DIY Guide to Replace iPad CDMA Speaker Assembly
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Hey there! Just a little reminder: Proceed with caution and be gentle! We want your device to be happy and healthy. If you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair!
Get ready to swap out that speaker assembly! Just a heads up, some of the pictures in this guide were taken with a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from your cellular model. But no worries—the steps are pretty much the same for both, with a few exceptions noted along the way. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in, as any stubborn mess on the bottom might cling to the iOpener. Let’s keep things neat and tidy for a smoother repair experience!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during the repair—nobody wants a surprise burst! Make sure it doesn’t get hotter than 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks a bit puffed up, it’s best to steer clear.
If the center of the iOpener is still a bit too toasty for your touch, hang tight and let it cool down a bit more before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should keep its warmth for up to 10 minutes.
– Give your iOpener a quick thirty-second warm-up in the microwave.
– As you work your magic on the device, keep the iOpener nice and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if things get a bit too warm!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to keep your fingers away from the hot middle. Stay safe and keep that cool vibe going!
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Step 4
If you’re not rocking a microwave, no worries! Just pop your iOpener in some boiling water to give it a little warmth.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Get that water boiling and then turn off the heat. We’re not trying to cook anything here!
– Gently place your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged to feel the love.
– Using tongs (safety first!), carefully fish out the heated iOpener from its warm water retreat.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy iOpener!
– And just like that, your iOpener is ready to work its magic! If it needs a little extra warmth, just repeat the soaking process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let your iOpener chill in there for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s delicate!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep it from shattering further and protect yourself while you work by applying some tape over it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the entire face of your device until it’s fully covered. You’re doing great!
– Try your best to stick to the rest of the guide as we go along. Just a heads up, once the glass is cracked, it might keep on cracking as you progress. If that happens, don’t be shy about using a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Just a quick heads up! When dealing with shattered glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses to shield your eyes from any sneaky flying shards. Better safe than sorry, right?
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, giving it a little love tap to ensure it makes solid contact with the surface.
– Allow the bag to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving in to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic tool a little wiggle as needed. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s use that little opening to our advantage!
– Grab your tool and align it with the mute button. Now, gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip—enough to give that crack a little wiggle!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly in place between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that sweet little gap right next to the tool. You’ve got this!
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide that opening pick in a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle with it.
If you spot the tip of your trusty opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug! While it’s totally fine to use the pick this deep, just a heads up that you might end up with some adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, though! Just keep it light and fun as you work through this repair.
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s get started on loosening that stubborn adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive like a pro as you go along.
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. How long it’s been cooling off while you were working can influence this step, so keep an eye on it!
– If your trusty opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll be on your way to freeing that sticky situation!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick out from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick right under the edge of the front glass on the right side. This little move will keep that adhesive from getting all clingy again!
– Give your iOpener a quick reheat, and then shift it up to the top edge of your iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy while we work!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given how it’s positioned, it’s super important to handle this part with care to avoid any unintentional damage to the antenna. You’ve got this!
– Alright, let’s tread carefully through these next few steps!
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel, making sure not to harm the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps with care.
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: steer clear of sliding that pick past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky and hangs out near the corner, so be gentle. If you’re not careful with the adhesive, it could get a bit too friendly with your pick and get severed. Stay sharp and take your time!
Keep that pick snugly under the front glass—just a little peekaboo! Pull it out gently so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip is still hanging out under the glass. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Alright, you’ve successfully navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or right by the home button). Now, gently reinsert that opening pick all the way in.
– Now, slide the pick to the right and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass gives way. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep the iOpener dance moves to a minute at a time, and make sure to give it a cool-down period of at least two minutes before bringing it back to the party.
– Keep gently peeling away the sticky stuff along the bottom of your iPad. Slide that opening pick around the home button, and once you’ve got it past that little guy, push it in about half an inch (10 mm). You’re doing great!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all gone!
– Pop the opening pick in place under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This area has some seriously strong adhesive, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take it slow and steady—no need to rush and risk a slip that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ action as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling a bit too cozy, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a smoother experience. But if it’s still hanging on tight, just give the iOpener another warm-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2 inches (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, make sure to stop when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You got this!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting the adhesive give way as you move. The adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along that entire side. Just be careful not to go too deep—keep it to a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 25
Be extra cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable hangs out just about an inch (25 mm) from the base of your iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid any accidental snips!
– Grab that trusty opening pick you’ve got tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad. Let’s free the adhesive along the bottom left corner, shall we?
Step 26
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it in place!
Step 27
Watch out for any sneaky adhesive that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and carefully slice through any stubborn bits that are keeping the front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a nice clean-up. Say goodbye to dust and fingerprints before sealing the glass back on!
Step 28
– Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws that are holding the LCD to the rear case. You’re just a few steps away from giving your device a new lease on life!
Step 29
– The front panel ribbon cables are hiding beneath the LCD. To uncover them, just give the LCD a little flip over and out of the way for a moment.
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge that’s closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book.
– Now, set the LCD face down on the front panel and you’re all set!
Step 30
Just a friendly reminder: make sure you’re gently lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. You’ve got this!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a cheerful red!
– Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Gently slide the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool to lift the digitizer cable off the logic board shields. It’s like peeling a sticker, but way cooler!
– Carefully detach the digitizer cable from the adhesive that’s holding it snug against the rear case. Take your time; it’s a delicate dance!
Step 32
– Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it straight out of its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 33
To get that front panel assembly off, you’ll need to gently coax the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little wiggle of the LCD will give you the extra space you need. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge that’s farthest from the digitizer cable and gracefully flip it toward the rear case—just like you’re closing a book with style.
– While you’re holding the LCD up, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a little reminder to be cautious and avoid snagging that digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD. You’ve got this!
Step 34
To dive into the iPad’s inner workings, let’s gently lift the LCD out of its cozy case.
– Gently lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like flipping a page in your favorite book.
– Carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath can help keep it scratch-free and happy.
Step 35
Remember, when you’re disconnecting that connector, give it a gentle nudge sideways instead of pulling it up. Your device will thank you for it!
– Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel, giving it a cozy spot.
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and lift that display data cable lock upwards with a little finesse.
– Now, with a smooth motion, pull the display data cable out of its socket like a pro.
Step 37
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the tape off the dock connector cable like a pro.
– Use the edge of that trusty plastic opening tool to carefully nudge the dock connector cable’s connector up and out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
– Peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel with a steady hand. You’re doing great!
Step 38
– Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 39
– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove those two 2.1 mm screws that are holding the logic board bracket snugly against the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket.
– Once those screws are out, gently lift away the logic board bracket from the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 40
Be gentle when disconnecting the cable—lift it straight out, not up!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retainer that’s holding the control board cable connector snugly in its socket on the logic board.
– Now, give that connector a little tug and pull it away from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 41
– Unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communications boards snugly against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 42
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep the logic board close to the back case. Those antennas are still hanging on for dear life!
– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and lift it up from the sticky adhesive that’s holding it to the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 43
– Gently lift the top of the logic board and unplug those two antennas hanging out on the left side.
– Swing the logic board towards the center of the iPad and disconnect the last antenna at the top like a pro.
– Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna located at the bottom of the logic board to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 45
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick minute to get it nice and toasty.
– Once it’s warmed up, place the iOpener on the back of your iPad, just to the right of center (that’s the side away from the rear-facing camera). Let it chill there for 90 seconds to help loosen up that pesky battery adhesive.
– Next, shift the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let it hang out for another 90 seconds.
– Finally, move the iOpener over to the left edge (the side with the rear-facing camera) of the back of the iPad and let it sit there for another 90 seconds.
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Step 46
– Kick things off by grabbing the battery cell that’s closest to the dock connector. Slide a plastic opening tool gently under the edge of the battery nearest to the logic board void. This will create just enough space to slip in the flat end of a spudger.
– Next up, take that spudger and glide it along the two long sides of each battery cell. This will help you completely detach them from the adhesive that’s holding them snugly to the rear case.
– If the adhesive is being a bit stubborn, no worries! Just reheat the rear panel and give it another go.
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Step 47
Handle the battery connector board with care—no extreme bending, please! And when you’re gently prying around that little post on the aluminum rear case, just take it easy and be cautious. You’ve got this!
– Before you pop up that middle battery cell, grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the battery connector board away from the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 48
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and gently work your way along the long sides of the middle battery cell to loosen that adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Once you’ve tackled that, repeat the same process for the last battery cell. If things get a bit sticky, don’t hesitate to give the case a little heat boost!
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Step 49
– Gently pop that battery out of the back panel and set it free from your iPad 2! You’ve got this!
Step 50
– Gently lift the dock connector and speaker cables to uncover the Wi-Fi antenna cable. You’ve got this!
– Carefully detach the Wi-Fi antenna cable from the rear panel. Easy peasy!
Step 51
– Unscrew those four little screws right there!
Step 52
– Gently peel the Wi-Fi antenna away from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 53
Make sure those tiny rings of EMI foam are still cozy on the dock connector cable.
– Gently detach the dock connector cable from the speaker cable. Make sure to handle it with care, so everything stays in good shape!
Step 54
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the edge of that big strip of tape holding the speaker assembly snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a little finesse, use your fingers to peel that tape away from the speaker assembly. Easy peasy!
Step 55
– Unscrew the two screws listed below and let the adventure begin!
Step 56
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the speaker assembly out from its cozy spot on the right side of the rear panel.
– Carefully lift the speaker assembly out of the iPad 2 and give it a little wave goodbye!
