DIY iPad 3 4G Battery Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Heads up! Make sure you handle those components with care. We don’t want any unexpected surprises, so take your time and double-check everything. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
If your iPad is dozing off after just a few hours, it’s battery replacement time! Follow this guide to effortlessly swap out the battery in your third generation iPad and keep the good times rolling. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom could stick to the iOpener, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s the star of the show!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on your iOpener during the repair. We don’t want it to get too hot and pop like a balloon! Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still a bit too toasty to handle, feel free to keep using it while you let it cool down a bit. A well-heated iOpener should keep its warmth for about 10 minutes.
– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work through the repair, keep the iOpener cozy by giving it another thirty-second zap whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just be your best friend here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the warm center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
Don’t have a microwave? No worries! Just pop that iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Bring that water to a boil and then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling!
– Gently place your iOpener into the hot water and let it chill there for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s fully submerged; we want it to get cozy!
– Using tongs (safety first, folks!), carefully fish out the warmed iOpener from its steamy bath.
– Give the iOpener a good towel-dry, because we want it to be nice and dry before use.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those snazzy safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with the care it deserves!
– Got a cracked display? No worries! To keep the mess in check and avoid any pesky injuries while you tackle this repair, grab some tape and cover that glass up.
– Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape all over your iPad’s screen until it’s completely protected. It’s like giving it a cozy little blanket!
– Now, just follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Keep in mind that once the glass is broken, it might want to keep cracking a bit while you work. You might need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out the glass pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads up, while you’re diving into this repair, you might encounter some sharp glass pieces. So, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses to keep those flying shards at bay!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and cozy for a solid connection between the iPad and the iOpener.
– Give it about 90 seconds to chill on the iPad before you dive in to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that stubborn wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle, but don’t sweat it! Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle here and there as needed. You’ve got this!
– You’ll notice a tiny little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little opportunity!
– Now, grab your tool and line it up with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in there, enough to give the crack a little wiggle.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. You’ve got this!
Step 10
– Take that plastic opening tool out of the iPad’s clutches and slide the opening pick in a little deeper, about 0.5 inches under the front glass. You’ve got this!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be gentle with it!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a bit. While it’s safe to use the pick this deep, it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
– As the bottom edge warms up thanks to the iOpener, start working on freeing the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, easing the adhesive loose as you go.
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Step 13
As you work on peeling off that adhesive, you might find it helpful to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad. This little move can make a difference, especially depending on how long your iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy. Just keep it in mind for a smoother experience!
– If your opening pick gets a bit too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff up. You’ve got this!
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Step 14
– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will help keep the adhesive from sticking back together like a stubborn friend who doesn’t want to leave the party.
– Give your iOpener a little re-heat love, then place it at the top edge of your iPad. You’re on the right track!
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Step 15
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of your iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Due to its unique position, it’s super important to handle it with care—messing around too much could lead to some serious damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. So, let’s take it slow and steady!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to channel your inner repair hero! Just remember, the next few steps are all about being super careful.
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. But watch out! We want to keep those delicate bits connected to the bottom of the iPad safe and sound. So, take your time and follow the upcoming steps with care.
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: avoid sliding that pick too far past the bottom right corner. Doing so could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, setting the adhesive free like a bird!
Step 17
As you tackle this step, gently glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads-up: the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out near the corner, and it can easily get a little too friendly if the adhesive isn’t handled just right. Keep it cool and steady!
Keep that pick snug under the front glass! Just give it a little tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy beneath the glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad to free up that stubborn adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You’ve got this!
Step 18
– Now that you’ve danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), it’s time to slide that opening pick back in to its full depth. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the pick to the right to set free the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating time to just one minute at a time, and give it a break for at least two minutes before heating it up again. Your repair journey will thank you for it!
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you’ve made it past the home button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm).
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Step 20
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad, you’re doing great!
– Pop in the opening pick and let it chill under the front glass by the home button.
Step 22
If the adhesive has lost its warmth, simply swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on going. If your iOpener is feeling a bit too cool, just give it another heat-up!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section is glued down pretty well, so you might need to apply some muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take out the iOpener from the iPad to make your life easier. But if it’s still hanging on tight, give that iOpener another warm-up and rest it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding that pick and take a breather!
– Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, letting it work its magic on that adhesive as you go! The adhesive here is a bit shy thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Just remember, keep the pick shallow—no more than half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid giving that digitizer a rough time. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid accidentally cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– Grab that trusty opening pick you’ve got nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently coax the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might decide to play a little game of tag and stick back down. If you find yourself in this sticky situation, just slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still holding on tight and gently ‘cut’ through that adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once you’ve got it lifted, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lingering around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel snug. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a gentle twist away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When you’re putting things back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Give that LCD a little TLC by removing any pesky dust or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.
Step 28
– Time to get those screws out! Carefully take off the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad. You’re doing great!
– Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front panel like a pro.
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that sneaky piece of tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 31
– Go ahead and flip up that little retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector – it’s like opening a secret door!
– Now, using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers, gently tug the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You got this!
– If the LCD screen is playing hard to get and doesn’t power on after you’ve reconnected the ZIF connector, don’t worry! Just give your iPad a little pep talk by holding down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until you see that glorious Apple logo pop up.
Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, making sure to avoid touching the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 33
– With the spudger’s tip in hand, gently lift the tape that’s holding down the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 34
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Give it a little nudge, and you’re on your way!
Step 35
– Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry up the adhesive hiding beneath the digitizer ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
– Once you’ve loosened that adhesive, give the digitizer ribbon cable a gentle tug to pull it straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board. Nice and easy!
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Step 36
– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 37
– With a gentle touch, wiggle those fingers and pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel off your iPad, revealing the treasures inside.
Step 38
– Gently peel back and take off the electrical tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. You’ve got this!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to flip up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 39
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, peeling away the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 40
– Gently peel off the tape that’s holding down the SIM board cable ZIF connector—time to free that little guy!
– Lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector with a little finesse.
– Now, using the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 41
If you see any electrical tape blocking the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or dock connector cable, it’s time to peel it away!
Step 42
Remember to gently pry beneath the connector, not the socket itself! Going for the socket can lead to some serious damage. Let’s keep everything in one piece, shall we?
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy homes on the logic board:
Step 43
– Unscrew those seven little screws that are holding the logic board tight against the rear aluminum panel. You’ve got this!
Step 44
– Grasp the logic board by the edge closest to the dock connector and gently slide it down towards the bottom of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 45
– Carefully flip the logic board over, keeping an eye out for any cables that might try to hitch a ride.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop off the three antenna connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board.
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Step 46
Handle the battery with care as you remove it from the iPad. These little powerhouses hold some not-so-friendly chemicals that could be a problem if they get into the wrong hands—like yours!
Step 47
The adhesive is super strong! Getting it loose will take some serious effort. Take your time and be cautious—make sure that the
