DIY Guide to Replace MacBook Pro 13 Early 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 20 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: tackling repairs can get a bit tricky, so take your time and don’t rush it. If you find yourself in a jam, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair. We’ve got your back!
Ready to tackle that broken MagSafe DC-In board? You’ve got this! Follow along with our guide and let’s get your device back in action. And remember, if you ever feel stuck, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
– Time to get those screws out! Go ahead and unscrew the ten screws listed below:
Step 2
– Gently use your fingers to lift the lower case away from the MacBook’s body, especially near the vent. It’s like giving your laptop a little hug!
– Carefully take off the lower case.
Step 3
Gently nudge the short sides of the connector upward to help it ease out of its socket. Just a heads-up: those corners can be a bit fragile, so handle them with care to avoid any breakage.
– Gently slide the edge of a spudger under the battery connector and give it a little nudge upwards to pop it out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 4
– Gently nudge the battery cable a little away from its cozy spot on the logic board. This way, it won’t accidentally reconnect while you’re in the zone working your magic.
Step 5
In the second and third pictures, you’ll spot the fan socket and the fan connector. Just a friendly reminder: be gentle as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket—nobody wants to accidentally snap off that plastic fan socket from the logic board! While the layout of the logic board in the second picture might look a tad different from your device, rest assured, the fan socket remains the same.
Step 6
– Unscrew those three little screws that are holding the fan snugly against the logic board. Let’s give that fan some freedom!
Step 7
– Gently lift the fan out from its snug spot on the logic board, being careful of its cable that might want to tag along.
Step 8
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the tip under the right speaker/subwoofer cable. Give it a little tug to free it from the retaining finger that’s holding it snug against the upper case.
– Now, pull that right speaker/subwoofer cable up with a little finesse to lift the connector right out of its cozy home on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 9
– Unplug that camera cable from the logic board and give it some space!
Step 10
Using the flat end of a spudger, gently nudge those pesky cable connectors up and away from the logic board’s sockets. You’ve got this!
– Time to unplug the party! Disconnect these four cables:
Tools Used
Step 11
Make sure to gently pry up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Give that retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket a gentle lift with your fingernail—it’s like a little magic trick!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and carefully pull that keyboard ribbon cable out of its cozy home.
– If the cable seems a bit stubborn, no worries! Just stick a piece of tape to it for a little extra guidance as you slide it back into the socket.
Tools Used
Step 13
Make sure you’re lifting the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You got this!
– Grab the tip of a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently lift the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
– Carefully pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its cozy socket.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Gently nudge the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its cozy spot on the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. It’s like giving it a little lift to say, ‘Hey there, time to get to work!’
Tools Used
Step 15
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: avoid pulling up on the display data cable, as that socket is as delicate as a butterfly. Instead, gently pull the cable parallel to the logic board’s surface. You’ve got this!
– Take hold of the handy plastic pull tab that’s keeping the display data cable lock in place and give it a gentle twist toward the DC-In side of your device.
– Now, with confidence, pull the display data cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 16
For some models, you might notice that the screws are a tad shorter, like they’re trying to save a little weight!
– Get ready to tackle this task by unscrewing these nine little guys:
Step 17
– Let’s get started by unscrewing these two little guys:
– Next up, gently take off the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
Step 19
– Gently lift the logic board from the side closest to the optical drive, being careful of all those little connectors hanging out near the edges.
– With a steady hand, slide the board out of the upper case without bending it, keeping an eye on the flexible connection to the DC-In board—don’t let it get snagged!
– And voilà, the logic board is free! You’ve done it.
Step 20
Avoid yanking that connector up! Lifting it straight could lead to the socket getting detached from the logic board, and we definitely don’t want that to happen.
– Gently tug the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to free it from the logic board. You’ve got this!
– Now, go ahead and remove the MagSafe DC-In board. Easy peasy!
