DIY Guide to Removing the Mainboard in Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

– The back of your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge is stuck on there pretty tightly, thanks to some serious glue action. To get it off, you’ll want to warm it up with a heat gun to loosen that adhesive. Once it’s nice and toasty, grab a plastic pick and gently slide it into the tiny gap between the frame and the glass to break the seal.

– Speaking of that gap, it’s pretty narrow! So, make sure to use a flat, sturdy tool to wiggle your way in there without any fuss.

– Now, with a suction cup in hand, carefully lift the back cover. You’re doing great!

– As soon as you see a little opening, slide in the plastic pick to keep the aluminum safe from any mishaps. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide a pick about 2-3 millimeters between the back cover and frame. We don’t want to cause any internal mayhem! Remember, the inside of the back cover is painted, so be extra careful.

– The back cover’s glued on tight – like a stubborn friend! Work the pick around the entire phone to loosen that adhesive.

– Once the glue’s released, carefully lift the back cover. You’re doing great!

– Time to tackle those 13 Phillips screws keeping the plastic cover snug as a bug! Grab your trusty screwdriver and get to work on those 13 x 3.3 mm Phillips screws (check out figure 1 for a visual!).

– Next up, let’s pop out the SIM card tray. It’s like a little treasure waiting to be found!

– Now, gently lift the charging pad for wireless charging. It’s got a light glue bond with the midframe, so a little nudge should do the trick.

– To free the midframe, give the battery a gentle push down while using your other hand to lift the frame up. If it’s feeling stubborn, don’t worry! Just slide a pick between the display and the frame and give it a little upward nudge. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide the pointed tip of the spudger just below the contact and give it a little lift. Be cautious not to knock off those tiny resistors glued to the logic board—they’re important!

– Now it’s time to disconnect the front camera connector. Take your time and handle it with care!

– Alright, let’s get started! First up, you’ll want to disconnect a few contacts. Grab your spudger and gently slide the pointed tip just below the contacts, then lift them up like you’re raising the roof! Don’t forget to disconnect the Battery, Display (connect the new display and test all the functions), Earpiece, Home button, and those two sneaky antenna connectors.

– Next, slide that spudger below the logic board at the antenna connector level, and go ahead and disconnect the dock connector cable set hiding underneath. You’ve got this!

– Now it’s time to say goodbye to the logic board. Give it a gentle lift and remove it with care. You’re doing great!

– Reconnect the dock connector cable set along with the two antenna cables to the logic board. Once that’s done, gently place it back into the frame.

– After you’ve got it snugly in place, it’s time to install the rest of the logic board. Just be sure those cables don’t sneak under the logic board. Check the picture to ensure your logic board is sitting just right.

– Now, let’s get all the connectors back in action: Battery, Display, Earpiece, and Home button!

– Time to place that front camera back where it belongs!

– Next up, connect the connector to the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Let’s get that outer frame back on the main component! Start at the dock connector and give those two frame pieces a nice, firm press to lock them in place.

– Once they’re snug, it’s time to secure them with screws. Grab your 13 x 3.3 mm Phillips screws and tighten them up!

– Alright, it’s time to wrap things up! Grab that back cover and get ready to put it back on.

– Don’t worry, the old glue is usually still holding on tight.

– Just place the back cover on, give it a little warmth, and then press it down gently for a bit. You’ve got this!