DIY Guide to Replace iPhone 16 Rear Camera Assembly – Step-by-Step Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 28 Steps
Get ready to tackle the rear camera assembly replacement for your iPhone 16! Remember, the ultrawide and telephoto cameras are snugly packed into one assembly, so if one goes kaput, you’ll need to swap out both. If your photos and videos are looking a bit fuzzy or noisy, or if your cameras are playing hard to focus, it’s time for a replacement. Don’t forget to grab some replacement back glass adhesive to wrap things up nicely. After you’ve worked your magic, make sure to calibrate those authentic Apple rear cameras with Repair Assistant. Happy repairing! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Let your phone’s battery dip below 25%! A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a drama queen when it comes to safety.
– Wave goodbye to those pesky cables and unplug them from your phone.
– Press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to turn off your phone. Easy peasy!
Step 2
Ensure there’s a smooth spot near the bottom edge that’s large enough for a suction cup to attach securely.
– If your screen or back glass is looking a bit worse for wear, don’t worry! Just grab some packing tape and lay down some overlapping strips over the glass. This will keep you safe and make it a breeze to take things apart.
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Step 3
– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe driver and carefully unscrew the two 7.7 mm-long screws flanking the charging port. It’s a simple step that gets you closer to fixing your device!
Step 4
Be careful not to push your opening pick in too deep; it might just end up giving your device a little too much love. To keep things safe, take a moment to mark your pick—this way, you can avoid any accidental damage.
Feel free to add some flair by marking the other corners of your pick with varying measurements. It’s like giving your tool a personality!
If you want to get creative, try taping a coin about 3 mm from the tip of your pick. It’s a handy little trick!
– Grab your trusty opening pick and measure about 3 mm from the tip. Give it a little mark with a permanent marker so you know where to go!
Step 5
Get ready for a smooth opening experience with the Anti-Clamp! In the next four steps, we’ll show you how this handy tool can make your life easier. If you don’t have an Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just jump ahead four steps for a different approach.
The Anti-Clamp works its magic by applying suction to both the screen and the back glass. If you’re just looking to open the back glass, make sure to tape down the screen first. And if you’re curious, you can find detailed instructions on how to use that tape.
Want to master the Anti-Clamp? Check out our guide for all the nitty-gritty details.
Just a quick reminder: the tape should only be securing the screen, leaving the back glass free and clear!
– Grab two strips of tape, stick them along the long sides of your phone, and fold them over the screen to keep everything nice and secure. You’ve got this!
Step 6
If your iPhone’s surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, just grab some tape and make that surface a little stickier!
– Give the Anti-Clamp’s blue handle a little tug back to set those arms free!
– With the back glass facing up, gently slide the arms over the right edge of your phone. One suction cup should be on the back glass, while the other takes a spot on the screen. Aim to center those cups near the bottom edge.
– Keep your phone steady and level between the Anti-Clamp’s arms—a small box does wonders for support.
– Squeeze those cups together and watch the magic of suction happen!
Step 7
If you’re out of tape, a little warmth on those suction cups can do the trick to get them to stick better!
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.
– Now, let’s give that handle a full twist—360 degrees, baby! Keep turning until you see those cups start to stretch.
– As those cups stretch out, keep an eye on their alignment. If they start to wiggle out of line, no worries! Just pop off the Anti-Clamp and slap on some tape to keep those cups nice and secure.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the heat! Don’t let your phone get too toasty—the battery really doesn’t like it when things get too hot. Stay cool and happy repairing!
If nothing is happening after a minute, don’t sweat it! Just crank up the heat a bit more and give that handle a little spin—maybe a quarter turn will do the trick. Let the Anti‑Clamp and your patience do their magic!
– Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and gently warm up the bottom edge of the back glass until it feels nice and toasty.
– Hang tight for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little gap between the back glass and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into that newly formed gap.
– Use the pull tabs on the suction cups to easily remove the Anti-Clamp.
– Feel free to skip the next two steps.
Tools Used
Step 9
Feeling a bit chilly about that back glass? Warm it up with an iOpener! Just follow these simple steps to heat it up and apply the iOpener like a pro.
– Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and give the bottom edge of that back glass a warm hug until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
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Step 10
– Grab a suction handle and stick it to the bottom edge of that back glass like you mean it.
– With one hand keeping the frame steady, give that handle a firm, steady pull to wiggle a gap open between the back glass and the frame.
– Now, slide the tip of your trusty opening pick into that gap you’ve just created.
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Step 11
As you carefully cut through the adhesive holding the back glass in place, remember to keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm. We don’t want to accidentally poke into any sensitive areas, so let’s stay safe and sound!
– Watch out for that delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume down button. It’s a bit sensitive, so steer clear with your pick to keep it intact!
– You’ll find several spring contacts dancing around the perimeter of the phone. Just give them some space and they’ll be happy!
Step 12
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and give the right edge of that back glass a warm hug until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
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Step 13
Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than 3 mm—so you don’t accidentally mess up those spring contacts.
Steer clear of sliding past the volume buttons; we wouldn’t want you to cramp that wireless charging cable’s style.
As you glide through, you’ll hear and feel that satisfying metal clip pop free.
– Gently glide your pick around the bottom right corner and make your way to the volume down button to break free the adhesive and pop that metal clip loose.
– Keep that pick in place to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 14
– Grab a hair dryer or a heat gun and gently warm up the left edge of the back glass until it feels nice and toasty to the touch.
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Step 15
Keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm to steer clear of any mishaps with those delicate spring contacts!
As you glide through, you’ll hear and feel those metal clips giving way – it’s like a little victory dance!
– Pop in a second opening pick at the bottom edge—just like a secret agent sneaking in!
– Gently glide that second pick around the bottom left corner and along the left edge to break free the adhesive and release those pesky metal clips.
– Keep this pick snugly in place at the top left corner to keep the adhesive from trying to seal up again!
Step 16
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and give the top edge of that back glass a warm hug until it’s nice and toasty!
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Step 17
Keep your pick within 3 mm to steer clear of those tricky spring contacts. Trust us, they prefer to stay intact!
You’ll feel and hear those metal clips pop free as you glide past them.
– Gently slide your second opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to break up that stubborn adhesive and free those metal clips.
– Keep on sliding your pick around the top right corner until you hit the Action button—you’re almost there!
– Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again.
Step 18
Alright, at this stage, the back glass should be happily separated from the frame. If it feels like it’s playing hard to get, take a stroll around the edges with your pick to see if there are any sneaky bits of adhesive or clips that need a little extra love.
– Gently swing the back glass to the right to break free from the last stubborn adhesive hold.
– Prop up the back glass with something clean and solid to keep it steady while you work.
– Before you dive back in, make sure to remove those opening picks!
Step 19
– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver and remove those two 1 mm-long screws that are holding down the middle connector cover. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Gently slide the tip of a spudger into one of the cutouts on the middle connector cover. You’ve got this!
– Now, give that cover a little nudge to the left to free the hook from its cozy spot on the logic board.
– Time to take off the cover and enjoy a little victory!
– When you’re putting things back together, make sure the hook lines up perfectly with its slot on the logic board. Press down the cover firmly and slide it to the right to lock that hook back in place. You’re doing great!
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Step 21
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that battery press connector. You’ve got this!
– When you’re putting everything back together, take a moment to line up the connector right over its socket. Give it a little press with your fingertip—start on one side, then switch to the other—until you hear that satisfying click. No need to force it! If things aren’t lining up, just readjust and give it another go. Remember, patience is key!
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Step 22
– Grab the point of your trusty spudger and gently wiggle it to lift and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 23
Now’s the perfect time to give your repair a quick test drive before sealing everything up. Just reconnect the battery and the back glass temporarily, power up your phone, and see if it’s running like a champ! If all looks good, power it down and let’s get back to reassembling.
– Gently pop the back glass off the frame and set it aside. You’re doing great!
– As you put it all back together:
– Follow this guide to reapply the adhesive and securely attach your back glass again. You’ve got this!
Step 24
– Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s tackle those screws holding the top bracket in place:
– One Phillips screw that’s 3.5 mm long, just waiting to be unscrewed.
– Two Phillips screws that are 1.4 mm long, ready to come out.
– And don’t forget the one 1.0 mm long tri-point Y000 screw, it’s a little different, but we got this!
Step 25
– Grab some tweezers or use those handy fingers of yours to gently lift off the top bracket. You’ve got this!
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Step 26
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the rear camera assembly press connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 27
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those three screws out of the rear camera assembly. Here’s what you need to take off:
– One screw that’s 2.3 mm long
– One screw that’s 4.7 mm long
– One screw that’s 3.2 mm long
Step 28
– Gently slide the pointy end of your trusty spudger into the top screw hole of the rear camera assembly. You’ve got this!
– Carefully lift the rear camera assembly out of the frame and set it aside. Easy peasy, right?
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