DIY Google Pixel 7 Pro Battery Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
Hey there! Just a heads-up: this repair guide comes straight from the awesome team at Salvation Repair, and while it’s got all the tips and tricks, it’s not officially backed by Google. Want to dive deeper? Check out our repair guides here.
GE2AE
Safety first, folks! Make sure to drain your battery to below 25% before you crack open that phone. Better safe than sorry!
Get ready to breathe new life into your Google Pixel 7 Pro by replacing the battery. Our step-by-step guide is here to walk you through it. Before you start, make sure to discharge your battery to below 25% to minimize the risk of fire. If your battery is swollen, take the necessary precautions. Also, keep in mind that the Pixel 7 Pro contains class 1 lasers, so be careful when disassembling. You’ll need some replacement adhesive to complete the job, and while you’ll lose the IP rating, you can still retain water resistance if you reapply it just right. This guide is based on the GE2AE model with a 5G mmWave antenna, but if you’ve got a non-mmWave model, just skip those steps. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair. The team at Salvation Repair put this guide together to help you get your device up and running. Learn more about our repair guides and how we can help you at Salvation Repair.
Step 2
Be sure to slide the pick in only about ~3.5 mm while removing, so you don’t accidentally mess up the insides or disturb those tricky plastic clips.
– As you embark on the removal journey, remember to place your opening picks just right to keep the screen snugly attached to its safety frame.
– Screen seam: This is the divide between the screen and the rest of the phone. A friendly reminder: no prying here!
– Bezel seam: This is the spot where the stylish plastic bezel meets the frame, held firmly by plastic clips. That’s your go-to area for prying.
– Keep an eye out for the many plastic clips hugging the screen. If your opening pick feels a bit stuck during removal, chances are you’ve gone a little too deep beneath the screen.
Step 3
The next three steps showcase our nifty Anti-Clamp, a must-have tool we’ve concocted to ease the opening process for ya. If you’re not using it, feel free to skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
Looking for a quick fix for that pesky cracked screen? Cover it up with a thin layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick on!
Curious about the Anti-Clamp? Dive into this handy-dandy guide for more info.
If your phone is slippery AF and your Anti-Clamp hates it, don’t fret! Whip out some tape to transform it into a grippier playground.
– Give the blue handle a little tug backwards to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
– Guide those arms right over the left or right edge of your phone.
– Place the suction cups just above the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front side and one on the back.
– Press the cups together to create some mighty suction power.
Step 4
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms like a pro.
– Now, twist that handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups beginning to stretch out.
– Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they’re in perfect harmony. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a tad and bring those arms back into alignment.
Step 5
Take it easy and turn slowly – no more than half a turn at a time. Give it a minute between turns and let the Anti-Clamp do its thing. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Need a little warmth? A hair dryer or a heat gun can do the trick! Just remember, too much heat can cause some serious drama for your display and the internal battery, so keep it chill while you work your magic.
If the Anti-Clamp is feeling a bit lazy and not creating enough space, no worries! Just add a bit more heat to the area and give that handle a half turn clockwise. You’ve got this!
– Let’s get started by heating up an iOpener and carefully threading it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp – this will help loosen things up.
– Next, fold the iOpener so it’s snug against the bottom edge of your phone, making sure it’s in the right spot.
– Now, take a minute to let the adhesive release its grip – this will give you a gap to work with.
– When the Anti-Clamp creates a big enough gap, it’s time to insert an opening pick under the screen frame and get to work.
– You can skip the next two steps, easy peasy!
Step 6
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but remember to keep a close eye on the heat! The edge should feel just a tad too warm to the touch.
Step 7
If your screen has seen better days and looks like a spider web, a layer of clear packing tape could help the suction cup stick. In a pinch, some strong tape can do the trick instead of the suction cup. And if you’re really in a bind, you might even consider supergluing the suction cup to your shattered screen. Just keep it light and fun!
Depending on how ancient your phone is, you might hit a bit of a snag. If things are getting tricky, just warm up the bottom edge a little more and give it another go. You got this!
– Once your screen is feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and place it on the bottom edge of the screen.
– Gently lift the screen along with its safety frame using the suction handle to create a little gap between the screen and the phone assembly.
– Slide an opening pick into that gap and you’re on your way!
Tools Used
Step 8
– The screen cable is located just shy of the halfway mark up the left edge of your phone. Tread carefully in this area to keep that cable safe and sound!
– You’ll notice a bunch of spring contacts scattered around the edge of your phone. Handle with care in these spots to avoid any bending mishaps. You’ve got this!
Step 9
– Gently glide that opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the screen and slice through the adhesive like a pro.
– Keep that trusty opening pick right where it is to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and resealing.
Step 10
There’s a sneaky little plastic clip hanging out in the bottom left corner that might throw a wrench in your opening pick’s plans. Just finesse the very tip of the pick (~1 mm) around it, and you’ll be all set!
– Grab a second opening pick and slide it into the bottom edge, gliding all the way to the bottom left corner of the screen to cut through that adhesive. You’re doing great!
– Keep that opening pick right where it is to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. You’re on a roll!
Step 11
– Let’s get this screen separated! First, gently slide a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
– Now, scoot that opening pick along the left edge of the screen. You’re gonna be slicing through the adhesive and releasing those plastic clips – like a pro!
– Leave that opening pick chillin’ in the top left corner to keep that adhesive from getting all cozy and re-glued. You got this!
Step 12
When slicing near the front-facing camera, be careful to insert only the tip of the opening pick (about 2.5 mm) to avoid damaging or smudging the camera. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.
– Let’s get this party started! Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
– Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive. You got this!
– Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing. You’re doing great! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 13
Hold your horses! Don’t go yanking that display off just yet—it’s still hanging out with the phone assembly via a flex cable.
– Now, let’s get those last few clips released! Grab your fifth opening pick and slide it along the right side of your phone. It’s like cutting a cake, but with a pick instead of a knife. This will slice through the remaining adhesive and free up the right-hand plastic clips. You’re doing great! One step closer to a happy phone.
Step 14
Hey, take it easy on that screen! Don’t go twisting it or pulling it too far away from the frame. We don’t want to stress out the flex cable, now do we? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Time to get this repair started – gently lift the right edge of the screen up and swing it towards the left side of your device, just like you’re opening a book.
– Now, carefully rest the screen upside down, making sure it’s parallel to the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 17
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the display flex cable connector straight up from its socket. Easy does it!
– When it’s time to reattach those connectors, align them with care and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Repeat the process on the other side, but remember—keep those fingers away from the middle! If the connector’s not lined up just right, it could lead to some unfortunate pin bending and damage.
Tools Used
Step 18
– Time to free the screen from the phone assembly – gently does it!
– Now, let’s talk reassembly:
– Once you’re putting things back together and the boot-up kicks in, your screen will need a little calibration moment. Hands off during this time – touching it could mess with the touch calibration, and nobody wants that kind of drama.
– Give a quick check to make sure all those screws are snug and there are no loose bits hanging around.
– Reconnect that screen and fire up your phone to test it out. After confirming it’s working, power it down again and carry on with the final touches.
– If you’ve got some areas that need a fresh adhesive boost, go ahead and apply it after giving those spots a good wipe down with some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher, please).
– If you’re rocking some custom-cut adhesives, use this guide for a smooth application.
– Got a pre-cut adhesive card? No worries, just follow this guide for a hassle-free stick.
Step 19
Be careful when handling the battery – if it gets punctured or bent, it could leak chemicals or even catch fire. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry, you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.
Having trouble getting that foil to budge? Try applying a heated iOpener to the back of your device for a couple of minutes – it’ll help loosen the adhesive and make the process a whole lot easier. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 20
– Grab your trusty Torx T3 screwdriver and let’s get those two 5.1 mm-long screws out of the way that are holding the charging port bracket in place. You’ve got this!
Step 21
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift out the charging port bracket. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Grab your trusty Torx T3 screwdriver and let’s get to work! Unscrew those six screws, each 5.1 mm long, that are holding the midframe in place. You’re doing great!
Step 23
– Time to get a little handy! Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the midframe.
– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to check the thermal pad. If it’s looking a bit worse for wear, gently remove it, clean the area with some high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and then apply a brand new thermal pad. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 25
When it’s time to heat things up, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be your new best friend. Just remember, it’s all about finding that sweet spot – the edge should feel slightly too hot to touch, but not smoldering. If you’re unsure, don’t worry, you can always schedule a repair and let the pros at Salvation Repair guide you through it.
– Give your device a warm hug with a heated iOpener on its back to help loosen up that stubborn adhesive waiting underneath. Make sure to let the iOpener work its magic for at least 3 minutes!
Step 27
Don’t stress if the release strip gets lost or torn – we’ve got a backup plan. Just head to the next step for an alternative way to remove the battery.
Take your time and be gentle. It’s super easy to lose your grip and accidentally pull the tab up from under the battery, so move slowly and carefully.
Having trouble getting the adhesive to separate? Apply a bit more heat and wait for it to loosen up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 28
Be careful with that alcohol – too much can loosen the NFC antenna and charging coil under the battery, and that’s not what you want.
Handle the battery with care, and avoid puncturing or bending it with your tool. A damaged battery can leak chemicals or even cause a fire, so let’s avoid that. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Let’s get this repair started! Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (we’re talking 90% or higher) into the gap at the top edge of the battery.
– Now it’s time to get a little leverage – use the flat end of a spudger or an opening pick to gently pry the top edge of the battery loose until you can grab it with your fingers.
– Take a minute to let the alcohol solution work its magic and weaken the adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair with the pros at Salvation Repair.
Tools Used
Step 29
Refrain from putting in a battery that’s seen better days or looks a bit wonky—your safety is super important!
– Alrighty, let’s get your device back to tip-top shape! First, gently wiggle that battery out and give it some space. Farewell, old battery buddy! Now, if you’ve just got a new one, you can stick it right in. But hey, if you’re doing some upgrades, try sticking that new adhesive at the usual spots. Just like that, no need to stick it straight on the battery, though! Ah, reconnect that beauty for a sec while aligning – then sayonara again. Make sure you center your new friend and give it an even welcome. Press it in nice and snug, and you’re good to go! If you need any more help, we’ve got your back. Just hit us up at schedule a repair!
