DIY iPad 2 GSM Front Facing Camera Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 41 Steps
Hey there! Just a little heads up: make sure you’re working in a comfy space with good lighting. We want you to feel great while you tackle this repair! And remember, if you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help!
Get ready to swap out that pesky broken front-facing camera! Just a heads up, parts of this guide were filmed using a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a bit different from the cellular version. Don’t worry, though—the steps are pretty much the same for both models, except where we point out any differences. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before diving into the repair, give your microwave a quick clean-up! That pesky gunk on the bottom might just stick to the iOpener, and nobody wants that. Let’s keep things neat and tidy for a smooth repair experience!
– Position the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
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Step 2
Watch out for that iOpener—overheating can lead to some serious pop! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to avoid any surprises.
If the iOpener is looking a little puffy, steer clear! Safety first, folks.
If the center of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, hang tight and let it cool down a bit longer before giving it another go. A well-heated iOpener should keep its cozy warmth for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a cozy thirty seconds in the microwave to warm it up!
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!
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Step 3
Careful now! The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so handle it with care. A trusty oven mitt might just be your best buddy here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the toasty center.
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Step 4
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Heat that water until it’s bubbling away, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s having a good soak in there!
– Using some tongs (because we don’t want any burns!), take out that heated iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good drying with a towel to make sure it’s all set.
– And voila! Your iOpener is all prepped and ready to roll! If it needs another round in the hot tub, just repeat the boiling process for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and with a little finesse, pop out that SIM card tray like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and set it aside from the iPad 2.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new replacement!
Step 7
Pop on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—let’s keep it in one piece!
– If your display glass has a crack, let’s keep things safe and sound! Grab some tape to contain those pesky shards and protect yourself while you work.
– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape across the iPad’s display until the entire surface is covered. It’s like giving your device a protective shield!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind, once the glass is broken, it may keep cracking as you go along. Don’t worry if you need to use a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass – you’ve got this!
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty with that broken glass, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses. They’ll keep those pesky shards from making a surprise appearance.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it’s nice and smooth for solid contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener.
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic on the iPad—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before you dive into opening that front panel.
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Step 9
Getting the wedged tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. No worries though! Just take your time and gently wiggle that plastic tool back and forth as you go. You’ve got this!
– Check it out! There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of that little vulnerability!
– Get your tool ready and line it up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just pop in the very tip of the tool, just enough to open up that crack a bit more.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool.
Step 12
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide that opening pick under the front glass, going in about half an inch. You’re doing great!
Step 14
This adhesive means business! You might need to put in some muscle, so take it slow and steady.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a bit. While using the pick this deeply won’t cause any harm, it might leave some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, just keep that in mind!
– As the iOpener works its magic on the bottom edge, let’s get started on freeing the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, letting it do the heavy lifting of releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Step 15
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to reposition the heated iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad. This little maneuver can make a big difference, especially if your iPad has had some time to cool down while you were busy working on it.
– If your opening pick seems to be having a tough time with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad. Keep at it, and you’ll free that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from sticking back down on you!
– Give the iOpener a little re-heat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things cozy while we work!
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Step 17
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given how it’s positioned, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally damage the antenna beyond repair. Let’s keep that Wi-Fi connection strong!
– Take a deep breath and remember, safety first! The next steps need your utmost care.
– Gently release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, being extra cautious not to harm those delicate connections to the iPad’s bottom. Just follow the upcoming steps and you’ll be golden!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You could accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and nobody wants that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up that stubborn adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
Carefully glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking right near the corner, and if you’re not careful with the adhesive, it might get a little too cozy and get severed. Stay sharp!
Just gently pull the pick out from under the front glass, leaving about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly in place—no need to go all the way!
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna lets go like it’s taking a well-deserved break.
Step 20
– Alright, once you’ve danced past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (or 75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—go ahead and reinsert that opening pick all the way in. You’ve got this!
– Now, slide that pick to the right like you’re spreading some butter, and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass lets go. Easy peasy!
Step 21
Keep the iOpener toasty, but not too toasty! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before heating it up again. Your device will thank you!
– Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom edge of your iPad. Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, then slide it back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you’ve passed that little button. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep working that adhesive loose all along the bottom edge of your iPad—you’re doing great!
– Once you’ve got that adhesive sorted, slide the opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and leave it there for a bit of support.
Step 24
If your adhesive has decided to take a little nap, just swap in the iOpener along the top edge and keep at it! If the iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work.
– Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful—let’s avoid any slips that could harm both you and your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be getting caught in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick like we demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still clinging on, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro!
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Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out around 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you’re sliding that pick, take a breather and stop when you’re about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You got this!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it do its magic to release that pesky adhesive as you go along. The adhesive is a bit shy here thanks to the digitizer running along the whole left side. Just remember to keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental mishaps with the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s edge. Take your time and handle with care to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still snugly under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive in the bottom left corner. Let’s get that corner popping!
Step 28
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad has decided to stick around a bit longer. No worries! Just slide a pick under the part of the iPad where the front glass is still hanging on tight and gently ‘cut’ through that adhesive. You’ve got this! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pop up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lingering around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you’re revealing a secret compartment!
– When you’re putting everything back together, remember to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a good clean. Dust and fingerprints have no place here, so let’s make it shine before we reinstall the glass!
Step 30
– Let’s get started! First, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD snugly in the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out of the rear case like a pro.
– Carefully place the LCD on the front panel, just like you see in the second picture. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Just a friendly reminder: make sure you’re gently lifting the hinged retaining flap and not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. It’s a little flip that’ll make a big difference!
– Slide that plastic tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to free it from the sticky situation it’s in with the rear panel. You’re doing great!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board. Easy peasy!
Step 33
– Pop off those three tiny 2 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the SIM slot snug against the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the headphone jack snugly attached to the rear panel. You got this!
Step 35
Hold your horses! Removing the assembly right now might not be the best idea.
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry the headphone jack away from its snug little home at the top edge of your iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Gently lift the front camera and microphone cables away from the rear panel, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.
Step 37
– Gently peel back the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector cozy and secure.
– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the front camera cable away from the headphone jack cable to disconnect them.
Step 38
– Gently lift the front camera cable away from the bottom ribbon cable that’s hanging out with the headphone jack. You’ve got this!
Step 39
Watch out for the camera, microphone, and headphone jack ribbon cables as you peel away that tape! We wouldn’t want any surprises, right?
– Peel off the red-highlighted piece of tape with care!
Step 40
– Gently lift the front camera away from the foam adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear panel.
Step 41
– Gently slide the front-facing camera cable out of the cozy channel nestled in the rear panel.
– Carefully detach the front-facing camera from your iPad, and give yourself a pat on the back for being so handy!
