DIY iPad 4 CDMA Front Facing Camera Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Heads up! Before diving into this repair, make sure you’re in a well-lit area and have all your tools ready. If you run into any hiccups along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us. We’ve got your back!
Ready to get your selfie game back on track? Let’s dive into replacing that front-facing camera! Follow these steps, and you’ll be snapping those perfect pics in no time. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. A quick clean will help ensure that any pesky residue doesn’t stick to the iOpener during the repair. Let’s keep things neat and tidy!
– Pop that iOpener right in the center of your microwave and let the magic happen!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: be cautious not to let your iOpener get too hot while you’re working on your repair. If it overheats, it could pop, and we definitely don’t want that! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, steer clear of it. Safety first, my friend!
If the middle of your iOpener is still feeling too toasty to handle, keep using it while you let it chill a bit before giving it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener should remain cozy for up to 10 minutes!
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to lose its warmth, just give it another thirty seconds in the microwave and you’re good to go!
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Step 3
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt could be your best buddy here!
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
If microwaves aren’t your thing, here’s a nifty trick: heat up your iOpener in some boiling water instead!
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice swim.
– Turn up the heat and let that water boil like it’s having a party. Once it’s bubbling, go ahead and turn off the heat.
– Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it’s taking a nice, warm bath in there!
– Using tongs, gently fish out the iOpener from its steamy spa session.
– Give the iOpener a good pat down with a towel until it’s nice and dry.
– Boom! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the boiling water routine for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with extra care!
– If your display glass has decided to crack, no worries! Let’s keep it from shattering further and protect yourself while you tackle this repair by applying some tape over it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips across the iPad’s display until you’ve covered the entire surface. You’ve got this!
– Follow the remaining steps in the guide as closely as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass starts breaking, it might keep cracking a bit as you go. You may need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop the pieces out.
Step 6
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: while you’re getting your hands dirty with this repair, make sure to rock those safety glasses. They’ll keep your peepers safe from any sneaky glass shards that might try to escape. Safety first, right?
– Position the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it makes solid contact with the surface. Give it a little love by smoothing it out.
– Let that cozy bag rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Just stay calm and take your time. Gently wiggle the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed, and you’ll be on your way to a smooth repair.
– Hey there! Spot that tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s make the most of this little flaw!
– Now, align your tool with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip, just enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right beside your trusty plastic opening tool.
Step 10
– Gently take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches deep. You’re doing great!
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero. Take your time and work with care!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a smidge. While it’s totally safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads up—it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, though!
– While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go.
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Step 13
As you release the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy being a repair superstar.
– If the opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad, and keep on working that adhesive loose.
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Step 14
– Before you pop out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that sticky adhesive from making a comeback!
– Give the iOpener a little reheat love, then move it up to the top edge of the iPad. We’re on a roll here!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Since the Wi-Fi antenna has its own special orientation, it’s super important to handle it with care to avoid any accidental mishaps that could lead to permanent damage. Keep it cool and take your time!
– Alright, let’s take it easy for the next few steps. We’re diving into some delicate territory here.
– You’ll need to carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to keep those fragile connections to the bottom of the iPad intact. So, follow along closely!
Step 16
Keep that pick in check! Don’t slide it beyond the bottom right corner, or you might give the Wi-Fi antenna a rough time. Let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to free up the adhesive. You’re doing great!
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out nearby. Be extra careful around the corner; it’s a bit of a delicate situation, and we wouldn’t want to accidentally cut that antenna loose!
Just give that pick a gentle wiggle and pull it out a tad—leave about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly under the front glass. You’re doing great!
– Gently slide the edge of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, letting it work its magic to free the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or just beside the home button—insert that opening pick all the way in, like it’s a VIP ticket to the repair party.
– Now, slide that pick to the right and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass releases its grip. You’re doing great!
Step 19
Remember, don’t heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a break for at least two minutes before giving it another go. Keep it cool and steady!
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chill along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener a quick warm-up to bring it back to life where you’re working.
– Keep gently working that adhesive loose along the bottom of your iPad! Slide that opening pick out just enough to get around the home button, and then pop it back in, but only about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you’re past the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Keep peeling back that adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Make sure to leave the opening pick snugly wedged under the front glass near the home button.
Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chill, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep the momentum going. And if your iOpener has cooled off too much, no worries—just give it another heat-up!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive here is like super glue on a mission, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious—no one wants an accidental slip that could harm you or your iPad!
– If your opening pick seems to be stuck in the sticky stuff, just give it a little roll as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to take the iOpener off your iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still hanging on for dear life, just give the iOpener another little heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you work your magic.
– Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You’ve got this!
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Step 24
Hey there! Just a heads up: the digitizer cable is hanging out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, make sure to stop when you’re about 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. Happy repairing!
– Gently slide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you go! It’s a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer running along the whole left side, so keep the pick to a max depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive from the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
It looks like some of that sticky stuff around the edges of your iPad might have decided to reattach itself. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still hanging on. Give that adhesive a little ‘snip-snip’ to help it let go.
– Take one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s popped up, grab it with your fingers and give yourself a little high five for being awesome!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s still keeping that front panel snug as a bug.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– When putting it all back together, don’t forget to whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to banish any dust bunnies or pesky fingerprints from the LCD before you snug the glass back in place.
Step 28
The screw in the bottom left corner is playing hide and seek behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently slide the home button ribbon cable to the side to reveal and remove that sneaky bottom left screw.
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it chill and take your time!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’re on the right track!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and lay it down softly on the front glass panel. Nice and easy does it!
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up that sneaky piece of tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You got this!
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Step 31
– Lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– With a gentle touch or a trusty pair of tweezers, ease the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after you reconnect the ZIF connector, just hold down the power button and home button for about ten seconds until you see that glorious Apple logo pop up. You’ve got this!
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Step 32
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 33
If there’s any electrical tape hanging out around the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel that off like a pro!
Step 35
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently work the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free that sticky adhesive.
– Once it’s loose, confidently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board.
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Step 40
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully detach the adhesive that’s holding the cable snugly against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– With a gentle touch, wiggle out the digitizer ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel off your iPad like it’s a delicate treasure.
Step 42
– Carefully peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding the headphone jack assembly in place. You’ve got this!
Step 43
– Unscrew the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw holding the camera ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 44
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its cozy spot in the headphone jack assembly.
– Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to free the camera ribbon cable from its adhesive grip.
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Step 45
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently peel back the sticky stuff holding the camera ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly. Easy does it!
– Next up, let’s tackle that adhesive foam tape keeping the camera ribbon cable snug against the aluminum frame. Just release it with a similar approach and you’re golden!
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Step 46
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax the camera ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the plastic antenna housing. You’ve got this!
– Now, take your time peeling the adhesive off the back of the camera. Just a friendly reminder: watch out for that metal EMI tape—it’s a bit clingy!
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Step 47
– Gently ease the camera out of the iPad, guiding the camera cable through its designated spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully detach the camera from the iPad.
