DIY Guide: Replace Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Charging Port Daughterboard

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 23 Steps

Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out a faulty charging port daughterboard in your Samsung Galaxy S6! This little gem houses the audio jack, charging port, and those handy side buttons. Just a heads up, you’ll need to remove the rear glass to get to it, and doing so will mean saying goodbye to the adhesive keeping it snug. But don’t worry, we’ll guide you through the process of reattaching that rear glass like a pro. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– Grab a paper clip or SIM eject tool and pop it into the hole in the SIM card slot at the top of your phone.

– Give it a little press to eject that SIM card tray.

– Now, just slide the SIM card tray out of your phone. Simple as that!

Step 2

– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 3

– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.

– As you work your magic on the repair, don’t forget to give your iOpener a warm hug—reheat it every thirty seconds or so when it starts to cool off.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 4

– Grab the iOpener from the microwave, making sure to hold it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of the hot center.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 5

– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.

– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first!

– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and getting cozy.

– Using tongs (because we want to keep those fingers safe), fish out the heated iOpener from the water.

– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy iOpener!

– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 6

– Alrighty then, let’s get those gears turning! We got you. First off, let that clever iOpener work its magic for a couple of minutes by laying it flat on the rear panel, concentrating on that adhesive around the edge of the glass. Wowee, we’re off to a great start! Now, scoot that iOpener over and give the other half of the panel some tlc by applying heat there for another pair of minutes. You’re doing an amazing job, champ!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 7

– Heat up the rear glass until it’s warm to the touch, then slap a suction cup near the bottom edge.

– Lift the suction cup to make a small gap under the rear glass, and slide in an opening pick.

Step 8

– Gently glide the trusty pick along the bottom edge of the device to effortlessly cut through the adhesive that holds the rear glass in place.

Step 9

– Get ready to rock and roll! Repeat the heat and cut dance on the other three sides of the phone.

– Make sure to tuck in an opening pick under each edge to keep the adhesive from throwing a closing party.

Step 10

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.

– Carefully lift off the rear glass and set it aside.

Step 11

– Installing new rear glass? Here’s how to do it:

– Reattaching your old rear glass or using glass without pre-installed adhesive? Follow this guide.

– Grab some tweezers and get rid of any leftover adhesive on the phone’s chassis.

– Clean the adhesion areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, no back and forth! This preps the surface for the new adhesive.

– Peel the adhesive backing off the new rear glass, carefully align one edge with the phone chassis, and press it firmly onto the phone.

Tools Used
  1. Tweezers

Step 12

– Let’s get those thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws out of the midframe and get started on this journey together!

Step 13

– Push down on the back of the battery and gently lift the edges of the midframe to separate it from the rest of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Step 14

– With the friendly spudger, disconnect the battery ribbon cable from the motherboard with a smile.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 15

– It’s time to disconnect the home button ribbon cable! Check out that little cable nestled on the motherboard. Carefully give it a gentle tug and release it from its cozy spot. We’re almost there, buddy! If you need any help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 16

– Grab that trusty spudger and use its pointy end to carefully detach the two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 17

– Gently unplug the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 18

– Go ahead and give the earpiece ribbon cable a break from the motherboard.

Step 19

– Hold onto the motherboard by the edges near the top of your device—you’re doing great!

– Gently lift the motherboard up and away from the display, but keep an eye on that daughterboard ribbon cable; we don’t want to stress it out too much!

Step 20

– Gently detach the fancy daughterboard ribbon cable from the hidden side of the motherboard.

Step 21

– You’ve got this! Just loosen those two 2.5mm Phillips #00 screws and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Step 22

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift up the little section of the daughterboard that’s been sticking around thanks to a bit of light adhesive. You’ve got this!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 23

– Gently lift the daughterboard up and away from the phone’s body to set it free.

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