DIY iPad 4G Rear Facing Camera Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Hey there! Before you dive in, remember to power down your device and unplug it from any power source. Safety first! If you run into any hiccups along the way, don’t sweat it! You can always schedule a repair for some extra hands.
Wondering whether to see or not? With the 5 MP camera on the third generation, missing out on the view is definitely not the way to go! If your rear-facing camera is acting up, follow this guide to swap it out and get back to snapping those memorable moments. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little scrub-a-dub before diving in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom might just decide to hitch a ride on the iOpener, and we definitely want to avoid that mess!
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s the star of the show!
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Step 2
Take it easy with the iOpener during your repair journey. Too much heat can make it pop, and nobody wants that! Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth experience.
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is swollen, give it a break and don’t touch it.
If the middle of the iOpener feels too hot to handle, just hang tight and let it cool off a bit before you reheat it. A well-heated iOpener will keep things toasty for up to 10 minutes.
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds and get it nice and toasty!
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener. When it starts to cool down, just give it another quick thirty seconds in the microwave to keep things warm and cozy.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! A cozy oven mitt might just be your best buddy here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of the warm center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it warmed up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.
– Heat that water up until it’s bubbling away, then turn off the heat.
– Submerge the iOpener in the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully covered by the water!
– Using tongs, carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
– Give it a good dry with a towel to make sure it’s all set.
– Your iOpener is now good to go! If it needs a little extra warmth, just repeat the steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and give that SIM tray a gentle nudge to pop it out.
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out from its cozy little home in the iPad and say goodbye as you take it out.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, give it a little nudge to pop it out of its tray and snugly place the new one in.
Step 7
Pop on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen with the care it deserves!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep the shards in check and avoid any accidental pokes during your repair by applying some tape to it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until it’s completely covered. We want to make sure it’s secure!
– Now, follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up—once the glass starts to break, it might keep cracking as you go. You might need to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out the pieces.
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: when dealing with broken glass during this process, it’s a great idea to rock some safety glasses to shield your peepers from any unexpected flying shards. Stay safe and stylish!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug for optimal contact with the iPad’s surface.
– Give the bag a little time to work its magic—let it chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that snug tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just take your time and be gentle! Wiggle the plastic tool back and forth as needed, and you’ll be on your way.
– Hey there! You’ll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring on the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s make the most of this little opening!
– Now, grab your tool and align it with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to gently widen that crack a bit.
Step 11
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly in the space between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick right into that gap, close to where your tool is wedged. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad and gently slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, pushing it in about half an inch. You’re doing great!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so be prepared to use a bit of elbow grease. Take it slow and steady!
If you can catch a glimpse of the opening pick peeking under the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out a bit. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t hurt anything, but it might leave some adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little heads up!
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling back the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, and watch the adhesive let go as you move.
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Step 15
As you carefully peel away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. Just keep in mind how long the iPad has been cooling while you’ve been busy at work—timing is everything!
– If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive loosening up and make your job easier.
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, make sure to slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again!
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then move it up to the top edge of the iPad. Let’s keep things warm and cozy while we work!
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Step 17
Hey there! The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly mounted to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, take your time and handle it with care—going too fast could lead to some unfortunate, irreversible damage to that precious Wi-Fi antenna.
– Alright, folks! Let’s tread carefully for the next few steps.
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while being super mindful of those delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick too far into the bottom right corner. You could accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive. You’re almost there!
Step 19
Take it easy and glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out really close to the corner, and if you’re not careful while releasing the adhesive, it might just decide to part ways with the device!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank that pick out completely from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays cozy under there. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide the tip of your trusty opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, setting free the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 20
– Now that you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3″ or 75 mm from the right edge, just a hop away from the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Gently nudge the pick to the right to set free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly against the front glass.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener’s dance moves short and sweet—no more than a minute at a time! And give it a breather for at least two minutes before bringing it back to life.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
– Keep on peeling that adhesive away from the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull out the opening pick just enough to navigate around the home button, and then slide it back in to about a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 22
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
– Once you’re done, slide the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 24
If your adhesive is feeling a bit chilly, pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep the good work going! And if the iOpener itself has cooled down too much, just give it a little heat to warm it back up.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– Be aware that the adhesive in this area is quite stubborn, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm either you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it as illustrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a smoother experience. But if it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener a little extra heat and place it on the left edge while you dive into your repair.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re about 2.25″ (60 mm) away from the bottom, it’s time to hit the brakes on that pick and stop sliding it!
– Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin, thanks to the digitizer stretching all the way down the left side. Just be careful not to go too deep—keep it to a maximum of 1/2 inch (10 mm) so you don’t accidentally damage that digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be cautious! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and be gentle to avoid cutting this cable.
– With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently peel away the adhesive in the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 28
Sometimes, the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might decide to stick around a little too long. If you find yourself in this situation, gently slide a pick under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still hanging on and carefully ‘cut’ through that adhesive. Remember, patience is key! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– With one of those handy opening picks, gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little friendly tug with your fingers.
Step 29
Watch out for any sneaky adhesive still hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky bits that might be keeping the front panel snug. You’re doing great!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you pop the glass back on. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 30
– Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’re almost there!
Step 31
– Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of your iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on top of the front panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s like a little magic door!
– With a steady hand (or trusty tweezers), carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen decides to take a nap and doesn’t turn on after you’ve reconnected the ZIF connector, just hold down the power button and home button for about ten seconds. Wait for that lovely Apple logo to appear—it’s your phone’s way of saying, ‘Hey, I’m awake!’
Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its surface. You’ve got this!
Step 35
– With a gentle touch, use the spudger’s tip to lift that stubborn piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Give it a little wiggle if it’s feeling stubborn!
Step 37
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the adhesive that’s holding down the digitizer ribbon cable. Let’s loosen it up a bit!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. You got this!
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Step 38
– Gently lift the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab a spudger to carefully detach the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– With a gentle tug, coax the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame. You got this!
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad, like peeling a banana. Just take your time!
Step 40
– Gently peel away that piece of electrical tape that’s keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector cozy. It’s time for it to say goodbye!
– Now, grab your trusty spudger and give a little flip to the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 41
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger underneath the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky grip of the adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
– Now, pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 42
– Carefully peel away that tape hiding the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It’s like unwrapping a surprise!
– Gently flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It’s your golden ticket to the next step!
– With the tip of your trusty spudger, smoothly pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy spot on the logic board. You’re doing great!
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Step 43
– Get ready to tackle this! Start by unscrewing the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board snugly in place on the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 44
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable aside, remember to go easy on the headphone jack itself. A little too much enthusiasm could lead to it getting disconnected. Let’s keep everything intact!
– Keep that headphone jack assembly cable out of your way and gently take out the SIM board from the iPad. You’re doing great!
Step 45
– Gently peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 46
– Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable in place on the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Step 47
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry that front-facing camera right off its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly. It’s easier than it sounds!
– Now, while keeping the spudger in place, give it a little slide to the right. This will help release the adhesive that’s been keeping that camera cable snug as a bug.
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Step 48
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on that microphone cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– Slide the tip of the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and carefully pop it out from its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
– Now, give that spudger a little slide to the left to break the adhesive holding the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly. You’re on a roll!
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Step 49
– Gently slide the flat end of the spudger under the antenna connector cable and give it a little nudge to pop it out of its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly board.
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Step 50
– Gently lift the retaining flap that’s holding down the volume/power button ribbon cable connector to the headphone jack assembly board. It’s like giving it a little nudge!
– Carefully unplug the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Think of it as giving it a smooth exit!
Step 52
– While holding onto the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, gently slide the assembly down along the iPad’s edge, moving toward the bottom of the device. Remember, take it easy and be patient with it!
Step 53
– With both hands, gently grab the headphone jack assembly and pull it away from the iPad. Just be careful of any cables that might try to tag along for the ride!
Step 54
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the rear-facing camera out of its cozy spot on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. It’s like helping a friend move—just a little push and you’re all set!
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Step 55
– The rear-facing camera is still in place.
