DIY Google Pixel 6a 5G mmWave Antenna Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 31 Steps
Hey, this guide was written by our team at Salvation Repair, so you know it’s awesome! We’re not affiliated with Google, but we’re still here to help you fix that phone. You can learn more about our repair guides here. Just a heads up – for your safety, make sure the battery is below 25% before you start taking things apart. We wouldn’t want you to get shocked!
If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Hey there! This handy repair guide comes straight from our fantastic team at Salvation Repair, and while it hasn’t been given the thumbs up from Google, we’re here to help you out! Ready to tackle that 5G mmWave antenna cable replacement for your Google Pixel 6a? Start by making sure your battery is below 25% before you dive in – safety first! This simple step lowers the chance of a fire if the battery gets a bit too frisky during the repair. And if you’ve got a swollen battery, don’t forget to take proper precautions. Oh, and grab some replacement adhesive to seal the deal on this fix. Happy repairing!
Step 1
Hey there! Before you dive in, let your battery power drop below 25%. We don’t want any surprises, right? A full battery can get a little spicy if we accidentally poke it during the repair. If you’re not sure about this, you can always schedule a repair with our awesome team.
– First things first, let’s give your phone a little break. Power it down completely and unplug any cables hanging out. You’re doing great already!
Step 2
Hey there! Before you dive into this repair, remember to take a quick peek at these important tips. You got this!
– Screen seam : Don’t get tricked by this seam separating the screen from the phone, it’s just a visual divider. Keep your tools away!
– Bezel seam : Here’s where the bezel (that’s the fancy plastic around the screen) meets the phone’s frame. It’s held together with little plastic clips. This is your prying point!
Step 3
Up next, we’re diving into the world of the Anti-Clamp—a nifty little gadget we’ve whipped up to make opening your device a breeze! If you don’t have one on hand, no worries! Just skip down three steps for another method.
If your screen is looking a bit rough with cracks, give it a little TLC by slapping on some clear packing tape. This will help our suction cup buddy stick like a pro.
Looking for the complete lowdown on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out our full guide right here.
If your phone’s surface is giving you some slippery vibes that make the Anti-Clamp struggle, just grab some tape and create a better grip! It’s all about teamwork.
– First, let’s get started by pulling the blue handle backwards – this will unlock the Anti-Clamp’s arms and get you moving.
– Next, slide the arms over the right edge of your phone, making sure they’re in the right spot.
– Now, position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge of the phone, with one on the front and one on the back – this will give you a good grip.
– Finally, squeeze the cups together to apply suction and get a secure hold. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 4
– Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock the arms in place.
– Give that handle a spin! Turn it clockwise all the way around (360 degrees) until you see those cups start to stretch.
– Keep those suction cups lined up! If they start to get out of whack, just loosen them up a bit and get them back in formation.
Step 5
Go slow and steady, champ! Turn that screw only half a turn at a time and give it a minute to relax between turns. Let the tool do the work and you’ll be cruising in no time.
You can also get creative with a hairdryer or heat gun—but remember, too much heat can cause a display meltdown or battery blues, so use your best judgment.
If the Anti-Clamp’s not doing the trick, apply more heat to the area and give that handle a half turn clockwise.
– Give your iOpener a cozy warm-up and slip it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp so it comfortably rests along the right edge of your phone.
– Hang tight for one minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap.
– Slide an opening pick beneath the screen frame once the Anti-Clamp has opened up enough space.
– Feel free to skip the next two steps and move right along!
Tools Used
Step 6
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to warm things up, but be careful not to cook your phone! The display and battery are pretty sensitive to heat and could get toasty. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Let’s get started by heating up an iOpener and applying it to the right edge of the screen for about two minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 7
If your screen is looking a bit worse for wear with a nasty crack, don’t fret! A slick layer of clear packing tape might just be the ticket to help that suction cup stick. Got some super strong tape lying around? That could work too! And if you’re really in a pinch, a dab of superglue can help the suction cup stay put on the shattered screen.
Now, if your phone’s been around the block a few times, it might be a little tricky. If you’re running into some hiccups, just crank up the heat a tad on the edge and give it another go!
– Pop a suction cup onto the screen, aiming for the center of the right edge.
– Give the suction cup a strong, steady pull to create a gap between the bezel and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into the gap.
Step 8
Keep it chill with the pick, to just 3.5 mm max, or the inside parts might get jealous and get mad!
– Whoa there, partner! Keep that pick moving and tilting like a pro! And make sure to wiggle it around, just like your oldies tune playing on repeat. Need a hand? No worries – we always got your back!
Step 9
– Slide that pick along the right edge, like you’re giving the bezel a little high five to release those plastic clips. It’s all good, trust us.
– Now, position that pick at the top-right edge like a little dance move. Get ready for the next step, it’s going to be a breeze!
Step 10
Don’t go overboard! Just gently insert the pick about 4mm. You don’t want to get too close to the sensitive stuff inside. 😊
– Twist that opening pick around the top-right corner of your phone to pop those clips free!
– Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop those clips from snapping back into place.
Step 11
Be careful when slicing around the front camera – only insert the pick about 3mm to avoid damaging the lens. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry, you can always schedule a repair
– Now it’s time to add a new opening pick to the gap you’ve created – this is where the magic happens!
– Gently slide the pick along the top edge to release those clips and get things moving.
Step 12
– Let’s wiggle that opening pick around the top-left corner of your phone! That’ll loosen up those clips holding things together.
– Keep that opening pick chilling in the top-left corner, so those clips don’t sneak back together. We want to keep this party going!
Step 13
Hey there! Just a friendly heads-up – don’t go crazy with that pick, keep it under 3 mm, okay? You wouldn’t want to hurt anything inside, right? 😉 If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Alright, it’s time to gently detach the screen from the frame! If you feel some stubbornness around the edges, grab an opening pick and carefully pop any last clips free. You’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Pop in a new opening pick right where you made that little gap. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide that pick down the left edge to release those clips like a pro.
– Now, just repeat the twist-and-slide action for the remaining edge. Easy peasy!
Step 14
Hold up there! Don’t yank the screen off just yet—it’s still got a flex cable keeping it cozy with the frame.
And hey, let’s not twist or pull the screen too far from the frame; we wouldn’t want to hurt that flex cable!
Step 15
Hey there! The display cable bracket is held in place with some metal clips. It’s like those clips holding your favorite snack bag together – gotta get ’em out!
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the bottom side of the bracket up to pop that metal clip free.
– Now, let’s get that display cable bracket out of the way.
– When you’re putting it all back together, remember to slide in the top side of the bracket first before pressing down the other side. Skipping this step might lead to some unexpected sparks and could give your logic board a bad day.
Tools Used
Step 16
Hey there, we’re going to be working on some really tiny stuff here so you want to be extra careful. It’s a little like working on a miniature city! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Slide the tip of your trusty opening pick right under the bottom right edge of the display cable press connector, just above that sneaky little screw hole.
– Gently pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to re-attach those press connectors, just align them carefully. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Remember, avoid pressing down in the middle—nobody likes a bent pin! If you’re feeling unsure, just take it slow to prevent any damage.
Step 17
Don’t forget to pop that display cable bracket back on! You’ve got this!
– Start by gently taking off that screen!
– Now, for the reassembly part:
– If you’ve swapped out your screen, take a moment to check the front-facing camera hole and the sensor cutout on your new screen. Don’t forget to peel off any pesky remaining liners.
– Give your phone a quick look to see if the proximity sensor’s rubber gasket is playing hide and seek—it may have stuck to the back of your old screen. If so, replace it and keep things neat.
– Here’s a great moment to give your phone a little test run before you seal it all up. Just plug your screen back in, power on your device, and ensure everything is running smoothly. Don’t forget to switch it off again before you dive back into reassembly!
– Check out this guide for some tips on replacing the screen adhesive.
– If you’re hooking up a brand new screen, follow this guide to get that fingerprint sensor calibrated just right.
Step 18
Don’t go crazy with the tape removal – just gently cut the bridge between the midframe and the top speaker. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Time to get a little handy! Use tweezers to carefully peel back the silver tape that’s connecting the midframe to the top speaker. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 19
– Peel back the adhesive tape revealing the two screws on both sides of the USB-C port with the precision of a surgeon. You’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Alrighty, let’s get those screws outta there! Here’s what you’ll need:
– A T3 Torx screwdriver, because you’re about to embark on a titanically thrilling repair journey!
Now, count ’em up: 16 screws in total, all secured like little soldiers keeping guard. But don’t worry, we’ll make ’em so proud as they start marching out one by one.
Get ready for the following troops:
– Eight 4.3mm screws
– Five 2.9mm screws
– Two 4.9mm screws
– And a final 4.6mm screw, standing out like a lone archer!
Cheers, pal! You’re almost there – if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 22
– Let’s get started by inserting a spudger between the bottom left of the midframe and the frame – it’s time to set that midframe free!
– Now, gently pry up with the spudger to release the bottom of the midframe from its clips. Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 23
Don’t worry if you feel a little resistance. It’s just the midframe holding on tight to the heat sink with some thermal paste. It’s all good, keep going!
– Alrighty, let’s get our hands dirty and explore the inner world of your device! Peel off that midframe and set it free. Once you’ve got that done, it’s time to bring your phone back to life! Give it a little power boost and make sure everything’s working smoothly before you seal it up. Don’t forget to take a break and turn off the power before we tackle the next adventure together. Need some extra help? You can always schedule a repair!
Step 24
– Grab that spudger and use the flat end to gently scrape away the thermal paste. You’ve got this!
– Next up, let’s tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol along with a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth to wipe away any leftover thermal paste.
– Don’t forget to give the midframe some love too! Repeat that cleaning process for any thermal paste hanging around.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste to your device.
Tools Used
Step 25
– Time to get started! Use a trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the battery’s press connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 26
– Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and give those 2.9 mm screws holding down the 5G mmWave antenna bracket a little twist to the left. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 27
– Gently grab the bracket with tweezers or your fingers and slide it to the right, releasing the clip from the phone’s edge.
– Now, carefully remove the 5G mmWave antenna bracket – you’re making great progress! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 28
– Time to get started! Use a trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna’s press connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 29
– Have some fun and grab those teeny tiny tweezers or your nimble fingers to gently remove that 5G mmWave antenna like a removal pro. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 30
– Time to get started! Use a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna cable’s press connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 31
– Congratulations! You’ve successfully uncovered the 5G mmWave antenna cable. Well done!
