DIY Guide to Replace Apple iPad 3G Battery

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 34 Steps

Ready to give your iPad a new lease on life? Let’s swap out that battery! If you notice any swelling, make sure to take the right precautions. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 1

– If your display glass has decided to crack, let’s keep those shards in check and avoid any unintentional finger pokes during your repair. Grab some tape and let’s get to work!

– Layer on some clear packing tape, overlapping the strips until the entire face of the iPad is covered. Think of it as a protective shield for your device.

– Now, just follow the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass starts to break, it might want to keep cracking while you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the glass.

Step 2

– Carefully slide a metal spudger between the right edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

– Gently rotate the spudger away from you to free up those tabs at the top edge of the display. Easy peasy!

Step 3

– Slide a second metal spudger into the gap at the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly. This will help keep those pesky tabs from bouncing back into place.

– Gently pry the display assembly away from the rear panel. You’re doing great!

Step 4

– Keep gently working your way around the bottom and left edges of the iPad, carefully separating the display assembly from the rear panel. You’re doing great!

Step 5

– Gently lift the display assembly from the rear panel assembly, starting from the bottom edge. You’ve got this!

Step 6

– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently nudge the antenna connector nearest the bottom of the iPad. Give it a little lift off its cozy spot on the communications board, and you’re on your way!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 7

– Alright, let’s dive into this! First up, we’re going to gently detach the three cables that connect the display assembly to the logic board. These little guys are responsible for some important components, so let’s treat them with care!

Step 8

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge those little retaining flaps up so the digitizer ribbon cables can dance their way out of the logic board’s sockets.

– Now, give those digitizer ribbon cables a gentle pull straight out of their cozy sockets.

Step 9

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge the ambient light sensor connector upward to free it from its cozy little socket. Easy peasy!

Step 10

– Time to disconnect that display data cable from the main board! Just flip up the metal retainer using the handy black plastic pull tab.

– Now, gently pull the cable connector away from its cozy socket.

Step 11

– Gently detach the display assembly from the rear panel assembly. Time to set that screen free!

Step 12

– Gently slide the edge of an iPod opening tool under the antenna connector and lift it off the communications board with care.

Step 13

– Gently guide the control button cable along the top edge of the communications board. You’re doing great!

– Carefully pull the communications cable upward to pop its connector out of the socket on the logic board. Easy peasy!

Step 14

– Time to get your tech back on track. First, remove the single T5 Torx screw that’s holding the communications board in place. Don’t worry if it’s a bit stuck – you got this!

Step 15

– Gently wiggle the communications board free from its cozy spot on the logic board.

Step 16

– Gently peel back the rubber EMI shield that’s snugly covering the GPS antenna socket. You’ve got this!

– Grab the edge of an iPod opening tool and flip up the GPS ribbon cable retaining flap that’s holding onto the GPS cable’s socket on the logic board. Easy peasy!

Step 17

– Gently wiggle the GPS antenna ribbon cable and slide it out of its cozy socket.

Step 18

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently nudge up the retaining flap on the headphone jack/microphone socket. It’s like giving it a little friendly push!

– Now, with a smooth motion, pull the headphone jack/microphone ribbon cable out of its cozy socket. You’ve got this!

Step 19

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently lift the SIM board connector off its socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!

Step 20

– Gently fold the SIM cable down towards the bottom of the iPad to reveal the speaker connector.

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and carefully lift the speaker connector out of its cozy spot on the logic board.

Step 21

– Time to unscrew! Carefully take out the screws that are holding the logic board in place against the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

Step 22

– Gently slide the edge of an iPod opening tool under the dock cable connector and carefully lift it straight up off the logic board. You’ve got this!

Step 23

– Time to give that logic board some air! Carefully lift it up and out of the rear panel assembly. You got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Step 24

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently pry away the SIM board from the sticky adhesive that’s holding it snugly against the rear case.

– Carefully lift the SIM board out of your iPad and set it aside.

Step 25

– First things first, let’s tackle those two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws that are holding the speaker assembly snug against the rear panel. Get them out and set them aside!

– Next up, there’s a lone T5 Torx screw hanging out in the middle of the dock cable. Give it a gentle twist to remove it from the rear panel assembly. You got this!

Step 26

– Take a moment to grab your trusty screwdriver and remove those two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws holding the dock connector cable in place on the rear case. You’re doing great!

Step 27

– Grab your trusty iPod opening tool and gently pry off the plastic cover that’s keeping the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable under wraps. You’re doing great!

Step 28

– Gently lift the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas from their cozy spots on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board. You’ve got this!

Step 29

– Gently pop the dock connector cable out from the rear panel assembly. You’ve got this!

Step 30

– Carefully guide the speaker cable away from the left side of the battery case. You’re doing great!

– Gently thread the Wi-Fi antenna through its designated channel in the speaker assembly. Keep it up!

Step 31

– Gently lift the speaker assembly and slide it forward until the ports are free from the lower case. You’ve got this!

– Carefully detach the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly. You’re on your way to a successful repair!

Step 32

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently nudge the battery away from the lower case. Be gentle, we’re not trying to start a wrestling match here!

– Keep that spudger moving and wiggle it a bit to widen the gap as you slide it along the right side of the battery. You’re doing great!

– Continue to pry until the right side of the battery is completely free from the rear panel. Almost there, keep it up!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 33

– Slide the flat end of a spudger gently under the top edge of the battery and keep working to break the adhesive loose.

– Keep at it until the top of the battery pops free from the rear panel!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 34

– Once you’ve got enough space, gently use your fingers to lift the battery away from any sticky adhesive that’s still holding it to the back panel.

– Carefully take the battery out from the rear panel.

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