will run through a quick calibration process. Just let it do its thing – don’t touch the screen until it’s finished, or you might end up with some wonky touch settings. If you need help or have any questions, you can always schedule a repair
Take a peek at the third photo, it’ll show you where to put your adhesives like a pro!
– First things first, let’s get that screen off!
– Ready to put on a shiny new screen? Here’s how:
– Take a peek at your replacement screen—does it have the speaker mesh and top edge adhesive already on it? Awesome!
– If you need to, check out this guide to apply the custom-cut adhesive like a pro.
– If it does have the adhesive, you can skip the top edge adhesive step. Sweet!
– If it doesn’t, peel off the larger clear liner from the top edge adhesive and stick it onto the screen (not the frame). Just make sure that the larger cutout aligns perfectly with the speaker mesh.
Step 17
– Grab your trusty T3 Torx driver and get ready to tackle those eight 4.3 mm screws that are holding the back cover tightly to the midframe. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Gently slide an opening pick into the gap between the midframe and the back cover.
– Carefully glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to pop free those pesky plastic clips holding the back cover to the midframe.
Step 19
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your phone to pop those plastic clips free and let the back cover come off like a champ!
Step 20
– Now it’s time to free those clips! Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of them. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 21
– Gently swing that back cover from the bottom of your phone, wrapping it around the top and to the back like you’re giving it a cozy hug.
– Place the back cover down on your work surface, and let the midframe rest lightly on it. Just be sure to treat those ribbon cables with care – no stress allowed!
Step 22
– Let’s get started by using a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws that hold the motherboard bracket in place:
– First, you’ll find three 2.9 mm-long black screws
– Next, locate the three 2 mm-long screws
– Lastly, remove the one 4.1 mm-long screw. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 23
– Now, let’s gently pry that motherboard bracket loose. Use the tip of your spudger to unclip it from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard. It’s like giving it a little high-five, but with a tool! Just be careful not to go too crazy with it.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Time to get up close and personal with your device’s internals! Use a trusty pair of tweezers to carefully remove the motherboard bracket. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 25
– Alright, let’s get this battery disconnected! Take your trusty spudger (the flat end, of course) and gently pry up the battery cable. You got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 26
– Now it’s time to get those flex cables disconnected – use the tip of a spudger to carefully release the two cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 27
– Oh yeah, this is where the fun begins! Pop that sweet back cover off like a springbok to bring back to life your beloved tech. You can always schedule a repair if this gets too wild for ya!
Step 28
– Alrighty, it’s time to disconnect that headphone jack cable from the motherboard. Don’t worry, you’ve got this! Use the tip of a spudger and work some magic. If you get stuck, no sweat, just give us a holler and we’ll help you out. Remember, our team is always here to make your repair journey a total breeze at schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 29
– Let’s get this headphone jack out! Slide an opening pick under it near the headphone jack and give it a little twist to loosen the adhesive holding it to the midframe.
– Now you can remove the headphone jack – easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
